Park by Sidewalk Citizen – Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways

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Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen, and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order a couple of plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how beeswax, dry-aging, and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for a high-end restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up. When you experience such high-quality food and service together, it stays with you.

Bars/Lounges · Mediteranean · Restaurants

Sound Room and Turkish Kebab House

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On Friday, I was feeling spry and suggested to Chew Steel that we start at the Sound Room, then head to Turkish Kebab House in Calgary’s Manchester area. Let’s listen to Colours by Black Pumas for this post.

The Sound Room is my favourite place to decompress. I love the ritual of descending into the dimly lit basement, claiming an empty table, and heading to the bar for a cold beer. A vinyl record spins behind the bar, filling the room with music set just right, loud enough to enjoy every note, yet soft enough to engage in conversation.

Chew Steel ordered a glass of Okami Kasu ($8.50, 16 oz), a Japanese rice lager, while I chose the Honeybush Hard Ice Tea ($8.50, 16 oz). Ol’ Beautiful makes seasonal ice teas, but Honeybush is the only one for me. It’s dry, with subtle stone-fruit notes, refreshing and lightly effervescent with tiny bubbles. It’s so good I bought a six-pack ($16) to enjoy at home, for those times I can’t make it to the Sound Room.

We left soon after to make our reservation at Turkish Kebab. The restaurant is larger than it appears from the outside, filled with groups of all ages enjoying big meals. Without asking if we had a reservation, a manager quickly found us a table.

The service is calm and proficient. Soon after, our order was taken, and glasses of water and bread, hummus, and acili ezme, a spicy vegetable dip, were dropped off. We gobbled down the warm, chewy bread with hummus and tangy vegetable dip. I could really taste the bright red pepper characteristics in the acili ezeme. We didn’t have to wait long before our food arrived.

We shared two platters, the Adana Kebab ($24.95) and the Adana Mix ($24.95). The Adana kebabs contained minced lamb and beef. The latter had an adana kebab and one beef shish. The beef shish stood out for its deep charcoal-grilled aroma, crisp edges, and juicy interior. Each bite reminded me of eating yakitori late at night in Japan, intoxicatingly smoky.

The Adana kebab had a softer, tender texture, yet was rich in taste. I enjoyed the subtle grassy notes of the lamb. All the skewers were served piping hot and nicely seasoned by the BBQ’s char.

Both platters come with buttery rice, green salad and fries. The green salad was so large I couldn’t finish it all. The long, silky grains of rice were a simple foil to all the fire-kissed meats. The fries were battered, similar to those you find at the Costco food court.

I pulled a Peggy Hill social blunder. As we stood up to leave, I noticed the table next to us had ordered the karışık ızgara platter, a glorious mountain of grilled meats. Without thinking, I enthusiastically commented on the bounty. The entire table stared back at me with cautious suspicion. Especially the toddler.

Despite my faux pas, I’d happily return to Turkish Kebab House. Next time I’m ordering the massive platter of meats for two. And I’ll remember to admire with my inside voice.

Restaurants

Francine’s French Bar – Divine Offering’s Bday dinner

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Divine Offering turned 31! To celebrate this occasion, we went to Francine’s in Calgary’s Chinatown district. Though it was a Tuesday night at 6:00 p.m., the restaurant was packed with customers celebrating, and staff hustling to keep up with the steady stream of drink orders. Let’s listen to Fight Song by Rachel Platten for this post.

When I arrived, a customer at a nearby table looked strangely familiar. I’m notorious for thinking I recognize people I actually don’t know and giving them awkward, puzzled stares. Before I could embarrass myself further, I broke eye contact and headed to my table.

The tables at Francine’s are New York tight. If you’re over a size six, take the outside chair; otherwise, you may find your seat uncomfortably close to the next table. The close quarters also make for good eavesdropping, if you’re into that sort of thing. A particularly loud group of Flames-jersey-wearing diners made it nearly impossible for me to hear Divine Offering. I had to shout several times just to get her to repeat herself.

Perhaps I am so hyper-observant because I’ve been off the sauce for more than half the month due to medical treatments, an adjustment I’m still getting used to. While the birthday girl gleefully nursed a Francine 75 (1.5 oz, $16), murmuring demurely about how strong it was, I, mournfully, made do with a house pineapple pulp soda ($6). I worked my way through the slightly tart, bubbly drink while enviously watching the tables around me happily lingering over their glasses of wine.

We shared the Tuna Tartare ($22.95), silky pink cubes of tuna tossed with bits of apple, crunchy potato chip sticks for texture, and calamansi, an Asian citrus, that reminded me of fresh grapefruit. I preferred the calamansi to lemon or yuzu as its flavour was brighter, slightly sweet, and fragrant. I would order this again.

For our main, we shared the Steak À La Francine for two ($78.95). The generous 14-oz confit Delmonico-style steak was served with potato purée and a little gem salad. I encouraged Divine Offering to order a glass of wine. She ordered Francine’s house red (6 oz, $13). I enjoyed the salad, crisp lettuce leaves lightly glossed with olive oil and brightened with fresh mint. The freshness helped balance the richness of the steak and potatoes. When I order the steak frites ($39.99) in the future, I’ll be adding a salad. It nicely cuts through the richness of all that steak and fries.

The purée was a welcome component for soaking up the saucy steak, though it wasn’t quite as mind-blowing as the ultra-crispy fries. I ordered French fries ($9.95) near the end of the meal because I was craving them. By that point, however, I was completely stuffed, so I brought the leftovers home to Chew Steel.

Our server told us the steak had been braised for three days. That evening, instead of the usual peppercorn sauce, it was prepared with an Asian spin. The meat was ridiculously tender, and the subtle sauce, with its faint hint of five-spice, reminded me of duck. Divine Offering loved the steak’s charred, crispy edges. For a few moments, we ate in silence, listening to the satisfying crackle of the fries.

Now that I’ve tried both versions, the steak frites with peppercorn sauce and the Steak À La Francine with the Asian twist, here’s my advice. If it’s your first visit to Francine’s, go for the steak frites with peppercorn sauce. If you love duck or want something slightly lighter than the peppercorn version or something to think about, order the latter if it’s being featured. Both are excellent, and you really can’t go wrong.

For dessert, I suggested Divine Offering order the French Toast ($12.95). I raved about the soft, eggy toast, covered in honey caramel and topped with cold honey ice cream, and how the salty notes from the sauce and 14-month Comté cheese elevate this dessert to legendary status. Our server thoughtfully added a candle for the birthday girl. Divine Offering sat in quiet concentration, clearly delighted with each mouthful.

The next day, after finishing my workout at the Eau Claire Athletic Club, Robert Jewel, the food and beverage manager at the Exchange, came up to me and asked how I liked Francine’s. Small world! It turns out he was the mystery diner. It seems you never quite know who might be sitting at the next table at Francine’s.

Robert previously hosted TV’s A Is for Apple, worked with Chef Michael Allemeier, and oversaw several Concorde restaurants. I recognized Chef Allemeier’s name from my days in Vancouver, when he was the chef at Bishop’s, an upscale restaurant that was well out of my budget at the time. Robert also explained why I’m so obsessed with the Exchange’s chicken fingers and fries ($15 on the kids’ menu). He states the honey mustard poppyseed sauce is made from scratch, with all local ingredients. I also love the fries, which are clearly homemade and very potatoey.

Restaurants · French · Bars/Lounges · Dessert · Special Occasion · Wine tasting

Varbar Wine Bar – Fondue and champagne in Calgary

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Lululemon treated me to a belated birthday dinner at Varbar with fondue and champagne. The evening struck a chord between indulgence and charm, securing its place on my list of must-try spots in Calgary when you’re in the mood to celebrate. For this post, let’s listen to Mykonos by Fleet Foxes.

The restaurant is tiny, even smaller than Bar Gigi. Four tables for two, a bar with four stools, it feels like someone carved out an attic or closet and turned it into a tiny, sparkly playground for unapologetic lushes.

I have limited experience with champagne, mostly through Juice Imports tastings and time spent with good neighbours, Quebecoise, Sirski, and Kournikova. What I do know is this: I don’t care for the yeasty styles, which thankfully, weren’t on the menu at Varbar.

Lululemon ordered us a champagne flight ($45), fondue for two ($65), kimchi brussels sprouts ($7), and a glass of Pommery Brut Ŕose ($28). Our flight came first, and I followed her lead, tasting each glass and deciding which one we wanted to save for last.

The first one we tried, Bolinger Champagne Special Cuvee ($34 glass), reminded Lululemon of autumn and pear cider. I noticed the tang at the end and then no aftertaste. The bubbles were fine and gentle on the tongue.

The second champagne was Charles Mignon Réserve Rosé ($25 per glass). I enjoyed the clean, bright bubbles and the way they sparkled on the palate. Lululemon noted hints of rose and lychee. I thought it was absolutely delicious.

The Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve ($26 per glass) was equally impressive. Compared to the first two, it leaned softer and more toasty, with a gentle roundness that made it feel a little more unique.

Lululemon wanted us to try one more, so we landed on the Pommery Brut Rosé ($28). It ended up being her favourite, fresh, dry, with bright strawberry and raspberry notes, and the liveliest bubbles of the night.

Our fondue came with bread cubes, pickles, pickled white onions, baby potatoes, and green apples. Lululemon’s favourite were the in-house-made kimchi brussels sprouts, which were crunchy and tangy, and the apples.

I’ve had fondue three times before, once at a restaurant and twice at a friend’s house. Varbar’s gruyère and emmental fondue is the best I’ve had. The cheese itself was silky, nutty and savoury with a touch of sweetness.

I think one reason is that the cheese is served bubbling hot, which makes a big difference in its texture. It was stretchy and smooth, evenly coating each ingredient. I especially loved the acidity of the pickles cutting through the richness of the molten cheese, alongside the contrast between the cold, plain potatoes and the juicy green apples.

At the bottom of the pot, the cheese formed this golden, crispy crust that’s completely different from the silky fondue. It’s deeper, saltier, with a crunch that reminds me of the edges of a fancy grilled cheese sandwich.

Everything was so decadent, I wanted to weep with joy. Unfortunately, I was too dehydrated from treatment to shed a tear, so I did the only reasonable thing and kept eating.

Lululemon’s birthday is coming up, and I’ll need to come up with something spectacular. She’s a vegetarian, which makes this a tough act to follow. Best case, I take her back to VarBar and try to recreate the magic. Thank you, Lululemon, for such a thoughtful and memorable night.

Restaurants · Seafood

The Exchange in Eau Claire in Calgary

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On Saturday, Québécoise, Sirski, Deal and No Deal met us for dinner at the Exchange in Eau Claire. This dinner was particularly epic because we got to meet one of the chefs at the Exchange, Carla. Let’s listen to “Work It”.

Chef Carla stopped by our table to let us know one of the dishes we ordered wasn’t available. I was excited to meet her, as some of our favourite dishes have been her creations. She was humble and warm, speaking passionately about her food philosophy and love of food. I learned she moved from Peru to Calgary a few years ago and previously worked at Shokunin and Eight, which is owned by Chef Darren MacLean. It’s always impressive to meet a chef who has worked at MacLean’s restaurants, as I imagine the expectations there are not exactly laxydaisy. I’ve never eaten at Eight, but to get a sense of the experience, read food writer Elizabeth Chorney-Booth’s article.

If Québécoise hadn’t been with us, I would have happily asked our server, Liam, to choose the wine as he has great taste. I tend to order based on what I recognize, which isn’t always the smartest strategy when my wine knowledge is limited. Québécoise, on the other hand, approaches a list strategically, by region, vintage, style, and price. She buys enough wine to know retail pricing versus restaurant markup, which is a skill in itself. She spotted the Chablis Servin Les Pargues ($75) and immediately said it was a steal by restaurant standards.

The Chablis isn’t the buttery, oaky style often associated with California chardonnay. It’s clean, crisp, and bright, with a refreshing citrus note. Chew Steel was a big fan. Speaking of value, I forgot to tell Québécoise that our friends took us out to dinner at the Argyle Restaurant. The Glencoe Club recently started offering 750 mL wine bottles at retail price plus $20. That’s practically philanthropic, perhaps to take the bite out of a membership waitlist that feels more than generational.

Whenever there’s a feature with Peruvian influences at the Exchange, we get it because the flavours are incredible. I still remember the lomo saltado with buttered rice ($50), the Peruvian pork sandwich ($24), and, most recently, the halibut with squid-ink risotto ($27). I asked our server, Liam, if the halibut was better than my usual order of Chicken Tenders ($15). Fighting a laugh, he confidently announced the risotto’s deep, umami flavour was off the charts.

The risotto was silky and buttery, coated in a squid-ink sauce that tasted earthy and savoury. The halibut was meaty and juicy. I loved flaking the firm fish into the risotto and dragging each bite through the sauce. The halibut’s clean, wholesome flavour balanced the dish’s rich creaminess. Chew Steel especially liked the bright pop from the cilantro drizzle dotting the plate.

Side note. Liam is friends with Francine’s chef-owner Garrett Martin, and sous chef Jordan Anderson. We bonded over similar dining experiences eating the French toast, steak frites, and trout crêpes at Francine’s. He said the amount of thought that went into both the food and the drinks there is kind of wild.

With Deal and No Deal dining with us, both with a shared sweet tooth, dessert was non-negotiable. I’ve sampled three desserts at Exchange so far, and the Carrot Cake ($11) stands out. Gently spiced and moist, it’s elevated by a tangy yogurt-cream cheese spread, generously garnished pistachios and candied Beck Farm carrots for texture and sweetness. I’d order it again, which says a lot, as I’m not usually a dessert person.

Chef talent, off-the-charts savoury depth, smart wine picks, and carrot cake worth breaking the scale over? Yes, the Exchange worked it again. Thank you, Chef Carla, for a great meal.

Bars/Lounges · Chinatown · French · Restaurants · Seafood · Special Occasion · Steakhouse · Wine tasting

Francine’s – Bday dinner

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For my birthday, Chew Steel and I checked out Francine’s, a new French restaurant that opened up in Calgary’s Chinatown district. I’ve eaten at Francine’s before at a pop-up and a special event dinner, so I knew we were in for a treat. Let’s listen to Paradise by Sade for this post.

I made reservations at the last minute, so I was only able to secure bar seats at 5:15 p.m. As it was so early in the evening, we weren’t super hungry and just ordered two mains, the Steak Frites ($39.95) and the Smoky Trout and Crepes ($42.95). I wanted to try the trout dish because I read an Instagram post by the chef/owner, Garrett Martin, about his creative process for creating some of the dishes.

We started with a cocktail, a Francine’s martini ($17) for me and a Crepe Suzette Old-Fashioned ($16) for Chew Steel. The ice-cold gin-forward martini was aromatic and herby, marked with a distinct note of fennel. As we sipped, I noticed how quickly the room filled on a Tuesday evening. An older Asian couple sat beside us. It was cute to watch him, intently absorbed watching a YouTube video on his phone while his partner quietly ate, content in her own private little world.

The steak frites were among the best I’ve ever had. I don’t want to be dramatic, but the steak here is a must-eat-before-you-die type of experience. The bavette butcher’s steak was beautifully textured, sliced thin yet generously wide, with a charred, rugged exterior and a ruby-red interior that offered a juicy chew. The peppercorn glaze was rich and smooth, with a peppery bite that cut through the steak.

The fries were ridiculously delicious, golden and light, with an ultra-crunchy shell giving way to a whipped potatoey centre. Jordan, our bartender, nailed the wine pairings. For the steak, he paired it with a glass of Cabernet Franc (Domaine La Paleine, $10, 3oz).

The trout was soft and smoky, with a flavour profile reminiscent of salmon. We tore off a piece of crepe and wrapped it around a piece of trout, two types of pickled onion, cucumber, bright green spinach and chives. Each bite was decadent, drippy and messy.

The trout reminded me of Neptune’s famous johnny cakes, but the flavours were more refined. There wasn’t anything fishy or overly sweet. The combination of what I thought were unusual ingredients blew me away. The flavours were rounded and worked so well together that it made me think of head chef Koji Kobayashi’s fine-dining creations at Sukiyaki House. Jordan selected a bright white wine (Juste Le Blanc, Jurancon Sec $8.50, 3 oz) that cut through the smokiness and the decadent white sauce.

The mains are a generous portion, but I still wanted dessert. We shared the French Toast ($12.95) with honey-caramel, honey ice cream, and 15-month Comte cheese, paired with a glass of sherry (Moscatel Peromesa Jerez Valdespino, $13).

The dessert is worthy of Michelin recognition. The thick-cut bread was warm and eggy, layered with sweet, cold ice cream and topped with salty flakes of cheese. This dish, as well as the two before, had us licking our lips and scraping the plate for every last drop of caramel.

How good was the food? So damn fine, I sent Lovegastro, Quebecoise, Betty, Kournikova, Juliejuliehu and Divine Offering text messages raving about Francine’s and making future plans to revisit.

How indulgent was the food? I had a chemo follow-up appointment the very next day and had gained two pounds. I’m not sure whether that jump was due to fluid and inflammation or to the peppercorn glaze, but I choose to believe it was the sauce doing the heavy lifting.

The crowning glory is the value. For this level of cooking, the prices make Francine’s an easy choice any night of the week, not just for special occasions. Wines matched to each course are $6–10, and the steak frites is priced below lower than chains like The Keg and Cactus Club. Go, you won’t regret it!

Restaurants · Seafood · Steakhouse

Exchange – Praise beef

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Last Sunday, Chew Steel and I invited Boss Lady, G-Mah and Bobbino to dinner at the Exchange, located in Calgary’s Eau Claire neighbourhood. This visit was our fifth time there and hands-down the best. I even caught sight of the head chef this time, Eric Um! I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that he trained with Duncan Ly, which is a great endorsement. Let’s cue up Mystical Magical while I relive our evening.

The last time we visited, we ordered the Alberta Beef Burger ($22) and the Pasta Garlic and Olive Oil Tagliatelle ($22). The burger was sumptuous, two smash-style beef patties with crispy edges and deep, meaty flavour. Each bite was hot and juicy, with melted cheese cascading over the patties. The thick-cut red tomato was perfectly ripe. The brioche bun was light and sweet. The fries impressed too, chunky, crispy, with a soft mealy center. The burger and fries combo is a winner. I would get this again.

The tagliatelle was a treat. The noodles had that unmistakable homemade texture, less slick than dried pasta, a little puffy, with a firm, toothsome bite. The sauce was simple and elegant, lightly dressed with garlic, olive oil, and what I thought was lemon juice. The portion was so generous that I shared a quarter of it with Chew Steel.

When we revisited with our family, I convinced my mom to go for the steak. Being from B.C., she’s always had a bit of a hyped interest in Alberta beef. She thought the ribeye would be too big for her, so she chose the Steak Sandwich ($27). Holy smokes, this was hands down the best steak sandwich I’ve ever had. Superior than Hy’s, better than Caesars, my benchmarks.

Cooked perfectly to medium, each slice of steak was pink, juicy, and tender. The focaccia was light, its crisp edge a perfect contrast to the buttery softness of the steak. The sauce, a mix of lemon aioli, roasted garlic, butter, and watercress, sealed the deal. This was the clear winner of the night. I’d order it again in a heartbeat.

Chew Steel and G-Mah ordered the special of the week, Corn Pie with Aji Amarillo & Prawns ($35). The shrimp was perfectly cooked, soft but with a snap to it. The sauce was delicious, well-balanced, rich, and had a hint of kick to it. The corn pie was soft with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. I would get this again.

Bobbino ordered the Roast Pork Coppa ($33), which I’ve written about previously. I ordered a small bowl of chilli beef soup ($8) as my appetite was lacking. The chilli was comforting and well-seasoned. The addition of the pea shoots added a fresh crunch. The soups are a great option if you’re looking for something soothing and nourishing.

To date, my favourites are the steak sandwich, cheeseburger, pork belly sandwich and the carrot soup. The manager mentioned that new dishes and special dinners are on the horizon. That’s excellent news, as I’m looking forward to tasting what Chef Eric Um dreams up.

Restaurants · Special Occasion

True Wild Distillery – Girls’ Night

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On Friday night, the good neighbours reunited! We picked True Wild Distillery for dinner, located in Calgary’s Manchester Industrial. Kournikova and Betty stopped by my place first, where we popped open a bottle of champagne Kournikova had brought along. With Québécoise absent due to prior plans, we toasted and indulged a little extra, with only three flutes filled. Let’s cue up The Fate of Ophelia for this post.

The white building seems somewhat out of place in the midst of an industrial area. When Chew Steel first brought me here for a surprise date, I joked that I hoped he wasn’t planning to murder me. Inside and out, it’s an impressive space, with high ceilings and a whimsical staircase spiralling upstairs. We were seated right next to the kitchen, arguably the best table in the house, with a sweeping view of the entire restaurant.

Betty ordered the Paper Lantern cocktail ($18), while I followed Kournikova’s lead with a dry, dirty gin martini, stirred. Its flavour was floral and perfectly balanced, and the single olive was so delicious that I found myself wishing I’d asked for more, but our server had a stern vibe, so I held back.

I’d been to True Wild before, so I recommended the beef tartare, fries, and any of the cocktails. We shared the Beef Tartare ($28), Fennel Salad ($24), Pickled Vegetables ($11), Roasted and Glazed Pork Belly ($48), and the Grilled Steelhead Trout ($46). When we asked our server if our order would be sufficient, she recommended another side, so we added the Kennebec Fries ($10). To complement the meal, we also ordered a bottle of Lionel Osmin & Cie Villa Plage Blanche ($70).

The beef tartare had changed since my last visit. Previously, it arrived beneath a nest of matchstick potatoes. This time it came with a potato chips. The meat itself was milder tasting than I remembered, served at a slightly warmer temperature with sweet and tart notes. We like to think of Betty as a bit of a beef tartare devotee, and her current favourite is at Pat and Betty’s, while Kournikova’s favourite spot is FinePrint.

The fennel salad was a standout. Crisp slices of fennel that tasted freshly picked and were dressed in a lovely walnut vinaigrette. It was so simple and refreshing. We would order the salad again.

The pickled vegetables were also a winner. Nice tang, crunch, and the vinegar balance was subtle and perfect. Kournikova pickles her own veggies, and even she agreed they were good. Betty noted the varied selection, cabbage, carrots, and beans, all served with an aioli.

The roasted and glazed pork belly was everyone’s favourite. Betty noted it was buttery with so much flavour, while Kournikova praised the crispy skin, noting that people often get it wrong. Here, the chefs had it perfectly rendered, fat and all. The sugar pumpkin was served roasted, dry and soft, which provided an appreciated contrast to the richness of the meats.

The grilled steelhead was also expertly cooked. The flesh was tender, rich, and soft. However, I was so full I couldn’t finish my portion, and it hurt my soul to leave food on my plate that tasted so good.

We munched away on the fries, which were just as good as last time. We definitely over-ordered. For three women, sharing two mains and a salad is more than enough, as the main courses are generously sized, particularly the pork dish.

I’m looking forward to our next dinner. Bar Gigi, Carino, or maybe The Exchange in Eau Claire. To be continued.

17th Ave · French · Restaurants · Seafood

Cassis Bistro – Mussel Mania

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One of Beep Beep’s favourite spots in Calgary is Cassis Bistro. I’ve yet to meet anyone who isn’t smitten with this place. My own siblings were also instant fans. Let’s listen to Jardin d’Hiverv for this post.

This one’s a short post because we skipped appetizers and dessert. Beep Beep’s a light eater, and my own appetite’s still finding its way back post-surgery. But these mussels at Cassis deserve a special shoutout because they were so damn good.

I notice on the menu that Cassis now brings in mussels ($34) from Salt Spring Island. Best decision ever. Some of the mussels were so fat that they were the size of a large oyster. Every mussel was steamed perfectly, silky and tender, with an almost custardy center that melts on the tongue, right down to the very last shell. And then there’s that taste, fragrant of the sea and delicately sweet. The wine our server picked, Pouilly-Fume ($18) went so well with the mussels.

I noticed the duck fat fried frites are different now. Each one is longer and not as brittle as before, resulting in elegant, crispy stems with a still-soft center. When I dipped each frite into the rich, garlicky aioli, I nearly wept with joy. I held back my tears from a fraying thread of self-dignity.

We also shared an order of Beef Tartare au Couteau ($32), with more of those golden frites and a salad. According to my French friend, Fougui, no one does it better than Cassis. I love the pomp and ceremony of cracking that bright orange organic egg farm yolk and stirring the creaminess into the tartare.

The cool pieces of beef pop with the flavour of briny capers and mustard. The portion of beef tartare is generous. Our server selected a glass of Cotes Du Rhones ($14) that Beep Beep mentioned paired well with bright flavours in the tartare.

When we left the patio, I bumped into the owner, who, fun fact, happens to live a few blocks away from me. I told him the mussels were so good I would be back in a week. What I really wanted to say to him was never, ever retire. Calgary needs Cassis like a moule needs its frites.

Bars/Lounges · Restaurants · Seafood

The Exchange

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Beep Beep came to visit me! To celebrate, we booked a massage at Vital Performance Care, and then we dropped by for dinner at The Exchange in Eau Claire with Chew Steel. Let’s listen to ‘Don’t Look Back in Anger’ for this post.

We kicked things off with The First Bloom Gin & T ($15) — a fragrant goblet of organic gin, grapefruit tonic, ice, and rose petals. Chew Steel opted for the smoked old-fashioned, which was as smooth and well-crafted as it looked. But it was Liam, our server, who truly impressed with his wine recommendation: a bottle of Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir ($105) from the Russian River Valley. I don’t usually go for Pinots, but this one won me over — vibrant and full of flavour, like ripe strawberries steeped in warm tea.

Chew Steel’s Peruvian Pork Sandwich ($24) was sumptuous. When I took a bite, the richness of the crisp pork belly, enveloped in a warm, crusty bun, packed a flavourful bite. And that carrot soup hit the spot. Thick and hot, each sip was perfectly seasoned and so soul-satisfying. You could taste the love in the sandwich and soup! I would order this again.

I’ve ordered the Roasted Pork Copa ($33) twice now because it’s that good. The sweetly glazed pork is melt-in-your-mouth tender, even better when dipped into the tart cherry sauce. The stewed farro is silky with just the right bit of chew, and the generous portion could easily satisfy two. Beep Beep declared her wine paired nicely with the pork.

I enjoyed the Highwood Crossing Organic Grain Bowl ($22). The yuzu vinaigrette was bright and complemented the emerald green avocado, pea shoots, grilled chicken, and grains. All the ingredients tasted fresh.

I’ve also tried the Poached Icelandic Cod ($31), a customer favourite, and the portion is impressively generous. The sauce leans a bit too sweet and milky for my taste, but the Spiced Humbolt Squid ($18) more than makes up for it — thick-cut, tender, and coated in a crisp gluten-free cornmeal crumb. Personally, I’d love it even more in a light tempura batter, but then again, I’ve been living on McNuggets and Oreo McFlurries lately, so I know my palate might not be the gold standard.

We plan to take G-Mah, Bobbino, and my mother, Boss Lady, in the next month. I have my eye on some other dishes. Our Italian friend Fit told us the garlic and olive oil tagliatelle is stellar, which says a lot, knowing her food preferences. I’m also keen to try the burger and ribeye steak, both of which were recommended by other servers. In any case, Hitting the Sauce gives The Exchange two phat thumbs up.