Bars/Lounges · Beer · Restaurants · Vegetarian · Wings

Edinburgh review: Salt Horse – where to drink craft beer

We took a day trip to Edinburgh from Newcastle. It’s a 1.5-hour train ride away, and staying in Newcastle meant we saved around $500 on our hotel room. For this post, let’s listen to the Arctic Monkeys, Do I Wanna Know?.

My brother, Narc, strongly recommended visiting Edinburgh Castle (£24), and his wife suggested the Palace of Holyroodhouse (£25). However, he texted me “Hollywood”, so the entire time we were in Edinburgh, I told locals who asked me where I was going next that I was heading to Hollywood Castle, instead of “Haw-Lee-rood” Palace.

We arrived at the train station and walked up the Royal Mile. Holy, I’ve never seen such an impressive mile in my life. We walked down cobble streets aligned with towering medieval and Renaissance buildings. The piercing sound of bagpipes, mournful yet inspiring, almost stopped us in our tracks. The sight of the buildings, churches, and ancient castles was even more stunning to me than my visits to Dubrovnik or Greece. Chew Steel asked me if my father had ever visited Scotland. No, I responded, he hasn’t, likely because Scotland doesn’t have enough composers to compel him to fly over.

In no time, we made it to Edinburgh Castle, just as the rain began to fall. Not the warm summer rain I’m used to in Calgary, but a sharp, bone-cold drizzle that chilled my bare legs and arms like a bottle of wine. I miscalculated the weather. In Liverpool and Newcastle, a heatwave occurred, and I incorrectly assumed the weather would be warmer.

No worries, I wrongly thought again, as I would be warm once inside the castle.  Edinburgh Castle is perched on a rock, and most of the tour is outside, exploring the main gate, the open plaza, the main courtyard, and the artillery areas. The warmest spot was the prison, which was cozy with its puppet light show and rows of hammocks and blankets. I was shivering so badly I wanted to crawl into one of the beds.

I also realized too late why my brother liked this castle so much. It was all military-related: the Mons Meg, a medieval cannon; the One O’Clock Gun; and a section dedicated to a vast array of medals, swords, and other symbols of military valour. The castle was originally a royal residence, but it later evolved into a military fortress. Edinburgh itself has a very long military history.

When we left, the sun came out again and dried my clothes. For lunch, we headed to Salt Horse, which is located in the centre of the city, a few blocks away from all the action. We sat down, a table away from an Asian female and her Caucasian partner. This detail will make sense in the following paragraphs.

The bartender knows his craft, not just about the history of the brewery or the style of beer making, but also about current anecdotes related to certain bottles. I told him about a delicious raspberry I tried at the Broad Chare. He recommended I try Timmermans Black Pepper Lambicus (£6.80), a bubbly Belgian beer. Chew Steel ordered Kriek Boon (£6).

What a lovely beverage! Thick and fragrant, the black cherries tasted and smelled a little like fresh pink roses. The black pepper was subtle and complemented the dark fruit. I’m a fan. Chew Steel enjoyed his beer was well.

As we sipped our beers, our bartender dropped off a plate of wings at our table. I told him we hadn’t ordered this, and he looked genuinely puzzled. The woman sitting next to us chimed in, “That was ours.” He laughed and said, “Oh well, you can see why I got confused about who ordered what. Right?” He gestured to us and then to them. One interracial couple exchanged a glance with another, and a silent moment of recognition passed between us. I joked to our doppelgangers, “We all look alike.” She laughed and offered to share the wings, which was very Asian of her. I declined, even though I really wanted one, and introduced myself, because we’re probably related, somehow.

Her name was Lisa; she was originally from San Francisco and now lived in Paris. She and her husband were heading to Montreal and Quebec City. I gave them some travel tips — where to go and, just as importantly, where not to go. Lisa wished us goodbye, and her husband disclosed Lisa was after some haggis, as she’s a devout foodie. For once in my life, I bit my tongue, but my eyes registered with Lisa’s husband, and I nodded in understanding.

For food, Chew Steel and I both ordered the Bowhouse (£15), which features dry-aged beef and bone marrow, accompanied by homemade, twice-cooked fries. This is a tasty burger! I could taste the bone marrow in the patty, which complemented the dryish texture well. I would come here again.

After our meal, we made it down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, which was much more hospitable. The palace was full of interesting twists and turns, like the royal portraits and Mary, Queen of Scots’ private chambers, where her secretary was murdered by her husband. We finished the tour with a walk through the royal gardens.  

We checked out some other areas, famous streets, and the most impressive statue honouring writer Sir Walter Scott, housed under a towering Gothic structure. Exhausted, we headed back to Newcastle for the night. One more day in London and we were back home! To be continued.

Newcastle UK

Newcastle upon Tyne review: Geordie Bangers, The Broad Chare (Bib Gourmand) and Hen & Hops

We took a train from Liverpool to Newcastle. After we dropped off our luggage at the hotel, we searched for Grainger Market because I had read great things about the sausage rolls at Geordie Banger, a third-generation butchery family. Let’s listen to “Blur” by Parklife for this post.

Judging from the menus in Liverpool and Edinburgh, I could see locals are fond of their sausages and meat pies. I was curious, as my only experience with sausage rolls comes from the frozen ones by Schneiders, where the puff pastry is dry and papery, wrapped around a spongy, unappetizing filling. Frozen meat pies from Safeway aren’t much better, the crust is either tough and dry or undercooked and soggy.

Whelp, we Canadians have been missing out! Take a gander at these gorgeous sausages! The crust-to-sausage ratio is insane. And the texture of the meat and pastry was off the hook. With each bite, my teeth would sink through the crisp casing, releasing a flood of hearty, juicy flavour.

The Cumberland sausage roll was our favourite. The herbs tasted familiar, and the pork had a natural sweetness. The crust is minimal, thin and crispy, with just enough sturdiness to support the fatty goodness.

Everything we tried was so steaming hot that we burned our mouths eating it. I couldn’t believe a portion this big was only £3. The black pudding sausage had a creaminess and flavour profile that reminded me of pâté. The jalapeño was mild, adding just enough of a kick to wake up the taste buds.

The owner chatted with us and told us to go to Broad Chare. I already had it on my list, as it was recommended in the Michelin guide. And when we came back before returning to London, he gave me some free sausage rolls to take on our train ride back. Two hours later, the sausages were still warm. While I was eating, I noticed another passenger casting a jealous glance at mine. That’s right, I thought with glee, I’ve got a big one!

We walked to the Biscuit Factory, an art gallery that sells commercial art, crafts, and other designs. Formerly a Victorian warehouse, it was filled with contemporary art at reasonable prices.

Afterwards, we walked to Seven Stories, a national centre for children’s books. We strolled through several floors dedicated to British children’s literature. It started to rain, so we ducked into a nearby pub to enjoy a drink while the weather cleared.

Eventually, we made our way over to the Broad Chare. The crowd didn’t feel as warm and welcoming as in Liverpool. I was surprised to catch some older women casting wary glances in my direction. The only time I’ve gotten looks like this was at Avitus in Marda Loop.

I read on Broad Chare’s website that they offer a house beer that pairs well with all the food, so when I went up to order a round, I mentioned that I had heard the pub has a beer that complements all the food. The bartender said flat out, “I have no idea what you are talking about”. I asked if there were any house taps, and he pointed to the Writer’s Block, which I recognized immediately and requested. When I sat down, I looked up the website and found the passage I was referring to.

L went up for the next round and ordered me a raspberry beer (£6.60), which tasted like a raspberry smoothie. We also shared the Monkfish Cheeks (£8) and Scotch Egg (£8).

The Scotch egg was fantastic! Crunchy shell, jammy yolk, it fired off on all cylinders. The Monkfish cheeks were full of umami, and the meat was dense and firm. The homemade tartar sauce was also lovely.

While my raspberry beer was stellar, and I loved the food, we decided to leave and walk around the neighbourhood. The architecture in the city centre is stunning, a fascinating hodgepodge of historic buildings, statues, and churches from different eras.

It was also a Saturday night, and in Newcastle, that meant the streets came alive. I’d never seen anything quite like it. Hordes of women, both young and old, flooded the sidewalks, strutting confidently in head-turning outfits. Every pub was jam-packed, the air hot and humid. The nightclubs drew a slightly different crowd. All around, there was a chorus of hoots, hollers, and shouted greetings flying between groups.

After all the chaos outside, we found a quiet reprieve at Hen & Hops, a cosy little chicken‑and‑beer spot right by our hotel. Tame‑looking diners filled the snug space, totally removed from the raucous nightlife scene. It felt calming and safe from any mayhem.

I wasn’t hungry, but Chew Steel ordered a Chicken Burger (£14.50). I took a bite and enjoyed the onion jam and plump fried chicken filet. Crisp romaine, a huge piece of chicken, there’s a lot to like about this burger. I would return.

Overall, we enjoyed our short visit to Newcastle. We went to bed to get ready for our day trip to Edinburgh. To be continued.

Bars/Lounges · Liverpool · Special Occasion

Liverpool review: The Bridewell, Belzan (Bib Gourmand)

Chew Steel returned to our hotel room from his conference and saw me washed up and in bed, scrolling on my phone. He asked if I had eaten, and I said yes, I had gone to McDonald’s, but it was even worse than the one back home in Canada. He shook his head in disapproval and told me to get ready, as the night was still young. Let’s listen to “Hello, Goodbye” by the Beatles for this post.

Chew Steel took me to The Bridewell, a converted historic Victorian correctional facility now specializing in beer. I’m so glad I don’t live near this pub as it would be the death of me. The bones of Bridewell still reveal that it was once a police station, as the old cells with sliding doors are left intact to confine customers. I preferred sitting out in the main room, where I could see the bar and watch the crowd gather.

When Chew Steel bought me my first gin and soda (£5), I noticed several blueberries peeking out from the ice cubes. I used my compostable straw to poke out the berries, and later, when it disintegrated, I used my piano fingers to fish out the sugary balls of fruit. The fizz was clean and bubbly, while the gin was perfectly boozy and sweet from the blueberries.

I went up to get a second round, and I told our bartender how much I loved the garnish in my drink. He smiled and presented me with this masterpiece. Oh boy, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and orange slices! It was like a fruit salad topped with gin. I felt like I won the lottery. I leaned back and happily ate my fruit.

The next morning, I was on my own. I ventured over to Liverpool Cathedral, which is the largest cathedral in Britain and the fifth-largest in the world. Stepping into the cathedral was an experience. There was a heatwave, so the moment I entered, the cathedral’s cool hush was like a calming balm on my skin. It’s a vast sanctuary of towering columns and impossibly high ceilings, chapels and wooden carvings.

Multi-coloured stained glass windows bring your eyes up to the expansive stone and woodwork. I was surprised to learn that Liverpool Cathedral is relatively new because it looks so old. Construction began in 1904 and was completed in 1978.

Next, I walked over to another St. George’s Hall, but it was closed for a private function, and I didn’t want to buy tickets for a light show. I bought some biscuits from Marks & Spencer for my mom and dropped by the hotel to change. Chew Steel came back from his conference, and off we went to explore the streets before our dinner at Belzan, a Bib Gourmand restaurant in the suburbs.

Belzan is a must-visit spot. It’s a tiny restaurant, and from appearances, it seems to have been a café at one point. The modest room features a half-dozen small seats and a bar with a small countertop. The staff were exceptionally personable, recommending dishes and taking the time to describe the beer, wine and food in detail.

We both opted for the fixed-price menu (£40), which included a glass of wine, an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert. We added an extra course, the Guinness Rarebit Potato (£13). For our appetizers, we selected the Barbecued Courgette, Butterbean Hummus with Pine Nut Gremolata and Broad Beans with Goat Curds and Caramelized Honey.

A courgette is a type of summer squash, similar to zucchini, with a light, melon-like flavour. Initially, I thought this was an odd combination of ingredients, but the mint pesto and sweet raisins worked surprisingly well with the hummus, adding a pop of herby freshness and a touch of sweetness. I also liked the buttery taste of the roasted pine nuts.

The other appetizer was just as good. The broad beans were so sweet, perfectly blanched, so each bite was toothsome. I liked the stiffness of the creamy yogurt and the subtle sweetness of the honey. Simple and delicious.

The rarebit was interesting and our favourite appetizer. It tasted familiar yet surprisingly unique, similar to a delicate layered potato cake, but topped with a rich, heavy cheese sauce.

For our mains, we chose the Barbecued Pork Collar, served with Provençal Sauce and Paprika Aioli and the Steamed Sea Trout, with Vichyssoise, Watercress, and Mussels.

The steamed sea trout had a delicate freshness, tender and buttery, almost melting on the tongue. Its richness reminds me of salmon, flavourful and slightly fatty. I loved it. The mussels, on the other hand, were pickled, cold, and tart, which didn’t work for me personally.

The pork collar was really succulent, and I liked the smooth texture of the meat. The mustard added a gentle and clean flavour with no lingering aftertaste. I especially enjoyed the briny, salty bite from the olives and the tangy tomato sauce.

For dessert, we ordered English Strawberries, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream, Malt, and Chocolate Mousse with Hazelnuts and Rapeseed. The ice cream was light and icy, melting quickly on my tongue. The strawberries were stewed and juicy, topped with a buttery crumble. The combination reminded me of a McDonald’s strawberry sundae, but so much better.

Chew Steel took a bite of my ice cream and immediately got buyer’s remorse. I ended up switching desserts with him. While I love ice cream, nothing quite beats the silky richness of a good chocolate mousse. The whipped chocolate paired nicely with the crunchy hazelnuts. I looked up “rapeseed” as it sounded off-putting, and learned it comes from the Latin word rapum, meaning turnip, a distant relative in the plant family.

The meal at Belzan was one of the best we’ve had in a long time. Chew Steel wondered which restaurant in Calgary would be comparable. I heard Bar Gigi offers a similar vibe and style of food, though snagging a reservation there at a decent hour is nearly impossible. Either way, this experience has inspired me to visit Bar Gigi sometime soon. In any case, Hitting the Sauce gives Belzan two phat thumbs up.

Liverpool · Seafood

Liverpool review: Two stops – Johnny English and Yanni’s Fish and Chips

Chew Steel has a work thing in Liverpool, so I tagged along for a little June getaway. For this post, let’s listen to “Mr. Postman” by the Beatles.

We flew from Calgary to Heathrow and then took a series of trains to Liverpool. After we checked into our hotel, we headed out for some fish and chips. My first choice, Yanni’s, was closed for the day, so we supped at Johnny English Fish and Chips. You order at the front counter and then find yourself a seat.

We shared an order of large fish and chips (£11.50) and a pint of beer to accompany it (£6). The fish was fried to order, so we waited about 10 minutes. As long as a Subway sub and double in width, the batter on the fish was brittle and golden brown, so thick it almost overpowered the delicate notes of the fish. The fish was so hot I poked pieces apart and waited for it to cool. I noticed the piece I cut was much thinner than Chew Steel’s portion, which was at least twice as thick. I started forking into his portion to reach the denser white flesh.

The chips were extra crispy on the outside and pillowy soft on the inside. At nearly four times the size of Canadian fries, they had a deeper, more authentic potato flavour. I prefer these fatter, stockier UK-style chips over our thinner Canadian ones.

We capped the night with beer at Albert’s Schenke with Chew Steel’s colleague, BK, and his sister, Daisy. The staff were extra welcoming. I found the vast majority of people I interacted with in Liverpool were exceptionally friendly.

While Chew Steel worked the next morning, I took a Liverpool Heritage, History & Culture Guided Walking Tour ($44). I was the only one on the tour, so my guide, Paul, a recently retired math professor, gave me a private tour.

I’ve had tours by drama majors, and it’s always fun. However, with a math professor, it was a different beast. There’s no whimsy or frivolity. Paul was all about historical accuracy and would test me on the meaning and value of numbers so I could visualize the enormity of the industry throughout Liverpool’s maritime history. I learned how the docks played a significant role in the city’s development and economy, as did Liverpool’s investment in the slave trade with the Confederate States of America.

It was a hot morning, so we stopped in the shade and visited historical places, such as the Cunard Building, the Port of Liverpool Building, and the Liver Building. The architecture was deliberately designed to impress all who entered, from sailors seeking letters to those engaged in all acts of commerce.

I asked Paul how it felt to transition from lecturing on mathematics to history, and he said it was nice to move from teaching something no one wanted to take to something people genuinely have an interest in. Some of the last stops were more solemn and sad. He talked about the city’s ties to slavery, from the capture of the very last Confederate vessel in Liverpool to a more recent event in which Confederate sympathizers came to Liverpool to celebrate their heritage and put up a plaque honouring Confederate soldiers.

We walked over to St Nicholas’ Church Gardens. Paul stopped by a bench and pointed to a bronze sculpture of what appeared to be a man wrapped in a blanket lying on a bench. He pointed to the wounds on the man’s feet from being nailed to a crucifix. Paul explained how the Canadian Christian artist sculpted a homeless man to represent Jesus and detailed the pope’s reaction to the sculpture.

Paul switched over to the Beatles and gestured to the sculpture of all four musicians. He referenced a picture of two people taking a photo with the statues and Paul McCarthy photobombing them in their picture. After two and a half hours of walking and learning, I headed to Yanni’s for fish and chips.

This chippery gets a lot of love from the local newspaper, the Echo. I ordered a large piece of fish (£7.50) and waited about ten minutes. I ordered fish only, but I was still bestowed some complimentary chips!

The batter was lighter and thinner than Johnny’s Fish and Chips, and the fish was sweeter. The chips were softer and had a fresh potato taste. Overall, I preferred the texture and flavour of the fish at Yanni’s to those at Johnny’s.

I booked a second tour for the afternoon. Next up was the Mystery Beatles Bus Tour ($44), which turned out to be a mixed experience. Things got off to an awkward start when the tour guide and bus driver had to step in and scold a few guests who were jostling to get on board, “We’ll all get on—please be civil.”

The guide himself looked a bit weary at first, but once the tour began, he perked up and did a great job narrating the stories behind the songs and landmarks we passed—Strawberry Field, Penny Lane, and the former homes of the band members.

What let the tour down was the sound system. For a tour centred on the Beatles’ history and music, I expected higher audio quality. Instead, the music came through like it was playing from the CD/tape combo system my dad bought me in the 90s. I sat in the very front, and even then, the sound was muffled and flat. The bus was stifling, and the landmark stops were more like peeking through a keyhole and then jumping back on the bus. In hindsight, I should have booked a walking tour. I would have seen less but learned more.

The tour ended with a free pass to the Cavern Pub. Based on what I’d read, I expected something like a UK version of a Nashville watering hole, buzzing with live music and atmosphere. I stayed for two performers. I made the mistake of requesting “Paperback Writer,” which I learned is not the sort of song you ask from a performer without a band. I ended the evening with a meal at McDonald’s because, at least there, I knew what kind of disappointment to expect.

Brunch · Burgers · Vietnamese

Where to eat in Calgary: Bastion Burgers, Holy Grill and Pure Saigonese

August 2026 update: Pure Saigonese’s restaurant has closed as of August 30, but you can still enjoy their food at their market stall inside First Street Market or order catering directly from them.

Five Stars is back! Chew Steel and I picked him up at the airport. We stopped by to show filial piety to our parents and then Ubered out to try the burgers at Bastion Burgers. Let’s listen to Smalltown Boy by Bronski Beat for this post.

Bastion is located in PinBar, a bar that reminded me a little of the now-defunct Cambie Hostel in Vancouver, from the pleasantly drawn graffiti in the washroom stalls to the moody shadows in the room.

We sat ourselves, and shortly after, our server stopped by. Five Stars ordered a regular iced tea ($6), and I ordered a hard iced tea ($15). Curious, he sipped my cocktail and winced, squealing it tasted like rubbing alcohol. I shared the O.G. Smashy ($13) and the American Cheese ($14) with Five Stars.

The O.G. was smaller than the American Cheese, as it wasn’t stacked because it didn’t come with lettuce and tomato. The caramelized onions made it taste more savoury and sweet. Five Stars noted that the skirt was perfect on the patty, teetering on burnt and ultra-thin.

The American Cheese was the star of the two. Five Stars fawned over the crisp, lacy layers of the smashed patties. The layers of beef made the burgers unique. But what won me over was the full-on beef flavour and the hot melted orange cheese that stuck to my teeth, balanced against the perfect proportion of chilled tomato, lettuce, and onion. Each bite was decadent yet refreshing. Five Stars exclaimed he could taste each distinct layer of meat, sauce, vegetable, and the bun.

I asked Five Stars if the American cheeseburger beat Class Clown’s. He said he’d need a side-by-side taste test as it had been a while since his last visit. Still, he admitted Bastion was easily on par. Class Clown has the edge with its killer wine list, but the absurd waitlist is brutal.

The side of the tater tots was ultra crunchy and hot from the fryer. Five Stars liked garlic aioli and dipping the crisp edges of the beef into it. I would get the tots and the American Cheese again. Five Stars was already planning his next visit before we’d even finished.

The next day, I took Five Stars to Holy Grill. I’ve had my eye on this Calgary classic for years. My brother-in-law Dave swears by the burgers, and I’ve eaten their food when I worked at Bow Valley Square. The building would throw parties for all the employees; their caterer was Holy Grill. The food is straight-up legit. I remember one spread with pizza, burgers, skewers, calamari, mussels, and other delights. Everything tasted homemade. I parked myself by the table and ate like Honey Boo Boo before a pageant.

I like the simplicity of the setup at Holy Grill on 10 Ave SW. You go up to the kitchen to order and pay. Five Stars wanted to try the eggs benedict ($18.99) with smash browns, while I picked the beef dip panini ($19.89). I requested soft eggs, which arrived with warm orange yolks that were runny when poked. He was especially thrilled by the little jar of extra hollandaise. He’s always griping that most places skimp on it, so he thought it was a thoughtful move by Holy Grill to throw in a bonus pour.

The panini was stacked with thin slices of roast beef and melted mozzarella. The shell was crunchy, while the beef dip added a soft, wet kiss of beefy broth. Five Stars praised the juicy beef slices and said he’d return for the same dishes. I preferred Five Stars smash browns over the fries I got with my panino. The potatoes were crunchy on the outside while the inside was hot and meltingly soft. We’ll be back, but I’m adding a burger to the lineup next time.

For dinner, Chew Steel and I took Five Stars to Pure Saigonese. But first, we stopped at Side Hustle for a drink. It’s my favourite lounge in the city. Maybe it’s the welcoming all-female crew, the laid-back crowd, or the safe vibe from the combination of all the above.

After, we moseyed over to Pure Saigonese and finally met the famous Matt. If you look at Google’s reviews, you will see that more than half of the customers are gushing about his service. I’ll admit, I thought his friends were behind those rave reviews, especially since, on previous visits, the service of the non-Matts didn’t quite match the high standard of the food. But Matt is the real deal. He is professional, helpful, and busy hustling to manage the entire restaurant.

Since we ordered drinks, wings were half off ($8), so we took advantage and ordered house salted chili and chili lime nuac. The chili lime guac cham batter was buttery and sweet, with the tiniest tingle of heat. The house-seasoned chili chicken wings were good as well, though tamer. The batter reminds me of Church’s chicken. Size-wise, the wings are bigger than pub wings but not as fat as Lonely Mouth.

I always order the shrimp mango papaya salad ($12) and the shrimp tempura ($15). Our plate contained four mega-charred prawns. I love the contrast between the wildly crunchy vegetables, peanuts, and sweet-tart dressing.

Everyone’s favourite was the seafood rice ($20). What hooked me was the unbeatable trio of real Dungeness crab, shrimp, and tobiko. The generous chunks of flaky white crab meat tasted sweet and delicate, and combined with those chewy grains of rice and those briny bursts of tobiko, I couldn’t stop shovelling the rice into my mouth.

Five Stars is on a rigorous diet, borderline unhealthy, but even he couldn’t resist. He complained that the food was so good he couldn’t stop eating like a pig. Lam should patent the seafood fried rice. I usually don’t order fried rice, as I make a good one at home. However, nothing beats Lam’s top-notch ingredients. This one’s a game-changer.

Lam Pham came out to say hi and dropped off a treat for us – the roasted duck crostini ($12). The crostini was lightly toasted and airy, while the pate was creamy and not overpowering. Five Stars thought it tasted like a duck Yorkshire pudding, like a Sunday roast, but not as heavy. Chew Steel raved about this bite, even though he’s not usually a pate guy. He just returned from Vietnam and said the food at Pure Saigonese is as good or even better than what he had in Vietnam.

My older brother Narc is coming to pay homage to my parents in July. I’m not 100% sure where I’ll take him yet, but it feels like a case worth investigating. Somewhere where the flavour is worth interrogating, and the BBQ meat doesn’t crack under pressure. To be continued.