Metrovino wrapped up its series with All-Stars: Italy ($78.75). Eva Hudson led this event, along with Isiah Santos and Szivlia Fonalka. Let’s listen to Tu vuò fà l’americano by Renato Carosone for this post.

Divine Offering was already there when I arrived. I put away my coat and bag and dove into the cheese and charcuterie. I learned that Peasant Cheese purposely selected ingredients from Italian regions to best pair with the wines. The spread also included fresh bread from Mari Bakery, olive oil, and biscuits from the Cookbook Co. The olive oil, Galantino Organic Extra Virgin, was grassy and so delectably light that I wanted to sip it.

Here’s a cool fact about Metrovino. The entire team is well-versed in all the wines from their portfolio, but each person specializes in one country. As Eva discussed the wines, we learned that she knows and has visited almost all the producers we sampled. As usual, bottles purchased that night were 15% off.

1. Ciro Picariello – 2024 Irpinia Bianco Fiano ($35, 15% discount $29.75)

The first wine we tasted was from Summonte, Avellino, owned by Ciro Picariello, his wife Rita, and daughter Emma. Eva noted that the grapes are high quality, grown high in the mountains of inland Campania. I noticed a unique tang, while Divine Offering commented that after pairing the wine with some charcuterie, there was almost an aftertaste of sweetness.

2. Ioppa – 2023 Colline Novaresi Nebbiolo ($35, 15% discount $29.75)

Next, we moved north to Ioppa, a family winery in Romagnano Sesia, in the Alto Piemonte area of northern Piedmont. It’s run by Andrea, Marco, and Luca Ioppa, the seventh generation of their family to make wine.

Eva is obsessed with Nebbiolo, and she walked us through Alto Piemonte’s troubled past. Starting in the late 1800s, phylloxera, a vine louse, wiped out the vineyards. As the region industrialized, many people left the land for stable work in textile mills and auto factories. Then the two world wars made recovery in the vineyards harder. The wine itself was light in colour, almost translucent, with a red berry flavour.

3. Colombera & Garella – 2020 Lessona Nebbiolo ($71, 15% discount $60.35)

We stayed in Alto Piemonte for the third wine, from Colombera & Garella in Masserano, a town in the province of Biella. It’s run by Giacomo Colombera and Cristiano Garella.

Eva has sold their wine at Metrovino for over ten years. She described this wine as soulful and savoury. I enjoyed the fragrance and liked how it danced on my tongue. Divine Offering noticed it tasted stronger than it looked. I recently learned that a wine’s colour isn’t a reliable guide to how it will taste. Of all the wines, this one was my favourite.

4. Castagnoli – 2021 Chianti Classico Sangiovese ($44, 15% discount $37.40)

From Piedmont, we headed south to Tuscany. Castagnoli is an organic estate in Castellina in Chianti, owned by a German family. The team is led by Tim Schefenacker, with Filippo Pratesi as winemaker, and Lucy the dog. Its vineyards sit on terraces in the hills, and according to Eva, forest and wild animals surround the estate. Metrovino carries this wine as an exclusive.

I was surprised I liked this wine, as I usually find Chianti harsh and dusty. The colour of blood, it was dark and concentrated. Divine Offering loved the heavier body. We both bought a bottle.

5. Salvatore Marino – 2021 Eloro ‘Turi’ Rosso, Nero d’Avola and Pignatello ($34, 15% discount $28.90)

The fifth wine took us to Pachino, on the southeastern tip of Sicily, where Salvatore Marino and his wife Stefania run a small winery. The wine is named “Turi,” which is the Sicilian nickname for Salvatore. Eva mentioned the family also grows wheat and makes soap and pasta.

Eva’s take on the wine: black olive, soul and precision. I noticed an indescribable scent. I found it unusual in a good way, fresh yet savoury. I bought a bottle.

6. Elvio Tintero – 2024 Moscato d’Asti ‘Sori Gramella’ ($25, 15% discount $21.25)

We finished with something sweet from Elvio Tintero, a fourth-generation family winery in Mango, in Piedmont’s Moscato d’Asti country. It’s run by Marco Tintero and his partner Cinzia. Eva recalled drinking moscato with Elvio and, as he suggested, dipping a biscuit in the wine.

I took to the lovely fragrance. I enjoyed the bubbles, though I found it quite sweet. I plan to bring this one out as a dessert pairing at my upcoming party. I made a mental note to stop by the Cookbook Co. to buy the ring-shaped yogurt and rice flour cookies, Falcone Ciambelline. They were so good that Divine Offering went back for seconds.

We had an epic night learning from Eva, Isiah and Szivlia. I also met two litigators, both new to Calgary, who were very nice. I’m not sure why that surprised me, since the two other litigators I know are just as affable. I introduced them to the German wines I discovered at All Stars: Germany and suggested they book tickets to Metrovino’s 30th anniversary party at the Lougheed House. They bought a bottle of A.J. Adam, an affordable Riesling that was a hit with Dimples. She bought one and told me her neighbours raved about it. I picked up another bottle that night too; with the discount, it came to just over $30.

I went in planning not to buy anything this time, but apart from the $71 Lessona, bottles were priced between $25 and $44, and with 15% off, that worked out to about $21 to $37. They were practically free. At least that’s what I told myself.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Metrovino turns 30 this year, and to celebrate, they poured six German all-stars wines. The ticket cost was $78.75. I went with my trusty wine pal, Divine Offering. For this post, let’s listen to Closing Time by Semisonic.

As usual, Metrovino brought a generous spread of charcuterie and cheeses. I particularly enjoyed the duck rillettes, which were deeply rich and moist, with coarse shreds of meat. We filled up our plates before heading to the tasting counter. 

Grisel & Compagnie

Usually when I arrive, I stand around awkwardly, trying not to leer wantonly at the open bottles of wine. This time, Al Drinkle, partner at Metrovino, and Szivlia Fonalka called us to the tasting table to try the first wine, 2022 Blanc de Noirs Brut ($55). Owners Niko Brandner and Rachele Crosara are the couple behind Grisel & Compagnie.

Al noted that Germans love their bubbles, and this one, made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in Bensheim, Hessische-Bergstraße, was yummy. I found it full-bodied, with lots of tight bubbles and a honeyed richness. 

Al told us this tasting centred on two of Germany’s great grapes, Pinot and Riesling, both built on high acidity. Another interesting theme that ran through the evening was climate change and how some growers are changing the way they farm because of it.

Wasenhaus

Christoph Wölber and Alex Götze are the people behind 2024 Spätburgunder ($62), a Pinot Noir from Staufen im Breisgau, Baden. The colour was light and almost translucent. Al told us colour tells you nothing about how a wine tastes. He noted its haunting aromatics. Divine Offering could taste oak. I found it ripe and chuggable. It’s unlike any other Pinot I’ve tried.

Weingut Leitz

The third wine I sampled was the Weingut Leitz 2025 Riesling Trocken ‘Eins-Zwei-Dry’ ($29, 15% off to $24.65). Based in Rüdesheim am Rhein in the Rheingau, Johannes and Antonius Leitz run the winery. He described Johannes as big-hearted, very kind, and the nicest guy you’ll ever meet. Al also mentioned that Leitz makes a lot of non-alcoholic wine. I found this wine lively, and I liked how it sparkled on my tongue. I bought two bottles. 

A.J Adam

A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken ($36, 15% off to $30.60) was my favourite wine of the evening. Al detailed that this was a boutique farm in Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel Valley, run by Andreas Adam and Barbara Gudelj. Their wines range from dry to sweet. A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken is their entry-level, and Al explained it’s their “business card” wine. He described this wine as high acid, with heirloom apple, a little salt, a slight spritz, and intense for the price. I loved how it tasted alive and almost fizzy. Al said that fizzle sensation is itself acidity. I could literally feel my mind blown when I realized what acidity felt like: a tingle on your tongue. I bought three bottles.

Weingut Schätzel

Next up was Weingut Schätzel’s 2021 Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling GG ($75), from Nierstein in Rheinhessen. Kai Schätzel and his business partner Jule Eichblatt farm biodynamically. One example of how they’re responding to climate change is by barely tilling and by planting poplars among the vines to keep them hydrated. I enjoyed the pleasant aftertaste.

Hofgut Falkenstein

The last wine, 2025 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb ‘Onkel Peter’ ($49, 15% off to $41.65), is from Niedermennig, Saar, one of the cooler corners for German wine. Al said Johannes and Erich Weber make the most brilliant, bright, tonic, mineral Riesling in the lineup. He told us the acidity is intense. The way he said “intense” was itself intense. He must have realized how alarming he’d made it sound, because he added that it won’t hurt you. Divine Offering thought this would be a great wine to drink after a meal, as it was a touch sweet. I bought a bottle for us to enjoy on another night. 

I ‘revisited’ a few wines to ensure I liked what I was buying. While we waited for our table at Noble Pie, I asked Al why he loves German wine so much, and what draws him to the science of wine. He finds German wine fascinating: its history, its Riesling, and its comeback from its past reputation.  After the 1985 antifreeze scandal hurt the reputation of Germany’s sweet wines, winemakers turned toward dry ones. He also spoke fondly of German Pinot Noir, which a warmer climate now helps ripen more reliably.

His answer to my second question, about the science of wine, went over my head, which tells you something about how deep his knowledge runs. His vocabulary is just as impressive. I consider mine pretty good, and I still went home looking up words, like amorphous.

What a night! By the end, it felt like I was a character in Mr. Fezziwig’s merry party in A Christmas Carol, which is my all-time favourite book scene. It was a real treat to try so many new and wonderful wines. I’m going to drop off some macarons to thank Al, Szivlia and team for their hospitality. Thank you, and happy 30th, Metrovino!

Two series remain for Metrovino’s All-Star Series: Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

It doesn’t take much to convince me to attend a wine tasting. So when food-and-beverage manager Robert Jewell emailed members about a new wine club at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, I clicked yes. For this post, let’s listen to Via con me.

For our first official tasting ($25), Luigi Perri and Bernard Pearson, co-owners of First Choice Cellars, introduced us to the wines of Tenuta I Collazzi, a historic Tuscan estate near Florence, owned by the Marchi family since 1933. At the heart of the property stands Villa I Collazzi, a Renaissance villa said to have hosted notable guests over the years, including King Charles III and Diana, Princess of Wales.

Art lovers may recognize another connection. The villa’s design is attributed to Michelangelo Buonarroti, the Renaissance master behind David and the Sistine Chapel ceiling. The estate produces a range of Tuscan wines under the Collazzi label, which was the focus of the evening’s tasting.

Wine 1: Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana

The first wine we tried was Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana.  Luigi described “pineapple, minerality, and soft acidity,” stating it was a “very pleasant, crisp and clean white wine.” Members can purchase this wine through Robert for $28.

‘Toscana’ means the wine was produced in Tuscany. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a classification that identifies where a wine comes from and offers winemakers more flexibility than some of Italy’s stricter wine rules, including Tuscany’s. Many of Tuscany’s famous Super Tuscans are wines that broke with tradition and are labelled IGT because they blend Sangiovese with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

Wine 2: Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G.

The second wine we tried was the Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. The Bastioni was fuller in flavour, due to the addition of Merlot. Luigi detected plum, blackberry, and vanilla, with some soft acidity. Chew Steel tasted sour cherries. This wine retails for around $30. The wine is available to members through Robert for $27.

D.O.C.G. stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, which is Italy’s highest traditional wine designation. It indicates that a wine comes from a specific region and has met strict regulations governing production, origin, and quality before being released for sale.

Wine 3:  Liberta (2022)

I enjoyed the third wine, the Liberta (2022), which Luigi called a baby Super Tuscan. The wine is aged in brand-new oak barrels.  He described dark, intense berry notes, vanilla, soft tannins and acidity. This wine was Chew Steel’s favourite of the evening. Of the first three wines, this is the one I’d pick.

Luigi explained that acidity in wine is good when eating because it makes you salivate, which opens your taste buds so you taste more. I found Liberta smooth and easy to sip. No surprise, this wine is a hot seller by the glass at restaurants. Expect to pay between $30 and $37 retail. Robert is offering Liberta to members for $27. Bernard noted that in the United States, the retail cost is $50 US. For the ballers out there, you can buy this baby in a double magnum, which is a four-litre bottle ($250), for your next dinner party, through Robert.

Wine 4: Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021)

Ding, ding, ding! The last wine was my favourite, the Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021). Collazzi Toscana is made entirely from Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. There is no Sangiovese. Silky and beautifully balanced, this is the wine I’d buy by the case.

Luigi described this wine as having a massive body and a little bitterness, like biting into a grape seed. Bernard mentioned that most of the Collazzi Toscana ends up in Switzerland due to the demand for the wine. Expect to pay $80 or more per bottle. Through the wine club, members can purchase Collazzi Toscana for $60.

For anyone looking to stock their cellar, Luigi and Bernie have extended a special offer to members. Purchase five cases of Bastioni, Liberta, or Collazzi through Robert, and they’ll include a complimentary 3L bottle of Liberta, which is the equivalent of four standard bottles of wine.

I certainly don’t need five cases myself, but I’d happily go in on a group order with a few friends. Then we’d have the perfect excuse to crack open a double magnum and celebrate.

Upcoming event: 1996 First Growth Bordeaux

I learned a lot during the tasting. The most practical takeaway was Luigi’s advice to open the wines about 45 minutes before serving to allow them to breathe and fully express themselves. The most expensive lesson is that Eau Claire Athletic Club is co-hosting a tasting of 1996 First Growth Bordeaux.

For those of us who are new to the wine world, ‘First Growth’ doesn’t refer to how grapes grow. The term comes from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, which ranks Bordeaux’s top estates into different tiers. First Growth is the highest rank, reserved for a handful of wineries that have maintained their prestige for more than 170 years.

1996 First Growth Bordeaux Tasting

The lineup includes all five First Growth estates: Château Haut-Brion ($1,300), Château Lafite Rothschild ($2,000), Château Latour ($1,600), Château Margaux ($1,700), and Château Mouton Rothschild ($1,500). These wines are being offered at prices well below what you would typically pay on today’s market, assuming you can find them.

Luigi and Bernard explained that opportunities like this are uncommon. Beyond their rarity, these wines are among the most celebrated bottles in the world from one of Bordeaux’s great vintages. Few people ever get the opportunity to taste all five First Growths side by side, let alone from the same celebrated vintage.

Contact

The event is open to both members and guests. If you’re interested in attending or learning more, feel free to reach out through my blog, and I’d be happy to point you in the right direction.

For a regularly updated list of  tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.