Kournikova, Betty, Quebecoise and I met up at my house before dinner. We started the evening with a bottle of Roza Petsovits by Franz Weninger. Kournikova took one sip and let out a pent up sigh, declaring she enjoyed it just as much as she had at Weninger’s tasting at Vine Arts. She recalled Franz saying he doesn’t make wine for taste, but for feeling. Judging from how much we drank, I’d say we were all feeling pretty good. Let’s listen to Amour Plastique for this post.
For dinner, I suggested Park by Sidewalk Citizen. Kournikova cares about the quality of meat, and Park offers three specialty plates: Cultured Heritage Chicken ($65), Beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), and Aged Alberta AAA Beef Three Ways ($115). Betty always orders beef tartare, dessert, and pasta, all of which Park does well. Quebecoise gravitates toward vegetables, and Park offers seven options. Everyone agreed, though Kournikova reminded me we still need to try IBU next.
Our gallant server, Russ, greeted us enthusiastically and presented us with three table options. Québécoise immediately chose the side booth table and remarked that she appreciated being given a choice. I noticed Russ offering the same option to other guests as well. The right table shapes the entire experience.
Québécoise, who has a professional eye for design, admired the plywood walls for their rough beauty and unexpected complexity. She said the entire room was exceptionally well done. Coming from her, that’s high praise.
The owner came over to say hello. I recognized her from the media buzz surrounding Guy Fieri’s visit. She asked whether we were celebrating anything special. I told her we were celebrating friendship. So corny, but true.
We started with cocktails and later, a bottle of Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France ($85). We also ordered a lot of food: Shrimp ($21), Calamari ($16), Baby Kale ($18), Seared Cauliflower ($19), Parisian Gnocchi ($20), and the Aged Alberta Beef Three Ways. I wanted to try the dry-aged lamb, but no one else was interested. Kournikova told Betty to take the pictures before I could even ask. She knows me too well. Though I suspect her thoughtfulness had more to do with avoiding photography duties herself. I don’t blame her. That’s why I outsource.
I was surprised by how much I liked the baby kale salad. The kale was small, delicate, and tender. Fat dark-red sour cherries burst with juice, while the pecans added a delicate crunch. I didn’t find the figs overly sweet, and the ricotta brought balance and creaminess to the dish. I would order this again.
The fan favourite was the shrimp. I loved the red sauce and the polenta underneath, slicked with some sort of oil. I usually don’t like polenta, but Park’s version was damn fine. The shrimp were massive, crunchy, seasoned with guanciale, chili, and garlic.
I was most interested in trying the calamari. Park’s version was different from what I’m accustomed. I noticed heat from the berbere, which is an East African spice blend commonly used in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking. The ringlets and curly pieces of squid lay over a pretty backdrop of white labneh and cucumbers.
Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise all declared the cauliflower their favourite vegetable dish of the night. The plate featured at least half a dozen large florets, seasoned with brown butter, harissa, labneh, and sesame. Despite the deep sear, the cauliflower retained its shape and texture. While I enjoyed it, I was even more impressed by the fried Brussels sprouts.
The Brussels sprouts were firm and slightly sweet from the sauce. The pork cheeks were crispy, and when you bit into one, you’d get a hot burst of rich, rendered pork fat. My friends all noticed the luscious, herbaceous green sauce coating the sprouts. I would order this again.
I thought the steak was even better than the last time I tried the aged Alberta AAA beef three-ways. I liked the contrast between the soft, chewy centre of the 21-day dry-aged striploin and the luscious cap of fat along the edge. The 45-day tallow-aged short rib seemed especially tender and rich. Québécoise liked the spice on the steak, along with the onions, which were still crunchy and lightly pickled.
By the end of the meal, we still had four large pieces of steak, some gnocchi, and a quarter of the Brussels sprouts left. Kournikova observed that we had over-ordered, and everyone insisted I take the leftovers home.
Chef Stefan Gusztak came by near the end of the meal to say hello. We follow each other on Instagram, and I guess he recognized me, something that never happens to me. He also surprised us with dessert, a thoughtful gesture that was entirely unnecessary but very much appreciated. Unfortunately, the photo I took does not do it justice.
Kournikova noted that the house-made Turtles ice cream ($10) wasn’t as dense as she expected. Instead, it was lighter, colder, and creamier. My eyes nearly rolled into the back of my head as it melted across my tongue. The daily doughnut ($7) was such a wholesome treat, reminding me of elementary school hot-dog-and-doughnut day, except infinitely better. The cool custard filling wasn’t overly sweet, balanced by the sweeter chocolate layer on top. Without question, it was the dough that made it so special. It was light and clean tasting, without any oily heaviness.
This was my second visit, and I stand by what I wrote in my earlier post. Park by Sidewalk Citizen is where I’d take out-of-town guests to show off Alberta beef. The beautiful solarium matches the calibre of the cooking, while the service and hospitality are bar none. Hitting the Sauce gives Park by Sidewalk Citizen two phat thumbs up.
Want more dinner spots worth dressing up for? I keep a running list of Calgary’s best date night restaurants.
Hitting the Sauce 