Metrovino Aperitivo: Fresh Look at Lambrusco

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Last Tuesday, Divine Offering, Québécoise, and I attended Aperitivo at Metrovino ($15), a casual tasting featuring Alessio Altariva of Fattoria Moretto. The event sold out quickly, which came as no surprise. Let’s listen to “Come On-a My House” for this post.

The tasting offered a very different picture of Lambrusco from the sweet, fizzy, mass-produced wine many people know. Alessio’s family makes small-batch Lambrusco from organically farmed grapes grown on just under 11 hectares, with a focus on Grasparossa, a variety native to Castelvetro in Emilia-Romagna.

Divine Offering and I arrived five minutes early and spotted Richard Harvey, one of Metrovino’s founders. He recognized us, too, and warmly welcomed us in. After lurking in the aisles trying to spot wines from the previous tasting we attended, we moseyed over to Eva Hudson’s station, where she was carving three different ages of Parmigiano-Reggiano and serving them with fresh, crusty bread. Nearby, plates of cheese and charcuterie were laid out.

Over the course of the tasting, we moved between Eva and Richard to sample and repeatedly revisit the winery’s flagship Lambruscos, Tasso ($35) and Semprebon ($35).

As Richard poured, he called Lambrusco “the most Italian wine”, soulful, friendly and distinctive, with countless regional foods to pair with it. The wine’s soft bubbles refresh the palate between rich, salty bites. The region where Lambrusco is made, Emilia-Romagna, also gives us Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma as natural companions for the wine.

The Lambruscos I had tried before this tasting reminded me more of sangria. Fattoria Moretto’s versions were different. They had the character of red wine but with a bright, juicy freshness. The gentle bubbles made each sip refreshing without stealing the show.

Tasso was the drier of the two, with a little more structure, while Semprebon was softer, fruitier, and a bit sweeter. Eva told us customers are almost evenly divided between them.

I was particularly interested in Québécoise’s verdict. Earlier this month, she had taken a sip of Cirelli’s “Orange,” pointed to the grapes we were eating and declared, matter-of-factly, “It tastes just like these.”

She preferred Tasso, while Divine Offering leaned toward Semprebon. I changed my mind with nearly every taste before eventually settling on four bottles of Tasso and two of Semprebon. Whether that was my own decision or Québécoise’s influence is still up for debate.

Throughout the evening, I noticed people stopping to chat with Alessio. Meanwhile, the three of us stood off to the side asking one another, ‘Do you think that’s the winemaker?’ then quickly looking in the opposite direction. We were fairly certain it was. However, agreeing that it must be Alessio seemed much easier than walking over and saying hello. It was like high school all over again.

I’m leading a member-led wine tasting at Eau Claire Athletic Club this month, and these Lambruscos will be among the bottles I bring. They’re an excellent conversation wine, easy to share and pair with cheese and charcuterie, yet different enough to challenge what guests think they know about Lambrusco. If their reactions are anything like mine, I suspect a few will be bringing a bottle from Fattoria Moretto to their next party. Hitting the Sauce gives Metrovino’s Aperitivo tasting two phat thumbs up.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Wine tasting

Metrovino Burg & Beaujo Wine Tasting with Baptiste Burrier

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Last week, I attended my very first Metrovino event. Their events sell out so fast that by the time I learn about the tasting, it’s usually sold out. My luck seems to be changing because I finally managed to snag tickets to their 30th-anniversary celebration, Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier ($65). Let’s listen to Love You Madly for this post.

Metrovino marked its 30th anniversary alongside its longstanding relationship with the family behind Château de Beauregard. For decades, its wines occupied a significant place on Metrovino’s shelves. Helping celebrate the occasion was Baptiste Burrier of Château de Beauregard, whose family has cultivated vineyards in southern Burgundy for 17 generations. I wanted to speak with Baptiste, but I didn’t know what to say to a 17th-generation winemaker.

Divine Offering and I were greeted by Isaiah, who explained the structure of the standup event, pointing to three stations and a bodaciously loaded cheese station. He mentioned that Richard would be at the back station showcasing all the wines.

Curiously, I noticed that throughout the evening, whenever someone mentioned Richard’s name, their intonation gave special emphasis. And throughout the evening, everyone seemed to defer to him. Richard, as I later discovered, is one of the founders of Metrovino.

This was also my first time in the store. It’s larger than it appears from the outside, with high ceilings. There are so many aisles, it felt like a corn maze, but with wine. Throughout the evening, Divine Offering and I had fun playing peek-a-boo.

There were 13 wines to try throughout the evening. We moseyed over to the white wine station. I spoke to Sarah, and she explained that Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly was aged in previously used oak barrels, which adds texture and softness without the pronounced oak flavours of new barrels. The result is a wine that feels richer and fresher.

When I tried wine #4, Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers, a new wine term entered my vocabulary: appellation. An appellation is a legally defined wine-growing area with rules on how the wine is made. The Burrier family owns vineyards in several appellations.

At the next table, I recognized Al Drinkle, the aptly named partner at Metrovino. I’ve been a big fan of his essays ever since I stumbled on his article, The Price of Chinese Food.

In his section, I tried #6, the 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra. Al called this wine a good chugger. I enjoyed how the wine danced on my tongue. I bought a bottle.

Al described #7, the La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” as a mindblowing sipping wine. He likened the wine’s simplicity and drinkability to a good pizza, contrasting it to the layered complexity of a Michelin-starred dish.

I finally met Richard when I sampled #9, the Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch. This was one of Richard’s favourite wines, as was mine. I found it a touch sweet and really fun to drink. I couldn’t leave without two bottles.

Eva poured me a taste from what appeared to be a double magnum of #10, the Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles. This wine was juicy and pleasurable to sip. I would have bought a bottle if they had any in stock.

After this tasting, Richard stepped away to make a speech. The room was so packed that I couldn’t see him from the back. All I could make out was that he was perched high above the crowd, possibly standing on a ladder or table.

Richard spoke about the honour of having Baptiste Burrier attend, Metrovino’s longstanding relationship with the Burrier family, and his admiration for Château de Beauregard. I noticed the way the audience looked up at him. There was a genuine sense of respect and affection. It reminded me, at least in my imagination, of students looking toward Professor Dumbledore in the book series, Harry Potter.

A staff member then encouraged everyone to grab something to eat, stay hydrated between wines, and, if needed, let them arrange a safe ride home.

When Richard returned to his station, I tried #12 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay. It was so gulpable, I brought home two bottles. He shared an interesting perspective on this wine and Beaujolais in general.

Beaujolais is often enjoyed young for its fresh, fun and juicy qualities. However, he pointed out that Beaujolais from recognized, high-quality wine-growing areas, such as this Juliénas, can also benefit from aging.

Juliénas is an appellation known for producing wines with greater depth and aging potential. He noted that as the wine ages, those fruity notes give way to more savoury flavours. By drinking Beaujolais only when it’s young, you’re missing out on another side of what it has to offer.

If this was my introduction to Metrovino tastings, I can already tell it won’t be my last. I’ll be back.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier Tasting

Here is the complete line-up and the prices offered, and the 15% discount offered that evening. An asterisk (*) denotes the wines I purchased.

1) 2024 La Rochette Macon-Milly Lamartine Montagne de Cra ($41 → $34.85)

2) 2022 Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly ($44 → $37)

3) 2023 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé ($60 → $51)

4) 2023 Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers ($63 → $53.55)

5) 2022 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Vers Cras ($85 → $72.25)

*6) 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra ($43 → $36.55)

7) 2023 La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” ($31 → $26.35)

8) 2024 Joseph Burrier Saint-Amour Côte de Besset ($45 → $38.25)

**9) 2023 Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch ($41 → $34.85)

10) 2023 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles (N/A)

11) 2021 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent La Salomine ($63 → $53.55)

**12) 2022 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay ($42 → $35.70)

*13) 2019 Beauregard Fleurie Colonie de Rochegres ($46 → $39.10)

Tenuta I Collazzi Wine Tasting at Eau Claire Athletic Club

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It doesn’t take much to convince me to attend a wine tasting. So when food-and-beverage manager Robert Jewell emailed members about a new wine club at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, I clicked yes. For this post, let’s listen to Via con me.

For our first official tasting ($25), Luigi Perri and Bernard Pearson, co-owners of First Choice Cellars, introduced us to the wines of Tenuta I Collazzi, a historic Tuscan estate near Florence, owned by the Marchi family since 1933. At the heart of the property stands Villa I Collazzi, a Renaissance villa said to have hosted notable guests over the years, including King Charles III and Diana, Princess of Wales.

Art lovers may recognize another connection. The villa’s design is attributed to Michelangelo Buonarroti, the Renaissance master behind David and the Sistine Chapel ceiling. The estate produces a range of Tuscan wines under the Collazzi label, which was the focus of the evening’s tasting.

Wine 1: Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana

The first wine we tried was Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana. Luigi described “pineapple, minerality, and soft acidity,” stating it was a “very pleasant, crisp and clean white wine.” Members can purchase this wine through Robert for $28.

‘Toscana’ means the wine was produced in Tuscany. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a classification that identifies where a wine comes from and offers winemakers more flexibility than some of Italy’s stricter wine rules, including Tuscany’s. Many of Tuscany’s famous Super Tuscans are wines that broke with tradition and are labelled IGT because they blend Sangiovese with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

Wine 2: Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G.

The second wine we tried was the Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. The Bastioni was fuller in flavour, due to the addition of Merlot. Luigi detected plum, blackberry, and vanilla, with some soft acidity. Chew Steel tasted sour cherries. This wine retails for around $30. The wine is available to members through Robert for $27.

D.O.C.G. stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, which is Italy’s highest traditional wine designation. It indicates that a wine comes from a specific region and has met strict regulations governing production, origin, and quality before being released for sale.

Wine 3: Liberta (2022)

I enjoyed the third wine, the Liberta (2022), which Luigi called a baby Super Tuscan. The wine is aged in brand-new oak barrels. He described dark, intense berry notes, vanilla, soft tannins and acidity. This wine was Chew Steel’s favourite of the evening. Of the first three wines, this is the one I’d pick.

Luigi explained that acidity in wine is good when eating because it makes you salivate, which opens your taste buds so you taste more. I found Liberta smooth and easy to sip. No surprise, this wine is a hot seller by the glass at restaurants. Expect to pay between $30 and $37 retail. Robert is offering Liberta to members for $27. Bernard noted that in the United States, the retail cost is $50 US. For the ballers out there, you can buy this baby in a double magnum, which is a four-litre bottle ($250), for your next dinner party, through Robert.

Wine 4: Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021)

Ding, ding, ding! The last wine was my favourite, the Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021). Collazzi Toscana is made entirely from Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. There is no Sangiovese. Silky and beautifully balanced, this is the wine I’d buy by the case.

Luigi described this wine as having a massive body and a little bitterness, like biting into a grape seed. Bernard mentioned that most of the Collazzi Toscana ends up in Switzerland due to the demand for the wine. Expect to pay $80 or more per bottle. Through the wine club, members can purchase Collazzi Toscana for $60.

For anyone looking to stock their cellar, Luigi and Bernie have extended a special offer to members. Purchase five cases of Bastioni, Liberta, or Collazzi through Robert, and they’ll include a complimentary 3L bottle of Liberta, which is the equivalent of four standard bottles of wine.

I certainly don’t need five cases myself, but I’d happily go in on a group order with a few friends. Then we’d have the perfect excuse to crack open a double magnum and celebrate.

Upcoming event: 1996 First Growth Bordeaux

I learned a lot during the tasting. The most practical takeaway was Luigi’s advice to open the wines about 45 minutes before serving to allow them to breathe and fully express themselves. The most expensive lesson is that Eau Claire Athletic Club is co-hosting a tasting of 1996 First Growth Bordeaux.

For those of us who are new to the wine world, ‘First Growth’ doesn’t refer to how grapes grow. The term comes from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, which ranks Bordeaux’s top estates into different tiers. First Growth is the highest rank, reserved for a handful of wineries that have maintained their prestige for more than 170 years.

1996 First Growth Bordeaux Tasting

The lineup includes all five First Growth estates: Château Haut-Brion ($1,300), Château Lafite Rothschild ($2,000), Château Latour ($1,600), Château Margaux ($1,700), and Château Mouton Rothschild ($1,500). These wines are being offered at prices well below what you would typically pay on today’s market, assuming you can find them.

Luigi and Bernard explained that opportunities like this are uncommon. Beyond their rarity, these wines are among the most celebrated bottles in the world from one of Bordeaux’s great vintages. Few people ever get the opportunity to taste all five First Growths side by side, let alone from the same celebrated vintage.

Contact

The event is open to both members and guests. If you’re interested in attending or learning more, feel free to reach out through my blog, and I’d be happy to point you in the right direction.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Bars/Lounges · Wine tasting

Juice Imports at Unfiltered Wine Bar: Testalonga, Jochen Beurer, and Cirelli

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I saw on Instagram that Mark Couillard from Juice Imports was showcasing three wines from their portfolio at Unfiltered Wine Bar. I immediately texted Divine Offering to see if she wanted to go. Lucky for me, she’s always game for my pour decisions. Let’s listen to Passin Me By for this post.

I arrived early. Too tired to walk or shop, I figured I would get a glass of wine and do a little reading. At the door, I was welcomed by one of the owners, Haafiz Hasham, who introduced himself. His partner and wife, Nina, was at the bar.

I ordered a glass of La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova ($13 HH, Reg $17), which was on happy hour. The rosé was pleasing, light, a tiny bit tart, with a finish that left no aftertaste. Haafiz pointed to the notes of tangerine and said it tasted like peach iced tea.

When Divine Offering arrived, we ordered Mark’s wine flights ($32), which consisted of 3 oz pours of Testalonga ‘Keep on Punching’ (Swartland, South Africa), Cirellli ‘Orange’ (Abruzzo, Italy) and Jochen Beurer ‘A Nice Red Wine’ (Wurttemberg, Germany). Mark walked us through each tasting.

Testalonga is one of Juice Imports’ longest-running producers. Mark described the environment at Testalonga’s farm as dry, arid, and desert-like. He mentioned that the chenin blanc was whole-cluster pressed and fermented in stainless steel, which imparted freshness and minerality to the wine. Mark noted the soft fruitiness and characteristics of green apple, white peach, and chamomile. The wine smelled like juicy fruit to me.

The second wine, Cirelli’s ‘Orange’, opened with a beautiful floral fragrance. Divine Offering said it smelled like orange blossom. Mark’s tasting notes were orange blossom, dried apricot, orange marmalade and almond. He mentioned ‘Orange’ flies off the shelves. I liked that it felt distinctive without being difficult to drink. Divine Offering said it was the most approachable wine of the evening.

I asked Mark who was carrying Circelli. He paused to think and confirmed Vine Arts, which is only five blocks away from Unfiltered Wine Bar. I called the store immediately and found out there were just five bottles left at $37 each. I asked them to hold the remaining for us, which we picked up after the tasting.

The last wine, Jochen Beurer’s ‘A Nice Red Wine,’ was a little dry yet surprisingly punchy. Mark pointed out that the pale colour didn’t match the wine’s intensity. The tasting notes were ‘tart cherry, raspberry, strawberry, earthy’. At $18 a glass and $81 a bottle, this was Beurer’s entry-level wine. That was the moment I realized their top bottles likely belong to a different tax bracket than mine. Mark was especially excited that the label artwork was created by Calgary artist Katie Green. I’m a fan of her work, having seen her murals around Calgary’s East Village.

It was a fun evening. I’m glad Unfiltered Wine Bar hosts these events with Juice Imports. It gives me the opportunity to try new wines and learn a little more about Juice Imports’ portfolio.

Restaurants · Wine tasting

Vine Arts Wine Tasting Calgary: Franz Weninger (Juice Imports) Review

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My friends Lululemon, Divine Offering, Kournikova, and 47 attended Juice Import’s special event ($60) with Franz Weninger, a winemaker from Austria and Hungary. We arrived at Vine Arts in Calgary’s Beltline District and were welcomed by Erik Mercier and Mark Couillard with a glass of Weinland White. Before I forget, let’s play a little music to go along with this post, Hospital by Sightlines.

We sat at the front of the tasting table closest to Franz. A semicircle of red wines, in varying red jewel hues, surrounded each of us. As we settled in, we nibbled on our cheese-and-meat platter from Peasant Cheese. Lululemon offered me her meat because she’s a vegetarian, and 47 later asked me if I wanted her tomato because she wryly noticed that I enjoyed mine a little too much. I was happy to be the recipient of their charity castoffs. I could taste the warmth of the sun in the sweet tomato. Peasant Cheese uses the best produce on its boards.

Franz wineries were built on his father’s organic farm by converting the estate to biodynamic farming, a practice that treats the farm as a self-sustaining ecosystem to enhance soil and plant well-being. I usually find wine knowledge dry, but he has a Harry Potter way of talking about biodynamics that, well, is lumos!

Right off the bat, he stated he doesn’t like being asked about his favourite wines or to describe a wine’s characteristics. He believes that, as everyone has different tastes, it should be they who describe their experiences, not him. Franz identifies first and foremost as a farmer. He’d rather focus on making good wine, and for him, that begins with the land and seeking balance.

The first wine we sampled was the Rosza Petsovits (Vine Arts discount: $31.48), a blend of Syrah, Blaufrankisch and Merlot. The vineyard was his grandmother’s. She was born in 1921, and he recalled she grew vegetables on the land. The plot was part of Hungary until it became Austria due to regional politics.

I felt energized after sipping this wine. There was a charge to it. I caught Kournikova and 47 looking at each other and nodding in approval. I made a mental note to snag a couple of bottles. I could see myself sipping on this on my patio in the summer.

The next wine, the Balf Kékfrankos (Vine Arts discount: $32.09), caught me off guard. One sip and it opened into something piney, almost forest-like. The Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir grapes are grown on limestone in Austria, and the Syrah is grown in Hungary. The grapes are grown at a lower altitude in warmer conditions than in the next wine, the Hochaker Blaufrankisch. I bought a bottle.

We compared the Balf to the Hochacker Blaufrankish, which is grown at a higher altitude with colder temperatures, producing a darker wine with more power. I found this wine acidic and thought it paired well with the hard cheese.

The Kirchholz Blaufrankisch (Vine Arts discount: $49.05) was so good, I had to buy a bottle. I found this wine super smooth. We learned it comes from a single vineyard from one of his most prized sites, land once owned by the Church. The 50- to 80-year-old vines grow on stony topsoil.

My favourite bottle was the Saybritz Blaufrankisch (Vine Arts discount: $67.04). I can’t describe the flavour, but I can feel the love in this wine. The land once belonged to Franz’s great-aunt in a northern part of Austria, who grew fruit and vegetables. The 55-year-old vines lie on blue-green slate, under a topsoil of calcareous clay. The plot is so tiny, no machine works the land, and it’s even too small for a horse. I bought a bottle for my friends and me to enjoy.

Next up was the Steiner Kékfrankos. This one felt different right away, impressive and silky. Franz spoke about the long process of learning how to draw the best from his land. Limestone, concrete, and wood all play their part, but for him the real question is where to draw the line between intervention and letting the land speak.

The last wine was the Kalkofen Blaufrankisch. This wine really woke up my taste buds. I found it heavy yet smooth. Kournikova said she could taste smokiness.

Erik peeked in as we were wrapping up. I asked if any of Franz’s wines were available, as I know they’re often sold out. He paused, then said there were only a few bottles of each, though we could order more through Vine Arts.

I immediately reached over and grabbed four from Franz’s tasting display. Someone in the back called out that his credit card was ready too, and it wasn’t fair that I took them all. I pointed him to the shop floor and said there were more there. I don’t go to Juice Imports tastings to make friends. I bring my own.

I was chatting with Jesse, the owner of Vine Arts, and asked if anything else was tucked away. He found one more Rosza Petsovits. Forty-seven clearly wanted it, and since I already had two, I passed it over. Lululemon commended my generosity. I agreed. My good deed for the day was accomplished.

This wine tasting was bittersweet because I had plans to visit Austria with Juice Imports in 2026 with Lululemon and Divine Offering. Unfortunately, our trip was cancelled due to unforeseen obstacles. Thank you, Franz and Juice Imports, for bringing that Austrian / Hungarian magic to Calgary! Hitting the Sauce gives Franz Weninger and his land two phat thumbs up.

Want more wine tastings? I keep a running list of Calgary wine tastings and events.