Category: Seafood

Boston · Seafood

Boston review: Neptune Oyster – Worth the wait

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I booked our second tour, Freedom Trail: Small Group Tour of Revolutionary Boston. While I’m an avid reader, when exploring a new city, I prefer the experience of being guided to major historical points. It also helped that our guide, Drew just finished his degree from the Boston Fine Arts Theatre Arts. His flair for drama enriched the stories he recounted on our tour. For this post, let’s listen to “Freedom 90′” by George Michael. 

The significant points of interest for me were the Old South Meeting House, where the famous Boston Tea Party began and the Old State House, where the speeches sparked the rebellious acts of defiance. Drew walked us over to Little Italy, where we passed Paul Revere House, the oldest building in Boston, and then concluded the tour with a patriotic speech overlooking Bunker Hill. 

At around 1:00 p.m., I dragged my beloved to Neptune Oyster, but the line was so long that we wandered over to a pub for a beer and fries. By the time we returned, around 2:15 p.m., the line was shorter. We waited about 40 minutes, and in that time, I regaled the customers in front and behind me of the delicious gloriousness that awaited them at Neptune Oyster. I could tell that waiting in line exhausted L, as he was still tired from the day before, and my hyping up crowds under the scorching sun didn’t help.

When we received our drinks, there were some empty seats around us. The mood changes when it’s not jam-packed with customers. Employees clustered around regulars and chatted with them about their day. An employee slipped out of the kitchen and sat at the bar to enjoy a meal. There’s nothing more comforting in my eyes than an employee taking a moment to eat a meal at their workplace. 

I tried L’s beer, which was the best pint on the trip. I enjoyed the tiny bubbles and clean flavour profile ($11). I tried the rose ($14) from the day before, as our server recognized me and remembered that “everyone was drinking that rose that day.”

I ordered four of the Cherrystone clams ($2.90) while encouraging L to try the oysters ($3-3.50). Ah, the clams were just as good as yesterday, salty, sweet and tasting of the ocean. The plump meat was cold with a satisfying chew to it. L noted Neptune’s oysters were far better than the Bostonia Public House. 

Next, we supped on Bluefin Tuna ($21). The tuna was buttery and smooth, but it was the addition of the crunchy seeds and salt made the crudo pop. I liked the dollop of olive oil and nutty flavour from the sunflowers. 

We ordered the Neptune Johnnycake ($19); I knew immediately he would like it. L has a sweet tooth, and nothing makes him happier than dessert. Holy smokes, this is a winning dish. 

We sat silently, slowly picking away the cake, enjoying the sweet, savoury flavours. The contrast between the honey butter, creamy smoked fish puree and sturgeon caviar was unusual and delicious. L raved that this was the best dish he’s eaten on the trip. He loved the crispy texture and the unique flavour combination. 

For dessert, I ordered Fried Clams ($28). I don’t think Neptune, the godly chef from the previous day, cooked this order of clams. It might have been his apprentice because while it was good, it wasn’t out of this world like it was when I first tried it. The difference was that the clams weren’t as fat, and the batter was crisper, so it didn’t crumble and melt in my mouth like the last time. The clam belly was firmer, more like a standard fried oyster than a jiggly gift from the sea.

As my new friends from the lineup left the restaurant, they came to thank me for my recommendations. Perhaps I missed my true calling as a hype person for rap music. L agreed with me that Neptune is worth the lengthy lineup. I tried to pay for the meal, but L swiped my hand away and told me to quit it. Thank you, L, for humouring me and taking me out one last time at Neptune Oyster. Hitting the Sauce gives Neptune Oyster two phat thumbs up. 

Boston · Chinatown · Chinese · Seafood

Boston review: Peach Farm

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I booked a Ghosts & Gravestones Trolley Tour when L returned to the hotel. I knew this would be a silly excursion, but I was curious about the small cemeteries scattered throughout the downtown core. For this post, let’s listen to “Smokin” by Boston.

The tour was corny, and the stories were grossly exaggerated (and historically inaccurate). Still, we had fun jumping on and off the bus and stopping by the Granary Burying Ground and King’s Chapel Burying Ground. Walking through the grounds, we learned a little about the American patriots who died in the battle of Bunker Hill. We stopped by the graves of Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and Robert Treat Paine. The latter three were signers of the Declaration of Independence. The tour would have been more fun in October, with a cooler temperature and the smell of autumn in the air. 

As it was late when we finished our tour, I suggested we try Peach Farm, located in Chinatown. All the employees were friendly, welcoming and attentive. We ordered Lobster with Green Scallion and Ginger ($60), Clams in Black Bean Sauce ($23), Shrimp Chowmein ($16), Steamed Rice ($2) and two beers ($12).

The clams arrived quickly. I liked eating the saucy clams with steamed rice, as the simplicity of hot white rice accents the meatiness of the clams and the saltiness of the black bean sauce. I enjoyed the clams but was annoyed to find a bit of sand in a couple, as the grating texture was off-putting. 

The lobster was so hot the shells blistered my fingers. The meat popped out easily from its red claws. The lobster meat was fresh tasting, with a pleasing toothsome crunch. The ginger and scallion sauce was buttery, luscious, and so messy our server dropped off some extra napkins. I couldn’t help but think of my family when I ate my lobster, as my mom always ordered both king crab and lobster at our monthly dinners. Back then, the rationale for ordering such extravagant seafood dishes was simply because we were out. My mother, Boss Lady, has an extreme personality. For her, it’s go big or don’t go out at all. 

I was content with supping on the clams and lobster with rice, but L was channeling Boss Lady and wanted another dish. I found the chow mein lacklustre. The shrimp was rubbery and tasteless. The sauce itself was void of seasoning or wok hey. This dish was crying out for some MSG! I felt like David, the friendly regular from Neptune Oyster, in that I wanted to tell L that I make a better chow mein at home. 

Overall, I enjoyed my meal. Service was warm and sincere, which made up for the chow mein. Judging from the crowd, Peach Farm is a popular restaurant for everyone, from families, dates, regulars to tourists. I left stuffed and not crabby, as I was full of lobster.

Boston · Restaurants · Seafood

Boston review: Raw oysters at Neptune Oyster

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On Sunday, L was gone for the entire day. I originally planned to visit Martha’s Vineyard but didn’t want to be stuck on a tour bus for hours, so instead, I opted to check out the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts. Before L left, he asked me to please be aware of my surroundings. I told him honestly that I couldn’t promise him that, but not to worry as I planned to Uber everywhere. Let’s listen to “West End Girls” by the Pet Shop Boys. 

The Gardner Museum was something special. I walked through the entrance garden through rooms filled with international treasures. I didn’t feel like I was in a museum but a very wealthy woman’s house. I preferred how there were no descriptions in the Gardner Museum, as I realized reading takes away from the visual experience. I spent about two hours wandering through the halls and floors because every time there were loud children, I would run out to enjoy the serenity in the quieter rooms, then return when I was alone again.

My next stop was the Museum of Fine Arts. I found this museum too large to absorb in one afternoon. The setup confused me as you would enter a hallway and go through a series of doors, then at the end, turn to the left or right to repeat the experience. I spent most of my time admiring the Art of Ancient Greece, Rome, the Byzantine Empire, Dutch and Flemish Art, and Masterpieces of Egyptian Sculpture from the Pyramid Age. 

At around 2:30 p.m., I decided to check out Neptune Oyster. The wait was only half an hour, as there’s a sweet spot after lunch and before dinner when it’s less busy. The hostess was welcoming and told me I was lucky to sit at the bar as a friendly regular, and two employees were seated to my left. To my right were two women who looked annoyed to be next to me, even though they wanted to sit at the bar. 

I asked my server to recommend a white wine to pair with oysters, and she suggested the Muscat ($13). I ordered four medium-sized oysters, a Littleneck and a Cherrystone clam. I looked around to figure out what to order next, but I arrived at a lull and could only see plates of oysters and lobster rolls. 

The friendly regular and the two employees were drinking glasses of rose. I could tell by watching them that the wine tasted better than mine. Their carefree smiles glowed as they gulped down the pink liquid. The server would continuously fill up their glasses from what appeared to be a bottomless bottle. For my next glass, I asked to drink what they were drinking, and it was a far superior wine ($14).

I asked the friendly regular next to me what he recommended. David paused dramatically and then went into a full-on gourmet speech, just like David Chang and Anthony Bourdain in the Netflix food documentaries. It may be an American thing, but they are much more passionate when speaking. 

 I asked David’s opinion on Neptune’s lobster rolls, and he said a lobster roll is a lobster roll; it’s simply lobster and bread. He and his son can make a fantastic one at home, so when he comes to Neptune’s, he’s looking for something different. I quizzed him about the fried clams, and he said the fried clams are great, but he can get excellent fried clams right in his neighbourhood. Exasperated, I explained that I was only around for a few days and couldn’t make lobster rolls at home, and there wasn’t a famous clam place where I lived. He pondered a little and offered me a sample of his soft-shell crab ($24), which I found delicate.

The oysters ($2.90-$3.50) were pristine and immaculately shucked. However, it was the clams that blew me away. The Littleneck was sweet and tender, while the Cherrystone was salty with a bouncy chew, with a texture between a squid and scallop. 

I told David that the clams were far superior than I could get in Vancouver. He quoted Barack Obama’s speech on how Boston is one of America’s iconic and world’s finest cities. Americans are patriotic. I’ve never referenced our prime ministers except to mention Trudeau wears excellently tailored suits. Swoosh, swoosh, swoosh, that’s the sound his jacket and pants make as he walks by. 

I showed David my list of to-go places, and he told me not to bother with Toro. He’s never heard of Yankee Lobster; James Hook is good, but again, not as good as he can make it (with browned butter), and Oleana in Cambridge is worth the trek. He recommended Peach Farm and has tried the king crab. 

I chose the Fried Clams ($28), and oh my goodness, the chef must be the god of the sea, Neptune himself, because never have I ever eaten such perfectly cooked clams. The clams were giant, like a cluster of oysters stuck together like enoki tempura. Sublimely cooked, the center of the clam was still milky and eggy. The other parts of the clam were pleasantly chewy. The flavour of the meat was sweet and briny, with a crispy exterior protecting the fat, creamy belly meat. I would get this again.

I also tried a bite of David’s lobster burrata ($43). This dish reminded me of the creations I tried at Le Pappilion in Montreal. The herby fragrance from the basil popped against the subtle flavour of the burrata and sweet lobster meat. The portion was large enough for two. I would get this again as well. 

When I told the two employees beside David I was returning the next day, they suggested the crudo and Johnny Cakes. I pondered out loud if I should return to Neptune for every meal in my remaining time. David shook his head and strongly recommended going to Oleana and sitting on the patio. It turns out he was right. What an introduction to the high quality shellfish in Boston. Unbelievable! And to be continued. 

French · Restaurants · Seafood · Special Occasion

Montreal review: Vin Mon Lapin

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Last week, I visited Montreal with my friends Emerald and Envy. The last time I was in Montreal was thirteen years ago when I was a broke student. I was excited that this time around, I could explore the local cuisine. For this post, let’s listen to “Thinking Out Loud ” by Ed Sheeran.

Obtaining a reservation to Vin Mon Lapin, Emerald’s suggestion, took a lot of work. Recently rated #1 of Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants, no openings were available even though I tried to book the day the spots were released. After several failed attempts on their waitlist, I did manage to snag a 9:45 pm on Wednesday.

We arrived on time and were seated on the patio behind the restaurant. Our server steered us to a stellar natural organic Spanish wine, Vernatxa Instint Primari Friasch, from Terra Alta, Catalonia ($91). This white wine was the best bottle we tried on the entire trip. I found it textured, light and fresh, with a refreshing acidity. This wine was so good, I drank every single drop in my glass.

As we drank our wine and soaked up the evening heat, we noticed things were slower in Montreal. At 10:30 pm, a different server saw our ravenous eyes telepathically begging for a Snickers bar. He came to take our order, and we picked our dishes based on the first server’s vivid and enthusiastic descriptions.

Our first dish set the night, Poireaux ($14). The leek stalks stood straight, packed in sardines in a tin. The marinade tasted clean and grassy oil. Emerald enjoyed the fresh, balanced flavour. Envy found the leeks smooth and savoury. I just liked that I was eating something unusual (to me) and enjoyed the additional crunch from the leek’s accompaniment, potato chips.

Envy and Emerald were impressed with the leek mussels, as it was different from a dish you would find in Calgary. Envy mentioned that Calgary is stronger with game meat because that’s locally available.

I was most excited to try the Corque ($24). The scallop sandwich was friggin incredible. The scallops were silky and smooth, highlighted by the outer layer of delicately crunchy bread. What a treat! Envy doesn’t eat carbs, so I ate her toast. The scallop dish was my favourite dish of the night.

Emerald and Envy loved the Tomate Beuf ($22). The tomato beef was another winner; it tasted sweet, ripe, and tomatoey. In Alberta, we are spoiled with excellent beef, so it was interesting to see that this version of beef tartar highlighted the quality of the fruit more than the meat. It takes some magic to get tomatoes to taste like this. Props to the chef.

Another server came to move us to the dining room for a different experience. I said it was a sweet gesture out loud, and Envy wryly informed me it was because the patio closes at 11:00 pm. Her stark and accurate realism altered my more romantic interpretation, but she agreed that being inside provided an improved experience once seated.

Inside, we met Samuel, a boyish server who recommended other wines by the glass and talked up the chefs responsible for all the deliciousness we ate. I asked for his name to credit him on my blog, but after I realized I may have given cougar vibes. Poor Samuel.

The Laitue ($20) was poetically described, so I was disappointed to learn it was just a salad. While it was a nice herby mix, I would have preferred a second order of any of the previous three dishes instead.

Envy took some of the Porc ($34) and thought it was excellent. I liked the contrast between the soft and crunchy fat on the pork belly. My pictures are worse than usual because Envy and Emerald were so hungry, and I didn’t want them to wait. Next time, I want my friend Lululemon to come. Sometimes she sees my photos and takes my phone to redo it.

The halibut was cooked so the white flesh was hot and soft. Envy approved of our second main, the Fletan ($42). I found the flavour of the fish delicate and perfectly cooked, almost velvety in texture. Envy said she would order this again.

Emerald picked a delicious Torte ($15) for dessert. The cake was coated in a warm, fluffy chocolate sauce. The espresso and rich chocolate reminded me of Coffee Crispy, my favourite childhood candy bar, but much better in every possible way.

I’m glad we were able to check out Vin Mon Lapin. It was worth the repetitive cycle of receiving notifications, frantically checking only to find the offer expired, until finally securing a spot. The food was delightful, and the wine was something special. Hitting the Sauce gives Vin Mon Lapin two phat thumbs up.

If you are looking for other restaurant recommendations, check out my Montreal picks.

Japanese · Seafood · Special Occasion · Sushi

Sukiyaki House Calgary Kaiseki Dinner: A Rare Japanese Tasting Menu Experience

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Sukiyaki House occasionally hosts kaiseki dinners, multi-course Japanese tasting menus that are harder to book than a regular reservation. Here’s what the experience is like, and whether it’s worth it.

L and I finally made it to one of Chef Koji Kobayashi’s kaiseki dinners. Koji spent weeks working on the menu, as this was the first big event since COVID. We counted roughly 30 customers in attendance, a mix of couples on dates and regulars who you see throughout the evening, genuinely appreciating Koji’s creations.

Every guest sat at their table, as the restaurant was closed to the general public. When we were seated, I could sense the excitement in the air, similar to the tension you feel moments before the conductor waves his baton before his orchestra. I was downright giddy from anticipation. Let’s listen to some appropriately Zen-like music.

L and I added the sake sommelier pairings ($60), comprising 15 ounces of alcohol to match with Koji’s seasonally influenced eight-course meal. Our photos do not do the food justice. Check out Sukiyaki House’s Instagram photos to get a sense of the caliber of the presentation of the dishes. 

The sakizuke comprised four elements: daikon smoked salmon, mozuku seaweed, okra and edamame pure, and temari sushi. Judith paired the appetizer with Tenbi, Tokubetsu Janmai Genshu. The smoked salmon was bright with lemon and crunchy from the daikon. The cup of seaweed was phenomenal, cool, slippery and delicate. The flavour reminded me of walking into a tranquil forest. I had never tasted anything like it and worked to get every last strand of seaweed.  

The ossuimono consisted of minazuki tofu, seared uni, jyunsai (water shield) and lime. The soup was full of distinctly Japanese flavours. Light and lovely, I would pick out the juicy little sea treasures and then sip on the beautiful broth. The soup was my favourite dish; it was so sensual in flavour and texture. 

The munkozuke was a showstopper, Japanese halfbeak with yuzo and shiso. Twisted in circle, the spine of the whole fish encircled the sashimi. L loved the showmanship of knife skills and the freshness of the sashimi. The yuzu foam was dreamy, a fresh and gentle complement to the delicate, clean white fish. The soy pairing was familiar, and the contrast made the flavour pop. Judith paired the sashimi with Senki Muku, Junmai Daiginjo.

The takiawase was outstanding. My meat-loving, eggplant and tomato-hating husband was so impressed he declared the cold-style dish his favourite of the night. The eggplant was silky and smoky, gorgeously rich and luxurious. The tomato was plump and so refined in flavour that I couldn’t believe what I was tasting. Between sips of Hououbiden Kanbashi, I would slowly nibbled on the generous scattering of black truffles.

The yakimono course reminded me of the fall season. The grilled miso snapper was adorned with crispy fish scale chips and seaweed paste, reminding me of a cold October night. I loved the char on the baby corn and the giant crunchy spot prawn.

Before our shizakana course, we could smell the grounding fragrance of burning wood. I noticed the classical Japanese music was curated to each course at a volume low enough that my Shazam app couldn’t detect. Our plate of A5 Japanese Wagyu was decorated with a quail egg, foie gras mousse, lotus root chips and emerald-green fiddleheads. The foie gras melted in my mouth like whipped cream, salty and full of umami. Judith paired this dish and the next one with Terada Honke, Junmai.

The gohan mono was a rice dish of marinated squid, caviar, tamago and burock. The dark sauce was heavy and sweet. I enjoyed the combination of the sticky rice and salty crunch from the tobiko. We drank warm cups of sake, which heated me up like a good cup of tea.

The final course, mizumono, was a fun way to end the series. The vanilla ice cream was sandwiched with red beans and strawberries. Koji said the red beans would ward off evil spirits. When I saw how much L enjoyed his dessert, I gave him mine to eat as well. I loved the pairing drink, hojicha infused sochu, a concoction of tea, cold brew coffee and Kahlua. 

I would recommend if you want a rare, high-end Japanese tasting experience. L and I were impressed with all the skill, imagination and beauty that went into each dish. The dinner took a tremendous amount of effort and coordination from all the staff, and we appreciated the performance. We look forward to the next kaiseki. Thank you, Koji and L, for a glorious experience.

Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.