To celebrate its 30 years in business, Metrovino hosted an All-Stars series showcasing its longtime wine heroes. France ($78.75) kicked off the series. I went alone to this one, without my usual crew. For this post, let’s listen to Comfort Eagle.

Metrovino, I learned, used to be a warehouse and dates back to 1914. With exposed wood posts and beams from floor to ceiling, it’s a cozy spot for some wine education.

This evening showcased the stars and friends of Richard Harvey, Metrovino’s co-founder. Richard mentioned that, in many cases, his friends’ children have taken over the business, or are in the process of doing so. He told us the work isn’t cushy, and it’s far easier to go into the city and push paper for a living than to do the hard work of farming. That resonated with me, as I remember watching how hard my mother worked as a small business owner. It is certainly not for the faint of heart. 

1. Terres Falmet

The first wine hero of the evening is Yves Falmet from Creissan, Languedoc, a hands-on producer. Richard noted that Terres doesn’t make many rosés, and this particular type is quite popular right now. I bought a bottle of 2025 Saint-Chinian Sibylline Rosé ($28, discounted 15% to $23.80) for my girlfriends, and they all enjoyed the crisp, clean flavour.

2. Domaine Vincent Carême

Vincent and Tania Carême are from Vernou-sur-Brenne in the Loire Valley. I enjoyed the 2023 Vouvray Le Peu Morier ($66, discounted 15% to $56.10), as I found it fresh and weighty. Vouvray is made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that’s sensitive to the growing season. One year the wine can be bone dry, and the next, sweet. Richard called 2023 a dry year for the Vouvray. I bought a bottle, and, as Richard suggested, I’ll pair it with poultry, mushrooms, salmon or white fish.

3. Château de Beauregard

I’m familiar with the Burrier family: Frederic, Sylvie, Julien, Baptiste, and Berenger, as Metrovino has hosted a tasting in their honour in the past summer. This wine is from the famous village of Fuissé, in Burgundy. Made from pure Chardonnay, the 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru La Maréchaude ($81) was described by Richard as bright, energetic and peppery, and one worth aging. I found this wine unusual as I’ve never tasted anything like this before. 

Around this time, Eva Hudson, a Metrovino partner, made us jambon-beurre, using baguettes from Mari Bakery and Terroir Artisan butter. What a scrumptious sandwich! Biting into the crusty bread, filled with cold, rich butter, and cool layers of finely sliced ham with the sharp, acidic bite from the cornichons had me salivating. Gluttonous and without shame, I took a second helping. 

4. Château Thivin

Richard introduced us to the Geoffray family: Claude Vincent, Evelyne, Claude Edouard, and Sonja from Odenas, Beaujolais. Sara Boucher, partner at Metrovino, mentioned she found the 2023 Brouilly Reverdon ($43) perfect, not too thin or thick, and very fresh. Again, I found this wine interesting as I couldn’t describe it myself. I confirmed with Sara that I should serve wines cellar-cool: red at 16–18°C and whites at 14–16°C.

5. Famille Pierre Gaillard

The 2024 Saint-Joseph Syrah ($55) received the most vocal reaction from the crowd. I could hear oohs and aahs from what seemed like the regulars in the room. The family behind the wine includes Pierre, Pascale, Jeanne, Pierre-Antoine, and Elise, from Malleval, Rhône Valley. Richard also happily pointed out that the next generation in the Gaillard family is stepping in. I could taste spice in the wine, which was exciting, since detecting notes doesn’t come often to me. I was tempted to buy a bottle for my wine club, but I tend to pick wines that are easy to talk about, like the Vouvray. Richard described this wine as energetic, juicy and complex.

6. Clos du Gravillas

The 2023 Lo Vielh Carignan de 100 ans ($47) from Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Languedoc, was truly gulpable. I found this wine silky and juicy. The Bojanowski family includes Nicole, John, and Sacha, with their son taking over the business. Richard adores this Carignan but says it has to be grown in the right place. These vines are over a century old, which is why this one really works. He likes this wine so much he bought a barrel, which holds 300 bottles. 

I already bought tickets to Metrovino’s three remaining series: Germany, Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Last Tuesday, Divine Offering, Québécoise, and I attended Aperitivo at Metrovino ($15), a casual tasting featuring Alessio Altariva of Fattoria Moretto. The event sold out quickly, which came as no surprise. Let’s listen to “Come On-a My House” for this post.

The tasting offered a very different picture of Lambrusco from the sweet, fizzy, mass-produced wine many people know. Alessio’s family makes small-batch Lambrusco from organically farmed grapes grown on just under 11 hectares, with a focus on Grasparossa, a variety native to Castelvetro in Emilia-Romagna.

Divine Offering and I arrived five minutes early and spotted Richard Harvey, one of Metrovino’s founders. He recognized us, too, and warmly welcomed us in. After lurking in the aisles trying to spot wines from the previous tasting we attended, we moseyed over to Eva Hudson’s station, where she was carving three different ages of Parmigiano-Reggiano and serving them with fresh, crusty bread. Nearby, plates of cheese and charcuterie were laid out.

Over the course of the tasting, we moved between Eva and Richard to sample and repeatedly revisit the winery’s flagship Lambruscos, Tasso ($35) and Semprebon ($35).

As Richard poured, he called Lambrusco “the most Italian wine”, soulful, friendly and distinctive, with countless regional foods to pair with it. The wine’s soft bubbles refresh the palate between rich, salty bites. The region where Lambrusco is made, Emilia-Romagna, also gives us Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma as natural companions for the wine.

The Lambruscos I had tried before this tasting reminded me more of sangria. Fattoria Moretto’s versions were different. They had the character of red wine but with a bright, juicy freshness. The gentle bubbles made each sip refreshing without stealing the show.

Tasso was the drier of the two, with a little more structure, while Semprebon was softer, fruitier, and a bit sweeter. Eva told us customers are almost evenly divided between them.

I was particularly interested in Québécoise’s verdict. Earlier this month, she had taken a sip of Cirelli’s “Orange,” pointed to the grapes we were eating and declared, matter-of-factly, “It tastes just like these.”

She preferred Tasso, while Divine Offering leaned toward Semprebon. I changed my mind with nearly every taste before eventually settling on four bottles of Tasso and two of Semprebon. Whether that was my own decision or Québécoise’s influence is still up for debate.

Throughout the evening, I noticed people stopping to chat with Alessio. Meanwhile, the three of us stood off to the side asking one another, ‘Do you think that’s the winemaker?’ then quickly looking in the opposite direction. We were fairly certain it was. However, agreeing that it must be Alessio seemed much easier than walking over and saying hello. It was like high school all over again.

I’m leading a member-led wine tasting at Eau Claire Athletic Club this month, and these Lambruscos will be among the bottles I bring. They’re an excellent conversation wine, easy to share and pair with cheese and charcuterie, yet different enough to challenge what guests think they know about Lambrusco. If their reactions are anything like mine, I suspect a few will be bringing a bottle from Fattoria Moretto to their next party. Hitting the Sauce gives Metrovino’s Aperitivo tasting two phat thumbs up. 

For a regularly updated list of  tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Last week, I attended my very first Metrovino event. Their events sell out so fast that by the time I learn about the tasting, it’s usually sold out. My luck seems to be changing because I finally managed to snag tickets to their 30th-anniversary celebration, Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier ($65). Let’s listen to Love You Madly for this post.

Metrovino marked its 30th anniversary alongside its longstanding relationship with the family behind Château de Beauregard. For decades, its wines occupied a significant place on Metrovino’s shelves. Helping celebrate the occasion was Baptiste Burrier of Château de Beauregard, whose family has cultivated vineyards in southern Burgundy for 17 generations. I wanted to speak with Baptiste, but I didn’t know what to say to a 17th-generation winemaker.

Divine Offering and I were greeted by Isaiah, who explained the structure of the standup event, pointing to three stations and a bodaciously loaded cheese station. He mentioned that Richard would be at the back station showcasing all the wines. 

Curiously, I noticed that throughout the evening, whenever someone mentioned Richard’s name, their intonation gave special emphasis. And throughout the evening, everyone seemed to defer to him. Richard, as I later discovered, is one of the founders of Metrovino.

This was also my first time in the store. It’s larger than it appears from the outside, with high ceilings. There are so many aisles, it felt like a corn maze, but with wine. Throughout the evening, Divine Offering and I had fun playing peek-a-boo. 

There were 13 wines to try throughout the evening. We moseyed over to the white wine station. I spoke to Sarah, and she explained that Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly was aged in previously used oak barrels, which adds texture and softness without the pronounced oak flavours of new barrels. The result is a wine that feels richer and fresher.

When I tried wine #4, Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers, a new wine term entered my vocabulary: appellation. An appellation is a legally defined wine-growing area with rules on how the wine is made. The Burrier family owns vineyards in several appellations. 

At the next table, I recognized Al Drinkle, the aptly named partner at Metrovino. I’ve been a big fan of his essays ever since I stumbled on his article, The Price of Chinese Food. 

In his section, I tried #6, the 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra. Al called this wine a good chugger. I enjoyed how the wine danced on my tongue. I bought a bottle.

Al described #7, the La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” as a mindblowing sipping wine. He likened the wine’s simplicity and drinkability to a good pizza, contrasting it to the layered complexity of a Michelin-starred dish. 

I finally met Richard when I sampled #9, the Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch. This was one of Richard’s favourite wines, as was mine. I found it a touch sweet and really fun to drink. I couldn’t leave without two bottles.

Eva poured me a taste from what appeared to be a double magnum of #10, the Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles. This wine was juicy and pleasurable to sip. I would have bought a bottle if they had any in stock. 

After this tasting, Richard stepped away to make a speech. The room was so packed that I couldn’t see him from the back. All I could make out was that he was perched high above the crowd, possibly standing on a ladder or table.

Richard spoke about the honour of having Baptiste Burrier attend, Metrovino’s longstanding relationship with the Burrier family, and his admiration for Château de Beauregard. I noticed the way the audience looked up at him. There was a genuine sense of respect and affection. It reminded me, at least in my imagination, of students looking toward Professor Dumbledore in the book series, Harry Potter.

A staff member then encouraged everyone to grab something to eat, stay hydrated between wines, and, if needed, let them arrange a safe ride home.

When Richard returned to his station, I tried #12 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay. It was so gulpable, I brought home two bottles. He shared an interesting perspective on this wine and Beaujolais in general. 

Beaujolais is often enjoyed young for its fresh, fun and juicy qualities. However, he pointed out that Beaujolais from recognized, high-quality wine-growing areas, such as this Juliénas, can also benefit from aging.

Juliénas is an appellation known for producing wines with greater depth and aging potential. He noted that as the wine ages, those fruity notes give way to more savoury flavours. By drinking Beaujolais only when it’s young, you’re missing out on another side of what it has to offer.

If this was my introduction to Metrovino tastings, I can already tell it won’t be my last. I’ll be back.

For a regularly updated list of  tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier Tasting

Here is the complete line-up and the prices offered, and the 15% discount offered that evening. An asterisk (*) denotes the wines I purchased.

1) 2024 La Rochette Macon-Milly Lamartine Montagne de Cra ($41 →  $34.85)

2) 2022 Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly ($44 → $37)

3) 2023 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé ($60 → $51)

4) 2023 Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers ($63 →  $53.55)

5) 2022 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Vers Cras ($85 → $72.25)

*6) 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra ($43 → $36.55)

7) 2023 La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” ($31 →  $26.35)

8) 2024 Joseph Burrier Saint-Amour Côte de Besset ($45 → $38.25)

**9) 2023 Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch ($41 → $34.85)

10) 2023 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles (N/A)

11) 2021 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent La Salomine ($63 → $53.55) 

**12) 2022 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay ($42 → $35.70) 

*13) 2019 Beauregard Fleurie Colonie de Rochegres ($46 → $39.10)