My sister, Me Shell, invited Chew Steel and me out to celebrate Kevin’s birthday at Water Street Cafe in Gastown. We sat on the second floor, where the restaurant features live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Let’s listen to “Hotel California” for this post.
Water Street Cafe attracts tourists with its prime location across from Gastown’s iconic Steam Clock. Built in 1977 by horologist Raymond Saunders, the clock doubles as a steam vent. Every 15 minutes, it whistles and releases steam with a shrill pwee-pwoo-pwee-pwooo. Having grown up in Vancouver, I know the sound well.
The musician, Sean from the Yukon, had such a good voice that both Kevin and Chew Steel remarked on it. Meanwhile, a table of American tourists in the corner was determined to record the Gastown Steam Clock. They shushed everyone in the restaurant and even asked the musician to stop playing. My gosh, all that fuss for a wheezing whistle that sounded more like a malfunction than a musical performance. By the third pwee-pwoo, I was cringing in my seat.
Me Shell ordered a whole whack of appetizers for the table: Bison Carpaccio ($25), two orders of West Coast Crab Cakes ($27), two orders of Garlic Cheese Toast ($14), two orders of Lemon Pepper Fries ($13), Burrata & Pesto ($21), Burrata Caprese ($26), and a Caesar Salad ($20). For our mains, Chew Steel and I picked the Seafood Gnocchi ($38), Me Shell selected Mushroom Gnocchi ($33), and Kevin ordered the Maple-Bourbon Short Rib ($48). The kids ordered the seafood gnocchi and the Rigatoni Arrabbiata ($36).
I was really impressed with the appetizers. The bison carpaccio was a rich bite. The meat was paired with Grana Padano and creamy truffle aioli. With the addition of spring greens and crispy capers, each bite was a satisfying contrast of soft and crunchy.
Chew Steel really enjoyed the garlic cheese toast, which is made with the restaurant’s signature house-made focaccia. The bread was ultra light, crispy on the outside and spongy on the inside. The decadent cheese was a mixture of garlic butter, Parmesan, mozzarella, and chevre; it was hot and gooey.
I tried both the burrata with pesto and caprese-style. The latter was my favourite of the two; the fresh milky white burrata contrasted with juicy, tart tomatoes and balsamic drizzle.
Kevin and Chew Steel raved about the West Coast crab cakes. Crisp on the outside, the filling was a soft mixture of blue crab, baby shrimp and saffron aioli. I liked the pop of corn and distinct crab flavour.
The Caesar was very tasty. The house-made dressing was heavy-handed, garlicky, and covered every Romaine heart crevice. Chew Steel isn’t a fan of garlic, but I am.
The lemon pepper fries were surprisingly good. The fries were puffy and extra crispy, like Costco’s battered version, dusted with a subtle but bright lemon pepper seasoning. The potato filling was soft and fluffy.
Kevin picked the best-looking entree. The portion of the short rib and whipped potato was generous. He gave a piece to all his kids to try, and offered us a bite. We were so full from the appetizers, we declined.
The gnocchi was exceptionally soft and almost custardy, collapsing against my teeth rather than offering any chew. My favourite seafood was the jumbo tiger prawns, which had a satisfying snap. The Manila clams were tiny, while the baby scallops tasted fresh. The lemon-dill sauce was velvety and rich.
The 2022 Blue Grouse Ortega from the Cowichan Valley ($58) paired well with our gnocchi. After a bite of the creamy seafood, the Ortega tasted especially crisp and refreshing.
Baby K kept working his way through the rigatoni while Me Shell repeatedly warned him to stop before he made himself sick. His eyes were huge, and each forkful seemed harder to swallow than the last, but he kept shovelling pasta into his mouth as though finishing it were a moral obligation. When I asked why he wouldn’t surrender, Me Shell explained that he couldn’t bear to waste food. Eventually, his big sister staged an intervention and pushed the plate out of reach.
Chew Steel was particularly taken with both the food and the live music. Thank you to Me Shell for treating us to such a lovely evening, and happy birthday to Kevin. Between the talented musician, delicious meal and far too much rigatoni, it was a memorable night.
Hitting the Sauce 