Bars/Lounges · Beer · Restaurants · Vegetarian · Wings

Edinburgh review: Salt Horse – where to drink craft beer

We took a day trip to Edinburgh from Newcastle. It’s a 1.5-hour train ride away, and staying in Newcastle meant we saved around $500 on our hotel room. For this post, let’s listen to the Arctic Monkeys, Do I Wanna Know?.

My brother, Narc, strongly recommended visiting Edinburgh Castle (£24), and his wife suggested the Palace of Holyroodhouse (£25). However, he texted me “Hollywood”, so the entire time we were in Edinburgh, I told locals who asked me where I was going next that I was heading to Hollywood Castle, instead of “Haw-Lee-rood” Palace.

We arrived at the train station and walked up the Royal Mile. Holy, I’ve never seen such an impressive mile in my life. We walked down cobble streets aligned with towering medieval and Renaissance buildings. The piercing sound of bagpipes, mournful yet inspiring, almost stopped us in our tracks. The sight of the buildings, churches, and ancient castles was even more stunning to me than my visits to Dubrovnik or Greece. Chew Steel asked me if my father had ever visited Scotland. No, I responded, he hasn’t, likely because Scotland doesn’t have enough composers to compel him to fly over.

In no time, we made it to Edinburgh Castle, just as the rain began to fall. Not the warm summer rain I’m used to in Calgary, but a sharp, bone-cold drizzle that chilled my bare legs and arms like a bottle of wine. I miscalculated the weather. In Liverpool and Newcastle, a heatwave occurred, and I incorrectly assumed the weather would be warmer.

No worries, I wrongly thought again, as I would be warm once inside the castle.  Edinburgh Castle is perched on a rock, and most of the tour is outside, exploring the main gate, the open plaza, the main courtyard, and the artillery areas. The warmest spot was the prison, which was cozy with its puppet light show and rows of hammocks and blankets. I was shivering so badly I wanted to crawl into one of the beds.

I also realized too late why my brother liked this castle so much. It was all military-related: the Mons Meg, a medieval cannon; the One O’Clock Gun; and a section dedicated to a vast array of medals, swords, and other symbols of military valour. The castle was originally a royal residence, but it later evolved into a military fortress. Edinburgh itself has a very long military history.

When we left, the sun came out again and dried my clothes. For lunch, we headed to Salt Horse, which is located in the centre of the city, a few blocks away from all the action. We sat down, a table away from an Asian female and her Caucasian partner. This detail will make sense in the following paragraphs.

The bartender knows his craft, not just about the history of the brewery or the style of beer making, but also about current anecdotes related to certain bottles. I told him about a delicious raspberry I tried at the Broad Chare. He recommended I try Timmermans Black Pepper Lambicus (£6.80), a bubbly Belgian beer. Chew Steel ordered Kriek Boon (£6).

What a lovely beverage! Thick and fragrant, the black cherries tasted and smelled a little like fresh pink roses. The black pepper was subtle and complemented the dark fruit. I’m a fan. Chew Steel enjoyed his beer was well.

As we sipped our beers, our bartender dropped off a plate of wings at our table. I told him we hadn’t ordered this, and he looked genuinely puzzled. The woman sitting next to us chimed in, “That was ours.” He laughed and said, “Oh well, you can see why I got confused about who ordered what. Right?” He gestured to us and then to them. One interracial couple exchanged a glance with another, and a silent moment of recognition passed between us. I joked to our doppelgangers, “We all look alike.” She laughed and offered to share the wings, which was very Asian of her. I declined, even though I really wanted one, and introduced myself, because we’re probably related, somehow.

Her name was Lisa; she was originally from San Francisco and now lived in Paris. She and her husband were heading to Montreal and Quebec City. I gave them some travel tips — where to go and, just as importantly, where not to go. Lisa wished us goodbye, and her husband disclosed Lisa was after some haggis, as she’s a devout foodie. For once in my life, I bit my tongue, but my eyes registered with Lisa’s husband, and I nodded in understanding.

For food, Chew Steel and I both ordered the Bowhouse (£15), which features dry-aged beef and bone marrow, accompanied by homemade, twice-cooked fries. This is a tasty burger! I could taste the bone marrow in the patty, which complemented the dryish texture well. I would come here again.

After our meal, we made it down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, which was much more hospitable. The palace was full of interesting twists and turns, like the royal portraits and Mary, Queen of Scots’ private chambers, where her secretary was murdered by her husband. We finished the tour with a walk through the royal gardens.  

We checked out some other areas, famous streets, and the most impressive statue honouring writer Sir Walter Scott, housed under a towering Gothic structure. Exhausted, we headed back to Newcastle for the night. One more day in London and we were back home! To be continued.

Bars/Lounges · Liverpool · Special Occasion

Liverpool review: The Bridewell, Belzan (Bib Gourmand)

Chew Steel returned to our hotel room from his conference and saw me washed up and in bed, scrolling on my phone. He asked if I had eaten, and I said yes, I had gone to McDonald’s, but it was even worse than the one back home in Canada. He shook his head in disapproval and told me to get ready, as the night was still young. Let’s listen to “Hello, Goodbye” by the Beatles for this post.

Chew Steel took me to The Bridewell, a converted historic Victorian correctional facility now specializing in beer. I’m so glad I don’t live near this pub as it would be the death of me. The bones of Bridewell still reveal that it was once a police station, as the old cells with sliding doors are left intact to confine customers. I preferred sitting out in the main room, where I could see the bar and watch the crowd gather.

When Chew Steel bought me my first gin and soda (£5), I noticed several blueberries peeking out from the ice cubes. I used my compostable straw to poke out the berries, and later, when it disintegrated, I used my piano fingers to fish out the sugary balls of fruit. The fizz was clean and bubbly, while the gin was perfectly boozy and sweet from the blueberries.

I went up to get a second round, and I told our bartender how much I loved the garnish in my drink. He smiled and presented me with this masterpiece. Oh boy, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and orange slices! It was like a fruit salad topped with gin. I felt like I won the lottery. I leaned back and happily ate my fruit.

The next morning, I was on my own. I ventured over to Liverpool Cathedral, which is the largest cathedral in Britain and the fifth-largest in the world. Stepping into the cathedral was an experience. There was a heatwave, so the moment I entered, the cathedral’s cool hush was like a calming balm on my skin. It’s a vast sanctuary of towering columns and impossibly high ceilings, chapels and wooden carvings.

Multi-coloured stained glass windows bring your eyes up to the expansive stone and woodwork. I was surprised to learn that Liverpool Cathedral is relatively new because it looks so old. Construction began in 1904 and was completed in 1978.

Next, I walked over to another St. George’s Hall, but it was closed for a private function, and I didn’t want to buy tickets for a light show. I bought some biscuits from Marks & Spencer for my mom and dropped by the hotel to change. Chew Steel came back from his conference, and off we went to explore the streets before our dinner at Belzan, a Bib Gourmand restaurant in the suburbs.

Belzan is a must-visit spot. It’s a tiny restaurant, and from appearances, it seems to have been a café at one point. The modest room features a half-dozen small seats and a bar with a small countertop. The staff were exceptionally personable, recommending dishes and taking the time to describe the beer, wine and food in detail.

We both opted for the fixed-price menu (£40), which included a glass of wine, an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert. We added an extra course, the Guinness Rarebit Potato (£13). For our appetizers, we selected the Barbecued Courgette, Butterbean Hummus with Pine Nut Gremolata and Broad Beans with Goat Curds and Caramelized Honey.

A courgette is a type of summer squash, similar to zucchini, with a light, melon-like flavour. Initially, I thought this was an odd combination of ingredients, but the mint pesto and sweet raisins worked surprisingly well with the hummus, adding a pop of herby freshness and a touch of sweetness. I also liked the buttery taste of the roasted pine nuts.

The other appetizer was just as good. The broad beans were so sweet, perfectly blanched, so each bite was toothsome. I liked the stiffness of the creamy yogurt and the subtle sweetness of the honey. Simple and delicious.

The rarebit was interesting and our favourite appetizer. It tasted familiar yet surprisingly unique, similar to a delicate layered potato cake, but topped with a rich, heavy cheese sauce.

For our mains, we chose the Barbecued Pork Collar, served with Provençal Sauce and Paprika Aioli and the Steamed Sea Trout, with Vichyssoise, Watercress, and Mussels.

The steamed sea trout had a delicate freshness, tender and buttery, almost melting on the tongue. Its richness reminds me of salmon, flavourful and slightly fatty. I loved it. The mussels, on the other hand, were pickled, cold, and tart, which didn’t work for me personally.

The pork collar was really succulent, and I liked the smooth texture of the meat. The mustard added a gentle and clean flavour with no lingering aftertaste. I especially enjoyed the briny, salty bite from the olives and the tangy tomato sauce.

For dessert, we ordered English Strawberries, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream, Malt, and Chocolate Mousse with Hazelnuts and Rapeseed. The ice cream was light and icy, melting quickly on my tongue. The strawberries were stewed and juicy, topped with a buttery crumble. The combination reminded me of a McDonald’s strawberry sundae, but so much better.

Chew Steel took a bite of my ice cream and immediately got buyer’s remorse. I ended up switching desserts with him. While I love ice cream, nothing quite beats the silky richness of a good chocolate mousse. The whipped chocolate paired nicely with the crunchy hazelnuts. I looked up “rapeseed” as it sounded off-putting, and learned it comes from the Latin word rapum, meaning turnip, a distant relative in the plant family.

The meal at Belzan was one of the best we’ve had in a long time. Chew Steel wondered which restaurant in Calgary would be comparable. I heard Bar Gigi offers a similar vibe and style of food, though snagging a reservation there at a decent hour is nearly impossible. Either way, this experience has inspired me to visit Bar Gigi sometime soon. In any case, Hitting the Sauce gives Belzan two phat thumbs up.

Bars/Lounges · Beer · Patio · Restaurants

High Line Brewing Inglewood Calgary: Veggie Dogs & Craft Brews

Lululemon and I met up for brunch on Saturday. As I was already in Inglewood getting my hair lopped off, she met me at the salon, and from there, we looked for a suitable eatery for our mood. Let’s listen to “Goodbye Earl” by the Dixie Chicks for this post.

Lately, Lululemon has been a big influence on what I eat. She’s introduced me to Vegan Street, DJ’s Market, Italian Centre Shop, and a soon-to-be-sampled bean curd banh mi at Nhu Y Sub. Lululemon suggested we get hot dogs and beer at High Line Brewing. I was game because there’s nothing better than the simplicity of a dog on a bun.

High Line Brewing is larger than it appears from the outside. Once you pass the front bar section, there are several rooms to sit and sip the afternoon away. You pay at the bar, grab your beer and then find a table. We first sat inside in a nook under a large tree before moving to the patio.

We ordered a vegetarian Chicago Doggo ($11) with chips and some beer.
I sampled four beers: CLUB MATE+, Dadge, Wabi Sabi, and Heartless Romantic. What I liked about these beers was that they felt like an eclectic sampling of sodas and cocktails. The Dadge, a cucumber ale, had a fresh, mild melon taste that reminded me of the refreshing cucumber water you get after an Eucalyptus steam.

The Club Mate+ reminded me of a cherry cola but sweeter. The hard tea and yerba mate were so mild that I could hardly detect them, though I’ll be the first to admit I don’t have a sensitive palate.

The Wabi Sabi was my favourite of the flight. It reminded me of all the sparkling lemon sours I consumed in Tokyo. The sour tasted like bright, tart lemon and tea. The Wabi Sabi was also noticeably bubbly, which I prefer over the more softly carbonated beers.

The Heartless Romantic was another cherry sour but more tart and less sweet than Club Mate+. I would order this one again, but I preferred the Wabi Sabi.

The outside of the bun was grilled and crunchy, while the interior was soft and fluffy. The temperature of all the ingredients was perfect. Warm bun, steaming hot dog and cold, crisp condiments. The vegetarian weiner tasted like a regular hot dog but lacked that elastic snap. Proportionally, the ratios were perfect. Each bite has some sausage, bun, and a delicious hit of mustard, pickles, onion, and banana pepper. The tomato was fresh and juicy, the sweet flavour highlighted by the hit of celery salt and the heat and crunch from the banana peppers. Oh, this dog just hit right.

Though I was full, I insisted on getting the next round of drinks and some chips and salsa ($9) because I know Lululemon likes to snack while she drinks. The corn tortilla chips were gluten-free, cut thick, and crunchy. Salty and well-seasoned, the corn chips paired wonderfully with the tangy pineapple salsa. There were way more chips to dip, so next time, I’ll request more salsa and sour cream so we don’t run out. I also made a mental note of the selection of gluten-friendly beers for my celiac friends.

Lululemon sipped on Zing, a ginger beer infused with lemongrass, lemon, and lime. The lemongrass flavour was particularly noticeable. I tried Honeybush ($7) from Ol’ Beautiful, and it was one of the best hard teas I’ve ever tasted. I loved the dry, rich notes from the black tea.

Thank you, Lululemon, for lunch and your excellent company. I look forward to our next vegetarian and gluten-friendly adventure.

For more reviews like this, see my picks for cheap eats in Calgary under $15.

Bars/Lounges · Vietnamese

Paper Lantern: Best Vietnamese in Calgary

Friday was my last day at my job, leaving me an entire weekend of unemployment before I started my new position. Chew Steel wanted to mark the occasion by going out for dinner. I picked Paper Lantern as I wanted to relive my experience with Danni and the Olympian two days earlier. Let’s listen to “Kokomo” by the Beach Boys for this post.

Chew Steel asked our server for a recommendation and mentioned he enjoys rum. She suggested the Zombie Milk Punch ($18), which consists of three rums, lime, falernum cinnamon, grapefruit, grenadine, absinthe, bitters and clarified milk. I enjoyed my Mai Tai ($12), but his cocktail was even better. He remarked that he’d never had a drink that he enjoyed this much. I could taste cinnamon and lime. Chew Steel said it was smooth with the right balance of sweet, tart, and booze. I made a mental note to bring my friends Kournikova and Lululemon to Paper Lantern for cocktails. 

The Mango Salad ($14) didn’t disappoint. I was worried it wouldn’t be as good as Wednesday. The dressing isn’t too sweet and has a warm, lingering heat. I love the zing of the mint and the toothsome texture of the mango and papaya. The only other salad that compares to Paper Lantern’s is Lulu Bar’s Sichuan noodle salad. 

Chew Steel enjoyed the Beef Stew ($14). The beef and carrots were so soft that chewing wasn’t necessary. The rich gravy complemented the crusty baguette. The beef stew is the dish if you are craving a “meat and potatoes” type of meal. 

I wanted to order the “What’s the Kitchen Having ($14),” a rotating dish the kitchen makes for dinner. The salad greens were so fresh. The noodles were light and springy. Eating the greens with the noodles and meat reminded me of a Vietnamese bun with a different Asian twist, as the noodles were thicker, and the sweet char sui reminded me of Chinese food.

The soup tasted like it took a long time to prepare, as it had that wholesome flavour to it. Chew Steel thought there might have been shrimp in the base.

My favourite dish was the Crispy Crepes ($14). I tried a version of this dish at Cuty in Dalhousie, and I wasn’t a fan. However, Paper Lantern’s version has converted me. Our order came with two golden brown turmeric crepes. As I bit into it, the crepe gave way to a steamy pile of pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and mung beans. The roasted sprouts, fragrant from the wok, added a smoky note that elevated every bite. Wrapped in lettuce and dunked in fish sauce, these crepes have texture, freshness, and umami. I would order them again.

Chew Steel and I found a new hangout. He was impressed with the cocktails and food. This is my third visit, and knowing who runs the kitchen, I know we can expect the same consistency in the future. As we left, I glanced through the kitchen window to catch an admiring glimpse of the female chef responsible for our delicious meal. Hitting the Sauce gives Danni’s parents two phat thumbs up. 


Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurantsdate nights, and cheap eats.

Bars/Lounges · Wine tasting

Avitus Wine Bar – Top Date Night Spot in Marda Loop

Last Monday, we wanted to get out and try somewhere new. I suggested Avitus, a tiny wine bar in Calgary’s Marda Loop neighbourhood. Chew Steel was game, so off we went. For this post, let’s listen to “Maneater” by Nelly Furtado.

Before we walked in, I warned Chew Steel that Avitus was a chick magnet. Usually, the men who show up look like they are on a hot date and aiming to impress. The bar is always full of women whooping it up—the ratio for every fearless man to woman is one to seven.

We sat at the only high table and started with a glass of wine. I tried the
Gun Metal Riesling ($16), a dry, minerally fruit-forward white wine. Chew Steel wanted a full-bodied wine and ordered a Pavillon De Trianon ($15). When I sipped his wine, I instantly got buyer’s remorse. Smooth and flavoured with infatuation, this is a bottle I would happily crush all night long.

For nibbles, we tried two cheeses, Delice de Bourgogne ($12), Comte ($12), Berkshire pork salami ($18), honey truffle ($4), carrots ($3), and a pickle ($3). The Delice De Bourgogne was Chew Steel’s favourite cheese; it was creamy and soft, oozing all over the bread. I liked the Comte because I’ve been more into nutty, hard cheeses lately. The truffle in the honey was dominant. The taste of truffle hit you first and then dissipated into the sweetness of the honey. I could taste a little smoke in the honey.

Chew Steel raved about the richness and chew of the salami. I thought the salami looked fattier than it tasted. The carrots were sweet, crunchy, and homemade. I enjoyed the juicy slices of the pickle, which helped cut into the salami’s fat.

We wanted another Pavillon De Trianon for our last glass of the night. However, fate is a cruel lover, and our server, who I suspect may be the owner, said there was no more. He suggested another wine that was similar but a little more refined, Chateau Beaumont ($17). While this wine was very good, I preferred our first red wine. The second wine tasted lighter and more delicate, but I like my wine with more of a punch.

I mentioned to Chew Steel that I would like to know what the owners of Cassis Bistro think of the wines and cheeses at Avitus Bar. It would be like Mozart and Beethoven meeting and reviewing each other’s work.

We had a great time trying new wines and cheeses. When we left, the bar was full of boisterous ladies jonesing for a good time. They know a good thing when they taste it. Hitting the Sauce gives Avitus two phat thumbs up.


Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurantsdate nights, and cheap eats.