Well over a decade ago, my husband and I moved next door to a Calgary fixture, Mark Bata. Mark knocked on our door and welcomed us to the neighbourhood with a bottle of vintage Champagne. What happened next proves that no good deed goes unpunished.
I invited him in and poured him a glass of what I was drinking, Apothic. Just before he took a sip, I saw him swirling his glass furiously, the red swill going round and round. I’d never seen anyone twirl their wine. My stomach dropped, and I did something I never do. I asked him what he did for a living.
He said he was a wine importer. In my head, in slow motion of course, I wanted to shout “nooo” and slap that offensive wine out of his hand. Too late. He drained that glass like a champ, while I shuddered internally for serving this man such a terrible wine. He moved away shortly thereafter.
Fifteen years later, I found myself in Mark’s company again, as he hosted Piedmont and Beyond at the Eau Claire Athletic Club ($65 per person). Let’s listen to Somebody That I Used to Know for this post.
From his company’s portfolio, Bonvida Wines, we tasted eight Italian wines, six from Piedmont and two from Lombardy.
Valfaccenda Roero Arneis 2023, Piedmont ($47.50)
Mark explained that this white wine was made like a red, with time on the skins, showing up in the texture, minerality, and fruit. “Time on skins” means the juice sat with the grape skins, and the skins give it extra flavour and texture. Most white wines are pressed right after picking, so the skins are removed. He compared the process to how concentrated tea gets when you leave the bag to steep. I noticed a little tang at the finish. Delicious, and very easy to drink.
Massolino Langhe Chardonnay 2022, Piedmont ($45.50)
The Massolino winery is owned and operated by brothers, Franco Massolino and Roberto Massolino. Winemakers get only one chance a year to make their wine, Mark pointed out, unlike brewers, who can brew multiple times.
Mark asked Franco about the first Chardonnay he ever made in 1993. Franco said he made it like a carpenter, woody and oaky. I’d say he perfected it now. I found it heavier than the first wine, with a lot of personality for a white wine.
Mazzolino ‘Terrazze’ Pinot Noir 2024, Pavia, Lombardy ($44)
We learned from Mark that where Pinot grows, so does Chardonnay, as the soil works for both grapes. Chew Steel thought it was an interesting red wine, light and bright. I noticed how this wine made the Italian charcuterie and cheese pop.
Castello di Verduno Barbera d’Alba 2025, Piedmont ($52)
The Barbera grape requires a lot of sun, Mark shared. No oak was used in this wine, which resulted in a fresher, brighter wine that pairs exceptionally well with food. This wine tasted ripe, like Okanagan cherries in August. He suggested pork tenderloin or pasta as a food pairing.
Castello di Verduno ‘Basadone’ Pelaverga 2024, Piedmont ($52)
Mark called it the most interesting wine on the table: a rare indigenous grape, with only 29 vineyard hectares planted. ‘Basadone’ translates to “lady kisser”.
He likened this wine to a Pinot’s weight with a Syrah’s spice. Chew Steel noted its peppery notes. We were told to chill this wine and serve it with fatty foods, like charcuterie. This was Chew Steel’s favourite wine of the night, so I bought a bottle.
Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore Valgella 2022, Lombardy ($45)
This Lombardy wine was my second favourite wine of the night; it was fragrant with delicate fruity notes. The Nebbiolo grape is grown organically in a valley so steep, Mark pointed out, pickers have to lean against their toes as they hand-harvest. I took a bottle home too.
Massolino Barolo 2021, Piedmont ($85)
Now for the king of wines, Barolo! Mark emphasized that 2021 was a great year for this Barolo. I found it so good, gentle and floral. He added that all wines from the region go so well with food, like braised beef or stew. A bottle of this one is going to my neighbours, who always bring wines that outshine my selection.
Castello di Verduno Massara 2018 ($143)
Mark described this wine as piney and elegant. I preferred the 2021 Barolo, but Chew Steel preferred this one, so we disagreed. This one was also a crowd favourite. I would have bought a bottle, but I’d already overspent my wine budget this month.
None of the wines we tried tasted generic. That makes sense, since Mark told us he knows every producer he imports and can see each winemaker’s personality in each bottle. Thank you, Mark, for introducing this ex-neighbour to excellent wines she wouldn’t have found on her own.
For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.
