After 16 years in Calgary, Banff remains my favourite place to disappear for a weekend. Last Halloween, Divine Offering and I had planned a stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs, but I had to cancel at the last minute. We finally made it out in late April. For this travel post, let’s listen to I Ain’t Worried by OneRepublic.

My sister-in-law suggested booking Fairmont Gold, the hotel-within-a-hotel upgrade. It gives you access to a dedicated lounge for breakfast, snacks, and evening canapés. There’s also a separate entrance and a team to help you with your stay. 

With shoulder-season pricing, rooms were at their lowest of the year. A double queen-size Gold room was around $700 (Alberta resident rate) while a basic non-Gold room hovered around $400. In peak season, those rates easily double. Daily charges also included the Resort Experience Fee ($65), the Room Tourism Fee ($15.29), valet parking ($60), and the Alberta Tourism Levy ($31.18).

The day before we left, a windstorm rolled into Calgary. The snow hadn’t started up yet, so we headed out early to stay ahead of it. If you’re driving to Banff, remember to pick up a Banff Pass ($49 for 2 days). You’ll need a pass even if your car stays parked at the hotel.

We arrived super early. The Fairmont Gold concierge team, Georgine and Katie, welcomed us and assured us they’d handle the luggage. Katie promised to text once the room was ready. When Georgine asked about our plans for the morning, I admitted I needed a moment to regroup before heading into town. She pointed us toward the Gold lounge and encouraged us to settle in with a bite to eat.

The Gold lounge is larger than I expected. A central kitchen anchors a table full of hot breakfast items. Separate stations offer coffee, tea, smoothies, and cold drinks. Breakfast spread across the central table includes eggs benny, hash browns, scrambled eggs, sausages, yogurt, oatmeal, bacon, baked goods, fruit, and smoked salmon. On the other side of the reception area, there’s an honour bar and more rooms to relax.

Just as we were about to leave, Katie texted to let us know they’d prioritized our room so I could rest before heading into town. She’d also moved us to a quieter section of the hotel for a better night’s sleep. It was a thoughtful touch that set the tone for the rest of the weekend.

Part of the appeal of staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs is getting to explore the historic castle itself. We started our morning with a wilderness walk alongside Lily, the hotel dog. She led us to Bow Falls, occasionally glancing back while I rested on a bench trying to catch my breath. I’ve never felt so judged by a dog. She was clearly unimpressed with my pace. After returning Lily, we headed into town for lunch.

I wanted to try Yama Onigiri, a small Japanese cafe. There are only two tables and a few stools to eat in. The majority of customers take out. I ordered the soup and onigiri combo ($14.99), which included a premium pork miso, a Hokkaido scallop onigiri, and a strawberry matcha with oat milk ($7.80). Divine Offering ordered the classic tuna onigiri ($7.50) and a mochi matcha tiramisu ($6.50). 

The strawberry matcha is a must-order. The cool, jelly-like strawberry compote tasted like fresh, sweet strawberries. The matcha oat milk was grassy, clean and creamy. How good was this strawberry matcha? Better than a glass of wine. Coming from me, that’s high praise indeed.

The miso soup was served steaming hot. Though not large, it’s a hearty bowl, generously filled with firm white onions, bright orange carrots, and slices of stewed pork. I would order the soup again.

The warm rice in the Hokkaido scallop onigiri was perfectly chewy and buttery. The filling of dried scallops and bonito flakes was salty and deeply savoury. Despite its baseball size, I was still hungry and ordered a second one. I should have ordered a dessert instead. The rice in the second onigiri was noticeably mushier. 

We spent the walk back browsing the shops along Banff Avenue, picking up small gifts for my parents, in-laws, nieces, and nephews. By the time we got back to the hotel, I was ready for a nap.

Our room was comfortable and, while not especially large, still felt spacious enough. I accidentally turned on the secondary shower spray and flooded part of the bathroom floor. One text from the Fairmont Gold team solved the problem almost immediately. Adam sent up a technician right away, and by the time we returned, the bathroom was spotless, stocked with fresh towels, and set up with a new bath mat.

That evening, we joined a history tour of the hotel led by Ben, a British expat. He walked us through the grand staircases, ballroom, and other historic spaces while explaining the hotel’s Scottish-inspired architecture. One of the most interesting parts of the tour was learning about the Canadian Pacific Railway and how the hotel was originally built to lure wealthy travellers west. There’s so much history tucked into the Banff Springs, and I liked that the hotel offered so many ways to experience it. 

After our tour, we stopped by the Gold lounge for evening canapés. The spread included chicken wings, steak bites, salads, cheeses, and vegetables. The next evening featured pork ribs, shrimp skewers, and perogies with all the fixings. I also noticed my pinot noir ($14) from the honour bar cost two dollars less than the same glass at Rundle Bar, where we headed later for cocktails.

On Saturday, we signed up for a cocktail class ($60) on the second floor of Rundle Bar, led by Vincente. He taught us how to make three cocktails and shared practical techniques we could realistically use at home. At the end of the class, we were encouraged to sit back and finish our drinks beside the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Bow Valley and Mount Rundle. The views alone made the experience feel worth it.

Later that evening, we walked down the hill to Fire & Falls: Stories Around the Campfire, held outside the Waldhaus Pub. What a highlight. Ben was our guide again. While he took the other guests on a short wildlife walk, I stayed behind by the fire, wrapped in the smell of smoke, heat and cold mountain air. That’s when I spoke with Shawayne Dunston, an author and poet who kept me company beside the flames. At one point, he improvised a poem on the spot before recommending a stack of books he thought I’d enjoy reading.

When the group returned, we gathered around the crackling fire to roast marshmallows while Ben shared stories about wildlife in Banff. Long after the others drifted off for the evening, Divine Offering and I stayed behind beside the glowing embers and ended up in conversation with the CEO of Top Dish Inc. We had an interesting discussion on data, consumer behaviour, and customer service.

No stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs is complete without a visit to the hotel spa’s mineral pools ($125 for three hours). I could have booked a massage ($420 for 90 minutes), which would have included access to the pools, but since I already had one scheduled for the following Monday, I settled on the day pass instead.

Divine Offering and I spent Sunday morning moving between the indoor mineral pool, outdoor heated pool, whirlpools, sauna, and steam room. We finished the experience in the spa lounge, sipping tea and enjoying another sweeping view of the mountains. By the time we checked out, we both felt relaxed.

During the off-season, I think Fairmont Gold at the Fairmont Banff Springs is absolutely worth it. Between the lounge access, thoughtful service, and the chance to slow down and appreciate the history, architecture, and atmosphere of the iconic castle-like hotel, the experience felt restorative. A special thank you to Georgine, Katie, Adam, Ben, Shawayne, Vincente, and the rest of the Fairmont Gold team for making the weekend feel so welcoming from start to finish.

Want more travel recommendations? I keep a running collection of travel and restaurant guides organized by city.

Disclaimer: I paid for all my expenses at Fairmont Banff Springs.