I didn’t want a lobster roll from just anywhere, so I waited for the opportunity to go somewhere known specifically for their crustaceans. We packed our bags, and before leaving for the airport, we dropped by James Hook. For this post, let’s listen to “Should I Stay or Should I Go” by The Clash.
We arrived half an hour after James Hook opened, so it was still quiet. I told L to grab a table in the shade while I walked up to the food truck to order two large Lobster Rolls w/butter ($38.99), Sauvignon Blanc ($12) and a James Hook Summer Wheat Ale ($9).
I sipped on my wine and watched an older man sit quietly in the corner, carefully dissecting an entire lobster. His face was stern, and he never looked up, laser-focused on extracting all the meat from the shells. I saw an Asian dude around my age eating a small lobster roll and clam chowder. His back was turned to me so that I couldn’t read his expression. A couple of friends ordered several items and had to keep going to the food truck for napkins and hand sanitizer. After I was done spying and satisfied that we had hit the jackpot of tourist attractions, our food was ready.
Unlike all the other customers who had to wait at the truck, the employee brought out our food. I think this was because I tipped, and no one was waiting in line when our food was ready. I handed L his lobster roll and could tell it was heavier than mine. I complained bitterly, and without a moment’s hesitation, he switched our rolls. I felt myself swooning from his chivalry. We both took a second to admire our lobster rolls, piled so high that we had to cradle the toasted roll in the cardboard and foil when we ate. Otherwise, the meat would tumble off.
I couldn’t believe how much lobster tail and claws were in my sandwich. I poured the hot butter over the top of the bun, but there was so much that I ended up dipping the chunks of meat as the butter couldn’t make its way down to the bottom. The lobster was warm, light and clean. The red and white meat was succulent and tender, with a pleasant toothsome crunch to it. L and I have never eaten so much seafood in one sitting. I liked how all you could taste was the natural sweetness of the juicy lobster rather than seasoning or condiments.
The Canadian dollar is weak, so the two rolls and drinks cost me about $140 after the conversion. However, it was well worth it since we live in the prairies. It was an experience we couldn’t get elsewhere. Hitting the Sauce gives James Hook two phat claws up.
On our second last day, we checked out the Institute of Contemporary Art. L scoped out the area and suggested Row 34 for lunch. Before I left for this trip, my colleague Happy recommended Row 34, so I was up for it. I also knew there was a variety of craft beers for L to choose from.
The restaurant has high ceilings and a lofty warehouse vibe I noticed all the servers were on top of their game, professional and always posed to elevate customers’ experience. The weather on this particular day was awful, so we sat in a corner, watching the sheets of rain pour down through the window.
We weren’t too hungry and wanted something light to tie us over until dinner. I knew mussels weren’t in season, but I still ordered the Lager Steamed Mussels ($18). L wanted New England Clam Chowder ($13). Our server picked a crisp white wine (Domaine de la Ferrandière, $14) to go with my mussels, and L ordered Rally ($10), a session IPA.
My mussels were small and ordinary. The sourdough bread was too hard to eat, but I enjoyed L’s cornbread, which arrived in a big cast-iron pan. Oh boy, the bread was light and sweet, fluffy and soaked in sweet maple butter. The portion was so large that L could only eat half, so I gobbled up the remainder. L thought the clam chowder was even better than Bostonia Public House.
After the rain subsided, we walked to the Institute of Contemporary Art. When L got our tickets, the employee mentioned our admission was five dollars less because two exhibitions were closed. We took the elevator to the fourth floor and spent half an hour analyzing Simone Leigh’s sculptures. I was impressed with sheer enormity and the deep impression each piece imprinted on me. Once we were done, L said that was it and it was time to go. Unconvinced, I went back downstairs and double-checked it was just the Simone Leigh exhibition. The employee nodded and mentioned that’s why they gave us a discount, and typically, there is a watershed tour, but due to the rain, it was cancelled. The employee next to her snickered and looked delighted in my disappointment. L and I checked out some more museums and historical sites before our last dinner in Boston.
David, the friendly regular, recommended Oleana, as did my restaurant informer, Bottleneek. I couldn’t get reservations beforehand, so we went right when it opened and caught a table outside. Let’s listen to “Aman Avcı Vurma Beni” by Kemal Tanriverdi for this post.
We sat on the colourful outdoor patio amid leafy plants and a spouting water fountain. Two musicians played their instruments all evening, gently plucking away on their strings. Our young server provided us with an overview of the menu and, when asked, gave us his recommendations. I ordered a glass of white wine (Malagousia Blend, Theopetra Estate, Meteora, Thessaly, Greece, $17) while L selected a local beer (Lamplighter Brewing Co, Cambridge, MA, $14).
The Za’atar Bread ($11) was a ten out of ten. The bread is miraculous. Soft, light and spongy, the bread was salty from the Moroccan spices and walnut muhammara and fresh from the ribbons of cucumber and mint. I would get this again.
The Fatteh ($15) reminded me of a savoury dessert. I relished the fatty crunch of the pastry sheet and the soft curried cauliflower. The caramelized onions, pine nuts and yogurt made this dish just zing with intensity. The fatteh is another winner.
I read several reviews raving about the Spinach Falafel ($15), so I had to order it. We were instructed to roll each falafel with the flatbread and greens. I didn’t follow our server’s instructions, and instead, I broke apart the crunchy falafel into pieces, mixing the tahini, sour pickles, pine nuts and tzatziki. The spinach leaves were thick and wild looking.
Each dish came out leisurely, so we could take our time and savoured each dish. I ordered a non-alcoholic drink, the Rose Lemonade ($7), because the first glass of wine was enough for me in the heat. Our server noticed my lemonade was missing the rose petals, so he returned to the kitchen to remake another one. It’s this level of detail and attention from a server that elevates a great experience into a memorable one.
I was most curious about the Lamb & Eggplant Moussaka ($17). The lamb was rich and saucy, with a touch of sweetness. The mint and beet chips added a complimentary brightness to the mellow, soft flavours of the potato and eggplant. I would have preferred if the eggplant was not as chewy, but that’s my preference.
Our server highly recommended the Sultan’s Delight ($18), a dish he eats on every shift. I barely had to chew because the braised beef was so tender. I loved flaking the layers of beef off and swirling it in the puree. Eating the meat and eggplant puree in one bite was rich, sweet and smoky. The crowning glory was the single basil leaf that left an intense floral taste. We both agreed this was the winning dish of the night.
The chefs behind the food hit the nail with presentation and most importantly, the texture and flavour combinations. L noted all the ingredient went exceptionally well together. Paired with excellent service and serene back drop, this restaurant is a winner in my books. I can see why this restaurant is booked well in advance. L announced this was the best meal we had in Boston. Hitting the Sauce gives Oleana two fat thumbs up.
I booked our second tour, Freedom Trail: Small Group Tour of Revolutionary Boston. While I’m an avid reader, when exploring a new city, I prefer the experience of being guided to major historical points. It also helped that our guide, Drew just finished his degree from theBoston Fine Arts Theatre Arts. His flair for drama enriched the stories he recounted on our tour. For this post, let’s listen to “Freedom 90′” by George Michael.
The significant points of interest for me were the Old South Meeting House, where the famous Boston Tea Party began and the Old State House, where the speeches sparked the rebellious acts of defiance. Drew walked us over to Little Italy, where we passed Paul Revere House, the oldest building in Boston, and then concluded the tour with a patriotic speech overlooking Bunker Hill.
At around 1:00 p.m., I dragged my beloved to Neptune Oyster, but the line was so long that we wandered over to a pub for a beer and fries. By the time we returned, around 2:15 p.m., the line was shorter. We waited about 40 minutes, and in that time, I regaled the customers in front and behind me of the delicious gloriousness that awaited them at Neptune Oyster. I could tell that waiting in line exhausted L, as he was still tired from the day before, and my hyping up crowds under the scorching sun didn’t help.
When we received our drinks, there were some empty seats around us. The mood changes when it’s not jam-packed with customers. Employees clustered around regulars and chatted with them about their day. An employee slipped out of the kitchen and sat at the bar to enjoy a meal. There’s nothing more comforting in my eyes than an employee taking a moment to eat a meal at their workplace.
I tried L’s beer, which was the best pint on the trip. I enjoyed the tiny bubbles and clean flavour profile ($11). I tried the rose ($14) from the day before, as our server recognized me and remembered that “everyone was drinking that rose that day.”
I ordered four of the Cherrystone clams ($2.90) while encouraging L to try the oysters ($3-3.50). Ah, the clams were just as good as yesterday, salty, sweet and tasting of the ocean. The plump meat was cold with a satisfying chew to it. L noted Neptune’s oysters were far better than the Bostonia Public House.
Next, we supped on Bluefin Tuna ($21). The tuna was buttery and smooth, but it was the addition of the crunchy seeds and salt made the crudo pop. I liked the dollop of olive oil and nutty flavour from the sunflowers.
We ordered the Neptune Johnnycake ($19); I knew immediately he would like it. L has a sweet tooth, and nothing makes him happier than dessert. Holy smokes, this is a winning dish.
We sat silently, slowly picking away the cake, enjoying the sweet, savoury flavours. The contrast between the honey butter, creamy smoked fish puree and sturgeon caviar was unusual and delicious. L raved that this was the best dish he’s eaten on the trip. He loved the crispy texture and the unique flavour combination.
For dessert, I ordered Fried Clams ($28). I don’t think Neptune, the godly chef from the previous day, cooked this order of clams. It might have been his apprentice because while it was good, it wasn’t out of this world like it was when I first tried it. The difference was that the clams weren’t as fat, and the batter was crisper, so it didn’t crumble and melt in my mouth like the last time. The clam belly was firmer, more like a standard fried oyster than a jiggly gift from the sea.
As my new friends from the lineup left the restaurant, they came to thank me for my recommendations. Perhaps I missed my true calling as a hype person for rap music. L agreed with me that Neptune is worth the lengthy lineup. I tried to pay for the meal, but L swiped my hand away and told me to quit it. Thank you, L, for humouring me and taking me out one last time at Neptune Oyster. Hitting the Sauce gives Neptune Oyster two phat thumbs up.
I booked a Ghosts & Gravestones Trolley Tour when L returned to the hotel. I knew this would be a silly excursion, but I was curious about the small cemeteries scattered throughout the downtown core. For this post, let’s listen to “Smokin” by Boston.
The tour was corny, and the stories were grossly exaggerated (and historically inaccurate). Still, we had fun jumping on and off the bus and stopping by the Granary Burying Ground and King’s Chapel Burying Ground. Walking through the grounds, we learned a little about the American patriots who died in the battle of Bunker Hill. We stopped by the graves of Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and Robert Treat Paine. The latter three were signers of the Declaration of Independence. The tour would have been more fun in October, with a cooler temperature and the smell of autumn in the air.
As it was late when we finished our tour, I suggested we try Peach Farm, located in Chinatown. All the employees were friendly, welcoming and attentive. We ordered Lobster with Green Scallion and Ginger ($60), Clams in Black Bean Sauce ($23), Shrimp Chowmein ($16), Steamed Rice ($2) and two beers ($12).
The clams arrived quickly. I liked eating the saucy clams with steamed rice, as the simplicity of hot white rice accents the meatiness of the clams and the saltiness of the black bean sauce. I enjoyed the clams but was annoyed to find a bit of sand in a couple, as the grating texture was off-putting.
The lobster was so hot the shells blistered my fingers. The meat popped out easily from its red claws. The lobster meat was fresh tasting, with a pleasing toothsome crunch. The ginger and scallion sauce was buttery, luscious, and so messy our server dropped off some extra napkins. I couldn’t help but think of my family when I ate my lobster, as my mom always ordered both king crab and lobster at our monthly dinners. Back then, the rationale for ordering such extravagant seafood dishes was simply because we were out. My mother, Boss Lady, has an extreme personality. For her, it’s go big or don’t go out at all.
I was content with supping on the clams and lobster with rice, but L was channeling Boss Lady and wanted another dish. I found the chow mein lacklustre. The shrimp was rubbery and tasteless. The sauce itself was void of seasoning or wok hey. This dish was crying out for some MSG! I felt like David, the friendly regular from Neptune Oyster, in that I wanted to tell L that I make a better chow mein at home.
Overall, I enjoyed my meal. Service was warm and sincere, which made up for the chow mein. Judging from the crowd, Peach Farm is a popular restaurant for everyone, from families, dates, regulars to tourists. I left stuffed and not crabby, as I was full of lobster.
On Sunday, L was gone for the entire day. I originally planned to visit Martha’s Vineyard but didn’t want to be stuck on a tour bus for hours, so instead, I opted to check out the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts. Before L left, he asked me to please be aware of my surroundings. I told him honestly that I couldn’t promise him that, but not to worry as I planned to Uber everywhere. Let’s listen to “West End Girls” by the Pet Shop Boys.
The Gardner Museum was something special. I walked through the entrance garden through rooms filled with international treasures. I didn’t feel like I was in a museum but a very wealthy woman’s house. I preferred how there were no descriptions in the Gardner Museum, as I realized reading takes away from the visual experience. I spent about two hours wandering through the halls and floors because every time there were loud children, I would run out to enjoy the serenity in the quieter rooms, then return when I was alone again.
At around 2:30 p.m., I decided to check out Neptune Oyster. The wait was only half an hour, as there’s a sweet spot after lunch and before dinner when it’s less busy. The hostess was welcoming and told me I was lucky to sit at the bar as a friendly regular, and two employees were seated to my left. To my right were two women who looked annoyed to be next to me, even though they wanted to sit at the bar.
I asked my server to recommend a white wine to pair with oysters, and she suggested the Muscat ($13). I ordered four medium-sized oysters, a Littleneck and a Cherrystone clam. I looked around to figure out what to order next, but I arrived at a lull and could only see plates of oysters and lobster rolls.
The friendly regular and the two employees were drinking glasses of rose. I could tell by watching them that the wine tasted better than mine. Their carefree smiles glowed as they gulped down the pink liquid. The server would continuously fill up their glasses from what appeared to be a bottomless bottle. For my next glass, I asked to drink what they were drinking, and it was a far superior wine ($14).
I asked the friendly regular next to me what he recommended. David paused dramatically and then went into a full-on gourmet speech, just like David Chang and Anthony Bourdain in the Netflix food documentaries. It may be an American thing, but they are much more passionate when speaking.
I asked David’s opinion on Neptune’s lobster rolls, and he said a lobster roll is a lobster roll; it’s simply lobster and bread. He and his son can make a fantastic one at home, so when he comes to Neptune’s, he’s looking for something different. I quizzed him about the fried clams, and he said the fried clams are great, but he can get excellent fried clams right in his neighbourhood. Exasperated, I explained that I was only around for a few days and couldn’t make lobster rolls at home, and there wasn’t a famous clam place where I lived. He pondered a little and offered me a sample of his soft-shell crab ($24), which I found delicate.
The oysters ($2.90-$3.50) were pristine and immaculately shucked. However, it was the clams that blew me away. The Littleneck was sweet and tender, while the Cherrystone was salty with a bouncy chew, with a texture between a squid and scallop.
I told David that the clams were far superior than I could get in Vancouver. He quoted Barack Obama’s speech on how Boston is one of America’s iconic and world’s finest cities. Americans are patriotic. I’ve never referenced our prime ministers except to mention Trudeau wears excellently tailored suits. Swoosh, swoosh, swoosh, that’s the sound his jacket and pants make as he walks by.
I showed David my list of to-go places, and he told me not to bother with Toro. He’s never heard of Yankee Lobster; James Hook is good, but again, not as good as he can make it (with browned butter), and Oleana in Cambridge is worth the trek. He recommended Peach Farm and has tried the king crab.
I chose the Fried Clams ($28), and oh my goodness, the chef must be the god of the sea, Neptune himself, because never have I ever eaten such perfectly cooked clams. The clams were giant, like a cluster of oysters stuck together like enoki tempura. Sublimely cooked, the center of the clam was still milky and eggy. The other parts of the clam were pleasantly chewy. The flavour of the meat was sweet and briny, with a crispy exterior protecting the fat, creamy belly meat. I would get this again.
I also tried a bite of David’s lobster burrata ($43). This dish reminded me of the creations I tried at Le Pappilion in Montreal. The herby fragrance from the basil popped against the subtle flavour of the burrata and sweet lobster meat. The portion was large enough for two. I would get this again as well.
When I told the two employees beside David I was returning the next day, they suggested the crudo and Johnny Cakes. I pondered out loud if I should return to Neptune for every meal in my remaining time. David shook his head and strongly recommended going to Oleana and sitting on the patio. It turns out he was right. What an introduction to the high quality shellfish in Boston. Unbelievable! And to be continued.
L had a conference in Boston last week. I came along as flights were cheap, and I’ve always wanted to check out the east coast. We landed late in the evening, dropped our luggage into our hotel, and Ubered out for a bite. The only place I could find a reservation was the Bostonia Public House. For this post, let’s listen to “More Than a Feeling” by Boston.
The pub is a popular spot with families. Even at 8:00 p.m., groups were waiting for a table. One baby was wailing across the room, but it didn’t bother us. The Bostonia Public House is not a place you come to for a hot date; you come here if you have kids but still want a tasty meal.
L ordered a beer, and I opted for a spicy Bloody Mary ($11), different from my beloved Canadian drink, the Caesar. The tomato mixture was slightly bitter and cloudy with what I assumed was pulp.
We ordered a dozen of the Island Creek Oysters ($36). Our oysters came first, and I noticed each one was mangled. The oyster flesh was jagged and at room temperature. Our server came over just as I ate one and asked how the oysters tasted. I pulled out the oyster from my mouth because I felt something stringy, which turned out to be dark hair. I was shocked and disgusted, then realized it was possibly my hair, as I recognized a tint in the colour. I told our server not to worry and tossed the offensive item to the ground.
Before we left for Boston, everyone told us to try the clam chowder. The BPH Clam Chowder ($13.00) was worth every calorie. Each super thick spoonful contained chunks of meaty clams. We enjoyed the smoky, salty flavour from the bacon and creamy pieces of potatoes. L proclaimed this the best soup he’s ever eaten. I would order this again.
We shared the Lobster Mac & Cheese ($38.00), which was big enough for four people to share as a small side. The noodles were so hot that I burned the roof of my mouth. The tubes were soft and covered in a light cream sauce and thyme. The best part of the dish was the crunchy cheese top layer and the generous chunks of lobster meat.
When our bill came, our server took our oysters off the bill. L said it was completely unnecessary, and I felt guilty because I still wasn’t sure if the hair was mine. However, the server said not to worry, so we added an extra tip to the gratuity.
We ended the night walking around the harbour and downtown core. L had a big day on Sunday, so we wanted to take it easy and leave the shenanigans for later in the week.
The best restaurant we visited in Montreal was Le Vin Papillon. The overall experience was so magical that I’ll book again the next time I’m in town. For this post, let’s listen to “Dream a Little Dream of Me” by Papas & Mamas.
Our server showed us three bottles of white wine. I wanted the second choice, a wine that paired best with the food. Envy and Emerald outvoted me, so we drank a Beaujolais Blanc ($90). The wine was lovely and a little buttery. We ordered less than the recommended number of dishes, six to seven for two people.
We picked our food based on the server’s recommendations, which included: Thon de La Gaspesie Tart ($25), Petoncle Cru ($48), Gnocchi Fritti Anguille ($16), Jambon e le Petite Bourg ($17), Mitake aux Champignons ($26), Belles Tomatoes ($15), Calamars, escarole, tomato ($19) and Tarte Clafoutis aux Ceris ($16).
The gnocchi fritti anguille was a knockout. Each square was black and blistered, puffed up like a pillow. The eel puree was unique. I could taste a hint of charcoal smoke, and the flavour reminded me of creamy smoked salmon. I would order this again.
The Jambon e le Petite Bourg ($17) was a plateful of thin slices of ham and shaved layers of smooth cheese. This dish was all about quality and simplicity.
I was in love with the big Boston scallops, Petoncle Cru. The texture was creamy and silky and popped from the fresh basil and fat salt flakes. What made this dish shine was the sweetness of the scallops and the sensation of the chilled shellfish sliding into my mouth. I liked how the basil flavour didn’t overpower the natural flavour of the scallops.
Emerald said bluefin tuna was a fun take on beef tartare, though I found the endive leaves overly bitter. I knew we shouldn’t have gotten this dish because our server looked disappointed in our choice when we ordered it. Don’t get me wrong, the tuna was great, it wasn’t a knockout like the other dishes.
The calamars arrived on a metal skewer, like a kebob. The squid was smooth and slippery, with a crunchy, el dente bite. The clean flavour from the green butter was phenomenal. The texture of the squid surpassed what I ate in Greece. I appreciated this dish because it’s so rare that I get to eat squid prepared so well.
Emerald, Envy and I were all over the mushrooms. Crunchy crevices, feathery light, each bite was a delight. Envy said everything was super simple but fantastic.
Envy mentioned the wine paired well with the tomatoes. Like our experience at Lapin, the tomato flavour was pronounced. I told my friends this must have come from the best tomatoes in the world. What a fantastic sauce. Emerald noted there was the right amount of seasoning in all the food. We would get the tomatoes again.
Envy ranked her top three dishes: tomatoes, scallop, gnocchi, and mushrooms. Emerald said the gnocchi was number one, then the tomatoes and mushrooms. I preferred the scallops, calamari, and then the tomatoes. This restaurant has it all – food prepared by culinary geniuses, servers who go above and beyond, and customers who know a great thing when they experience it. I left walking on moonbeams and not wanting the night to end.
Our meal cost was on par with Lapin, just over a hundred dollars a person. My only regret was not visiting Le Vin Papillon twice in a week, so I could try everything on the menu.
On Saturday, we experienced the worst breakfast and the best dinner on the trip. We also learned if you could get brunch reservations at the last minute, it’s probably not worth going. For this post, let’s listen to “Terrible Lie” by Nine Inch Nails.
Emerald wanted to go somewhere with a rooftop patio. I found two possible places through OpenTable. When I confirmed which of the two restaurants we should visit, there was a misunderstanding, and ultimately, we ended up at the wrong restaurant. Based on the reviews, I knew beforehand the food at Les Enfant Terrible was aptly named, but as Emerald wanted a rooftop and Envy didn’t want to wait for a table, our options were limited.
When asked for her recommendations, our server carefully responded, “Customers have said good things about the crab cake benedicts and croque-madame.” I immediately knew that she didn’t eat the food herself.
I ordered the Crab Cake Benedict ($25), Emerald picked the Croque-Madame ($22), and Envy opted for the M’et Mmetoutle Monde ($14, plus $4 avocado). I noticed our drinks sat the counter for ten minutes. I did enjoy my mimosa ($10), which tasted like freshly squeezed orange juice. Envy didn’t care for her Espresso Martini ($15).
Envy said her sausages and eggs tasted like it was from a free hotel buffet breakfast, the ones that keep their food in a warmer. We both liked the side of avocado. Envy observed that we never received the fruit cups included in our entrees.
Emerald noticed one of my eggs already popped. I could taste the crab, shrimp and smoked salmon and enjoyed the caviar hollandaise sauce. I thought this dish tasted like the airplane food when my sister booked me a first-class ticket to visit her. Tasty, but not fresh.
Poor Emerald got the worst of the entrees. I took a bite of her sandwich and gagged. The bread was untoasted and soggy, cold from the bland jelly-like cream sauce. She only ate the thin slice of meat and egg and wouldn’t touch the bread. I suggested she return the dish and grab a pastry on our way home. She declined. With one taste, I could sense Les Enfant Terrible had a toxic work environment. You could taste the sadness in the food. The absolute disregard for making a dish edible reek of someone unhappy, hungover, and needing a hug. I don’t blame the cook. The fault lies with the establishment. Down with management!
An accidental compliment salvaged the afternoon. When we returned to our place, Envy wanted to go for a hike, and Emerald wished to rest. So I popped out and visited the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.
When I went to pay for my ticket, the employee asked me if I was thirty or younger. Taken aback but still shameless, I uttered an unconvincing and slow “Yesss” and accepted the discounted rate. Elated, I continued on my journey. One of my favourite pieces of art were the Inuit sculptures and Aboriginal masks. I returned to our apartment younger and ready to experience one of the best restaurants I’ve tried in … perhaps ever. To be continued.
Our plan for Friday was brunch, shopping, and relaxing at the pool. For this post, let’s listen to “Who Even Cares” by Little Simz.
On the way over to Maman, we walked by the hostel I stayed at the last time I was in Montreal. I remember hanging out with Mike when Baron called me to say he was lost somewhere in Old Town. As this was before Google Maps, Mike had to figure out where Baron was on a physical map, and then we frantically searched for him on foot. Mike spotted Baron wandering around a park. We ran up to Baron and started jumping up and down and cheering hysterically. Ah, the good old days.
Maman wasn’t busy, but we still had to wait half an hour before our server took our order. Envy ordered Papa’s Breakfast Bowl with an extra egg ($20.50) and a Cold Brew ($5). Emerald picked the Dejeuner Mamam Sandwich ($19) and a Latte ($6.75), and I wanted the Sandwich Isabelle ($17) and a glass of water.
Emerald and Envy enjoyed their food, while I thought my zucchini and brie sandwich was bland, despite a heavy sprinkling of salt and pepper. The water tasted stale. The salad was tasty, fresh, with a vibrant dressing.
We went shopping along St. Catherine Street, where I learned not only does Emerald overpack, but she’s also a shopaholic. She bought more clothes on this trip than I own. Envy brought the right amount of clothing and found a stunning dress at Holt Renfrew. Unfortunately, the salesperson left the security tag on her dress, which she discovered right before we left for Calgary. I under-packed and needed more clothes, but I couldn’t find anything. Instead, I bought four pairs of black socks on the trip.
Emerald and I checked out the pool and hot tub when we returned. Then I went with Envy for a coffee and a trip to Shoppers to purchase sparkling water and snacks. Emerald found a fantastic coffee shop, where I discovered my new favourite drink, iced coffee by Faro. When we were at Shoppers, Envy pop out of an aisle and rushed over to me. She looked anxious, which was unlike her. I asked her if she was okay. She responded, “There’s a creepy guy in here. Let’s go.”
When we left, I finally got the tea. Some guy walked up to Envy and asked if she spoke English. She said yes, thinking he needed help. He asked, “How does it feel to be the most beautiful woman in the room?” When I stopped laughing, I asked how she responded. Envy retorted, “Really?!?” and then stormed off. I told her if I were there, I would have told him he was insensitive to say such a thing when I was also in the room.
I found Montreal unpleasantly hot, as the humidity makes me feel overly warm and muggy. Despite the heat, I still wore my Swedish tights because I like how the material feels. For dinner, we visited L’Orignal, a spot Envy wanted to scope out.
We started with cocktails, Pineapple Rum Punch ($14), Oyster Caesar ($18), and a Cucumber Caesar ($13). The manager helped Envy pick a bottle of white wine, Chablis la Chablisie ($75). They went back and forth talking about a flavour characteristic Envy doesn’t care for, but I couldn’t follow the conversation because I was feeling woozy.
Envy noticed I looked unwell and said we could cab home right away. Then she told me to go take my stockings off. I went to the washroom and felt a whoosh of incredible relief once I removed my stockings. I felt like a new woman. Envy shook her head and said she suspected I was overheating because I was wearing too many clothes. I called L that night to tell him about my near-death experience, and he wondered if Envy ever got tired of being everyone’s mother.
Once I took my tights off, my appetite returned. We shared a Kale Salad ($16), which we all thought was very good. The kale was soft and well-seasoned with a creamy dressing. For our mains, I ordered Bison Burger ($28) with Poutine ($8), Envy picked the Tagliatelle ($30) and Envy ordered the day’s plate, Halibut ($45).
My burger was delicious. The patty was charred and crunchy inside, while the meat remained juicy. I would get the burger again. Emerald and Envy liked the poutine more than I did, as I found the fries soggy. Emerald’s portion of pasta looked so small, but she said it was the perfect portion.
While we were there, the restaurant was only a quarter filled. Envy thought it would be more fun later at night when it was busier. Overall, I enjoyed our meal and particularly the service at L’Orignal. Unlike the other restaurants, we were constantly checked on and received our food promptly. Hitting the Sauce gives L’Original service two phat thumbs up.
When we woke up the next morning, we were ready to hit a Montreal hotspot for brunch. Emerald and I wanted to try Olive et Gourmando, a restaurant Phil reviewed on his show, Somebody Feed Phil. The menu isn’t Envy’s style, but she was a good sport and came along. As I’m always one to look on the bright side of things, I informed her I spotted some things she could eat, like boiled eggs and chia seeds. For this post, let’s listen to the Everybody Loves Raymond soundtrack.
On our way over to the restaurant, the rain came down hard. Due to Envy’s excellent sense of direction, we arrived quickly, but ended up standing around for an hour for a table. Once we sat down, we waited another half an hour to order. On this trip, we learned the busiest restaurants are the best, and in this case, Olive et Gourmando is worth the lengthy queue.
Emerald ordered the Poached Egg On Your Face ($25.50), Envy picked L’oeuf Coquette Frittata ($26.50), and I wanted what Phil recommended, Le Cubain ($25.50). I didn’t take a photo of Envy’s food because I knew she was hungry. Since it was noon, I ordered a glass of wine to accompany my meal.
Of the two sandwiches, Emerald’s egg sandwich was the best. The eggs were so silky, thinly sliced into uniform pieces, and nestled between hot, melted cheese and crispy pancetta. I could taste a creamy aioli that kicked up each crispy bite. I would get this again. Emerald commented on how big the sandwich was but thought it was a decent size as no sides were included.
The cubain sandwich contained quality slices of pancetta and pork. I enjoyed the smoky flavour of the meat and the spicy mayonnaise. The bread was oily in both sandwiches, but in a good way, like a grilled cheese sandwich.
I spotted bottles of wine to go and assumed it would be good. I asked an employee which one he would recommend. He pointed to a bottle and said, “I don’t know if you’ll like the wine, but this one is popular.” I should have listened to him and aborted my mission, but I went against his warning and bought a bottle ($40).
After our meal, Envy walked us down to the Old Port. We stopped to gaze at Silo No. 5, an old grain elevator from the 20th century. We turned around and walked by Habitat 67, a housing complex designed by Israeli–Canadian architect Moshe Safdie. Envy said it appeared rundown like a project, and Emerald thought it looked like a favela in Brazil. I reminded them that my husband and I have a picture of Habitat 67 in our living room. We had a good laugh. I added that our print was much nicer as it has Japanese influences with Scandinavian colours that suited our decor.
We returned to our apartment and planned to go shopping. However, record-breaking rainfall descended on us, and we waited out the storm. Our phones beeped out tornado warnings as we watched birds en masse struggle to fly by against the strong winds and heavy sheets of rain. We drank my subpar wine and cancelled our reservations at Bar St. Denis. Envy, always wise, suggested we stick close by and check out Bar George when the storm lifted. She didn’t want to get stuck due to flooding.
Bar George is located inside Le Mount Stephen, a hotel. The hotel is swanky, with impressively large neoclassical features. Though fully booked, we managed to get three spots by the bar.
A DJ spun his tunes at the entrance by a massive fireplace. We drank well-made cocktails (Elise, $18) that even matched the craftmanship of award-winning mixologist Christine Mah, partner at Klein/Harris in Calgary.
We ordered a light supper. Emerald and I shared two appetizers. The arancini ($16) arrived steaming hot, crispy and cheesy. Emerald like the addition of pickles in the beef tartare ($44) and the hard crunch from the crackers. The large portion of tartare came with fries, the best I tried on the trip. The frites were meaty and fatty, but with a hard crisp exterior. Envy said her octopus ($34) was okay, but she wouldn’t order it again.
The service was jovial, which set the mood for merriment. With the DJ spinning tunes and the calibre of our cocktails, I felt like I was at a party. When asked, the hostess was lovely enough to take multiple pictures of us and she gave side eye to an employee who clearly did care about our Kodak moment and defiantly trotted by, ruining one shot. Overall, we would return for the cocktails, service and snacks.
Hitting the Sauce 