Park by Sidewalk Citizen – Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen, and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order a couple of plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how beeswax, dry-aging, and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for a high-end restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up. When you experience such high-quality food and service together, it stays with you.

Cheap Eats · Comfort food · Fast Food

Skip the Dishes Surprise: Cluck N Cleaver Is Worth It

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

I still had a Skip the Dishes gift certificate from work, quietly begging to be used. A quick scroll through my options led me to Cluck N Cleaver in Calgary’s Beltline. I was surprised to see prices that rivalled fast food. Even better, the Skip markup was so minimal it barely mattered.

I’ve eaten here twice before, and each time the quality of the chicken has stood out. This is the kind of meat that actually fills you up, the opposite of the fleeting satisfaction you get from McDonald’s. I also noticed a few new additions, including under $10 light meals and Tuesday tender specials. For clarity, I’m listing pickup prices below. And before I forget, let’s listen to What’s On Your Mind by the Greyhounds.

The Boneless Bites ($9.25) come in at a generous 1/3 pound of dark meat. The coating is craggy, with a slightly crumbly finish that clings to the chicken in uneven, crunchy clusters. Inside, the meat is succulent and silky. If you’re a dark meat person, this is your lane. The honey mustard was solid, though it doesn’t dethrone the version at the Eau Claire Exchange, which is my gold standard.

The Chicken Tenders ($9.25) are equally substantial, four large pieces. The breading is more uniform here, giving you that classic crisp bite. Chew Steel and I weren’t sold on the ranch dip, a purely personal preference, but I’d happily come back and try the hot or house special sauces. I don’t like white meat, and this was so good, it’s an easy reorder.

The Chipotle Corn and Bean Salad ($5.95) delivers sweet bursts from deep yellow corn, hearty black beans, and a light acidity that keeps things from feeling heavy. Chew Steel picked up on the cilantro. I notoriously hate cilantro, and didn’t notice it. I would get this again. The fries are much better than McDonald’s too, crisp yet soft, with no overcooked dry bits.

We enjoyed the Rotisserie Chicken Salad ($7.50) the next day for lunch. It’s a creamy mix of mayo, celery, and green onion, rich and sturdy enough to hold up against a bed of crisp lettuce and sour dough bread. I wish I could make chicken salad this good.

Whenever I’m feeling sick, I’ve been leaning heavily on McNuggets and McFlurries. That ends today. When the price nearly the same, but the food more substantial, Cluck N Cleaver is an easy upgrade. If you’re defaulting to McDonald’s or Popeyes, it might be time to reconsider. For essentially the same price, Cluck N Cleaver gives you something far more delicious. Hitting the Sauce gives Cluck N Cleaver two phat thumbs up.

Bars/Lounges · Mediteranean · Restaurants

Sound Room and Turkish Kebab House

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

On Friday, I was feeling spry and suggested to Chew Steel that we start at the Sound Room, then head to Turkish Kebab House in Calgary’s Manchester area. Let’s listen to Colours by Black Pumas for this post.

The Sound Room is my favourite place to decompress. I love the ritual of descending into the dimly lit basement, claiming an empty table, and heading to the bar for a cold beer. A vinyl record spins behind the bar, filling the room with music set just right, loud enough to enjoy every note, yet soft enough to engage in conversation.

Chew Steel ordered a glass of Okami Kasu ($8.50, 16 oz), a Japanese rice lager, while I chose the Honeybush Hard Ice Tea ($8.50, 16 oz). Ol’ Beautiful makes seasonal ice teas, but Honeybush is the only one for me. It’s dry, with subtle stone-fruit notes, refreshing and lightly effervescent with tiny bubbles. It’s so good I bought a six-pack ($16) to enjoy at home, for those times I can’t make it to the Sound Room.

We left soon after to make our reservation at Turkish Kebab. The restaurant is larger than it appears from the outside, filled with groups of all ages enjoying big meals. Without asking if we had a reservation, a manager quickly found us a table.

The service is calm and proficient. Soon after, our order was taken, and glasses of water and bread, hummus, and acili ezme, a spicy vegetable dip, were dropped off. We gobbled down the warm, chewy bread with hummus and tangy vegetable dip. I could really taste the bright red pepper characteristics in the acili ezeme. We didn’t have to wait long before our food arrived.

We shared two platters, the Adana Kebab ($24.95) and the Adana Mix ($24.95). The Adana kebabs contained minced lamb and beef. The latter had an adana kebab and one beef shish. The beef shish stood out for its deep charcoal-grilled aroma, crisp edges, and juicy interior. Each bite reminded me of eating yakitori late at night in Japan, intoxicatingly smoky.

The Adana kebab had a softer, tender texture, yet was rich in taste. I enjoyed the subtle grassy notes of the lamb. All the skewers were served piping hot and nicely seasoned by the BBQ’s char.

Both platters come with buttery rice, green salad and fries. The green salad was so large I couldn’t finish it all. The long, silky grains of rice were a simple foil to all the fire-kissed meats. The fries were battered, similar to those you find at the Costco food court.

I pulled a Peggy Hill social blunder. As we stood up to leave, I noticed the table next to us had ordered the karışık ızgara platter, a glorious mountain of grilled meats. Without thinking, I enthusiastically commented on the bounty. The entire table stared back at me with cautious suspicion. Especially the toddler.

Despite my faux pas, I’d happily return to Turkish Kebab House. Next time I’m ordering the massive platter of meats for two. And I’ll remember to admire with my inside voice.

Restaurants

Francine’s French Bar – Divine Offering’s Bday dinner

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

Divine Offering turned 31! To celebrate this occasion, we went to Francine’s in Calgary’s Chinatown district. Though it was a Tuesday night at 6:00 p.m., the restaurant was packed with customers celebrating, and staff hustling to keep up with the steady stream of drink orders. Let’s listen to Fight Song by Rachel Platten for this post.

When I arrived, a customer at a nearby table looked strangely familiar. I’m notorious for thinking I recognize people I actually don’t know and giving them awkward, puzzled stares. Before I could embarrass myself further, I broke eye contact and headed to my table.

The tables at Francine’s are New York tight. If you’re over a size six, take the outside chair; otherwise, you may find your seat uncomfortably close to the next table. The close quarters also make for good eavesdropping, if you’re into that sort of thing. A particularly loud group of Flames-jersey-wearing diners made it nearly impossible for me to hear Divine Offering. I had to shout several times just to get her to repeat herself.

Perhaps I am so hyper-observant because I’ve been off the sauce for more than half the month due to medical treatments, an adjustment I’m still getting used to. While the birthday girl gleefully nursed a Francine 75 (1.5 oz, $16), murmuring demurely about how strong it was, I, mournfully, made do with a house pineapple pulp soda ($6). I worked my way through the slightly tart, bubbly drink while enviously watching the tables around me happily lingering over their glasses of wine.

We shared the Tuna Tartare ($22.95), silky pink cubes of tuna tossed with bits of apple, crunchy potato chip sticks for texture, and calamansi, an Asian citrus, that reminded me of fresh grapefruit. I preferred the calamansi to lemon or yuzu as its flavour was brighter, slightly sweet, and fragrant. I would order this again.

For our main, we shared the Steak À La Francine for two ($78.95). The generous 14-oz confit Delmonico-style steak was served with potato purée and a little gem salad. I encouraged Divine Offering to order a glass of wine. She ordered Francine’s house red (6 oz, $13). I enjoyed the salad, crisp lettuce leaves lightly glossed with olive oil and brightened with fresh mint. The freshness helped balance the richness of the steak and potatoes. When I order the steak frites ($39.99) in the future, I’ll be adding a salad. It nicely cuts through the richness of all that steak and fries.

The purée was a welcome component for soaking up the saucy steak, though it wasn’t quite as mind-blowing as the ultra-crispy fries. I ordered French fries ($9.95) near the end of the meal because I was craving them. By that point, however, I was completely stuffed, so I brought the leftovers home to Chew Steel.

Our server told us the steak had been braised for three days. That evening, instead of the usual peppercorn sauce, it was prepared with an Asian spin. The meat was ridiculously tender, and the subtle sauce, with its faint hint of five-spice, reminded me of duck. Divine Offering loved the steak’s charred, crispy edges. For a few moments, we ate in silence, listening to the satisfying crackle of the fries.

Now that I’ve tried both versions, the steak frites with peppercorn sauce and the Steak À La Francine with the Asian twist, here’s my advice. If it’s your first visit to Francine’s, go for the steak frites with peppercorn sauce. If you love duck or want something slightly lighter than the peppercorn version or something to think about, order the latter if it’s being featured. Both are excellent, and you really can’t go wrong.

For dessert, I suggested Divine Offering order the French Toast ($12.95). I raved about the soft, eggy toast, covered in honey caramel and topped with cold honey ice cream, and how the salty notes from the sauce and 14-month Comté cheese elevate this dessert to legendary status. Our server thoughtfully added a candle for the birthday girl. Divine Offering sat in quiet concentration, clearly delighted with each mouthful.

The next day, after finishing my workout at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, Robert Jewel, the food and beverage manager at the Exchange, came up to me and asked how I liked Francine’s. Small world! It turns out he was the mystery diner. It seems you never quite know who might be sitting at the next table at Francine’s.

Robert previously hosted TV’s A Is for Apple, worked with Chef Michael Allemeier, and oversaw several Concorde restaurants. I recognized Chef Allemeier’s name from my days in Vancouver, when he was the chef at Bishop’s, an upscale restaurant that was well out of my budget at the time. Robert also explained why I’m so obsessed with the Exchange’s chicken fingers and fries ($15 on the kids’ menu). He states the honey mustard poppyseed sauce is made from scratch, with all local ingredients. I also love the fries, which are clearly homemade and very potatoey.

Happy Hour · Patio · Pizza

Posto – Sunday all-day happy hour in Calgary

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

Winegurlsushi, Juliejuliehu, and I were finally meeting in real life. After years of exchanging messages on Instagram, we locked in a date. We’d come close before. A few months ago, we missed each other in an exchange of homemade goods when Winegurlsushi dropped off sourdough focaccia, and I left behind a jar of my chilli oil. We picked a Sunday and committed. I invited Lovegastrogirl and Divine Offering along. Let’s listen to AudioSlave for this post.

I threw out Posto Pizzeria & Bar as our meeting spot because it checked every box. It’s one of only two pizza places where Lovegastrogirl will eat the crust, which already tells you everything you need to know. Sundays come with an all-day happy hour deal: $15 pizzas (with a drink), 25% off wine bottles, cocktails knocked down by $4, and house wine for $6. I hadn’t been back since 2014, when Posto was the place for gourmet pizza. It felt like time for a revisit.

The moment I walked in, a waft of Italian cooking wrapped around me. The restaurant was buzzing, with the room full. Almost every table was taken. Reservations are a good idea here. Just note there’s a $15 charge per missing guest, which, honestly, is fair given how quickly they could fill that seat. Winegurlsushi couldn’t make it in the end, but luckily, I wasn’t charged for her cancellation.

Divine Offering and I both went for the Peach Bellini ($16, or $12 during happy hour). Compared to Cactus Club’s version, this one leaned less sweet, more like a lightly boozy peach slush. Lovegastrogirl went with the Espresso Martini. I had a sip, and we both agreed it was quite sweet.

I immediately thought of Quebecoise while scanning the “flex zone” wine list. The selections, Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino ($127), Bertani Amarone ($125), and Borgogno No Name Nebbiolo ($110), all look to be priced surprisingly close to retail. I made a mental note to tell her. I’d be curious to hear her take.

I took full advantage of the happy hour pricing and ordered two pizzas, partly for the table, partly so I wouldn’t have to cook the next day. I picked the Ok…Ok… ($26, HH $15) and the Smoked Salmon Club ($28, HH $15). Juliejuliehu went for the Meet Your Maker ($28, HH $15) plus a Caesar ($17). Lovegastrogirl ordered the Velvet Underground ($25, HH $15), and Divine Offering echoed my choice with the Ok…Ok….

The Ok…Ok… was scrumptious. The thin, delicate layers reminded me of Hasselback potatoes. The crust was fluffy, generously dolloped with creme fraîche, leeks, potatoes and smoked pancetta. Divine Offering is a fan. She said she can’t remember ever having potato slices on a pizza, but they were very thin and didn’t feel weird. The pancetta was thinly sliced, too, a proportional ratio.

The crust at Posto is a standout. Thin and crunchy, but still airy, with blistered bubbles that add texture and a subtle smokiness. It’s the kind of crust you don’t leave behind, which explains why Lovegastrogirl actually eats hers here.

The smoked salmon pizza leaned even more indulgent, layered with cultured cream cheese and thick slices of chilled smoked salmon. I loved the contrast of textures, the delicate crunch of pickled onions, the bright pop of capers, and the fresh arugula lifting each bite. The coolness of the salmon against the warm crust, finished with a hint of coarse salt, made it feel especially luxurious.

Divine Offering thought it was good, but not something she’d order again. I, on the other hand, really enjoyed it, though I’d agree it’s best shared. It’s a rich dish for one.

Lovegastrogirl’s Velvet Underground was loaded with meaty shiitake mushrooms and looked so good I’ve already earmarked it for my next visit. Juliejuliehu was quiet about her Meet Your Maker, but the pizza looked appetizing, heavily speckled with sausage, salami, calabrese, smoked pancetta, and bubbling white cheese.

One of the best things about this crew is the unspoken understanding that this is a space for honest conversation, spirited venting, and plenty of strong opinions on where we love to eat. We’re already planning our next meet-up. The agenda: a Chinatown whirlwind, starting with drinks at Prosperity Bar, followed by dinner at Paper Lantern, and ending on a sweet note at Francine’s.

It’s been over a decade since Posto first opened, and I’m happy to say it’s even better than I remember, and I already thought it was fantastic. Hitting the Sauce gives Posto two phat thumbs up.

Restaurants · French · Bars/Lounges · Dessert · Special Occasion · Wine tasting

Varbar Wine Bar – Fondue and champagne in Calgary

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

Lululemon treated me to a belated birthday dinner at Varbar with fondue and champagne. The evening struck a chord between indulgence and charm, securing its place on my list of must-try spots in Calgary when you’re in the mood to celebrate. For this post, let’s listen to Mykonos by Fleet Foxes.

The restaurant is tiny, even smaller than Bar Gigi. Four tables for two, a bar with four stools, it feels like someone carved out an attic or closet and turned it into a tiny, sparkly playground for unapologetic lushes.

I have limited experience with champagne, mostly through Juice Imports tastings and time spent with good neighbours, Quebecoise, Sirski, and Kournikova. What I do know is this: I don’t care for the yeasty styles, which thankfully, weren’t on the menu at Varbar.

Lululemon ordered us a champagne flight ($45), fondue for two ($65), kimchi brussels sprouts ($7), and a glass of Pommery Brut Ŕose ($28). Our flight came first, and I followed her lead, tasting each glass and deciding which one we wanted to save for last.

The first one we tried, Bolinger Champagne Special Cuvee ($34 glass), reminded Lululemon of autumn and pear cider. I noticed the tang at the end and then no aftertaste. The bubbles were fine and gentle on the tongue.

The second champagne was Charles Mignon Réserve Rosé ($25 per glass). I enjoyed the clean, bright bubbles and the way they sparkled on the palate. Lululemon noted hints of rose and lychee. I thought it was absolutely delicious.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve ($26 per glass) was equally impressive. Compared to the first two, it leaned softer and more toasty, with a gentle roundness that made it feel a little more unique.

Lululemon wanted us to try one more, so we landed on the Pommery Brut Rosé ($28). It ended up being her favourite, fresh, dry, with bright strawberry and raspberry notes, and the liveliest bubbles of the night.

Our fondue came with bread cubes, pickles, pickled white onions, baby potatoes, and green apples. Lululemon’s favourite were the in-house-made kimchi brussels sprouts, which were crunchy and tangy, and the apples.

I’ve had fondue three times before, once at a restaurant and twice at a friend’s house. Varbar’s gruyère and emmental fondue is the best I’ve had. The cheese itself was silky, nutty and savoury with a touch of sweetness.

I think one reason is that the cheese is served bubbling hot, which makes a big difference in its texture. It was stretchy and smooth, evenly coating each ingredient. I especially loved the acidity of the pickles cutting through the richness of the molten cheese, alongside the contrast between the cold, plain potatoes and the juicy green apples.

At the bottom of the pot, the cheese formed this golden, crispy crust that’s completely different from the silky fondue. It’s deeper, saltier, with a crunch that reminds me of the edges of a fancy grilled cheese sandwich.

Everything was so decadent, I wanted to weep with joy. Unfortunately, I was too dehydrated from treatment to shed a tear, so I did the only reasonable thing and kept eating.

Lululemon’s birthday is coming up, and I’ll need to come up with something spectacular. She’s a vegetarian, which makes this a tough act to follow. Best case, I take her back to VarBar and try to recreate the magic. Thank you, Lululemon, for such a thoughtful and memorable night.

Bakery · Cheap Eats · Comfort food · Mediteranean

Doughlicious and Doughboy in Calgary

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

I’ve heard great things about Doughlicious, a family-owned Mediterranean one-stop market in Calgary’s Greenview Industrial / McCall area, but didn’t venture in until this weekend. I’m late to the party, and that’s entirely on me. Let’s listen to Peaches and Cream by 112 for this one.

I recognized the owner, Mohamed, from Doughlicious Instagram account. I told him I’ve been enjoying his reels. He smiled, a little skeptically, and said some were better than others. He asked if I needed more time with the menu, but I already knew what I wanted.

I wanted to bring something back for my friend, Lululemon, who since the summer has been showing up with her famous weekly soups, plus a steady stream of thoughtful treats and gifts. Since she’s vegetarian, I ordered the muhammara and cheese pie ($6.99), vegetarian samosas (6 for $7.50), hummus (16 oz, $9.99), their famous homemade white pita and doughnuts ($11.99). She later texted me the samosas leaned more toward filling than shell, exactly how she likes them, and that they were the best she’s had in Calgary. For future parties, I’m officially switching from Nooren to Doughlicious, not just for the food but for the hospitality and the opportunity to grab other goodies in one stop.

Mohamed mentioned the homemade pita is his top seller. I can see why. It’s soft, pliable, and thin with just a soft little chew to it. It’s the kind of pita that actually feels alive, unlike the usual grocery store versions.

The hummus follows the same philosophy. It’s not overly processed or perfectly smooth, but textured in a way that lets each ingredient come through. Nutty, slightly tangy, finished with olive oil that ties it all together.

At the counter, there’s a wide range of options. Meat pies, vegetarian pies, samosas, wraps, and kebobs. The smoked chicken and brisket are available on the weekend-only. I ordered both for Chew Steel for our Valentine’s dinner, a whole roasted and smoked chicken ($28) and a pound of applewood smoked brisket ($30).

Mohamed asked for a few minutes to prepare everything and invited me to help myself to tea. I wandered around the shop, admiring shelves lined with tahini, spice blends, juices, and desserts. A steady stream of customers came through, many leaving with stacks of pita and trays of food.

I walked over to Doughboy, which shares the space with Doughlicious. There are two young staffers who were hustling to keep up with orders. The doughnut holes are fried fresh right in front of you, then assembled to order. I went with two combos, Bueno Supreme (dozen, $11.99) and Dubai Chocolate (dozen, $11.99). The doughnuts are superb. The shell shatters on first bite, giving way to a warm, airy interior that tastes clean rather than greasy. It’s that combination of light dough and well-handled oil that sets them apart.

The toppings are just as thoughtful. Chew Steel gravitated toward the sweeter option, milk chocolate and pistachio butter, drizzled over crisp phyllo and crushed pistachios. I preferred the more restrained combination of Bueno wafers, Nutella, and fresh strawberries. I expected the toppings to tip things into overly sweet or soggy territory, but they didn’t. At $9.99 to $11.99 per order, these are standouts you expect to see featured in Avenue Magazine.

We saved the meat for dinner at home. The brisket arrived in clean, even slices, showing off its marbling. It held together beautifully. No masking with a heavy sauce. Just well-executed, tender pieces of beef. The garlic sauce, served cold and silky, added a smooth, rounded richness without overpowering.

The chicken was just as impressive. Full, generous pieces of meat, intact and beautifully cooked. No dryness, no gross blue or red stringy bits. It’s the kind of chicken where you notice the quality right away. This doesn’t taste like a grocery store chicken, nor should it, as it’s almost double the cost, and worth every extra nickel.

Doughlicious and Doughboy are busy, and for good reason. There’s a disconnect in the best way for the customer. The kind of quality you expect to pay more for, at prices that are understated. They could charge 18% more, and I’d still come back, just not as frequently. At these prices, you don’t need to save it as a treat.

What a gem! Doughlicious and Doughboy reminded me how good a simple meal can be. Go. Just a heads up, the parking lot can get a little lively, so bring a bit of patience on the way in and out. It’s a popular spot, and everyone’s just very enthusiastic about snagging a space.

Restaurants · Seafood

The Exchange in Eau Claire in Calgary

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

On Saturday, Québécoise, Sirski, Deal and No Deal met us for dinner at the Exchange in Eau Claire. This dinner was particularly epic because we got to meet one of the chefs at the Exchange, Carla. Let’s listen to “Work It”.

Chef Carla stopped by our table to let us know one of the dishes we ordered wasn’t available. I was excited to meet her, as some of our favourite dishes have been her creations. She was humble and warm, speaking passionately about her food philosophy and love of food. I learned she moved from Peru to Calgary a few years ago and previously worked at Shokunin and Eight, which is owned by Chef Darren MacLean. It’s always impressive to meet a chef who has worked at MacLean’s restaurants, as I imagine the expectations there are not exactly laxydaisy. I’ve never eaten at Eight, but to get a sense of the experience, read food writer Elizabeth Chorney-Booth’s article.

If Québécoise hadn’t been with us, I would have happily asked our server, Liam, to choose the wine as he has great taste. I tend to order based on what I recognize, which isn’t always the smartest strategy when my wine knowledge is limited. Québécoise, on the other hand, approaches a list strategically, by region, vintage, style, and price. She buys enough wine to know retail pricing versus restaurant markup, which is a skill in itself. She spotted the Chablis Servin Les Pargues ($75) and immediately said it was a steal by restaurant standards.

The Chablis isn’t the buttery, oaky style often associated with California chardonnay. It’s clean, crisp, and bright, with a refreshing citrus note. Chew Steel was a big fan. Speaking of value, I forgot to tell Québécoise that our friends took us out to dinner at the Argyle Restaurant. The Glencoe Club recently started offering 750 mL wine bottles at retail price plus $20. That’s practically philanthropic, perhaps to take the bite out of a membership waitlist that feels more than generational.

Whenever there’s a feature with Peruvian influences at the Exchange, we get it because the flavours are incredible. I still remember the lomo saltado with buttered rice ($50), the Peruvian pork sandwich ($24), and, most recently, the halibut with squid-ink risotto ($27). I asked our server, Liam, if the halibut was better than my usual order of Chicken Tenders ($15). Fighting a laugh, he confidently announced the risotto’s deep, umami flavour was off the charts.

The risotto was silky and buttery, coated in a squid-ink sauce that tasted earthy and savoury. The halibut was meaty and juicy. I loved flaking the firm fish into the risotto and dragging each bite through the sauce. The halibut’s clean, wholesome flavour balanced the dish’s rich creaminess. Chew Steel especially liked the bright pop from the cilantro drizzle dotting the plate.

Side note. Liam is friends with Francine’s chef-owner Garrett Martin, and sous chef Jordan Anderson. We bonded over similar dining experiences eating the French toast, steak frites, and trout crêpes at Francine’s. He said the amount of thought that went into both the food and the drinks there is kind of wild.

With Deal and No Deal dining with us, both with a shared sweet tooth, dessert was non-negotiable. I’ve sampled three desserts at Exchange so far, and the Carrot Cake ($11) stands out. Gently spiced and moist, it’s elevated by a tangy yogurt-cream cheese spread, generously garnished pistachios and candied Beck Farm carrots for texture and sweetness. I’d order it again, which says a lot, as I’m not usually a dessert person.

Chef talent, off-the-charts savoury depth, smart wine picks, and carrot cake worth breaking the scale over? Yes, the Exchange worked it again. Thank you, Chef Carla, for a great meal.

17th Ave · Pizza

Una’s Calgary Review – Lunch special

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

I took Bex Oxo out for a belated lunch. Since we share a love of a good deal, we checked out Una Pizzeria‘s lunch special. For this post, let’s listen to Running Up That Hill by Kate Bush.

From Monday to Friday until 2PM, Una offers a $20 lunch special that includes a pop, tea or coffee. I went with a crispy Diet Coke, and Bex Oxo ordered an Americano.

You start with a small kale Caesar, and “small” is a lie. It’s bigger than a side, about half a regular order. I like the chew of the kale, and the dry crunchiness from the toasted garlic panko crumbs, grated cheese, and prosciutto. The boiled egg adds a richness, while the citrus in the dressing cuts through the heavy flavours of the meat and cheese. The kale salad tastes like a charcuterie board decided to become a salad.

You can pick between pasta or a pizza. For pizza, options are the Sweet & Spicy or 4-Maggi. We went Sweet & Spicy. It’s about half a regular pizza, the perfect personal size. The crust is light and crisp, though the center gets a bit wet from the sauce. Each slice holds some meaty goodness from the chorizo and prosciutto, sweet heat from habanero honey, and peppery arugula to freshen things up. I still boxed half because that salad was filling.

Mid-lunch, a pack of grade 4–5 kids rolled in and confidently ordered. They came in polite and organized. When offered by their server, they refused the kids’ menu as they found the selection limited. Instead, they shared pizzas, expertly split the bills and were making post-lunch plans. One offered up his house for entertainment. Another piped up and told everyone to relax and to enjoy a bit more time at Una. My mouth must have dropped open. What baby ballers, living their best lives. If I were their mother, I would be so proud.

Another thing I love about UNA is the service. It’s consistently excellent at every location. It honestly feels like they hire people for their ability to genuinely care. Every staff member gives off serious Care Bear Stare vibes.

If you’re feeling the financial blues after Christmas or just on a budget, treat yourselves to Una Pizzeria. Twenty bucks for a drink, a substantial salad, and a personal pizza or pasta is one of the best lunch deals in the city right now. It’s satisfying without putting you in a food coma, and you still feel like you went somewhere nice for the price, for just a little more than a combo meal at McDonald’s.

Bars/Lounges · Chinatown · French · Restaurants · Seafood · Special Occasion · Steakhouse · Wine tasting

Francine’s – Bday dinner

Featured Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

For my birthday, Chew Steel and I checked out Francine’s, a new French restaurant that opened up in Calgary’s Chinatown district. I’ve eaten at Francine’s before at a pop-up and a special event dinner, so I knew we were in for a treat. Let’s listen to Paradise by Sade for this post.

I made reservations at the last minute, so I was only able to secure bar seats at 5:15 p.m. As it was so early in the evening, we weren’t super hungry and just ordered two mains, the Steak Frites ($39.95) and the Smoky Trout and Crepes ($42.95). I wanted to try the trout dish because I read an Instagram post by the chef/owner, Garrett Martin, about his creative process for creating some of the dishes.

We started with a cocktail, a Francine’s martini ($17) for me and a Crepe Suzette Old-Fashioned ($16) for Chew Steel. The ice-cold gin-forward martini was aromatic and herby, marked with a distinct note of fennel. As we sipped, I noticed how quickly the room filled on a Tuesday evening. An older Asian couple sat beside us. It was cute to watch him, intently absorbed watching a YouTube video on his phone while his partner quietly ate, content in her own private little world.

The steak frites were among the best I’ve ever had. I don’t want to be dramatic, but the steak here is a must-eat-before-you-die type of experience. The bavette butcher’s steak was beautifully textured, sliced thin yet generously wide, with a charred, rugged exterior and a ruby-red interior that offered a juicy chew. The peppercorn glaze was rich and smooth, with a peppery bite that cut through the steak.

The fries were ridiculously delicious, golden and light, with an ultra-crunchy shell giving way to a whipped potatoey centre. Jordan, our bartender, nailed the wine pairings. For the steak, he paired it with a glass of Cabernet Franc (Domaine La Paleine, $10, 3oz).

The trout was soft and smoky, with a flavour profile reminiscent of salmon. We tore off a piece of crepe and wrapped it around a piece of trout, two types of pickled onion, cucumber, bright green spinach and chives. Each bite was decadent, drippy and messy.

The trout reminded me of Neptune’s famous johnny cakes, but the flavours were more refined. There wasn’t anything fishy or overly sweet. The combination of what I thought were unusual ingredients blew me away. The flavours were rounded and worked so well together that it made me think of head chef Koji Kobayashi’s fine-dining creations at Sukiyaki House. Jordan selected a bright white wine (Juste Le Blanc, Jurancon Sec $8.50, 3 oz) that cut through the smokiness and the decadent white sauce.

The mains are a generous portion, but I still wanted dessert. We shared the French Toast ($12.95) with honey-caramel, honey ice cream, and 15-month Comte cheese, paired with a glass of sherry (Moscatel Peromesa Jerez Valdespino, $13).

The dessert is worthy of Michelin recognition. The thick-cut bread was warm and eggy, layered with sweet, cold ice cream and topped with salty flakes of cheese. This dish, as well as the two before, had us licking our lips and scraping the plate for every last drop of caramel.

How good was the food? So damn fine, I sent Lovegastro, Quebecoise, Betty, Kournikova, Juliejuliehu and Divine Offering text messages raving about Francine’s and making future plans to revisit.

How indulgent was the food? I had a chemo follow-up appointment the very next day and had gained two pounds. I’m not sure whether that jump was due to fluid and inflammation or to the peppercorn glaze, but I choose to believe it was the sauce doing the heavy lifting.

The crowning glory is the value. For this level of cooking, the prices make Francine’s an easy choice any night of the week, not just for special occasions. Wines matched to each course are $6–10, and the steak frites is priced below lower than chains like The Keg and Cactus Club. Go, you won’t regret it!