Wine Stories: All-Stars Germany at Metrovino

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Metrovino turns 30 this year, and to celebrate, they poured six German All-Stars wines. The ticket cost was $78.75. I went with my trusty wine pal, Divine Offering. For this post, let’s listen to Closing Time by Semisonic.

As usual, Metrovino brought a generous spread of charcuterie and cheeses. I particularly enjoyed the duck rillettes, which were deeply rich and moist, with coarse shreds of meat. We filled up our plates before heading to the tasting counter.

Grisel & Compagnie

Usually when I arrive, I stand around awkwardly, trying not to leer wantonly at the open bottles of wine. This time, Al Drinkle, partner at Metrovino, and Sylvie called us to the tasting table to try the first wine, 2022 Blanc de Noirs Brut ($55). Owners Niko Brandner and Rachele Crosara are the couple behind Grisel & Compagnie.

Al noted that Germans love their bubbles, and this one, made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in Bensheim, Hessische-Bergstraße, was yummy. I found it full-bodied, with lots of tight bubbles and a honeyed richness.

Al told us this tasting centred on two of Germany’s great grapes, Pinot and Riesling, both built on high acidity. Another interesting theme that ran through the evening was climate change and how some growers are changing the way they farm because of it.

Wasenhaus

Christoph Wölber and Alex Götze are the people behind 2024 Spätburgunder ($62), a Pinot Noir from Staufen im Breisgau, Baden. The colour was light and almost translucent. Al told us colour tells you nothing about how a wine tastes. He noted its haunting aromatics. Divine Offering could taste oak. I found it ripe and chuggable. It’s unlike any other Pinot I’ve tried.

Weingut Leitz

The third wine I sampled was the Weingut Leitz 2025 Riesling Trocken ‘Eins-Zwei-Dry’ ($29, 15% off to $24.65). Based in Rüdesheim am Rhein in the Rheingau, Johannes and Antonius Leitz run the winery. He described Johannes as big-hearted, very kind, and the nicest guy you’ll ever meet. Al also mentioned that Leitz makes a lot of non-alcoholic wine. I found this wine lively, and I liked how it sparkled on my tongue. I bought two bottles.

A.J Adam

A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken ($36, 15% off to $30.60) was my favourite wine of the evening. Al detailed that this was a boutique farm in Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel Valley, run by Andreas Adam and Barbara Gudelj. Their wines range from dry to sweet. A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken is their entry-level, and Al explained it’s their “business card” wine. He described this wine as high acid, with heirloom apple, a little salt, a slight spritz, and intense for the price. I loved how it tasted alive and almost fizzy. Al said that fizzle sensation is itself acidity. I could literally feel my mind blown when I realized what acidity felt like: a tingle on your tongue. I bought three bottles.

Weingut Schätzel

Next up was Weingut Schätzel’s 2021 Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling GG ($75), from Nierstein in Rheinhessen. Kai Schätzel and his business partner Jule Eichblatt farm biodynamically. One example of how they’re responding to climate change is by barely tilling and by planting poplars among the vines to keep them hydrated. I enjoyed the pleasant aftertaste.

Hofgut Falkenstein

The last wine, 2025 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb ‘Onkel Peter’ ($49, 15% off to $41.65), is from Niedermennig, Saar, one of the cooler corners for German wine. Al said Johannes and Erich Weber make the most brilliant, bright, tonic, mineral Riesling in the lineup. He told us the acidity is intense. The way he said “intense” was itself intense. He must have realized how alarming he’d made it sound, because he added that it won’t hurt you. Divine Offering thought this would be a great wine to drink after a meal, as it was a touch sweet. I bought a bottle for us to enjoy on another night.

I ‘revisited’ a few wines to ensure I liked what I was buying. While we waited for our table at Noble Pie, I asked Al why he loves German wine so much, and what draws him to the science of wine. He finds German wine fascinating: its history, its Riesling, and its comeback from its past reputation. After the 1985 antifreeze scandal hurt the reputation of Germany’s sweet wines, winemakers turned toward dry ones. He also spoke fondly of German Pinot Noir, which a warmer climate now helps ripen more reliably.

His answer to my second question, about the science of wine, went over my head, which tells you something about how deep his knowledge runs. His vocabulary is just as impressive. I consider mine pretty good, and I still went home looking up words, like amorphous.

What a night! By the end, it felt like I was a character in Mr. Fezziwig’s merry party in A Christmas Carol, which is my all-time favourite book scene. It was a real treat to try so many new and wonderful wines. I’m going to drop off some macarons to thank Al, Sylvia and team for their hospitality. Thank you, and happy 30th, Metrovino!

Two series remain for Metrovino’s All-Star Series: Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Bar Milpa Calgary: Quesabirria, Seared Cabbage and $12 Cocktails

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For our monthly girls’ night, we picked Bar Milpa. We’d heard Duncan Ly and a new crew had taken over the kitchen. And days earlier, the Calgary Herald ran a piece on the restaurant shakeup, which I took as a sign from the culinary gods. Before Milpa, we’d had wine at my place. I poured Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise wines from my recent Metrovino tastings. For this post, let’s listen to Tame Impala – Dracula.

The room itself surprised me; it was a dark teal and quieter than I expected for a Friday. The last time we were here, we were stuck in the back corner by the bathroom, which felt like I was sitting in WestJet’s ultra-basic economy. This time we sat smack in the middle of the room.

Milpa focuses on Latin-inspired beverages. Betty, Kournikova and I started with Pineapple Nom-Nom, cold and bright, and refreshingly priced at only $12. I always order whatever Kournikova selects, as she knows her cocktails and doesn’t like them sweet. Québécoise picked Blue Drank with Tito’s vodka ($12).

The first dish to come out was the Tuna Tostada ($16). The tostada was crunchy, loaded with fresh tuna. It made for a great bite, salty, saucy, with a little heat underneath. I was pleased to see how much tuna they piled on. With seafood prices what they are, most Calgary restaurants aren’t this generous. This was everyone’s favourite dish of the night.

Betty’s second favourite dish was the Scallop Crudo ($22). The scallops were clean-tasting and not fishy. The pickled chilis added heat, and the rhubarb leche de tigre gave it a nice pop.

The Elote ($15), which is a shaved sheet of corn, came piping hot. Crunchy and cheesy, each nibble gave way to sweet, salty kernels.

For our second drink, Betty, Kournikova and I had the Patrón Margarita ($19), while Québécoise chose a Ma-W-Eh Hi-Ball ($12). The margarita was good too; citrusy, salty on the rim, potent yet smooth.

We ordered the 6 oz Flank Steak ($22) medium rare. It came out closer to well done, though the presentation was beautiful.

The Seared Cabbage ($17) fires off on all cylinders. The cabbage was hot and tender, yet still crispy. The whipped feta was decadent, the salsa macha smoky, and the candied peanut sweet. Nom, nom, nom! Milpa serves one of the best versions of charred cabbage in the city. I made a mental note to bring my friend Lululemon to Milpa. She’d appreciate the vegetarian dishes and the cocktails.

Another must-order is the Quesabirria Taco ($14). I dipped the taco into the steaming-hot consommé and bite through the crackly shell. I loved the blistered edges of the taco and the flavour bomb of the meat, salsa, and cheese. I had to suck back juices from the beef brisket. It was messy in the best possible way.

We were all happy with our experience. What I appreciated most was how hot each dish was and how fresh the raw appetizers were. It was also nice to enjoy twelve buck Pineapple Nom-Nom instead of the standard $20-and-up cocktails at most bars. Don’t get me wrong, I know alcohol is expensive, and restaurants need to make money to keep running. But whenever I see a well-priced drink, the inner student in me squeals with glee.

On the way out, we ran into Trevor Nguyen, the general manager, and André Bueno, the bar manager. We chatted with them briefly and thanked them for such a great meal. Congrats to Duncan and the team on the delicious revamp of the menu.

Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.

Wine tasting

Metrovino Fine Wines: All-Stars France

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To celebrate its 30 years in business, Metrovino hosted an All-Stars series showcasing its longtime wine heroes. France ($78.75) kicked off the series. I went alone to this one, without my usual crew. For this post, let’s listen to Comfort Eagle.

Metrovino, I learned, used to be a warehouse and dates back to 1914. With exposed wood posts and beams from floor to ceiling, it’s a cozy spot for some wine education.

This evening showcased the stars and friends of Richard Harvey, Metrovino’s co-founder. Richard mentioned that, in many cases, his friends’ children have taken over the business, or are in the process of doing so. He told us the work isn’t cushy, and it’s far easier to go into the city and push paper for a living than to do the hard work of farming. That resonated with me, as I remember watching how hard my mother worked as a small business owner. It is certainly not for the faint of heart.

1. Terres Falmet

The first wine hero of the evening is Yves Falmet from Creissan, Languedoc, a hands-on producer. Richard noted that Terres doesn’t make many rosés, and this particular type is quite popular right now. I bought a bottle of 2025 Saint-Chinian Sibylline Rosé ($28, discounted 15% to $23.80) for my girlfriends, and they all enjoyed the crisp, clean flavour.

2. Domaine Vincent Carême

Vincent and Tania Carême are from Vernou-sur-Brenne in the Loire Valley. I enjoyed the 2023 Vouvray Le Peu Morier ($66, discounted 15% to $56.10), as I found it fresh and weighty. Vouvray is made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that’s sensitive to the growing season. One year the wine can be bone dry, and the next, sweet. Richard called 2023 a dry year for the Vouvray. I bought a bottle, and, as Richard suggested, I’ll pair it with poultry, mushrooms, salmon or white fish.

3. Château de Beauregard

I’m familiar with the Burrier family: Frederic, Sylvie, Julien, Baptiste, and Berenger, as Metrovino has hosted a tasting in their honour in the past summer. This wine is from the famous village of Fuissé, in Burgundy. Made from pure Chardonnay, the 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru La Maréchaude ($81) was described by Richard as bright, energetic and peppery, and one worth aging. I found this wine unusual as I’ve never tasted anything like this before.

Around this time, Eva Hudson, a Metrovino partner, made us jambon-beurre, using baguettes from Mari Bakery and Terroir Artisan butter. What a scrumptious sandwich! Biting into the crusty bread, filled with cold, rich butter, and cool layers of finely sliced ham with the sharp, acidic bite from the cornichons had me salivating. Gluttonous and without shame, I took a second helping.

4. Château Thivin

Richard introduced us to the Geoffray family: Claude Vincent, Evelyne, Claude Edouard, and Sonja from Odenas, Beaujolais. Sara Boucher, partner at Metrovino, mentioned she found the 2023 Brouilly Reverdon ($43) perfect, not too thin or thick, and very fresh. Again, I found this wine interesting as I couldn’t describe it myself. I confirmed with Sara that I should serve wines cellar-cool: red at 16–18°C and whites at 14–16°C.

5. Famille Pierre Gaillard

The 2024 Saint-Joseph Syrah ($55) received the most vocal reaction from the crowd. I could hear oohs and aahs from what seemed like the regulars in the room. The family behind the wine includes Pierre, Pascale, Jeanne, Pierre-Antoine, and Elise, from Malleval, Rhône Valley. Richard also happily pointed out that the next generation in the Gaillard family is stepping in. I could taste spice in the wine, which was exciting, since detecting notes doesn’t come often to me. I was tempted to buy a bottle for my wine club, but I tend to pick wines that are easy to talk about, like the Vouvray. Richard described this wine as energetic, juicy and complex.

6. Clos du Gravillas

The 2023 Lo Vielh Carignan de 100 ans ($47) from Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Languedoc, was truly gulpable. I found this wine silky and juicy. The Bojanowski family includes Nicole, John, and Sacha, with their son taking over the business. Richard adores this Carignan but says it has to be grown in the right place. These vines are over a century old, which is why this one really works. He likes this wine so much he bought a barrel, which holds 300 bottles.

I already bought tickets to Metrovino’s three remaining series: Germany, Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Wine tasting

The People Behind the Label: Juice Imports at Vine Arts

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Erik Mercier was back in town! Last week, he hosted “Wine Stories with Erik” ($55) at Vine Arts. The evening focused on stories about the incredible winemakers and grape growers he and his business partner, Mark Couillard, have met since founding Juice Imports in 2016. I rallied up the troops: Forty-seven, Lovegastrogirl, Divine Offering, Joltea, K-Dog, and Dimples. Let’s listen to Super Sad for this post.

For the first time since I’ve been coming, the welcome drink was a non-alcoholic beverage, Meadows Sparkling, a collaboration between Dominion Cider Co and Pamplemousse Jus Natural Winery. Divine Offering liked it so much she bought a bottle. Made with apple, Pinot Gris juices, and botanicals, it was sweet and herbal.

Erik opened by discussing how natural wine aligns with his philosophy of farming ethically. A lot of what he discussed reminded me of an article, “Considering Value,” by Al Drinkle. Both are asking us if you can afford to be selective: who do you want to support? While you’re at it, Drinkle’s “Die Stinktiere” is also worth a read.

*Photo credit:* DIE STINKTIERE, Metrovino (2026)

Erik stated that we lose sight of the people behind the label when we’re only thinking about what’s in the glass. Farming, he reminded us, is one of the oldest jobs there is, and that shows in winemaking. The work isn’t glamorous. It’s people working in overalls, not men holding silver cups.

As we sipped Weingut Beurer “A Nice White” ($32.49) from Swabia, Germany, Erik reminisced about working for the owners, Marion and Jochen Beurer, the latter an ex-BMX champion. Jochen waits until the birds want the grapes before picking them for wine. By then, the seeds have already turned brown. Erik described the “nice white” wine as floral and peachy.

Divine Offering was smitten with the next wine, Escala Humana Malvasia from Valle de Uco, Argentina ($35), marvelling that it tasted just like the cream soda from her childhood, Sri Lanka’s Elephant House brand. K-Dog picked up something soapier, comparing it to Thrills gum. I tasted floral notes.

This was Erik’s first time trying Gut Oggau Eugenie Weiss from Burgenland, Austria ($120.49), even though he’s worked with Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe, the couple behind Gut Oggau, for ten years. He told us that when the Tscheppes first started farming, they’d trade art and food for wine with their neighbours, which is why their house is now filled with beautiful artwork. Erik noted that Gut Oggau wines are among the most sought-after in the world, yet here in Alberta, Canada, you can still find these gems, while places in New York and Tokyo are always sold out.

Erik spoke at length about the producers behind Testalonga “Chin Up” Cinsault Swartland, South Africa ($37.99): Craig and Carla Hawkins. Not only are they pioneering icons of South African wine, but they are also genuinely great people. They are very quiet about giving back. They don’t talk about virtue. They do it. The Hawkins, along with other local farmers, operate a non-profit that supports kids in the community living in poverty, offering hot meals and an early childhood development centre with activities, events, and camps.

Erik pointed to the wine label, noting that Craig’s brother had taken a photo in Cambodia of a young child with a band-aid on her finger. The title, “Chin Up,” is a reminder to people to stay resilient and maintain a positive attitude during tough times. Joltea took a sip and informed Divine Offering that she really liked it. Divine Offering said the Hawkins are the type of person/winery she loves to support. I bought a bottle for when Joltea and the gang come over to my house.

Most of my friends’ favourite was the Pamplemousse Jus Foch Nouveau ($46.99) from Summerland, British Columbia. Erik wanted to shed special light on Pamplemousse due to the recent fires in Summerland. The owners had to close their farm, which meant losing weeks of revenue at their tasting room. He encouraged our table to purchase this delicious wine, which is served at most of the Michelin-starred restaurants in BC. Divine Offering, Dimples, K-Dog and I purchased a bottle. Erik described this wine as tasting “purple”, fruity, plum-y, and juicy.

The last wine we tasted was Drunken Nights from Nuits d’Ivresse in Loire Valley, France ($51.49). I dug the smooth, dry texture and the tangy finish. Erik mentioned that only the best grapes, black as the night, intense, powerful and concentrated, are used. I would have bought a bottle, but I already went over my wine budget for August.

Erik now lives in BC with his fiancée. From his Instagram posts, he’s living his best life. My friends and I miss his Sunday tastings and the pop-up events he used to do. However, I’m happy for him, and I will be filling up my time by checking out Metrovino’s All-Star Series. Also worth noting, Vine Art is hosting a Grower Champagne tasting September 19, 2026.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Vegetarian

Padmanadi Calgary: Indonesian Vegan Restaurant Review

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I took my parents out for lunch. I was initially going to take them to Pho Pham in Chinatown, but I noticed there were no vegetarian options. Boss Lady suggested Padmanadi so that Ludwig could have a wider selection of food. Let’s listen to Dai Dai for this post.

The last time I took my parents and in-laws out for dinner at Emerald Garden, Boss Lady complained that I hadn’t ordered enough lobster. I should have ordered two. That way, she said, everyone could eat lobster to their heart’s content. She was right. I tend not to order much because I don’t want to overeat. Boss Lady reminded me that I don’t have to eat it all. I just have to make sure there’s enough food for everyone at the table.

I took her unsolicited advice to heart when I ordered lunch. For the three of us, I picked: Satay with Peanut Sauce ($10), Deep Fried Tofu ($13), Roti Canai ($13), Curry Chicken ($22), Rendang ($20), Kwetiau Goreng ($19), Jasmine Tea ($3.75) and a small bowl of Jasmine Rice ($2.75). I didn’t order a fourth main dish because I wanted to leave room for dessert after Boss Lady spotted the deep-fried bananas with ice cream.

Our server, Hufsa, stood out for how genuinely thoughtful she was. Rather than having us order individual teas, she suggested we share a pot. I also appreciated the restaurant’s personal touches, from the bright yellow mugs with their sleek handles to the fresh lemon slices in our water glasses.

Ludwig watched eagerly as the food began filling our table. He quickly reached for a piece of tofu, but I barked that we hadn’t taken our pictures yet. He pulled his hand back, visibly annoyed, and sat looking a little sullen while we snapped a few photos. It was completely out of character for him. Normally, he sits back patiently and waits for Boss Lady to tell him which dishes are vegetarian.

I knew Ludwig would like the tofu dish. The plate was piled high with puffed-up, golden cubes of tofu. The outside was a thin, delicate layer while the inside was light and airy; it was like eating delicious, crispy air. The dipping sauce was sweet soy sauce, thick and dark like balsamic vinegar. Ludwig ate each piece like popcorn, a delighted smile stretching across his face.

I knew Boss Lady would enjoy the satay skewers. The faux chicken was soft and chewy, with crisp edges. The peanut sauce was generously applied and sweet, but not overpoweringly so. When I asked Boss Lady what she thought, she said everything was good. However, next time, she suggested skipping the chicken skewers and ordering the rendang instead, as she found the two dishes too similar.

The rendang was delicious, though it wasn’t as spicy as advertised. The faux meat was softer than beef, with a texture more akin to bean curd. Rather than swimming in curry, it was coated in an almost dry sauce with rich, nutty and roasted flavours. Some of the potatoes, however, were slightly undercooked.

Boss Lady closed her eyes with the first bite of kwetiau goreng, looking downright ecstatic. She pointed out that the bean sprouts were still crunchy and not overcooked. The thick, luscious noodles had the most delectable chew and were fragrant with smoky wok hei.

As Ludwig took a bite of the noodles, his face lit up. Gleefully, he announced that he was going to quote me, repeating a line I often use on my blog: “I would order this again!” I made a mental note to find some new material, though, in my defence, that’s genuinely how I judge whether a dish is good.

The yellow curry and noodles were my favourite dishes. The curry had a pleasant heat, and the mix of cauliflower, carrots and broccoli retained a clean, snappy bite. The faux chicken had a texture remarkably similar to the real thing, firm and springy, while the creamy curry was so good I could have drunk it. Boss Lady and I shared a bowl of jasmine rice to soak up the sauce.

The roti arrived piping hot. Ludwig tore into the bread with gusto. I enjoyed peeling apart its delicate, flaky layers before dipping each piece into the curry.

Boss Lady recalled the time she humoured Ludwig by going to a vegetarian restaurant in Richmond. Her assessment was blunt: the hostess looked mean, the restaurant was filthy, and she walked out. Padmanadi, she declared, was the exact opposite: modern, bright and spotless, with exceptional service. She’s right. Hufsa packed our leftovers, kept our teapot filled with hot water and, after noticing what messy eaters we were, brought us extra napkins. She even offered to take our picture at the end of the meal. Hufsa is the kind of server other restaurants should be trying to poach.

Ludwig noted that food goes down so smoothly when it’s vegetarian. I agreed though Boss Lady did not, as she moaned that she had eaten too much. She was even too full for her favourite dessert, deep-fried bananas with ice cream.

The food is so outstanding, Padmanadi is now on my list of best restaurants in Calgary. Boss Lady wants to bring my siblings here when they visit. Padmanadi also offers catering, something I’ll have to keep in mind for our next big family gathering.