For my birthday, Chew Steel and I checked out Francine’s, a new French restaurant that opened up in Chinatown. I’ve eaten at Francine’s before at a pop-up and a special event dinner, so I knew we were in for a treat. Let’s listen to Paradise by Sade for this post.
I made reservations at the last minute, so I was only able to secure bar seats at 5:15 p.m. As it was so early in the evening, we weren’t super hungry and just ordered two mains, the Steak Frites ($39.95) and the Smoky Trout and Crepes ($42.95). I wanted to try the trout dish because I read an Instagram post by the chef/owner, Garrett Martin, about his creative process for creating some of the dishes.
We started with a cocktail, a Francine’s martini ($17) for me and a Crepe Suzette Old-Fashioned ($16) for Chew Steel. The ice-cold gin-forward martini was aromatic and herby, marked with a distinct note of fennel. As we sipped, I noticed how quickly the room filled on a Tuesday evening. An older Asian couple sat beside us. It was cute to watch him, intently absorbed watching a YouTube video on his phone while his partner quietly ate, content in her own private little world.
The steak frites were among the best I’ve ever had. I don’t want to be dramatic, but the steak here is a must-eat-before-you-die type of experience. The bavette butcher’s steak was beautifully textured, sliced thin yet generously wide, with a charred, rugged exterior and a ruby-red interior that offered a juicy chew. The peppercorn glaze was rich and smooth, with a peppery bite that cut through the steak.
The fries were ridiculously delicious, golden and light, with an ultra-crunchy shell giving way to a whipped potatoey centre. Jordan, our bartender, nailed the wine pairings. For the steak, he paired it with a glass of Cabernet Franc (Domaine La Paleine, $10, 3oz).
The trout was soft and smoky, with a flavour profile reminiscent of salmon. We tore off a piece of crepe and wrapped it around a piece of trout, two types of pickled onion, cucumber, bright green spinach and chives. Each bite was decadent, drippy and messy.
The trout reminded me of Neptune’s famous johnny cakes, but the flavours were more refined. There wasn’t anything fishy or overly sweet. The combination of what I thought were unusual ingredients blew me away. The flavours were rounded and worked so well together that it made me think of head chef Koji Kobayashi’s fine-dining creations at Sukiyaki House. Jordan selected a bright white wine (Juste Le Blanc, Jurancon Sec $8.50, 3 oz) that cut through the smokiness and the decadent white sauce.
The mains are a generous portion, but I still wanted dessert. We shared the French Toast ($12.95) with honey-caramel, honey ice cream, and 15-month Comte cheese, paired with a glass of sherry (Moscatel Peromesa Jerez Valdespino, $13).
The dessert is worthy of Michelin recognition. The thick-cut bread was warm and eggy, layered with sweet, cold ice cream and topped with salty flakes of cheese. This dish, as well as the two before, had us licking our lips and scraping the plate for every last drop of caramel.
How good was the food? So damn fine, I sent Lovegastro, Quebecoise, Betty, Kournikova, Juliejuliehu and Divine Offering text messages raving about Francine’s and making future plans to revisit.
How indulgent was the food? I had a chemo follow-up appointment the very next day and had gained two pounds. I’m not sure whether that jump was due to fluid and inflammation or to the peppercorn glaze, but I choose to believe it was the sauce doing the heavy lifting.
The crowning glory is the value. For this level of cooking, the prices make Francine’s an easy choice any night of the week, not just for special occasions. Wines matched to each course are $6–10, and the steak frites is priced below lower than chains like The Keg and Cactus Club. Go, you won’t regret it!
Hitting the Sauce 