For my mom’s early Christmas dinner, I ordered takeout from Emerald Garden. This was my second visit, and I was even more impressed than on my previous visit. When I entered, I was helped by a woman who had the aura of a manager or owner, efficient, alert, and someone clearly running a tight ship. Let’s listen to “Beige” by Yoke Lore.
I called the day before to pre order the Crab HK Style ($79.99), Tendon Beef Hotpot ($22.99), Fish and Tofu Hotpot ($22.99), Beef Chowfun ($17.99), and Ginger Beef ($17.99). I ordered in English, and the person on the phone clarified what I was requesting in Cantonese. She said a few words that I didn’t recognize, so I just said yes, in Cantonese, because I didn’t know what else to do.
When I arrived, the manager/owner asked if I wanted tong, a complimentary soup made from meat bones, vegetables, and herbs. I didn’t hesitate as I love a good Chinese broth. It’s so simple, comforting, and soul-satisfying.

I asked my mom, Boss Lady, to make rice before I arrived at her house, as hot pot and ginger beef are best with plain steamed rice. We started with the crab, and for Calgary, it was excellent. The crab tasted fresh, with fluffy, sweet meat. Boss Lady approvingly noted that the restaurant had done a good job pre-cracking the shells. She loved the HK-style seasoning, which is a dry, fragrant mix of garlic, chili peppers, scallions, fermented black beans, and salt and pepper. While she would have preferred a bit more garlic and heat, she still thought it was excellent. She suggested ordering the lobster next time, since the meat pulls out more easily. I’d definitely get this again.

The beef hot pot came with tender brisket, small pieces of opaque tendon, and firm, juicy radish. Boss Lady commented on the high quality of the beef. The tendon was so soft it barely had any chew, and the brisket was braised until almost shredded. The sauce was light and savoury with hints of ginger and star anise.

The fish hot pot was another winner. The fish came in long, thick pieces, battered and fried, fully saturated in a light, clear sauce. The tofu was the spongy kind that compresses when you bite into it, releasing a burst of juice. This is definitely a dish I’d order again.

The ginger beef had lost its crunch by the time we opened the container, but it was still enjoyable, with more meat than batter, sweet and gingery. This was Boss Lady’s first encounter with deep-fried ginger beef, which is very different from the B.C. version, which is typically stir-fried with vegetables. Chew Steel reminded her that this particular style was invented in Calgary. I tried to draw a comparison to Vancouver’s honey garlic ribs and Calgary’s ginger beef, but Chew Steel firmly shook his head in disagreement.

The beef ho fun noodles outshone Phoenix Gate’s by a mile. The rice noodles were thick, sticky, and glossy, with a fragrant wok hei you could smell immediately. Chew Steel mentioned to Boss Lady that this is one of my favourite noodle dishes, and she noted how challenging it is to pull off without a proper wok and an extremely hot stovetop.

This dinner was a success! Boss Lady was happy, and it was hands down some of the best Chinese food I’ve had in Calgary. Chew Steel was also a fan, though he couldn’t help but note that everything on the table fell somewhere on the beige-to-brown spectrum. Next time, I’ll throw in some gai lan (Chinese broccoli) or snow peas for a pop of green. To be continued now that I found a new favourite Chinese restaurant in town.


















































