Park By Sidewalk Citizen: Serious Cooking in a Beautiful Room

Kournikova, Betty, Québécoise and I met up at my house before dinner. We started the evening with a bottle of Roza Petsovits by Franz Weninger. Kournikova took one sip and let out a pent up sigh, declaring she enjoyed it just as much as she had at Weninger’s tasting at Vine Arts. She recalled Franz saying he doesn’t make wine for taste, but for feeling. Judging from how much we drank, I’d say we were all feeling pretty good. Let’s listen to Amour Plastique for this post.

For dinner, I suggested Park by Sidewalk Citizen. Kournikova cares about the quality of meat, and Park offers three specialty plates: Cultured Heritage Chicken ($65), Beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), and Aged Alberta AAA Beef Three Ways ($115). Betty always orders beef tartare, dessert, and pasta, all of which Park does well. Québécoise gravitates toward vegetables, and Park offers seven options. Everyone agreed, though Kournikova reminded me we still need to try IBU next.

Our gallant server, Russ, greeted us enthusiastically and presented us with three table options. Québécoise immediately chose the side booth table and remarked that she appreciated being given a choice. I noticed Russ offering the same option to other guests as well. The right table shapes the entire experience.

Québécoise, who has a professional eye for design, admired the plywood walls for their rough beauty and unexpected complexity. She said the entire room was exceptionally well done. Coming from her, that’s high praise.

The owner came over to say hello. I recognized her from the media buzz surrounding Guy Fieri’s visit. She asked whether we were celebrating anything special. I told her we were celebrating friendship. So corny, but true.

We started with cocktails and later, a bottle of Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France ($85). We also ordered a lot of food: Shrimp ($21), Calamari ($16), Baby Kale ($18), Seared Cauliflower ($19), Parisian Gnocchi ($20), and the Aged Alberta Beef Three Ways. I wanted to try the dry-aged lamb, but no one else was interested. Kournikova told Betty to take the pictures before I could even ask. She knows me too well. Though I suspect her thoughtfulness had more to do with avoiding photography duties herself. I don’t blame her. That’s why I outsource.

I was surprised by how much I liked the baby kale salad. The kale was small, delicate, and tender. Fat dark-red sour cherries burst with juice, while the pecans added a delicate crunch. I didn’t find the figs overly sweet, and the ricotta brought balance and creaminess to the dish. I would order this again.

The fan favourite was the shrimp. I loved the red sauce and the polenta underneath, slick with some sort of oil. I usually don’t like polenta, but Park’s version was damn fine. The shrimp were massive, crunchy, seasoned with guanciale, chili, and garlic.

I was most interested in trying the calamari. Park’s version was different from what I’m accustomed. I noticed heat from the berbere, which is an East African spice blend commonly used in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking. The ringlets and curly pieces of squid lay over a pretty backdrop of white labneh and cucumbers.

Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise all declared the cauliflower their favourite vegetable dish of the night. The plate featured at least half a dozen large florets, seasoned with brown butter, harissa, labneh, and sesame. Despite the deep sear, the cauliflower retained its shape and texture. While I enjoyed it, I was even more impressed by the fried Brussels sprouts.

The Brussels sprouts were firm and slightly sweet from the sauce. The pork cheeks were crispy, and when you bit into one, you’d get a hot burst of rich, rendered pork fat. My friends all noticed the luscious, herbaceous green sauce coating the sprouts. I would order this again.

I thought the steak was even better than the last time I tried the aged Alberta AAA beef three-ways. I liked the contrast between the soft, chewy centre of the 21-day dry-aged striploin and the luscious cap of fat along the edge. The 45-day tallow-aged short rib seemed especially tender and rich. Québécoise enjoyed the spice on the steak, along with the onions, which were still crunchy and lightly pickled.

By the end of the meal, we still had four large pieces of steak, some gnocchi, and a quarter of the Brussels sprouts left. Kournikova observed that we had over-ordered, and everyone insisted I take the leftovers home.

Chef Stefan Gusztak came by near the end of the meal to say hello. We follow each other on Instagram, and I guess he recognized me, something that never happens to me. He also surprised us with dessert, a thoughtful gesture that was entirely unnecessary but very much appreciated. Unfortunately, the photo I took does not do it justice.

Kournikova noted that the house-made Turtles ice cream ($10) wasn’t as dense as she expected. Instead, it was lighter, colder, and creamier. My eyes nearly rolled into the back of my head as it melted across my tongue. The daily doughnut ($7) was such a wholesome treat, reminding me of elementary school hot-dog-and-doughnut day, except infinitely better. The cool custard filling wasn’t overly sweet, balanced by the sweeter chocolate layer on top. Without question, it was the dough that made it so special. It was light and clean tasting, without any oily heaviness.

This was my second visit, and I stand by what I wrote in my earlier post. Park by Sidewalk Citizen is where I’d take out-of-town guests to show off Alberta beef. The beautiful solarium matches the calibre of the cooking, while the service and hospitality are bar none. Hitting the Sauce gives Park by Sidewalk Citizen two phat thumbs up.

Want more dinner spots worth dressing up for? I keep a running list of Calgary’s best date night restaurants.

Mediterranean · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Park by Sidewalk Citizen: One of Calgary’s best meals

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Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order at least two plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how dry-aging and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for an upscale restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

This is easily one of the best restaurants in Calgary if you care about both food and room. When the cooking hits this hard and the service keeps pace, it’s hard to forget a meal like this. Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up.

Bars/Lounges · French · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Francine: A Standout French Restaurant in Calgary

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Divine Offering turned 31! To celebrate this occasion, we went to Francine’s in Calgary’s Chinatown district. Though it was a Tuesday night at 6:00 p.m., the restaurant was packed with customers celebrating, and staff hustling to keep up with the steady stream of drink orders. Let’s listen to Fight Song by Rachel Platten for this post.

When I arrived, a customer at a nearby table looked strangely familiar. I’m notorious for thinking I recognize people I actually don’t know and giving them awkward, puzzled stares. Before I could embarrass myself further, I broke eye contact and headed to my table.

The tables at Francine’s are New York tight. If you’re over a size six, take the outside chair; otherwise, you may find your seat uncomfortably close to the next table. The close quarters also make for good eavesdropping, if you’re into that sort of thing. A particularly loud group of Flames-jersey-wearing diners made it nearly impossible for me to hear Divine Offering. I had to shout several times just to get her to repeat herself.

Perhaps I am so hyper-observant because I’ve been off the sauce for more than half the month due to medical treatments, an adjustment I’m still getting used to. While the birthday girl gleefully nursed a Francine 75 (1.5 oz, $16), murmuring demurely about how strong it was, I, mournfully, made do with a house pineapple pulp soda ($6). I worked my way through the slightly tart, bubbly drink while enviously watching the tables around me happily lingering over their glasses of wine.

We shared the Tuna Tartare ($22.95), silky pink cubes of tuna tossed with bits of apple, crunchy potato chip sticks for texture, and calamansi, an Asian citrus, that reminded me of fresh grapefruit. I preferred the calamansi to lemon or yuzu as its flavour was brighter, slightly sweet, and fragrant. I would order this again.

For our main, we shared the Steak À La Francine for two ($78.95). The generous 14-oz confit Delmonico-style steak was served with potato purée and a little gem salad. I encouraged Divine Offering to order a glass of wine. She ordered Francine’s house red (6 oz, $13). I enjoyed the salad, crisp lettuce leaves lightly glossed with olive oil and brightened with fresh mint. The freshness helped balance the richness of the steak and potatoes. When I order the steak frites ($39.99) in the future, I’ll be adding a salad. It nicely cuts through the richness of all that steak and fries.

The purée was a welcome component for soaking up the saucy steak, though it wasn’t quite as mind-blowing as the ultra-crispy fries. I ordered French fries ($9.95) near the end of the meal because I was craving them. By that point, however, I was completely stuffed, so I brought the leftovers home to Chew Steel.

Our server told us the steak had been braised for three days. That evening, instead of the usual peppercorn sauce, it was prepared with an Asian spin. The meat was ridiculously tender, and the subtle sauce, with its faint hint of five-spice, reminded me of duck. Divine Offering loved the steak’s charred, crispy edges. For a few moments, we ate in silence, listening to the satisfying crackle of the fries.

Now that I’ve tried both versions, the steak frites with peppercorn sauce and the Steak À La Francine with the Asian twist, here’s my advice. If it’s your first visit to Francine’s, go for the steak frites with peppercorn sauce. If you love duck or want something slightly lighter than the peppercorn version or something to think about, order the latter if it’s being featured. Both are excellent, and you really can’t go wrong.

For dessert, I suggested Divine Offering order the French Toast ($12.95). I raved about the soft, eggy toast, covered in honey caramel and topped with cold honey ice cream, and how the salty notes from the sauce and 14-month Comté cheese elevate this dessert to legendary status. Our server thoughtfully added a candle for the birthday girl. Divine Offering sat in quiet concentration, clearly delighted with each mouthful.

The next day, after finishing my workout at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, Robert Jewell, the food and beverage manager at the Exchange, came up to me and asked how I liked Francine’s. Small world! It turns out he was the mystery diner. It seems you never quite know who might be sitting at the next table at Francine’s.

Robert previously hosted TV’s A Is for Apple, worked with Chef Michael Allemeier, and oversaw several Concorde restaurants. I recognized Chef Allemeier’s name from my days in Vancouver, when he was the chef at Bishop’s, an upscale restaurant that was well out of my budget at the time. Robert also explained why I’m so obsessed with the Exchange’s chicken fingers and fries ($15 on the kids’ menu). He states the honey mustard poppyseed sauce is made from scratch, with all local ingredients. I also love the fries, which are clearly homemade and very potatoey.

Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.

Bars/Lounges · Chinatown · French · Restaurants · Seafood · Special Occasion · Steakhouse · Wine tasting

Francine Calgary: A Date Night That Actually Holds Up

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For my birthday, Chew Steel and I checked out Francine’s, a new French restaurant that opened up in Calgary’s Chinatown district. I’ve eaten at Francine’s before at a pop-up and a special event dinner, so I knew we were in for a treat. Let’s listen to Paradise by Sade for this post.

I made reservations at the last minute, so I was only able to secure bar seats at 5:15 p.m. As it was so early in the evening, we weren’t super hungry and just ordered two mains, the Steak Frites ($39.95) and the Smoky Trout and Crepes ($42.95). I wanted to try the trout dish because I read an Instagram post by the chef/owner, Garrett Martin, about his creative process for creating some of the dishes.

We started with a cocktail, a Francine’s martini ($17) for me and a Crepe Suzette Old-Fashioned ($16) for Chew Steel. The ice-cold gin-forward martini was aromatic and herby, marked with a distinct note of fennel. As we sipped, I noticed how quickly the room filled on a Tuesday evening. An older Asian couple sat beside us. It was cute to watch him, intently absorbed watching a YouTube video on his phone while his partner quietly ate, content in her own private little world.

The steak frites were among the best I’ve ever had. I don’t want to be dramatic, but the steak here is a must-eat-before-you-die type of experience. The bavette butcher’s steak was beautifully textured, sliced thin yet generously wide, with a charred, rugged exterior and a ruby-red interior that offered a juicy chew. The peppercorn glaze was rich and smooth, with a peppery bite that cut through the steak.

The fries were ridiculously delicious, golden and light, with an ultra-crunchy shell giving way to a whipped potatoey centre. Jordan, our bartender, nailed the wine pairings. For the steak, he paired it with a glass of Cabernet Franc (Domaine La Paleine, $10, 3oz).

The trout was soft and smoky, with a flavour profile reminiscent of salmon. We tore off a piece of crepe and wrapped it around a piece of trout, two types of pickled onion, cucumber, bright green spinach and chives. Each bite was decadent, drippy and messy.

The trout reminded me of Neptune’s famous johnny cakes, but the flavours were more refined. There wasn’t anything fishy or overly sweet. The combination of what I thought were unusual ingredients blew me away. The flavours were rounded and worked so well together that it made me think of head chef Koji Kobayashi’s fine-dining creations at Sukiyaki House. Jordan selected a bright white wine (Juste Le Blanc, Jurancon Sec $8.50, 3 oz) that cut through the smokiness and the decadent white sauce.

The mains are a generous portion, but I still wanted dessert. We shared the French Toast ($12.95) with honey-caramel, honey ice cream, and 15-month Comte cheese, paired with a glass of sherry (Moscatel Peromesa Jerez Valdespino, $13).

The dessert is worthy of Michelin recognition. The thick-cut bread was warm and eggy, layered with sweet, cold ice cream and topped with salty flakes of cheese. This dish, as well as the two before, had us licking our lips and scraping the plate for every last drop of caramel.

How good was the food? So damn fine, I sent Lovegastro, Quebecoise, Betty, Kournikova, Juliejuliehu and Divine Offering text messages raving about Francine’s and making future plans to revisit.

How indulgent was the food? I had a chemo follow-up appointment the very next day and had gained two pounds. I’m not sure whether that jump was due to fluid and inflammation or to the peppercorn glaze, but I choose to believe it was the sauce doing the heavy lifting.

The crowning glory is the value. For this level of cooking, the prices make Francine’s an easy choice any night of the week, not just for special occasions. Wines matched to each course are $6–10, and the steak frites is priced below lower than chains like The Keg and Cactus Club. Francine’s is one of the best restaurants in Calgary right now, and I’m looking forward to my next visit. Go, you won’t regret it!

Restaurants · Seafood · Steakhouse

Exchange – Praise beef at Eau Claire Athletic Club

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Last Sunday, Chew Steel and I invited Boss Lady, G-Mah and Bobbino to dinner at the Exchange, located in Calgary’s Eau Claire neighbourhood. This visit was our fifth time there and hands-down the best. I even caught sight of the head chef this time, Eric Um! I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that he trained with Duncan Ly, which is a great endorsement. Let’s cue up Mystical Magical while I relive our evening.

The last time we visited, we ordered the Alberta Beef Burger ($22) and the Pasta Garlic and Olive Oil Tagliatelle ($22). The burger was sumptuous, two smash-style beef patties with crispy edges and deep, meaty flavour. Each bite was hot and juicy, with melted cheese cascading over the patties. The thick-cut red tomato was perfectly ripe. The brioche bun was light and sweet. The fries impressed too, chunky, crispy, with a soft mealy center. The burger and fries combo is a winner. I would get this again.

The tagliatelle was a treat. The noodles had that unmistakable homemade texture, less slick than dried pasta, a little puffy, with a firm, toothsome bite. The sauce was simple and elegant, lightly dressed with garlic, olive oil, and what I thought was lemon juice. The portion was so generous that I shared a quarter of it with Chew Steel.

When we revisited with our family, I convinced my mom to go for the steak. Being from B.C., she’s always had a bit of a hyped interest in Alberta beef. She thought the ribeye would be too big for her, so she chose the Steak Sandwich ($27). Holy smokes, this was hands down the best steak sandwich I’ve ever had. Superior than Hy’s, better than Caesars, my benchmarks.

Cooked perfectly to medium, each slice of steak was pink, juicy, and tender. The focaccia was light, its crisp edge a perfect contrast to the buttery softness of the steak. The sauce, a mix of lemon aioli, roasted garlic, butter, and watercress, sealed the deal. This was the clear winner of the night. I’d order it again in a heartbeat.

Chew Steel and G-Mah ordered the special of the week, Corn Pie with Aji Amarillo & Prawns ($35). The shrimp was perfectly cooked, soft but with a snap to it. The sauce was delicious, well-balanced, rich, and had a hint of kick to it. The corn pie was soft with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. I would get this again.

Bobbino ordered the Roast Pork Coppa ($33), which I’ve written about previously. I ordered a small bowl of chilli beef soup ($8) as my appetite was lacking. The chilli was comforting and well-seasoned. The addition of the pea shoots added a fresh crunch. The soups are a great option if you’re looking for something soothing and nourishing.

To date, my favourites are the steak sandwich, cheeseburger, pork belly sandwich and the carrot soup. The manager mentioned that new dishes and special dinners are on the horizon. That’s excellent news, as I’m looking forward to tasting what Chef Eric Um dreams up.