Four Winds Brewing Co. Taproom Review: Tacos in Delta, B.C.

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Chew Steel and I returned to B.C. to visit my family and stayed with my brother, Narc. Shortly after arriving, we took my nephew and niece, Roblox and Jellybean, to Four Winds Brewing Co. Taproom for tacos. Let’s listen to “Raining Tacos” for this post, a song Roblox likely knows all too well.

The taproom sits in a strip mall in an industrial area in Ladner. There isn’t much to look at outside, but inside, the room was busy with locals and people stopping in during their work breaks.

Chew Steel and I left the kids at the table while we went inside to order. Before leaving, I reminded them not to talk to strangers, then noticed the two men sitting at the next table. I hoped they didn’t take it personally. I just wanted to return both children safely to my brother.

We ordered at the counter, where the friendly staff told us they would bring everything to our table. We ordered lemonade ($3.95), an Original Saison ($7.50), salsa and chips ($10), five pork carnitas ($5.75), two Baja fish ($6.50) and four Bang Bang shrimp ($6.50) tacos.

The kids’ lemonade arrived in a modest pour, and both agreed it tasted a little like Gatorade. My saison was bubbly and fruity, with a crisp finish and enough depth to keep it interesting.

The salsa and chips were addictive. The thick-cut chips arrived warm and tasted homemade, while the salsa roja was thin and almost broth-like, with a gentle kick. Jellybean is sensitive to spice, so her tingling tongue confirmed that there was at least some heat.

The pork carnitas featured crispy roasted pork, charred pineapple salsa, radish, cilantro and cheese. The meat was juicy, with crisp, charred edges and a pleasantly salty flavour. A spoonful of leftover salsa brought everything together. Roblox enjoyed this taco, although he thought the kitchen could have been more generous with the pork.

The Baja taco came with a large piece of line-caught ling cod, coleslaw, chipotle aioli, green cabbage, pico de gallo and cilantro. The fish was crunchy, although the thick batter was a little oily. The house-made tortilla was soft and tasted fresh. This was the heartiest of the three tacos and the one I would order again.

The Bang Bang shrimp was topped with spicy sauce, guacamole, shaved red onion and pico de gallo. The shrimp was large and its batter crisp, while the toppings added freshness to each bite. I particularly liked the chunks of avocado and the sauces. Despite its name, I didn’t find it especially spicy. Jellybean disagreed, but she enjoyed her tacos.

Three tacos were enough to fill me up, but heartier eaters may want to order more. Roblox had eaten a late breakfast and still wasn’t full after three pork carnitas. With an early dinner ahead of us, he decided not to order another.

Four Winds may not offer much of a view, but the tacos were very good, my saison hit the spot, and the staff were hospitable. Come to this location for the food, not the scenery. If you want both, Four Winds also has a beach house location in Tsawwassen.

Restaurants · Wine tasting

Tenuta I Collazzi Wine Tasting at Eau Claire Athletic Club

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It doesn’t take much to convince me to attend a wine tasting. So when food-and-beverage manager Robert Jewell emailed members about a new wine club at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, I clicked yes. For this post, let’s listen to Via con me.

For our first official tasting ($25), Luigi Perri and Bernard Pearson, co-owners of First Choice Cellars, introduced us to the wines of Tenuta I Collazzi, a historic Tuscan estate near Florence, owned by the Marchi family since 1933. At the heart of the property stands Villa I Collazzi, a Renaissance villa said to have hosted notable guests over the years, including King Charles III and Diana, Princess of Wales.

Art lovers may recognize another connection. The villa’s design is attributed to Michelangelo Buonarroti, the Renaissance master behind David and the Sistine Chapel ceiling. The estate produces a range of Tuscan wines under the Collazzi label, which was the focus of the evening’s tasting.

Wine 1: Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana

The first wine we tried was Otto Muri (2023) IGT Toscana. Luigi described “pineapple, minerality, and soft acidity,” stating it was a “very pleasant, crisp and clean white wine.” Members can purchase this wine through Robert for $28.

‘Toscana’ means the wine was produced in Tuscany. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a classification that identifies where a wine comes from and offers winemakers more flexibility than some of Italy’s stricter wine rules, including Tuscany’s. Many of Tuscany’s famous Super Tuscans are wines that broke with tradition and are labelled IGT because they blend Sangiovese with grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

Wine 2: Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G.

The second wine we tried was the Bastioni (2022) Chianti Classico D.O.C.G. The Bastioni was fuller in flavour, due to the addition of Merlot. Luigi detected plum, blackberry, and vanilla, with some soft acidity. Chew Steel tasted sour cherries. This wine retails for around $30. The wine is available to members through Robert for $27.

D.O.C.G. stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, which is Italy’s highest traditional wine designation. It indicates that a wine comes from a specific region and has met strict regulations governing production, origin, and quality before being released for sale.

Wine 3: Liberta (2022)

I enjoyed the third wine, the Liberta (2022), which Luigi called a baby Super Tuscan. The wine is aged in brand-new oak barrels. He described dark, intense berry notes, vanilla, soft tannins and acidity. This wine was Chew Steel’s favourite of the evening. Of the first three wines, this is the one I’d pick.

Luigi explained that acidity in wine is good when eating because it makes you salivate, which opens your taste buds so you taste more. I found Liberta smooth and easy to sip. No surprise, this wine is a hot seller by the glass at restaurants. Expect to pay between $30 and $37 retail. Robert is offering Liberta to members for $27. Bernard noted that in the United States, the retail cost is $50 US. For the ballers out there, you can buy this baby in a double magnum, which is a four-litre bottle ($250), for your next dinner party, through Robert.

Wine 4: Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021)

Ding, ding, ding! The last wine was my favourite, the Super Tuscan, Collazzi Toscana (2021). Collazzi Toscana is made entirely from Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. There is no Sangiovese. Silky and beautifully balanced, this is the wine I’d buy by the case.

Luigi described this wine as having a massive body and a little bitterness, like biting into a grape seed. Bernard mentioned that most of the Collazzi Toscana ends up in Switzerland due to the demand for the wine. Expect to pay $80 or more per bottle. Through the wine club, members can purchase Collazzi Toscana for $60.

For anyone looking to stock their cellar, Luigi and Bernie have extended a special offer to members. Purchase five cases of Bastioni, Liberta, or Collazzi through Robert, and they’ll include a complimentary 3L bottle of Liberta, which is the equivalent of four standard bottles of wine.

I certainly don’t need five cases myself, but I’d happily go in on a group order with a few friends. Then we’d have the perfect excuse to crack open a double magnum and celebrate.

Upcoming event: 1996 First Growth Bordeaux

I learned a lot during the tasting. The most practical takeaway was Luigi’s advice to open the wines about 45 minutes before serving to allow them to breathe and fully express themselves. The most expensive lesson is that Eau Claire Athletic Club is co-hosting a tasting of 1996 First Growth Bordeaux.

For those of us who are new to the wine world, ‘First Growth’ doesn’t refer to how grapes grow. The term comes from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, which ranks Bordeaux’s top estates into different tiers. First Growth is the highest rank, reserved for a handful of wineries that have maintained their prestige for more than 170 years.

1996 First Growth Bordeaux Tasting

The lineup includes all five First Growth estates: Château Haut-Brion ($1,300), Château Lafite Rothschild ($2,000), Château Latour ($1,600), Château Margaux ($1,700), and Château Mouton Rothschild ($1,500). These wines are being offered at prices well below what you would typically pay on today’s market, assuming you can find them.

Luigi and Bernard explained that opportunities like this are uncommon. Beyond their rarity, these wines are among the most celebrated bottles in the world from one of Bordeaux’s great vintages. Few people ever get the opportunity to taste all five First Growths side by side, let alone from the same celebrated vintage.

Contact

The event is open to both members and guests. If you’re interested in attending or learning more, feel free to reach out through my blog, and I’d be happy to point you in the right direction.

For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Cheap Eats · Chinatown · Chinese · Dim Sum · Restaurants

U & Me Calgary Review: Cantonese Dim Sum in Chinatown

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Boss Lady and Ludwig invited me out for dim sum at U & Me, their go-to spot in Chinatown. Inviting someone there for the first time always leads to confusion.

“Want to go to U & Me?”

“You and me? What do you mean? Go where?”

“No, U & Me is the restaurant.”

“Oh.”

As I walked up the stairs, I noticed soothing spa music playing in the background. Let’s listen to some similar music for this post.

It had been years since my last visit to U & Me, and I was surprised to see the restaurant redecorated. Pink blossoms and lanterns hung from the ceiling.

Lo and behold, when I was shown to my table, I ran into my old colleague, Office Dad. It felt oddly appropriate introducing Office Dad to my actual dad, Ludwig. After a studied glance, Office Dad declared that I looked exactly like my mother, Boss Lady. My mother and I warily observed each other.

Boss Lady always orders too much. We picked six dishes: Meat & Peanut Dumpling ($6.55), Shrimp BBQ Pork Rice Roll ($6.95), Shrimp Leek Dumpling ($6.55), Chinese Donut Rice Roll ($7.55) Vegetarian Bean Curd Roll ($6.95), Gai lan / Chinese broccoli with garlic sauce ($10.95), and Beef Soy Sauce Flat Noodles / Chow Fun ($14.25). A nice perk, U & Me serves tea free of charge.

The first dish to arrive was the beef chow fun. Ludwig noted there was a generous amount of beef, and he was right. I was surprised by the number of large slices scattered across the noodles. The noodles were slick and glossy, generously coated in soy sauce. The beef was both chewy and tender. I would order this again.

As a vegetarian, Ludwig was assured by Boss Lady that she would only serve him the vegetables and noodles. At my mother’s encouragement, I spooned some into his bowl. He immediately scowled and accused me of slipping in an offensive piece of beef.

Unmoved by my cries of being falsely accused, he waited for a second opinion. My mother came to my defence and poked through the noodles in his bowl, confirming there was no meat. Ludwig nodded, satisfied by her verdict. I decided from then on that he could get his own damn noodles.

I liked the Chinese doughnut dish, particularly the contrast between the crunchy doughnut, the soft, chewy centre, and the silky rice noodle sheets. The real pop of flavour comes from the sauces, a peanut-based sauce and hoisin, which add sweet or nutty notes to every mouthful. This dish is a winner.

The gai lan arrived next, the leaves and stems cooked through, soft and saturated from the garlic sauce. I would have preferred the greens with more of a bite, like Central Grand’s version.

The white rice wrapper in the shrimp and pork rolls was wrinkly thin. I enjoyed the meaty cubes of char sui, though I found the shrimp extra salty. Surprisingly, the shrimp and pork roll tasted even better the next day.

The peanut and pork dumplings are usually one of my favourite dishes, but this time I found one part of the filling mushy. That said, the wrapper remained pleasantly firm, and the peanuts added a satisfying crunch.

The shrimp and chive dumplings contained crunchy shrimp with a satisfying snap. The chives added a pleasant herby savouriness to the filling, a nice change from the plain old shrimp haw gow.

I couldn’t help but marvel at my dad’s appetite. For such a skinny man, he can really pack the food away. When he reached for another Chinese doughnut, I lifted the plate toward him, as it was across the table.

Boss Lady complained that I was causing more trouble than I was helping, and to let him get it himself. I glanced over at Ludwig, expecting some reaction, but his expression never changed. Completely unfazed, he happily speared another piece of gai lan and carried on eating.

Ludwig’s favourite dish was the vegetarian bean curd. The exterior was crisp and crunchy, while the inside was packed with wood ear mushrooms and carrots, giving it plenty of texture. I enjoyed the process of dipping the bean curd into its accompanying soy sauce, the mustard, and the red sauce. I would order this dish again.

The service at U & Me was efficient. Our tea was regularly refilled, and extras like red and yellow mustard, takeout boxes (25 cents each), and a bag arrived promptly when asked. The food was hot, fresh, and well-priced. It’s easy to see why U & Me remains popular with my parents and the downtown office crowd.

Looking for more restaurants and longtime Calgary favourites? I keep a running list of spots worth revisiting.

Chinese · Restaurants · Seafood

Emerald Garden Calgary: Garlic Lobster and Cantonese Comfort Food

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I took my parents and in-laws to Emerald Garden for an early Mother’s Day dinner. I preordered the lobster a day ahead, knowing it’s my mother, Boss Lady, favourite dish. This was my third visit, and somehow the food keeps getting better. Let’s listen to Mom by Meghan Trainor.

Though we arrived right at 5:00 p.m., the parking lot was already packed. Inside, the room felt pleasantly old-school, the kind of Chinese restaurant that hasn’t changed much since it first opened, likely back in the 80s.

Our round table had a spinning lazy Susan in the centre. Throughout the evening, I noticed most of the dining room was filled with Asian families, usually a reliable sign that the food is good.

I ordered tea for my parents while Chew Steel and I drank a Heineken ($7.95). Bobbino ordered a gin martini ($7.95), and G-Mah a Coke Zero ($2.95). Glasses of ice water were already waiting at the table when we arrived. Our server brought out complimentary broth to start the meal.

I find the pacing at Chinese restaurants intense. The food comes out of the kitchen fast and rarely in measured courses. Usually, the meal starts with soup, a platter of cold cuts and jellyfish, maybe Peking duck. Then suddenly, the rest of the dishes hit the table all at once. Growing up, and even now, I always found myself slightly panicking. Especially when we had guests over, as my mother would order me to serve food onto their plates, all the while the lazy Susan spins nonstop in every direction. By the time I finished serving one person, another dish arrives.

The first dish after the soup was the Garlic Lobster ($79). The lobster meat was sweet and bouncy, coated in chili, salt, pepper, and crisp bits of fried garlic. I much prefer this style over the heavy cream sauce versions. The chef also did a good job chopping the lobster into manageable pieces, making it surprisingly easy to eat.

Initially, I was annoyed when Boss Lady insisted we order lobster instead of crab. She was right. Lobster is far easier to eat. The meat slips out cleanly, so you don’t have to fight for every bite. I’d absolutely order this again.

The Stir-fried Snow Peas with Minced Garlic ($24.95) were bright green and perfectly cooked, tender but still lightly crunchy. The minced garlic added just enough punch without overpowering the peas’ delicate flavour. My parents especially loved this dish, and it was the first time G-Mah and Bobbino had tried snow peas prepared this way.

The Salted Egg Yolk Soft Shell Crab ($28.95) had a rich, savoury coating that was almost dusty and dry on the palate, similar to Parmesan cheese. The batter itself tasted deeply seasoned and buttery from the salted egg yolk. It’s a solid dish, though quite heavy after a few pieces. Next time, I’d probably order another seafood dish that isn’t deep-fried. Bobbino was especially impressed with the quality of the seafood.

The House Special Fried Noodles ($18.95) came loaded with char siu, small shrimp, and vegetables over a nest of crispy fried noodles. Some noodles stayed crunchy, while others softened as they soaked up the savoury translucent sauce. My parents were initially surprised by how saucy the dish was, but ended up really liking it. A winner in my books.

The Braised E-Fu Noodles ($17.95) was ordered for Ludwig, since it was one of the vegetarian options on the menu. I liked the soft, springy egg noodles and the juicy slices of Chinese mushroom. Next time, I might just get him the vegetable fried noodles instead. Or better yet, maybe my mom can help translate so we can request tofu or something a little more customized from the kitchen.

The Ginger Fried Beef ($18.95) was ordered for Chew Steel and Bobbino, as I’ve never really been a ginger beef fan myself. Still, I tried a piece. The beef was crunchy and heavily coated in a sticky-sweet sauce. G-Mah noticed the dishes weren’t nearly as drenched in sauce as the versions served at the other Chinese restaurants she usually frequents. Boss Lady said she preferred ginger beef over sweet and sour pork.

The Salt and Pepper Eggplant ($20.95) featured thick slices of eggplant with a smooth, custardy interior beneath a light tempura-style batter. The coating tasted clean and crisp, like the oil was fresh. Simple but very well executed. This was Ludwig’s favourite dish. I would get this again.

Our server also brought out complimentary mango pudding for dessert, a light ending to the meal. My parents enjoyed the feast so much that I already promised to bring them back for Father’s Day. My recommendation is to dine in rather than order takeout, as the food really shines when it arrives fresh from the kitchen. Hitting the Sauce gives Emerald Garden two phat thumbs up.

Looking for more restaurants and longtime Calgary favourites? I keep a running list of spots worth revisiting.

Mediterranean · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Steakhouse

Park By Sidewalk Citizen: Avenue’s 2026 Mediterranean Runner-Up

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August 2026 update: Avenue Calgary readers named Park By Sidewalk Citizen a runner-up in the city’s Best Mediterranean Restaurants category for 2026.

Kournikova, Betty, Québécoise and I met up at my house before dinner. We started the evening with a bottle of Roza Petsovits by Franz Weninger. Kournikova took one sip and let out a pent up sigh, declaring she enjoyed it just as much as she had at Weninger’s tasting at Vine Arts. She recalled Franz saying he doesn’t make wine for taste, but for feeling. Judging from how much we drank, I’d say we were all feeling pretty good. Let’s listen to Amour Plastique for this post.

For dinner, I suggested Park by Sidewalk Citizen. Kournikova cares about the quality of meat, and Park offers three specialty plates: Cultured Heritage Chicken ($65), Beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), and Aged Alberta AAA Beef Three Ways ($115). Betty always orders beef tartare, dessert, and pasta, all of which Park does well. Québécoise gravitates toward vegetables, and Park offers seven options. Everyone agreed, though Kournikova reminded me we still need to try IBU next.

Our gallant server, Russ, greeted us enthusiastically and presented us with three table options. Québécoise immediately chose the side booth table and remarked that she appreciated being given a choice. I noticed Russ offering the same option to other guests as well. The right table shapes the entire experience.

Québécoise, who has a professional eye for design, admired the plywood walls for their rough beauty and unexpected complexity. She said the entire room was exceptionally well done. Coming from her, that’s high praise.

The owner came over to say hello. I recognized her from the media buzz surrounding Guy Fieri’s visit. She asked whether we were celebrating anything special. I told her we were celebrating friendship. So corny, but true.

We started with cocktails and later, a bottle of Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France ($85). We also ordered a lot of food: Shrimp ($21), Calamari ($16), Baby Kale ($18), Seared Cauliflower ($19), Parisian Gnocchi ($20), and the Aged Alberta Beef Three Ways. I wanted to try the dry-aged lamb, but no one else was interested. Kournikova told Betty to take the pictures before I could even ask. She knows me too well. Though I suspect her thoughtfulness had more to do with avoiding photography duties herself. I don’t blame her. That’s why I outsource.

I was surprised by how much I liked the baby kale salad. The kale was small, delicate, and tender. Fat dark-red sour cherries burst with juice, while the pecans added a delicate crunch. I didn’t find the figs overly sweet, and the ricotta brought balance and creaminess to the dish. I would order this again.

The fan favourite was the shrimp. I loved the red sauce and the polenta underneath, slick with some sort of oil. I usually don’t like polenta, but Park’s version was damn fine. The shrimp were massive, crunchy, seasoned with guanciale, chili, and garlic.

I was most interested in trying the calamari. Park’s version was different from what I’m accustomed. I noticed heat from the berbere, which is an East African spice blend commonly used in Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking. The ringlets and curly pieces of squid lay over a pretty backdrop of white labneh and cucumbers.

Kournikova, Betty, and Québécoise all declared the cauliflower their favourite vegetable dish of the night. The plate featured at least half a dozen large florets, seasoned with brown butter, harissa, labneh, and sesame. Despite the deep sear, the cauliflower retained its shape and texture. While I enjoyed it, I was even more impressed by the fried Brussels sprouts.

The Brussels sprouts were firm and slightly sweet from the sauce. The pork cheeks were crispy, and when you bit into one, you’d get a hot burst of rich, rendered pork fat. My friends all noticed the luscious, herbaceous green sauce coating the sprouts. I would order this again.

I thought the steak was even better than the last time I tried the aged Alberta AAA beef three-ways. I liked the contrast between the soft, chewy centre of the 21-day dry-aged striploin and the luscious cap of fat along the edge. The 45-day tallow-aged short rib seemed especially tender and rich. Québécoise enjoyed the spice on the steak, along with the onions, which were still crunchy and lightly pickled.

By the end of the meal, we still had four large pieces of steak, some gnocchi, and a quarter of the Brussels sprouts left. Kournikova observed that we had over-ordered, and everyone insisted I take the leftovers home.

Chef Stefan Gusztak came by near the end of the meal to say hello. We follow each other on Instagram, and I guess he recognized me, something that never happens to me. He also surprised us with dessert, a thoughtful gesture that was entirely unnecessary but very much appreciated. Unfortunately, the photo I took does not do it justice.

Kournikova noted that the house-made Turtles ice cream ($10) wasn’t as dense as she expected. Instead, it was lighter, colder, and creamier. My eyes nearly rolled into the back of my head as it melted across my tongue. The daily doughnut ($7) was such a wholesome treat, reminding me of elementary school hot-dog-and-doughnut day, except infinitely better. The cool custard filling wasn’t overly sweet, balanced by the sweeter chocolate layer on top. Without question, it was the dough that made it so special. It was light and clean tasting, without any oily heaviness.

This was my second visit, and I stand by what I wrote in my earlier post. Park by Sidewalk Citizen is where I’d take out-of-town guests to show off Alberta beef. The beautiful solarium matches the calibre of the cooking, while the service and hospitality are bar none. Hitting the Sauce gives Park by Sidewalk Citizen two phat thumbs up.

Want more dinner spots worth dressing up for? I keep a running list of Calgary’s best date night restaurants.