Park By Sidewalk Citizen: Serious Cooking in a Beautiful Room

Kournikova, Betty, Québécoise and I met up at my house before dinner. We started the evening with a bottle of Roza Petsovits by Franz Weninger. Kournikova took one sip and let out a pent up sigh, declaring she enjoyed it just as much as she had at Weninger’s tasting at Vine Arts. She recalled Franz saying he doesn’t make wine for taste, but for feeling. Judging from how much we drank, I’d say we were all feeling pretty good. Let’s listen to Amour Plastique for this post.

For dinner, I suggested Park by Sidewalk Citizen. Kournikova cares about the quality of meat, and Park offers three specialty plates: Cultured Heritage Chicken ($65), Beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), and Aged Alberta AAA Beef Three Ways ($115). Betty always orders beef tartare, dessert, and pasta, all of which Park does well. Québécoise gravitates toward vegetables, and Park offers seven options. Everyone agreed, though Kournikova reminded me we still need to try IBU next.

Our gallant server, Russ, greeted us enthusiastically and presented us with three table options. Québécoise immediately chose the side booth table and remarked that she appreciated being given a choice. I noticed Russ offering the same option to other guests as well. The right table shapes the entire experience.

Québécoise, who has a professional eye for design, admired the plywood walls for their rough beauty and unexpected complexity. She said the entire room was exceptionally well done. Coming from her, that’s high praise.

The owner came over to say hello. I recognized her from the media buzz surrounding Guy Fieri’s visit. She asked whether we were celebrating anything special. I told her we were celebrating friendship. So corny, but true.

We started with cocktails and later, a bottle of Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France ($85). We also ordered a lot of food: Shrimp ($21), Calamari ($16), Baby Kale ($18), Seared Cauliflower ($19), Parisian Gnocchi ($20), and the Aged Alberta Beef Three Ways. I wanted to try the dry-aged lamb, but no one else was interested. Kournikova told Betty to take the pictures before I could even ask. She knows me too well. Though I suspect her thoughtfulness had more to do with avoiding photography duties herself. I don’t blame her. That’s why I outsource.

I was surprised by how much I liked the baby kale salad. The kale was small, delicate, and tender. Fat dark-red sour cherries burst with juice, while the pecans added a delicate crunch. I didn’t find the figs overly sweet, and the ricotta brought balance and creaminess to the dish. I would order this again.

The fan favourite was the shrimp. I loved the red sauce and the polenta underneath, slick with some sort of oil. I usually don’t like polenta, but Park’s version was damn fine. The shrimp were massive, crunchy, seasoned with guanciale, chili, and garlic.

I was most interested in trying the calamari. Park’s version was different from what I’m accustomed. I noticed heat from the berbere, which is an East African spice blend commonly used in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking. The ringlets and curly pieces of squid lay over a pretty backdrop of white labneh and cucumbers.

Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise all declared the cauliflower their favourite vegetable dish of the night. The plate featured at least half a dozen large florets, seasoned with brown butter, harissa, labneh, and sesame. Despite the deep sear, the cauliflower retained its shape and texture. While I enjoyed it, I was even more impressed by the fried Brussels sprouts.

The Brussels sprouts were firm and slightly sweet from the sauce. The pork cheeks were crispy, and when you bit into one, you’d get a hot burst of rich, rendered pork fat. My friends all noticed the luscious, herbaceous green sauce coating the sprouts. I would order this again.

I thought the steak was even better than the last time I tried the aged Alberta AAA beef three-ways. I liked the contrast between the soft, chewy centre of the 21-day dry-aged striploin and the luscious cap of fat along the edge. The 45-day tallow-aged short rib seemed especially tender and rich. Québécoise enjoyed the spice on the steak, along with the onions, which were still crunchy and lightly pickled.

By the end of the meal, we still had four large pieces of steak, some gnocchi, and a quarter of the Brussels sprouts left. Kournikova observed that we had over-ordered, and everyone insisted I take the leftovers home.

Chef Stefan Gusztak came by near the end of the meal to say hello. We follow each other on Instagram, and I guess he recognized me, something that never happens to me. He also surprised us with dessert, a thoughtful gesture that was entirely unnecessary but very much appreciated. Unfortunately, the photo I took does not do it justice.

Kournikova noted that the house-made Turtles ice cream ($10) wasn’t as dense as she expected. Instead, it was lighter, colder, and creamier. My eyes nearly rolled into the back of my head as it melted across my tongue. The daily doughnut ($7) was such a wholesome treat, reminding me of elementary school hot-dog-and-doughnut day, except infinitely better. The cool custard filling wasn’t overly sweet, balanced by the sweeter chocolate layer on top. Without question, it was the dough that made it so special. It was light and clean tasting, without any oily heaviness.

This was my second visit, and I stand by what I wrote in my earlier post. Park by Sidewalk Citizen is where I’d take out-of-town guests to show off Alberta beef. The beautiful solarium matches the calibre of the cooking, while the service and hospitality are bar none. Hitting the Sauce gives Park by Sidewalk Citizen two phat thumbs up.

Want more dinner spots worth dressing up for? I keep a running list of Calgary’s best date night restaurants.

Mediterranean · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Park by Sidewalk Citizen: One of Calgary’s best meals

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Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order at least two plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how dry-aging and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for an upscale restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

This is easily one of the best restaurants in Calgary if you care about both food and room. When the cooking hits this hard and the service keeps pace, it’s hard to forget a meal like this. Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up.

Restaurants · Seafood · Steakhouse

Exchange – Praise beef at Eau Claire Athletic Club

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Last Sunday, Chew Steel and I invited Boss Lady, G-Mah and Bobbino to dinner at the Exchange, located in Calgary’s Eau Claire neighbourhood. This visit was our fifth time there and hands-down the best. I even caught sight of the head chef this time, Eric Um! I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that he trained with Duncan Ly, which is a great endorsement. Let’s cue up Mystical Magical while I relive our evening.

The last time we visited, we ordered the Alberta Beef Burger ($22) and the Pasta Garlic and Olive Oil Tagliatelle ($22). The burger was sumptuous, two smash-style beef patties with crispy edges and deep, meaty flavour. Each bite was hot and juicy, with melted cheese cascading over the patties. The thick-cut red tomato was perfectly ripe. The brioche bun was light and sweet. The fries impressed too, chunky, crispy, with a soft mealy center. The burger and fries combo is a winner. I would get this again.

The tagliatelle was a treat. The noodles had that unmistakable homemade texture, less slick than dried pasta, a little puffy, with a firm, toothsome bite. The sauce was simple and elegant, lightly dressed with garlic, olive oil, and what I thought was lemon juice. The portion was so generous that I shared a quarter of it with Chew Steel.

When we revisited with our family, I convinced my mom to go for the steak. Being from B.C., she’s always had a bit of a hyped interest in Alberta beef. She thought the ribeye would be too big for her, so she chose the Steak Sandwich ($27). Holy smokes, this was hands down the best steak sandwich I’ve ever had. Superior than Hy’s, better than Caesars, my benchmarks.

Cooked perfectly to medium, each slice of steak was pink, juicy, and tender. The focaccia was light, its crisp edge a perfect contrast to the buttery softness of the steak. The sauce, a mix of lemon aioli, roasted garlic, butter, and watercress, sealed the deal. This was the clear winner of the night. I’d order it again in a heartbeat.

Chew Steel and G-Mah ordered the special of the week, Corn Pie with Aji Amarillo & Prawns ($35). The shrimp was perfectly cooked, soft but with a snap to it. The sauce was delicious, well-balanced, rich, and had a hint of kick to it. The corn pie was soft with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. I would get this again.

Bobbino ordered the Roast Pork Coppa ($33), which I’ve written about previously. I ordered a small bowl of chilli beef soup ($8) as my appetite was lacking. The chilli was comforting and well-seasoned. The addition of the pea shoots added a fresh crunch. The soups are a great option if you’re looking for something soothing and nourishing.

To date, my favourites are the steak sandwich, cheeseburger, pork belly sandwich and the carrot soup. The manager mentioned that new dishes and special dinners are on the horizon. That’s excellent news, as I’m looking forward to tasting what Chef Eric Um dreams up.

Bars/Lounges · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Caesar’s Steakhouse: Old school steakhouse—worth it?

October 17, 2019April 14, 2026 Hitting the SauceLeave a comment

To celebrate Bobbino and G-Mah’s 50th wedding anniversary, the kids took them out to Caesar’s Steakhouse. For this post, I’m going to play “Will You Still Love Me Tomorrow” by The Shirelles.

The restaurant is an indulgent time warp to a 70’s version of the Roman Empire. The chandeliers sparkle against the glass mirrors and gold drapes. The shiny red leather seats match the bright, bold carpets. My favourite fixture in the restaurant is the chef, who with over 25 years of experience, masters his art over a fiery grill. Mad props to this dude, he is Calgary’s finest steak wizard.

Our maître d’ Joel knows his wine. If you are lucky enough to get him as your host, tell him what you are comfortable spending and he won’t steer you wrong. He helped me select two of three bottles ($110-120), all from Napa Valley. My favourite bottle was the Ridge 2016 Geyserville, as it paired best with the steaks and I enjoyed the ruby finish. Joel also picked out a Spanish wine by the glass which I enjoyed.

We all ordered the ‘Emperor’s Feast’. The feast includes caramelized onion soup with house-made beef broth and a Parmesan crouton, a mixed green salad, cheese toast and garlic bread, and a twice baked stuffed potato.

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I heard much about the famous cheese bread. The heavy dusting of cheese was dry and salty. L complained it reminded him of Kraft Parmesan. The bread was free so I didn’t care. I told him to choose the garlic bread next time.

The caramelized onion soup had a touch of sweetness to the broth. Uncle Ben enjoyed his soup more than I did.

If you order an entree, you can upgrade to a traditional Caesar salad for $9.00 per person. I watched as Joel whipped up the dressing from scratch. Holy moly, what an awesome salad. The lettuce was cold and crunchy. The sauce was garlicky and cheesy, with the brightness of fresh lemon juice and a hint of anchovy. The homemade croutons were light and added a crumbly texture. I would order this again.

I asked Joel which cut of steak was his favourite. He asked me what I cared about in a steak. I said taste. He said in that case, go for the rib-eye. I ordered the 14 ounce rib-eye ($58) so I could share my steak with L and Uncle Ben. I asked for my steak to be cooked to a medium rare, even though my boss told me to order it medium rare, but closer to rare.

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Though my steak was cooked to a perfect medium rare, the meat was still hot. Joel mentioned that their beef never hits the freezer and the meat is climatized near the grill so it doesn’t bleed on the plate. I can honestly say this was the best steak I’ve consumed in my life.

The flavour of the beef was rich, and the texture was ultra tender. Using a knife was optional. We learned from Joel that all the beef is cut in house from specially selected Sterling Silver and Prime Alberta Beef and cut to order. The top tiered beef is aged a minimum of 35 days.

Turned and G-Mah both ordered the 14 ounce rib-eye ($44). I overheard everyone said their meat was cooked to their specification. I gave about half of my steak to Uncle Ben, L and Dave. L doesn’t normally like rib-eye but he thought my steak was even better than his 14 ounce New York steak ($64). I thought all the steaks I tried were excellent. You can’t go wrong with any cut.

I enjoyed L’s New York steak. The meat was firmer and more lean than the rib-eye, but the flavour was beefier. L loved the char on the outside and said it was damn near perfection. I think there is something superior about a steak charred on an open grill.

tbone

Dave ordered the 20 ounce T-Bone steak ($64) rare. He gave me a bite and I thought his steak was yummy. He packed some of his T-bone home and gave a piece to his mother and dog. His mother told me it was still juicy when she tried it. His dog Sam apparently rolled his eyes to the back of his head in pleasure.

Uncle Ben loves a nice rack, so he ordered the Rack of Lamb ($50). The herb roasted spring lamb was tender and lean, with a mild flavour. This is one of the best lambs I’ve tried.

I called ahead of time and asked if the chef could make something special for Veggie Girl. I was informed that the restaurant offers a vegetarian appetizer and main, but there is no unique creation. I asked if the server could lie and tell her that it was made specifically for her. I got a giggle on the telephone, but when it came down to it, Veggie wasn’t lied to by Joel. Luckily, said she enjoyed every element of her meat free entree.

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For dessert, Bob and G-Mah ordered the Cherry Jubilee. Joel also brought over a complimentary panna cotta. I was in a meatcoma at this point and I was too lazy to take a picture.

Joel informed us that Caesar’s has worked with the same supplier for over four decades and as a result, they receive Alberta’s finest beef. I concur. Along with the master chef, the end product is beyond reproach. The smell, temperature, texture, and taste of the steaks is superb.

Price-wise, it is expensive but worth it. Expect to pay about $150 a person. We sat and enjoyed our meals over a three hour period. We were not rushed out and the GM even took the time to take numerous family photos by the entrance. If my father’s health permits, I’d love to bring my family to Caesar’s Steakhouse for an authentic Calgary experience.