Last Tuesday, Divine Offering, Québécoise, and I attended Aperitivo at Metrovino ($15), a casual tasting featuring Alessio Altariva of Fattoria Moretto. The event sold out quickly, which came as no surprise. Let’s listen to “Come On-a My House” for this post.

The tasting offered a very different picture of Lambrusco from the sweet, fizzy, mass-produced wine many people know. Alessio’s family makes small-batch Lambrusco from organically farmed grapes grown on just under 11 hectares, with a focus on Grasparossa, a variety native to Castelvetro in Emilia-Romagna.

Divine Offering and I arrived five minutes early and spotted Richard Harvey, one of Metrovino’s founders. He recognized us, too, and warmly welcomed us in. After lurking in the aisles trying to spot wines from the previous tasting we attended, we moseyed over to Eva Hudson’s station, where she was carving three different ages of Parmigiano-Reggiano and serving them with fresh, crusty bread. Nearby, plates of cheese and charcuterie were laid out.

Over the course of the tasting, we moved between Eva and Richard to sample and repeatedly revisit the winery’s flagship Lambruscos, Tasso ($35) and Semprebon ($35).

As Richard poured, he called Lambrusco “the most Italian wine”, soulful, friendly and distinctive, with countless regional foods to pair with it. The wine’s soft bubbles refresh the palate between rich, salty bites. The region where Lambrusco is made, Emilia-Romagna, also gives us Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma as natural companions for the wine.

The Lambruscos I had tried before this tasting reminded me more of sangria. Fattoria Moretto’s versions were different. They had the character of red wine but with a bright, juicy freshness. The gentle bubbles made each sip refreshing without stealing the show.

Tasso was the drier of the two, with a little more structure, while Semprebon was softer, fruitier, and a bit sweeter. Eva told us customers are almost evenly divided between them.

I was particularly interested in Québécoise’s verdict. Earlier this month, she had taken a sip of Cirelli’s “Orange,” pointed to the grapes we were eating and declared, matter-of-factly, “It tastes just like these.”

She preferred Tasso, while Divine Offering leaned toward Semprebon. I changed my mind with nearly every taste before eventually settling on four bottles of Tasso and two of Semprebon. Whether that was my own decision or Québécoise’s influence is still up for debate.

Throughout the evening, I noticed people stopping to chat with Alessio. Meanwhile, the three of us stood off to the side asking one another, ‘Do you think that’s the winemaker?’ then quickly looking in the opposite direction. We were fairly certain it was. However, agreeing that it must be Alessio seemed much easier than walking over and saying hello. It was like high school all over again.

I’m leading a member-led wine tasting at Eau Claire Athletic Club this month, and these Lambruscos will be among the bottles I bring. They’re an excellent conversation wine, easy to share and pair with cheese and charcuterie, yet different enough to challenge what guests think they know about Lambrusco. If their reactions are anything like mine, I suspect a few will be bringing a bottle from Fattoria Moretto to their next party. Hitting the Sauce gives Metrovino’s Aperitivo tasting two phat thumbs up. 

For a regularly updated list of  tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Last week, I attended my very first Metrovino event. Their events sell out so fast that by the time I learn about the tasting, it’s usually sold out. My luck seems to be changing because I finally managed to snag tickets to their 30th-anniversary celebration, Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier ($65). Let’s listen to Love You Madly for this post.

Metrovino marked its 30th anniversary alongside its longstanding relationship with the family behind Château de Beauregard. For decades, its wines occupied a significant place on Metrovino’s shelves. Helping celebrate the occasion was Baptiste Burrier of Château de Beauregard, whose family has cultivated vineyards in southern Burgundy for 17 generations. I wanted to speak with Baptiste, but I didn’t know what to say to a 17th-generation winemaker.

Divine Offering and I were greeted by Isaiah, who explained the structure of the standup event, pointing to three stations and a bodaciously loaded cheese station. He mentioned that Richard would be at the back station showcasing all the wines. 

Curiously, I noticed that throughout the evening, whenever someone mentioned Richard’s name, their intonation gave special emphasis. And throughout the evening, everyone seemed to defer to him. Richard, as I later discovered, is one of the founders of Metrovino.

This was also my first time in the store. It’s larger than it appears from the outside, with high ceilings. There are so many aisles, it felt like a corn maze, but with wine. Throughout the evening, Divine Offering and I had fun playing peek-a-boo. 

There were 13 wines to try throughout the evening. We moseyed over to the white wine station. I spoke to Sarah, and she explained that Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly was aged in previously used oak barrels, which adds texture and softness without the pronounced oak flavours of new barrels. The result is a wine that feels richer and fresher.

When I tried wine #4, Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers, a new wine term entered my vocabulary: appellation. An appellation is a legally defined wine-growing area with rules on how the wine is made. The Burrier family owns vineyards in several appellations. 

At the next table, I recognized Al Drinkle, the aptly named partner at Metrovino. I’ve been a big fan of his essays ever since I stumbled on his article, The Price of Chinese Food. 

In his section, I tried #6, the 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra. Al called this wine a good chugger. I enjoyed how the wine danced on my tongue. I bought a bottle.

Al described #7, the La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” as a mindblowing sipping wine. He likened the wine’s simplicity and drinkability to a good pizza, contrasting it to the layered complexity of a Michelin-starred dish. 

I finally met Richard when I sampled #9, the Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch. This was one of Richard’s favourite wines, as was mine. I found it a touch sweet and really fun to drink. I couldn’t leave without two bottles.

Eva poured me a taste from what appeared to be a double magnum of #10, the Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles. This wine was juicy and pleasurable to sip. I would have bought a bottle if they had any in stock. 

After this tasting, Richard stepped away to make a speech. The room was so packed that I couldn’t see him from the back. All I could make out was that he was perched high above the crowd, possibly standing on a ladder or table.

Richard spoke about the honour of having Baptiste Burrier attend, Metrovino’s longstanding relationship with the Burrier family, and his admiration for Château de Beauregard. I noticed the way the audience looked up at him. There was a genuine sense of respect and affection. It reminded me, at least in my imagination, of students looking toward Professor Dumbledore in the book series, Harry Potter.

A staff member then encouraged everyone to grab something to eat, stay hydrated between wines, and, if needed, let them arrange a safe ride home.

When Richard returned to his station, I tried #12 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay. It was so gulpable, I brought home two bottles. He shared an interesting perspective on this wine and Beaujolais in general. 

Beaujolais is often enjoyed young for its fresh, fun and juicy qualities. However, he pointed out that Beaujolais from recognized, high-quality wine-growing areas, such as this Juliénas, can also benefit from aging.

Juliénas is an appellation known for producing wines with greater depth and aging potential. He noted that as the wine ages, those fruity notes give way to more savoury flavours. By drinking Beaujolais only when it’s young, you’re missing out on another side of what it has to offer.

If this was my introduction to Metrovino tastings, I can already tell it won’t be my last. I’ll be back.

For a regularly updated list of  tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.

Burg & Beaujo with Baptiste Burrier Tasting

Here is the complete line-up and the prices offered, and the 15% discount offered that evening. An asterisk (*) denotes the wines I purchased.

1) 2024 La Rochette Macon-Milly Lamartine Montagne de Cra ($41 →  $34.85)

2) 2022 Beauregard Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly ($44 → $37)

3) 2023 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé ($60 → $51)

4) 2023 Harvey Davidson Pouilly-Fuissé Les Murgers ($63 →  $53.55)

5) 2022 Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Vers Cras ($85 → $72.25)

*6) 2024 La Rochette Bourgogne Pinot Noir Montagne de Cra ($43 → $36.55)

7) 2023 La Rochette Beaujolais-Villages “La Verchère” ($31 →  $26.35)

8) 2024 Joseph Burrier Saint-Amour Côte de Besset ($45 → $38.25)

**9) 2023 Harvey Davidson Chiroubles Saint-Roch ($41 → $34.85)

10) 2023 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Perelles (N/A)

11) 2021 Beauregard Moulin-à-Vent La Salomine ($63 → $53.55) 

**12) 2022 Joseph Burrier Juliénas Beauvernay ($42 → $35.70) 

*13) 2019 Beauregard Fleurie Colonie de Rochegres ($46 → $39.10)