I took my parents and in-laws to Emerald Garden for an early Mother’s Day dinner. I preordered the lobster a day ahead, knowing it’s my mother, Boss Lady, favourite dish. This was my third visit, and somehow the food keeps getting better. Let’s listen to Mom by Meghan Trainor.
Though we arrived right at 5:00 p.m., the parking lot was already packed. Inside, the room felt pleasantly old-school, the kind of Chinese restaurant that hasn’t changed much since it first opened, likely back in the 80s.
Our round table had a spinning lazy Susan in the centre. Throughout the evening, I noticed most of the dining room was filled with Asian families, usually a reliable sign that the food is good.
I ordered tea for my parents while Chew Steel and I drank a Heineken ($7.95). Bobbino ordered a gin martini ($7.95), and G-Mah a Coke Zero ($2.95). Glasses of ice water were already waiting at the table when we arrived. Our server brought out complimentary broth to start the meal.
I find the pacing at Chinese restaurants intense. The food comes out of the kitchen fast and rarely in measured courses. Usually, the meal starts with soup, a platter of cold cuts and jellyfish, maybe Peking duck. Then suddenly, the rest of the dishes hit the table all at once. Growing up, and even now, I always found myself slightly panicking. Especially when we had guests over, as my mother would order me to serve food onto their plates, all the while the lazy Susan spins nonstop in every direction. By the time I finished serving one person, another dish arrives.
The first dish after the soup was the Garlic Lobster ($79). The lobster meat was sweet and bouncy, coated in chili, salt, pepper, and crisp bits of fried garlic. I much prefer this style over the heavy cream sauce versions. The chef also did a good job chopping the lobster into manageable pieces, making it surprisingly easy to eat.
Initially, I was annoyed when Boss Lady insisted we order lobster instead of crab. She was right. Lobster is far easier to eat. The meat slips out cleanly, so you don’t have to fight for every bite. I’d absolutely order this again.
The Stir-fried Snow Peas with Minced Garlic ($24.95) were bright green and perfectly cooked, tender but still lightly crunchy. The minced garlic added just enough punch without overpowering the peas’ delicate flavour. My parents especially loved this dish, and it was the first time G-Mah and Bobbino had tried snow peas prepared this way.
The Salted Egg Yolk Soft Shell Crab ($28.95) had a rich, savoury coating that was almost dusty and dry on the palate, similar to Parmesan cheese. The batter itself tasted deeply seasoned and buttery from the salted egg yolk. It’s a solid dish, though quite heavy after a few pieces. Next time, I’d probably order another seafood dish that isn’t deep-fried. Bobbino was especially impressed with the quality of the seafood.
The House Special Fried Noodles ($18.95) came loaded with char siu, small shrimp, and vegetables over a nest of crispy fried noodles. Some noodles stayed crunchy, while others softened as they soaked up the savoury translucent sauce. My parents were initially surprised by how saucy the dish was, but ended up really liking it. A winner in my books.
The Braised E-Fu Noodles ($17.95) was ordered for Ludwig, since it was one of the vegetarian options on the menu. I liked the soft, springy egg noodles and the juicy slices of Chinese mushroom. Next time, I might just get him the vegetable fried noodles instead. Or better yet, maybe my mom can help translate so we can request tofu or something a little more customized from the kitchen.
The Ginger Fried Beef ($18.95) was ordered for Chew Steel and Bobbino, as I’ve never really been a ginger beef fan myself. Still, I tried a piece. The beef was crunchy and heavily coated in a sticky-sweet sauce. G-Mah noticed the dishes weren’t nearly as drenched in sauce as the versions served at the other Chinese restaurants she usually frequents. Boss Lady said she preferred ginger beef over sweet and sour pork.
The Salt and Pepper Eggplant ($20.95) featured thick slices of eggplant with a smooth, custardy interior beneath a light tempura-style batter. The coating tasted clean and crisp, like the oil was fresh. Simple but very well executed. This was Ludwig’s favourite dish. I would get this again.
Our server also brought out complimentary mango pudding for dessert, a light ending to the meal. My parents enjoyed the feast so much that I already promised to bring them back for Father’s Day. My recommendation is to dine in rather than order takeout, as the food really shines when it arrives fresh from the kitchen. Hitting the Sauce gives Emerald Garden two phat thumbs up.
Looking for more restaurants and longtime Calgary favourites? I keep a running list of spots worth revisiting.
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