Cheap Eats · Tokyo

Tokyo review: Harajuku Gyoza Lou

There was a famous gyoza joint I was planning to take Chew Steel to, but when I looked the location up, it wasn’t convenient enough to fit into our schedule. Instead, we went to Harajuku Gyoza Lou, a restaurant his student recommended to his other student, who then took me years ago. Let’s listen to “Like a Surgeon” for this post.

Harajuku Gyoza Lou is very popular with tourists, most likely due to its location and ease of ordering from their picture friendly menus. The prices are dirt cheap, too.

When we waited in line, a gaggle of female tourists came skipping over. They were my age but wearing pigtails and eye-catching dresses. One of the women came over asked the guy ahead of me if this was the waiting line for gyoza. He nodded. Her friends lined while she sat on the stairs outside the restaurant, opened her colouring book and began drawing. Her friend came over and snapped pictures while she looked up, her forty-year-old plus face smiling coyly to the camera. I noticed all her friends wielded selfie sticks.

Once I got a seat and took a long gulp of my drink, my mood improved. My bubbly lemon sour was refreshing and potent; and it was only 530 ¥. Chew Steel’s draft beer was 580 ¥. How could you not be happy under these conditions?

You can order the dumplings fried or steamed. We tried all three dumplings: chives and garlic, plain, and shiso. An order comes with six dumplings (¥ 390), and when all the damage was done, Chew Steel and I averaged about a dozen each. We watched as the gyoza master lined up trays of dumplings and monitored the massive sizzling cooking process.

We ordered our dumplings fried. To me, that’s the only way to go. The crispness of the wrapper was part of the appeal, when your teeth broke into the thin skin. Chew Steel made me a dipping sauce, combining the chili oil, vinegar and soy sauce on the counter. The shiso in the gyoza dumpling was fragrant and sweet, reminding me a little of fresh basil.

My favourite version was the garlic and chive, while Chew Steel preferred the simplicity of the regular filling. Chew Steel recommended popping the entire dumpling in your mouth, so the juices would remain in your mouth and not the plate.

I loved the cucumber with miso sauce (¥290) so much that I ordered a second helping to go with my last order of dumplings. The chilled cucumbers were ultra-crunchy and intensely melon-like. With the tangy, nutty and buttery miso, I thought the cucumber could spar with the gyoza for the best snack of the trip. We liked the food so much that we returned on the last day of our trip.

Hitting the Sauce gives Harajuku Gyoza Lou two phat thumbs up and her startling rage at Instagrammers who should know better two phat thumbs down. “Yoisho! Yoisho! Yoisho!”

Planning a trip? See more in Where to Eat While Travelling: Restaurants Worth the Detour, including Tokyo picks.

Tokyo

Tokyo review: Iroriya Higashiginzaten (Ginza): Worth seeking out

I spent months looking for new places to eat in Tokyo, but my prerequisite was no lineups, eliminating many good restaurants. While waiting for great food can be worth it, I wanted to avoid all the super-hyped spots that TikTok made inaccessible. Tokyo is so busy and crowded that the last thing I wanted to do was stand outside a restaurant for hours. Let’s listen to “Who Hoo” for this post.

I picked Iroriya Higashiginzaten because I could make an online reservation. What appealed to me were the reviews about their famous ikura bowl. If you order it, the staff comes out with taiko drums and chant as they heap scoop after scoop of shiny roe until it overflows into your bowl. I also liked that the restaurant was located in central Tokyo. Many of the restaurants I wanted to try were out of the way, which meant Chew Steel would have to navigate through a couple of stations to get us there.

Iroriya is located in the basement, off the side streets of Ginza. I read that seafood is caught in the morning and brought in daily, and the vegetables are from a local farm. Their specialty dish, funajo meshi (salmon roe), comes from Hokkaido.

Iroriya charges a seating fee, which comes with the most delicious bowl of beef stew. The clear broth tasted like gravy, and the homey blend of tender beef and onions was so good that I wanted to order another bowl.

We ordered grilled shiitake mushrooms (280 ¥), salmon roe don (37000 ¥), chicken karrage (900 ¥) and seafood salad (900 ¥).

The shiitake was grilled and served with a soy sauce broth. Our server warned us not to eat the stem. Meaty and soft, the mushroom could have been cooked longer, as it wasn’t piping hot. After our server took away our dish and commented on the leftover broth, I realized we should drink the sauce.

The chicken karrage was super crunchy and juicy. The meat had some pull as I bit into the hot morsel. Chew Steel loved the karrage, and while I liked the crunchiness, I preferred Sukiyaki House’s more seasoned meat. However, I would order the chicken again. It was delicious, just less refined than Sukiyaki House’s version.

When our salmon roe came out of the kitchen, the staff turned up the music and dimmed the lights. Two staff came out, one pounding on his drum and the other shouting, “Yoisho! Yoisho! Yoisho!” The female tourist beside me said she wanted to order the salmon roe as well, but it would be too much to eat.

She’s right; the salmon, though so fresh and glistening like orange jewels, was rich and salty. Despite trying it in various ways, on its own, with broth, or mixed with rice, seaweed, wasabi and a dash of soy, we couldn’t finish our bowl. I’m glad we tried it, but if we come again, I will skip it unless I share it with a group.

The seafood salad was my favourite dish of the night. The dressing was tangy and peppery. There was a ton of assorted seafood, like salmon, tuna, and ebi, all tossed with buttery avocado pieces. The tomatoes, onions and lettuce were spanking fresh. I would order the salad again. Next time Chew Steel and I are in Tokyo, I’d return and try some of the fresh seafood.

My neighbour asked the head guy in the kitchen if he spoke English. I wasn’t paying attention to their banter until he bought out a round of beers. She had bought everyone working in the kitchen a drink and shouted that they were awesome. One thing I admire about Americans is they know how to party. Yoisho! Yoisho! Yoisho!

Planning a trip? See more in Where to Eat While Travelling: Restaurants Worth the Detour, including Tokyo picks.

Japanese · Restaurants · Special Occasion · Tokyo · Wine tasting

Yakitori Sanki Tokyo: Bib Gourmand Spot Worth the Stop

One of my best-ever dining experiences was at Yakitori Sanka in Tokyo. I found this tiny spot when looking through the Michelin guide. The owner uses specialty local chickens and dusts each piece with sun-dried salt from the eastern Kochi Prefecture over Tosa binchotan charcoal. Not only was this the best yakitori and sake I consumed, but the service from the entire staff was bar none. For this post, let’s listen to “That Certain Female”.

I booked online via Table Check as soon as reservations opened, a month before our visit. I pre-ordered the eight-course yakitori course (6270 ¥), which included four appetizers and several chicken and vegetable skewers. The cost of the food and wine was more than reasonable for the quality and deliciousness we experienced.

The restaurant is hidden upstairs on the second floor. The room is clean and modern, showcasing a large charcoal grill that smoked and flared throughout the night. All the seats surround the open kitchen so that everyone can view the action.

I started with a sparkling wine. I read the owner is a sommelier. We noticed the chef would try all the wines before they were served to guests to test their quality. The wine itself was nice and mellow, with fruit-forward notes. I knew right away I had to try some of the other wines and sake because I felt I would appreciate the line-up.

Our set of appetizers included the most delicious warm custard. The nugget of braised beef and tomatoes exploded with rich flavour on our tongue. Chew Steel noted the salt texture in our green salad and commented that everything was perfectly seasoned.

The first skewer was the chicken shoulder, speckled with wasabi. The meat was soft and plump, with a clean flavour. L and I tried a fruity sake, which smelled like melons and was so smooth that I couldn’t even taste the alcohol. What I loved about this sake was that it was easy to drink and went well with the food.

The next chicken skewer was magnificent. The skin was thick and crunchy, and the meat was salty and juicy. I chewed as slowly as possible to enjoy the flavour. I noticed the chef intently dusting each skewer with salt and watching the smoke from the charcoal. Once every while, he would poke or add more charcoal to the grill.

One of my favourite pieces was the chicken gizzard. I loved the crunch, as the interesting texture reminded me of a cross between celery and cabbage. Each bite filled your mouth with the most delicious charcoal fragrance.

One of Chew Steel’s favourite bites were the chicken and green onion and grilled cabbage, which we could watch cooking for a lengthy time on the grill, more than twice that of the chicken. The cabbage was crunchy, with an explosion of refreshing, onion-like bite.

We then supped on super hot fried tofu. The room holds about 14 seats, and by 7:00 p.m., each spot was filled. Though Yakitori Sanka is tourist-friendly, it was frequented by native-speaking Japanese customers on Saturday.

The mushroom was so delicious it tasted like beef but ever so tender. I could feel my eyes rolling into the back of my head as I sucked the juices from the morsel. Chew Steel said this place would ruin us because other yakitori places couldn’t compare with it. He’s correct.

For our second sake, I wanted to try the drier one. I appreciated how the staff communicated all the details of the food and sake, using adjectives to describe each item. They were attentive all evening and it was clear that wanted us to have a positive experience and not miss any particular detail.

The meatball was unique—clear white juices from chicken. There was something very Canadian about the simplicity of flavour. The chicken was fluffy and clean.

We were given a soul-satisfying chicken broth at the end of our courses. The soup was nourishing and comforted my stomach, a nice touch to end the night. After we finished our soup, we were handed a cup of tea to sip on.

Yakitori Sanki is a special spot we plan to revisit in Tokyo. You can tell by watching the owner cook and the professionalism of the staff that they exemplify excellence in both craft and service. This restaurant ranks as one of the best that I’ve ever experienced. Hitting the Sauce gives Yakitori Sanki two phat thumbs up!

Planning a trip? See more in Where to Eat While Travelling: Restaurants Worth the Detour, including Tokyo picks.

Bars/Lounges · Vietnamese

Paper Lantern: Avenue Calgary’s Best Vietnamese Restaurant 2026

August 2026 update: Avenue Calgary readers named Paper Lantern the city’s Best Vietnamese Restaurant for 2026.

Friday was my last day at my job, leaving me an entire weekend of unemployment before I started my new position. Chew Steel wanted to mark the occasion by going out for dinner. I picked Paper Lantern as I wanted to relive my experience with Danni and the Olympian two days earlier. Let’s listen to “Kokomo” by the Beach Boys for this post.

Chew Steel asked our server for a recommendation and mentioned he enjoys rum. She suggested the Zombie Milk Punch ($18), which consists of three rums, lime, falernum cinnamon, grapefruit, grenadine, absinthe, bitters and clarified milk. I enjoyed my Mai Tai ($12), but his cocktail was even better. He remarked that he’d never had a drink that he enjoyed this much. I could taste cinnamon and lime. Chew Steel said it was smooth with the right balance of sweet, tart, and booze. I made a mental note to bring my friends Kournikova and Lululemon to Paper Lantern for cocktails. 

The Mango Salad ($14) didn’t disappoint. I was worried it wouldn’t be as good as Wednesday. The dressing isn’t too sweet and has a warm, lingering heat. I love the zing of the mint and the toothsome texture of the mango and papaya. The only other salad that compares to Paper Lantern’s is Lulu Bar’s Sichuan noodle salad. 

Chew Steel enjoyed the Beef Stew ($14). The beef and carrots were so soft that chewing wasn’t necessary. The rich gravy complemented the crusty baguette. The beef stew is the dish if you are craving a “meat and potatoes” type of meal. 

I wanted to order the “What’s the Kitchen Having ($14),” a rotating dish the kitchen makes for dinner. The salad greens were so fresh. The noodles were light and springy. Eating the greens with the noodles and meat reminded me of a Vietnamese bun with a different Asian twist, as the noodles were thicker, and the sweet char sui reminded me of Chinese food.

The soup tasted like it took a long time to prepare, as it had that wholesome flavour to it. Chew Steel thought there might have been shrimp in the base.

My favourite dish was the Crispy Crepes ($14). I tried a version of this dish at Cuty in Dalhousie, and I wasn’t a fan. However, Paper Lantern’s version has converted me. Our order came with two golden brown turmeric crepes. As I bit into it, the crepe gave way to a steamy pile of pork, shrimp, bean sprouts and mung beans. The roasted sprouts, fragrant from the wok, added a smoky note that elevated every bite. Wrapped in lettuce and dunked in fish sauce, these crepes have texture, freshness, and umami. I would order them again.

Chew Steel and I found a new hangout. He was impressed with the cocktails and food. This is my third visit, and knowing who runs the kitchen, I know we can expect the same consistency in the future. As we left, I glanced through the kitchen window to catch an admiring glimpse of the female chef responsible for our delicious meal. Hitting the Sauce gives Danni’s parents two phat thumbs up. 


Want more like this? Check out my running list of Calgary’s best restaurants, date nights, and cheap eats.

Banh Mi · Chinatown · Vietnamese

Banh Mi Date #15: Paper Lantern in Calgary

For the past year, I’ve corresponded with Danni on Instagram. We share similar tastes in food, and we’ve even been to the same restaurants at the same time, though we weren’t aware then. We decided to meet up officially. I invited my friend, the Olympian. Divine Offering isn’t accessible on Wednesdays so that she couldn’t make it. Lovegastrogirl was in Tokyo; otherwise, she would have also come along. Let’s listen to “New Attitude” by Patti LaBelle for this post. 

We hemmed and hawed about where to go, and finally, I suggested Paper Lantern. It is a small world; as it turns out, Danni is the proud sister of the owner of Paper Lantern and Prosperity Bar. Her parents previously owned Orchid Room in Bankers Hall. I’ve never eaten there, but I heard the food was elevated Vietnamese cuisine and popular with the downtown crew. The Olympian and I asked her where she eats Vietnamese food, as we were curious where she would eat if it weren’t her family’s restaurant. She recommended Rau Bistro, Noodle World (#52 rice platter or coconut beef pho), Pho Uncle Ten, and Basil Ultimate. 

I ordered the PL Daiquiri ($12), Danni ordered a Mai Tai, and Olympian picked a non-alcoholic pina colada. My cocktail was light and breezy, with a tart tropical zing from the pineapple. For food, Danni picked some appetizers for us to share. I appreciated the water pitcher on the table, as I was parched that night. 

First up was the Sweet Nuoc Mam Chicken Wings ($12). Damn, the wings were saucy and crispy, the sauce was sticky and sweet. I was happy to see the wings and drums were five times the size of any pub wings. I want to try the shrimp salt and pepper version when I return. 

There was a lot of beef in the carpaccio ($12). I liked how the peanuts and onions gave some textural contrast to the soft, raw meat. The beef itself had a nice flavour. I didn’t realize there was cilantro in this dish. Had I known, I would have omitted the herb, as I’m one of the unlucky ones with the soap gene.  

The pork belly banh mi ($10) was a winner! The special sauce and house mayonnaise were savoury and rich. The braised pork belly was so soft and warm that it melted right into the light, crusty bread. The pickled vegetables added a lovely crunch to each bite. Danni recommended trying the chicken roti banh mi next time. Her eyes lit up as she described how the chicken was caramelized. 

The Pineapple Stir fry ($12) was as good as I remembered it from my last visit. The rice bowl contained ample sweet pork belly, shrimp, and pineapple. If you are hungry, I recommend ordering a rice bowl, as it is filling.

My favourite dish was the Mango Salad ($14). It takes a lot for me to like a salad over wings, so the chef back there is performing a miracle. The mango and papaya strands were chilled, crunchy from the peanuts and herby from the fresh mint leaves. I liked scooping up the refreshing salad on top of the shrimp cracker. 

When the bill came, I was surprised to see how affordable it was. My bill, including one cocktail, was only thirty dollars. In today’s economy, that’s incredible. I informed Danni I was bringing Chew Steel to Paper Lantern for our next date night. She suggested I try the Beef Stew ($14) and Crispy Crepes ($15). I already know what I want—a repeat of the mango salad, banh mi, and the shrimp salt wings.

We plan to do another girls’ outing, this time at Prosperity Bar, to try the Big Mac egg rolls, Philly Cheese Banh Mi, and some dumplings. Next time, we’ll be sure to include Lovegastrogirl and Divine Offering. Perhaps I’ll have to start my supper club again, No Man’s Dinner, with the president, Loaf2go. 

Looking for more great Vietnamese food? Check out my guide to the Best Vietnamese Restaurants in Calgary, featuring my favourite spots for pho, bun bo hue, banh mi, spring rolls, and more.