Park by Sidewalk Citizen – Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways

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Five Stars was in Calgary for 24 hours. After reading Elizabeth Chooney-Booth’s praise for Park by Sidewalk Citizen’s aged Alberta beef platter in the Calgary Herald, I booked a reservation. Let’s listen to Gymnopédie No.1 for this post.

This is the second time I’ve ever eaten at Park by Sidewalk Citizen, and this experience was the exact opposite. Our server, Phil, showed us a private corner in the solarium. The room itself is beautiful, filled with Calgary’s trademark sunlight and green plants.

We debated on ordering the beeswax Dry-Aged Lamb ($85), a dish Guy Fieri tried that is supposed to be killer. I told him when in Alberta, let’s go with the Aged Alberta AAA Beef, Three Ways ($115). We also added the Tabbouleh ($18) and Parisian Gnocchi ($20).

I’m off the sauce again, so I picked a Ginger-Fig Kombucha ($8) while Five Stars chose the Orange-Vanilla. The kombucha is fermented in-house for two weeks in an oak barrel, then carbonated again to make it bubbly. The orange-vanilla was sweeter than the ginger-fig. Five Stars thought he detected alcohol. I told him, forlornly, that there’s only a minimal amount of alcohol in kombucha, not enough to get you tipsy.

Five Stars described the texture of the gnocchi as a cross between a pillow and cotton candy, as it melted and clung to the roof of his mouth. Delighted, he mentioned he barely had to chew. The gnocchi, according to Five Stars, is a masterclass in how gnocchi should taste.

Crunching into the mushrooms was so sensual, as each meaty bite released a savoury juice. The 12-month Manchego and labneh added creamy butteriness and caramelized nuttiness, while the truffle came through mostly on the nose. The gnocchi was slightly salty, which worked. The dish was served piping hot. The portion was enough for two to split. If you are a larger group, order a couple of plates to share. It’s that good.

Our beef platter showcased aged Alberta AAA beef three ways: 45-day tallow-aged short rib, 21-day dry-aged striploin, and 28-day-aged chuck. This should be Calgary’s national dish, not ginger beef. Each steak was its own composition, shaped by technique, flavour, and style. Phil discussed the process of tallow-aging the short rib for 45 days, but with my brain fog, I had difficulty understanding how beeswax, dry-aging, and tallow-aging shaped the flavour.

The short rib was beautifully sliced. The sensation of your teeth slicing through the tender meat was so pleasant that you slowed down, taking your time to chew and linger over each bite. We both loved eating the smoky charred shishito peppers and the pickled onions with the steak, as they just added another dimension. The peppers’ skin was papery-soft, and the innards weren’t too spicy. The shishito peppers were better than I had in Tokyo. Five Stars noted that the rib’s aftertaste was slightly wild, with a more complex beef flavour. It tasted unlike any steak I’ve had before.

Next up was the 21-day, dry-aged sirloin. One piece had a nice crunch of white fat on the edge. Five Stars said it was what you expect when you order a steak. He regretted eating the short rib first, as it was so outstanding that anything else wouldn’t compare. I disagree. I enjoyed the firmer, cleaner, familiar taste of beef. It was interesting to switch between cuts for comparison.

The 28-day-aged, skewered chuck was a surprise winner, thin, silky, and lightly sweetened by the sauce, with a smoky grill flavour. I haven’t eaten at Shokunin in a while, and I would like to do a cross-comparison. I would order the chuck again.

Five Stars mentioned the tabbouleh was a good palate cleanser between the meats. I enjoyed the salad’s complexity. It was spicy from the jalapeños, cool from the crisp cucumbers, pungent from the red onions, and tangy from the room-temperature tomatoes.

Phil is not only well-versed in the menu and cooking process, but he is also sharp. We wondered out loud whether we were supposed to slice into the meat on the big bone or if it was just there for show. I suspect the latter. Phil handled it tactfully, turning what could have been awkward into something funny. If I were a manager for a high-end restaurant, I would poach him in a second.

Hitting the Sauce gives Chef Gusztak and Phil two phat thumbs up. When you experience such high-quality food and service together, it stays with you.

Bars/Lounges · Mediteranean · Restaurants

Sound Room and Turkish Kebab House

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On Friday, I was feeling spry and suggested to Chew Steel that we start at the Sound Room, then head to Turkish Kebab House in Calgary’s Manchester area. Let’s listen to Colours by Black Pumas for this post.

The Sound Room is my favourite place to decompress. I love the ritual of descending into the dimly lit basement, claiming an empty table, and heading to the bar for a cold beer. A vinyl record spins behind the bar, filling the room with music set just right, loud enough to enjoy every note, yet soft enough to engage in conversation.

Chew Steel ordered a glass of Okami Kasu ($8.50, 16 oz), a Japanese rice lager, while I chose the Honeybush Hard Ice Tea ($8.50, 16 oz). Ol’ Beautiful makes seasonal ice teas, but Honeybush is the only one for me. It’s dry, with subtle stone-fruit notes, refreshing and lightly effervescent with tiny bubbles. It’s so good I bought a six-pack ($16) to enjoy at home, for those times I can’t make it to the Sound Room.

We left soon after to make our reservation at Turkish Kebab. The restaurant is larger than it appears from the outside, filled with groups of all ages enjoying big meals. Without asking if we had a reservation, a manager quickly found us a table.

The service is calm and proficient. Soon after, our order was taken, and glasses of water and bread, hummus, and acili ezme, a spicy vegetable dip, were dropped off. We gobbled down the warm, chewy bread with hummus and tangy vegetable dip. I could really taste the bright red pepper characteristics in the acili ezeme. We didn’t have to wait long before our food arrived.

We shared two platters, the Adana Kebab ($24.95) and the Adana Mix ($24.95). The Adana kebabs contained minced lamb and beef. The latter had an adana kebab and one beef shish. The beef shish stood out for its deep charcoal-grilled aroma, crisp edges, and juicy interior. Each bite reminded me of eating yakitori late at night in Japan, intoxicatingly smoky.

The Adana kebab had a softer, tender texture, yet was rich in taste. I enjoyed the subtle grassy notes of the lamb. All the skewers were served piping hot and nicely seasoned by the BBQ’s char.

Both platters come with buttery rice, green salad and fries. The green salad was so large I couldn’t finish it all. The long, silky grains of rice were a simple foil to all the fire-kissed meats. The fries were battered, similar to those you find at the Costco food court.

I pulled a Peggy Hill social blunder. As we stood up to leave, I noticed the table next to us had ordered the karışık ızgara platter, a glorious mountain of grilled meats. Without thinking, I enthusiastically commented on the bounty. The entire table stared back at me with cautious suspicion. Especially the toddler.

Despite my faux pas, I’d happily return to Turkish Kebab House. Next time I’m ordering the massive platter of meats for two. And I’ll remember to admire with my inside voice.

Bakery · Cheap Eats · Comfort food · Mediteranean

Doughlicious and Doughboy in Calgary

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I’ve heard great things about Doughlicious, a family-owned Mediterranean one-stop market in Calgary’s Greenview Industrial / McCall area, but didn’t venture in until this weekend. I’m late to the party, and that’s entirely on me. Let’s listen to Peaches and Cream by 112 for this one.

I recognized the owner, Mohamed, from Doughlicious Instagram account. I told him I’ve been enjoying his reels. He smiled, a little skeptically, and said some were better than others. He asked if I needed more time with the menu, but I already knew what I wanted.

I wanted to bring something back for my friend, Lululemon, who since the summer has been showing up with her famous weekly soups, plus a steady stream of thoughtful treats and gifts. Since she’s vegetarian, I ordered the muhammara and cheese pie ($6.99), vegetarian samosas (6 for $7.50), hummus (16 oz, $9.99), their famous homemade white pita and doughnuts ($11.99). She later texted me the samosas leaned more toward filling than shell, exactly how she likes them, and that they were the best she’s had in Calgary. For future parties, I’m officially switching from Nooren to Doughlicious, not just for the food but for the hospitality and the opportunity to grab other goodies in one stop.

Mohamed mentioned the homemade pita is his top seller. I can see why. It’s soft, pliable, and thin with just a soft little chew to it. It’s the kind of pita that actually feels alive, unlike the usual grocery store versions.

The hummus follows the same philosophy. It’s not overly processed or perfectly smooth, but textured in a way that lets each ingredient come through. Nutty, slightly tangy, finished with olive oil that ties it all together.

At the counter, there’s a wide range of options. Meat pies, vegetarian pies, samosas, wraps, and kebobs. The smoked chicken and brisket are available on the weekend-only. I ordered both for Chew Steel for our Valentine’s dinner, a whole roasted and smoked chicken ($28) and a pound of applewood smoked brisket ($30).

Mohamed asked for a few minutes to prepare everything and invited me to help myself to tea. I wandered around the shop, admiring shelves lined with tahini, spice blends, juices, and desserts. A steady stream of customers came through, many leaving with stacks of pita and trays of food.

I walked over to Doughboy, which shares the space with Doughlicious. There are two young staffers who were hustling to keep up with orders. The doughnut holes are fried fresh right in front of you, then assembled to order. I went with two combos, Bueno Supreme (dozen, $11.99) and Dubai Chocolate (dozen, $11.99). The doughnuts are superb. The shell shatters on first bite, giving way to a warm, airy interior that tastes clean rather than greasy. It’s that combination of light dough and well-handled oil that sets them apart.

The toppings are just as thoughtful. Chew Steel gravitated toward the sweeter option, milk chocolate and pistachio butter, drizzled over crisp phyllo and crushed pistachios. I preferred the more restrained combination of Bueno wafers, Nutella, and fresh strawberries. I expected the toppings to tip things into overly sweet or soggy territory, but they didn’t. At $9.99 to $11.99 per order, these are standouts you expect to see featured in Avenue Magazine.

We saved the meat for dinner at home. The brisket arrived in clean, even slices, showing off its marbling. It held together beautifully. No masking with a heavy sauce. Just well-executed, tender pieces of beef. The garlic sauce, served cold and silky, added a smooth, rounded richness without overpowering.

The chicken was just as impressive. Full, generous pieces of meat, intact and beautifully cooked. No dryness, no gross blue or red stringy bits. It’s the kind of chicken where you notice the quality right away. This doesn’t taste like a grocery store chicken, nor should it, as it’s almost double the cost, and worth every extra nickel.

Doughlicious and Doughboy are busy, and for good reason. There’s a disconnect in the best way for the customer. The kind of quality you expect to pay more for, at prices that are understated. They could charge 18% more, and I’d still come back, just not as frequently. At these prices, you don’t need to save it as a treat.

What a gem! Doughlicious and Doughboy reminded me how good a simple meal can be. Go. Just a heads up, the parking lot can get a little lively, so bring a bit of patience on the way in and out. It’s a popular spot, and everyone’s just very enthusiastic about snagging a space.

Greek · Mediteranean · Restaurants · Seafood

Kama

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For my birthday, Bex Oxo took me to see Candlelight: Coldplay & Imagine Dragons, a candlelight musical experience. As her birthday is two days before mine, I took her out for dinner before the concert at Kama. Let’s listen to “Believer” by Imagine Dragon for this post.

I was jonesing for a glass of wine, but since it was dry January, I ordered Benjamin Bridge Piquette Zero Spritzer ($6.50, 250ml). I picked the original flavour, which tasted like a simple, sweet pop. I would not order this again. This beverage ranked pretty low on my list, along with a non-alcoholic Erdinger.

Bex Oxo chose wisely, ordering a Jerry Blackberry Blackberry Ginger Shrub, Honey, Mint, Soda ($11). I took a sip and found her mocktail thick and delicious, with a tart, gingery bite to it. It was so good that I regretted not ordering it myself.

Kama has so many seafood offerings, but Bex Oxo has a shellfish allergy, so we tried the Spanakopita, Bulgarian Cheese, Nigella ($11), Brussels Sprouts, Burnt Honey Yogurt, Coriander, Cashew ($19), Chicken Souvlaki, Greek Garden Salad, Tzatziki, Honey Feta Beignets ($43).

First up was the spanakopita, generously stacked with buttery smooth spinach. The feta and dill made for a fragrant and rich filling. Unlike other spanakopitas I’ve tried, Kama’s version was filled with way more filling than pastry.

The brussels sprouts were phenomenal. Each warm sprout squished a juicy, sweet, burnt honey and yogurt sauce. I loved munching on the crunchy cashews and hits of coriander. Bex Oxo mentioned she enjoyed the charred cabbage leaves, which reminded her of slightly burnt food from a campfire. I’m not a camper, so though I couldn’t relate, I understood her sentiment. Bex Oxo has invited me camping many times, but I know my limits and play within it. This dish is a winner, and I would order it again.

The chicken souvlaki is large enough for three appetites. On the plate were five or six golden brown honey feta beignets. Bex Oxo took a bite and exclaimed that it was like a doughnut met a dinner roll. I liked the crusty, oily exterior and the doughy, dense interior.

The chicken chunks were also large; the meat was fluffy and soft. The best part of the chicken was the tangy lemon flavour and the combination of the sweet, salty, and crunchy flavour of the beignet. The simple side salad of peppers and onions rounded out this feast on a plate. I recommend this dish to anyone who loves a good, carby meal. I can’t remember the last time I enjoyed souvlaki so much.

We were so full we didn’t order dessert, and we took a good chunk of the chicken souvlaki home. Bex Oxo and I thought Kama was even better than Ten Foot Henry in terms of ambience and service. Ten Foot Henry has a much bigger wine list with bottles I’m familiar with, but other than that, Kama wins my favour.

As for the concert, I enjoyed it so much that I checked out Candlelight: Featuring Vivaldi’s Four Seasons the following week, and I’m planning to book tickets for Pink Floyd and Bach and the Beatles. Thanks, Bex Oxo, for introducing me to my latest hobby.