Sukiyaki House occasionally hosts kaiseki dinners, multi-course Japanese tasting menus that are harder to book than a regular reservation. Here’s what the experience is like, and whether it’s worth it.
L and I finally made it to one of Chef Koji Kobayashi’s kaiseki dinners. Koji spent weeks working on the menu, as this was the first big event since COVID. We counted roughly 30 customers in attendance, a mix of couples on dates and regulars who you see throughout the evening, genuinely appreciating Koji’s creations.
Every guest sat at their table, as the restaurant was closed to the general public. When we were seated, I could sense the excitement in the air, similar to the tension you feel moments before the conductor waves his baton before his orchestra. I was downright giddy from anticipation. Let’s listen to some appropriately Zen-like music.
L and I added the sake sommelier pairings ($60), comprising 15 ounces of alcohol to match with Koji’s seasonally influenced eight-course meal. Our photos do not do the food justice. Check out Sukiyaki House’s Instagram photos to get a sense of the caliber of the presentation of the dishes.
The sakizuke comprised four elements: daikon smoked salmon, mozuku seaweed, okra and edamame pure, and temari sushi. Judith paired the appetizer with Tenbi, Tokubetsu Janmai Genshu. The smoked salmon was bright with lemon and crunchy from the daikon. The cup of seaweed was phenomenal, cool, slippery and delicate. The flavour reminded me of walking into a tranquil forest. I had never tasted anything like it and worked to get every last strand of seaweed.
The ossuimono consisted of minazuki tofu, seared uni, jyunsai (water shield) and lime. The soup was full of distinctly Japanese flavours. Light and lovely, I would pick out the juicy little sea treasures and then sip on the beautiful broth. The soup was my favourite dish; it was so sensual in flavour and texture.
The munkozuke was a showstopper, Japanese halfbeak with yuzo and shiso. Twisted in circle, the spine of the whole fish encircled the sashimi. L loved the showmanship of knife skills and the freshness of the sashimi. The yuzu foam was dreamy, a fresh and gentle complement to the delicate, clean white fish. The soy pairing was familiar, and the contrast made the flavour pop. Judith paired the sashimi with Senki Muku, Junmai Daiginjo.
The takiawase was outstanding. My meat-loving, eggplant and tomato-hating husband was so impressed he declared the cold-style dish his favourite of the night. The eggplant was silky and smoky, gorgeously rich and luxurious. The tomato was plump and so refined in flavour that I couldn’t believe what I was tasting. Between sips of Hououbiden Kanbashi, I would slowly nibbled on the generous scattering of black truffles.
The yakimono course reminded me of the fall season. The grilled miso snapper was adorned with crispy fish scale chips and seaweed paste, reminding me of a cold October night. I loved the char on the baby corn and the giant crunchy spot prawn.
Before our shizakana course, we could smell the grounding fragrance of burning wood. I noticed the classical Japanese music was curated to each course at a volume low enough that my Shazam app couldn’t detect. Our plate of A5 Japanese Wagyu was decorated with a quail egg, foie gras mousse, lotus root chips and emerald-green fiddleheads. The foie gras melted in my mouth like whipped cream, salty and full of umami. Judith paired this dish and the next one with Terada Honke, Junmai.
The gohan mono was a rice dish of marinated squid, caviar, tamago and burock. The dark sauce was heavy and sweet. I enjoyed the combination of the sticky rice and salty crunch from the tobiko. We drank warm cups of sake, which heated me up like a good cup of tea.
The final course, mizumono, was a fun way to end the series. The vanilla ice cream was sandwiched with red beans and strawberries. Koji said the red beans would ward off evil spirits. When I saw how much L enjoyed his dessert, I gave him mine to eat as well. I loved the pairing drink, hojicha infused sochu, a concoction of tea, cold brew coffee and Kahlua.
I would recommend if you want a rare, high-end Japanese tasting experience. L and I were impressed with all the skill, imagination and beauty that went into each dish. The dinner took a tremendous amount of effort and coordination from all the staff, and we appreciated the performance. We look forward to the next kaiseki. Thank you, Koji and L, for a glorious experience.
Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.
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