Park By Sidewalk Citizen: Serious Cooking in a Beautiful Room

Kournikova, Betty, Québécoise and I met up at my house before dinner. We started the evening with a bottle of Roza Petsovits by Franz Weninger. Kournikova took one sip and let out a pent up sigh, declaring she enjoyed it just as much as she had at Weninger’s tasting at Vine Arts. She recalled Franz saying he doesn’t make wine for taste, but for feeling. Judging from how much we drank, I’d say we were all feeling pretty good. Let’s listen to Amour Plastique for this post.

For dinner, I suggested Park by Sidewalk Citizen. Kournikova cares about the quality of meat, and Park offers three specialty plates: Cultured Heritage Chicken ($65), Beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), and Aged Alberta AAA Beef Three Ways ($115). Betty always orders beef tartare, dessert, and pasta, all of which Park does well. Québécoise gravitates toward vegetables, and Park offers seven options. Everyone agreed, though Kournikova reminded me we still need to try IBU next.

Our gallant server, Russ, greeted us enthusiastically and presented us with three table options. Québécoise immediately chose the side booth table and remarked that she appreciated being given a choice. I noticed Russ offering the same option to other guests as well. The right table shapes the entire experience.

Québécoise, who has a professional eye for design, admired the plywood walls for their rough beauty and unexpected complexity. She said the entire room was exceptionally well done. Coming from her, that’s high praise.

The owner came over to say hello. I recognized her from the media buzz surrounding Guy Fieri’s visit. She asked whether we were celebrating anything special. I told her we were celebrating friendship. So corny, but true.

We started with cocktails and later, a bottle of Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France ($85). We also ordered a lot of food: Shrimp ($21), Calamari ($16), Baby Kale ($18), Seared Cauliflower ($19), Parisian Gnocchi ($20), and the Aged Alberta Beef Three Ways. I wanted to try the dry-aged lamb, but no one else was interested. Kournikova told Betty to take the pictures before I could even ask. She knows me too well. Though I suspect her thoughtfulness had more to do with avoiding photography duties herself. I don’t blame her. That’s why I outsource.

I was surprised by how much I liked the baby kale salad. The kale was small, delicate, and tender. Fat dark-red sour cherries burst with juice, while the pecans added a delicate crunch. I didn’t find the figs overly sweet, and the ricotta brought balance and creaminess to the dish. I would order this again.

The fan favourite was the shrimp. I loved the red sauce and the polenta underneath, slick with some sort of oil. I usually don’t like polenta, but Park’s version was damn fine. The shrimp were massive, crunchy, seasoned with guanciale, chili, and garlic.

I was most interested in trying the calamari. Park’s version was different from what I’m accustomed. I noticed heat from the berbere, which is an East African spice blend commonly used in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking. The ringlets and curly pieces of squid lay over a pretty backdrop of white labneh and cucumbers.

Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise all declared the cauliflower their favourite vegetable dish of the night. The plate featured at least half a dozen large florets, seasoned with brown butter, harissa, labneh, and sesame. Despite the deep sear, the cauliflower retained its shape and texture. While I enjoyed it, I was even more impressed by the fried Brussels sprouts.

The Brussels sprouts were firm and slightly sweet from the sauce. The pork cheeks were crispy, and when you bit into one, you’d get a hot burst of rich, rendered pork fat. My friends all noticed the luscious, herbaceous green sauce coating the sprouts. I would order this again.

I thought the steak was even better than the last time I tried the aged Alberta AAA beef three-ways. I liked the contrast between the soft, chewy centre of the 21-day dry-aged striploin and the luscious cap of fat along the edge. The 45-day tallow-aged short rib seemed especially tender and rich. Québécoise enjoyed the spice on the steak, along with the onions, which were still crunchy and lightly pickled.

By the end of the meal, we still had four large pieces of steak, some gnocchi, and a quarter of the Brussels sprouts left. Kournikova observed that we had over-ordered, and everyone insisted I take the leftovers home.

Chef Stefan Gusztak came by near the end of the meal to say hello. We follow each other on Instagram, and I guess he recognized me, something that never happens to me. He also surprised us with dessert, a thoughtful gesture that was entirely unnecessary but very much appreciated. Unfortunately, the photo I took does not do it justice.

Kournikova noted that the house-made Turtles ice cream ($10) wasn’t as dense as she expected. Instead, it was lighter, colder, and creamier. My eyes nearly rolled into the back of my head as it melted across my tongue. The daily doughnut ($7) was such a wholesome treat, reminding me of elementary school hot-dog-and-doughnut day, except infinitely better. The cool custard filling wasn’t overly sweet, balanced by the sweeter chocolate layer on top. Without question, it was the dough that made it so special. It was light and clean tasting, without any oily heaviness.

This was my second visit, and I stand by what I wrote in my earlier post. Park by Sidewalk Citizen is where I’d take out-of-town guests to show off Alberta beef. The beautiful solarium matches the calibre of the cooking, while the service and hospitality are bar none. Hitting the Sauce gives Park by Sidewalk Citizen two phat thumbs up.

Want more dinner spots worth dressing up for? I keep a running list of Calgary’s best date night restaurants.

Bars/Lounges · Restaurants · Seafood · Special Occasion

Crazyweed Canmore Review: Happy Hour and Mountain Views

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On our way back from Banff, I suggested we stop at Crazyweed in Canmore. The last time I ate there was probably around 2010. Back then, having moved from Vancouver, I found Calgary’s restaurant scene underwhelming. Chew Steel insisted I simply wasn’t going to the right places. Early in our relationship, he introduced me to restaurants like Wa’s Japanese, Petite, and Crazyweed. Let’s listen to Espresso for this post.

I tried to make reservations, but everything between 2:00 and 4:00 p.m. was booked, likely because happy hour runs daily from 2-5 p.m., with 50% off drinks and 25% off appetizers. An employee initially asked if we were okay sitting at the bar. I was disappointed, but I said yes. She paused, then offered us a table with a view instead, explaining she would need it back by 3:30 p.m. for another reservation. We assured her we’d be gone within the hour.

I was thrilled with our table. The oversized leather chair overlooked the mountains and was comfortable enough to settle into for the hour. The blue and brown room was filled with large, healthy tropical plants, giving the space a relaxed energy.

On the menu, I noticed bottles priced around $50, with many more in the $60 range, making this a surprisingly affordable place to share wine. I was impressed with the wine program, particularly because the list was written in layman’s terms. I’m not at the point where I can scan a wine list and instantly understand the selections. However, I can read. Below is the menu’s description of the Kir Yianni 2022 Naoussa Cuvée Villages Xinomavro, a wine our server recommended:

Vibrant red + black fruit on the nose w/ aromas of strawberries, cherries + plums. A crisp & forward mouthfeel with delicate notes of sweet spices and tobacco, full body with good acidity and smooth tannins that add structure and lead to a pleasant finish. Distinctions Cold Medal 95 points, the Decanter World Wine Awards 2025!

We shared three appetizers: the Pickle Brined Fried Chicken (HH $18, Regular $26), the Burrata (HH $19.50, Regular $26), and the Beef Tartare (HH $20.24, Regular $27).

The first dish we tried was the beef tartare, made with Alberta Sterling Silver tenderloin. I enjoyed the cool, creamy richness of the beef and its soft, slightly chewy texture. The tartare was well-balanced, seasoned with curry leaf aioli, crispy capers, and lemon zest. My wine (HH $10, reg. $20) seemed to bring out the dish’s black pepper notes. Crazyweed does one of the better beef tartares I’ve had in a while.

Divine Offering’s favourite dish of the afternoon was the pickle-brined fried chicken. The lemon and butterleaf help cut into the richness of the hot, crunchy chicken and the decadence of the garlic aioli. Absolutely scrumptious. I would get the fried chicken again.

I find burrata is either a hit or a miss. There are so few ingredients that if anything is off, the whole dish fails. This version was a winner. The grilled crostini was toothsome yet crunchy, the ideal backdrop to the cool, clean softness of the white cheese and fresh tomato. I loved the occasional pop of salt. Everything turned luscious once the bread was dredged through the green oil.

The food was so good we ate in silence, chewing slowly to stretch out the meal for as long as possible. I made a mental note to return to Canmore for Crazyweed alone. Hitting the Sauce gives Crazyweed two phat thumbs up.

Want more travel recommendations? I keep a running collection of restaurant and travel guides organized by city.

Bars/Lounges · Special Occasion · Sushi

Fairmont Banff Springs: Is Fairmont Gold Worth It?

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After 16 years in Calgary, Banff remains my favourite place to disappear for a weekend. Last Halloween, Divine Offering and I had planned a stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs, but I had to cancel at the last minute. We finally made it out in late April. For this travel post, let’s listen to I Ain’t Worried by OneRepublic.

My sister-in-law suggested booking Fairmont Gold, the hotel-within-a-hotel upgrade. It gives you access to a dedicated lounge for breakfast, snacks, and evening canapés. There’s also a separate entrance and a team to help you with your stay.

With shoulder-season pricing, rooms were at their lowest of the year. A double queen-size Gold room was around $700 (Alberta resident rate) while a basic non-Gold room hovered around $400. In peak season, those rates easily double. Daily charges also included the Resort Experience Fee ($65), the Room Tourism Fee ($15.29), valet parking ($60), and the Alberta Tourism Levy ($31.18).

The day before we left, a windstorm rolled into Calgary. The snow hadn’t started up yet, so we headed out early to stay ahead of it. If you’re driving to Banff, remember to pick up a Banff Pass ($49 for 2 days). You’ll need a pass even if your car stays parked at the hotel.

We arrived super early. The Fairmont Gold concierge team, Georgine and Katie, welcomed us and assured us they’d handle the luggage. Katie promised to text once the room was ready. When Georgine asked about our plans for the morning, I admitted I needed a moment to regroup before heading into town. She pointed us toward the Gold lounge and encouraged us to settle in with a bite to eat.

The Gold lounge is larger than I expected. A central kitchen anchors a table full of hot breakfast items. Separate stations offer coffee, tea, smoothies, and cold drinks. Breakfast spread across the central table includes eggs benny, hash browns, scrambled eggs, sausages, yogurt, oatmeal, bacon, baked goods, fruit, and smoked salmon. On the other side of the reception area, there’s an honour bar and more rooms to relax.

Just as we were about to leave, Katie texted to let us know they’d prioritized our room so I could rest before heading into town. She’d also moved us to a quieter section of the hotel for a better night’s sleep. It was a thoughtful touch that set the tone for the rest of the weekend.

Part of the appeal of staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs is getting to explore the historic castle itself. We started our morning with a wilderness walk alongside Lily, the hotel dog. She led us to Bow Falls, occasionally glancing back while I rested on a bench trying to catch my breath. I’ve never felt so judged by a dog. She was clearly unimpressed with my pace. After returning Lily, we headed into town for lunch.

I wanted to try Yama Onigiri, a small Japanese cafe. There are only two tables and a few stools to eat in. The majority of customers take out. I ordered the soup and onigiri combo ($14.99), which included a premium pork miso, a Hokkaido scallop onigiri, and a strawberry matcha with oat milk ($7.80). Divine Offering ordered the classic tuna onigiri ($7.50) and a mochi matcha tiramisu ($6.50).

The strawberry matcha is a must-order. The cool, jelly-like strawberry compote tasted like fresh, sweet strawberries. The matcha oat milk was grassy, clean and creamy. How good was this strawberry matcha? Better than a glass of wine. Coming from me, that’s high praise indeed.

The miso soup was served steaming hot. Though not large, it’s a hearty bowl, generously filled with firm white onions, bright orange carrots, and slices of stewed pork. I would order the soup again.

The warm rice in the Hokkaido scallop onigiri was perfectly chewy and buttery. The filling of dried scallops and bonito flakes was salty and deeply savoury. Despite its baseball size, I was still hungry and ordered a second one. I should have ordered a dessert instead. The rice in the second onigiri was noticeably mushier.

We spent the walk back browsing the shops along Banff Avenue, picking up small gifts for my parents, in-laws, nieces, and nephews. By the time we got back to the hotel, I was ready for a nap.

Our room was comfortable and, while not especially large, still felt spacious enough. I accidentally turned on the secondary shower spray and flooded part of the bathroom floor. One text from the Fairmont Gold team solved the problem almost immediately. Adam sent up a technician right away, and by the time we returned, the bathroom was spotless, stocked with fresh towels, and set up with a new bath mat.

That evening, we joined a history tour of the hotel led by Ben, a British expat. He walked us through the grand staircases, ballroom, and other historic spaces while explaining the hotel’s Scottish-inspired architecture. One of the most interesting parts of the tour was learning about the Canadian Pacific Railway and how the hotel was originally built to lure wealthy travellers west. There’s so much history tucked into the Banff Springs, and I liked that the hotel offered so many ways to experience it.

After our tour, we stopped by the Gold lounge for evening canapés. The spread included chicken wings, steak bites, salads, cheeses, and vegetables. The next evening featured pork ribs, shrimp skewers, and perogies with all the fixings. I also noticed my pinot noir ($14) from the honour bar cost two dollars less than the same glass at Rundle Bar, where we headed later for cocktails.

On Saturday, we signed up for a cocktail class ($60) on the second floor of Rundle Bar, led by Vincente. He taught us how to make three cocktails and shared practical techniques we could realistically use at home. At the end of the class, we were encouraged to sit back and finish our drinks beside the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Bow Valley and Mount Rundle. The views alone made the experience feel worth it.

Later that evening, we walked down the hill to Fire & Falls: Stories Around the Campfire, held outside the Waldhaus Pub. What a highlight. Ben was our guide again. While he took the other guests on a short wildlife walk, I stayed behind by the fire, wrapped in the smell of smoke, heat and cold mountain air. That’s when I spoke with Shawayne Dunston, an author and poet who kept me company beside the flames. At one point, he improvised a poem on the spot before recommending a stack of books he thought I’d enjoy reading.

When the group returned, we gathered around the crackling fire to roast marshmallows while Ben shared stories about wildlife in Banff. Long after the others drifted off for the evening, Divine Offering and I stayed behind beside the glowing embers and ended up in conversation with the CEO of Top Dish Inc. We had an interesting discussion on data, consumer behaviour, and customer service.

No stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs is complete without a visit to the hotel spa’s mineral pools ($125 for three hours). I could have booked a massage ($420 for 90 minutes), which would have included access to the pools, but since I already had one scheduled for the following Monday, I settled on the day pass instead.

Divine Offering and I spent Sunday morning moving between the indoor mineral pool, outdoor heated pool, whirlpools, sauna, and steam room. We finished the experience in the spa lounge, sipping tea and enjoying another sweeping view of the mountains. By the time we checked out, we both felt relaxed.

During the off-season, I think Fairmont Gold at the Fairmont Banff Springs is absolutely worth it. Between the lounge access, thoughtful service, and the chance to slow down and appreciate the history, architecture, and atmosphere of the iconic castle-like hotel, the experience felt restorative. A special thank you to Georgine, Katie, Adam, Ben, Shawayne, Vincente, and the rest of the Fairmont Gold team for making the weekend feel so welcoming from start to finish.

Want more travel recommendations? I keep a running collection of travel and restaurant guides organized by city.

Disclaimer: I paid for all my expenses at Fairmont Banff Springs.

Mediterranean · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Park by Sidewalk Citizen: One of Calgary’s best meals

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Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order at least two plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how dry-aging and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for an upscale restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

This is easily one of the best restaurants in Calgary if you care about both food and room. When the cooking hits this hard and the service keeps pace, it’s hard to forget a meal like this. Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up.

Bars/Lounges · French · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Francine: A Standout French Restaurant in Calgary

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Divine Offering turned 31! To celebrate this occasion, we went to Francine’s in Calgary’s Chinatown district. Though it was a Tuesday night at 6:00 p.m., the restaurant was packed with customers celebrating, and staff hustling to keep up with the steady stream of drink orders. Let’s listen to Fight Song by Rachel Platten for this post.

When I arrived, a customer at a nearby table looked strangely familiar. I’m notorious for thinking I recognize people I actually don’t know and giving them awkward, puzzled stares. Before I could embarrass myself further, I broke eye contact and headed to my table.

The tables at Francine’s are New York tight. If you’re over a size six, take the outside chair; otherwise, you may find your seat uncomfortably close to the next table. The close quarters also make for good eavesdropping, if you’re into that sort of thing. A particularly loud group of Flames-jersey-wearing diners made it nearly impossible for me to hear Divine Offering. I had to shout several times just to get her to repeat herself.

Perhaps I am so hyper-observant because I’ve been off the sauce for more than half the month due to medical treatments, an adjustment I’m still getting used to. While the birthday girl gleefully nursed a Francine 75 (1.5 oz, $16), murmuring demurely about how strong it was, I, mournfully, made do with a house pineapple pulp soda ($6). I worked my way through the slightly tart, bubbly drink while enviously watching the tables around me happily lingering over their glasses of wine.

We shared the Tuna Tartare ($22.95), silky pink cubes of tuna tossed with bits of apple, crunchy potato chip sticks for texture, and calamansi, an Asian citrus, that reminded me of fresh grapefruit. I preferred the calamansi to lemon or yuzu as its flavour was brighter, slightly sweet, and fragrant. I would order this again.

For our main, we shared the Steak À La Francine for two ($78.95). The generous 14-oz confit Delmonico-style steak was served with potato purée and a little gem salad. I encouraged Divine Offering to order a glass of wine. She ordered Francine’s house red (6 oz, $13). I enjoyed the salad, crisp lettuce leaves lightly glossed with olive oil and brightened with fresh mint. The freshness helped balance the richness of the steak and potatoes. When I order the steak frites ($39.99) in the future, I’ll be adding a salad. It nicely cuts through the richness of all that steak and fries.

The purée was a welcome component for soaking up the saucy steak, though it wasn’t quite as mind-blowing as the ultra-crispy fries. I ordered French fries ($9.95) near the end of the meal because I was craving them. By that point, however, I was completely stuffed, so I brought the leftovers home to Chew Steel.

Our server told us the steak had been braised for three days. That evening, instead of the usual peppercorn sauce, it was prepared with an Asian spin. The meat was ridiculously tender, and the subtle sauce, with its faint hint of five-spice, reminded me of duck. Divine Offering loved the steak’s charred, crispy edges. For a few moments, we ate in silence, listening to the satisfying crackle of the fries.

Now that I’ve tried both versions, the steak frites with peppercorn sauce and the Steak À La Francine with the Asian twist, here’s my advice. If it’s your first visit to Francine’s, go for the steak frites with peppercorn sauce. If you love duck or want something slightly lighter than the peppercorn version or something to think about, order the latter if it’s being featured. Both are excellent, and you really can’t go wrong.

For dessert, I suggested Divine Offering order the French Toast ($12.95). I raved about the soft, eggy toast, covered in honey caramel and topped with cold honey ice cream, and how the salty notes from the sauce and 14-month Comté cheese elevate this dessert to legendary status. Our server thoughtfully added a candle for the birthday girl. Divine Offering sat in quiet concentration, clearly delighted with each mouthful.

The next day, after finishing my workout at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, Robert Jewell, the food and beverage manager at the Exchange, came up to me and asked how I liked Francine’s. Small world! It turns out he was the mystery diner. It seems you never quite know who might be sitting at the next table at Francine’s.

Robert previously hosted TV’s A Is for Apple, worked with Chef Michael Allemeier, and oversaw several Concorde restaurants. I recognized Chef Allemeier’s name from my days in Vancouver, when he was the chef at Bishop’s, an upscale restaurant that was well out of my budget at the time. Robert also explained why I’m so obsessed with the Exchange’s chicken fingers and fries ($15 on the kids’ menu). He states the honey mustard poppyseed sauce is made from scratch, with all local ingredients. I also love the fries, which are clearly homemade and very potatoey.

Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.