Metrovino turns 30 this year, and to celebrate, they poured six German All-Stars wines. The ticket cost was $78.75. I went with my trusty wine pal, Divine Offering. For this post, let’s listen to Closing Time by Semisonic.
As usual, Metrovino brought a generous spread of charcuterie and cheeses. I particularly enjoyed the duck rillettes, which were deeply rich and moist, with coarse shreds of meat. We filled up our plates before heading to the tasting counter.
Grisel & Compagnie
Usually when I arrive, I stand around awkwardly, trying not to leer wantonly at the open bottles of wine. This time, Al Drinkle, partner at Metrovino, and Sylvie called us to the tasting table to try the first wine, 2022 Blanc de Noirs Brut ($55). Owners Niko Brandner and Rachele Crosara are the couple behind Grisel & Compagnie.
Al noted that Germans love their bubbles, and this one, made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in Bensheim, Hessische-Bergstraße, I thought was yummy. I found it full-bodied, with lots of tight bubbles and a honeyed richness.
Al told us this tasting centred on two of Germany’s great grapes, Pinot and Riesling, both built on high acidity. Another interesting theme that ran through the evening was climate change and how some growers are changing the way they farm because of it.
Wasenhaus
Christoph Wölber and Alex Götze are the people behind 2024 Spätburgunder ($62), a Pinot Noir from Staufen im Breisgau, Baden. The colour was light and almost translucent. Al told us colour tells you nothing about how a wine tastes. He noted its haunting aromatics. Divine Offering could taste oak. I found it ripe and chuggable. It’s unlike any other Pinot I’ve tried.
Weingut Leitz
The third wine I sampled was the Weingut Leitz 2025 Riesling Trocken ‘Eins-Zwei-Dry’ ($29, 15% off to $24.65). Based in Rüdesheim am Rhein in the Rheingau, Johannes and Antonius Leitz run the winery. He described Johannes as big-hearted, very kind, and the nicest guy you’ll ever meet. Al also mentioned that Leitz makes a lot of non-alcoholic wine. I found this wine lively, and I liked how it sparkled on my tongue. I bought two bottles.
A.J Adam
A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken ($36, 15% off to $30.60) was my favourite wine of the evening. Al detailed that this was a boutique farm in Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel Valley, run by Andreas Adam and Barbara Gudelj. Their wines range from dry to sweet. A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken is their entry-level, and Al explained it’s their “business card” wine. He described this wine as high acid, with heirloom apple, a little salt, a slight spritz, and intense for the price. I loved how it tasted alive and almost fizzy. Al said that fizzle sensation is itself acidity. I could literally feel my mind blown when I realized what acidity felt like: a tingle on your tongue. I bought three bottles.
Weingut Schätzel
Next up was Weingut Schätzel’s 2021 Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling GG ($75), from Nierstein in Rheinhessen. Kai Schätzel and his business partner Jule Eichblatt farm biodynamically. One example of how they’re responding to climate change is by barely tilling and by planting poplars among the vines to keep them hydrated. I enjoyed the pleasant aftertaste.
Hofgut Falkenstein
The last wine, 2025 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb ‘Onkel Peter’ ($49, 15% off to $41.65), is from Niedermennig, Saar, one of the cooler corners for German wine. Al said Johannes and Erich Weber make the most brilliant, bright, tonic, mineral Riesling in the lineup. He told us the acidity is intense. The way he said “intense” was itself intense. He must have realized how alarming he’d made it sound, because he added that it won’t hurt you. Divine Offering thought this would be a great wine to drink after a meal, as it was a touch sweet. I bought a bottle for us to enjoy on another night.
I ‘revisited’ a few wines to ensure I liked what I was buying. While we waited for our table at Noble Pie, I asked Al why he loves German wine so much, and what draws him to the science of wine. He finds German wine fascinating: its history, its Riesling, and its comeback from its past reputation. After the 1985 “antifreeze scandal” hurt the reputation of Germany’s sweet wines, winemakers turned toward dry ones. He also spoke fondly of German Pinot Noir, which a warmer climate now helps ripen more reliably.
His answer to my second question, about the science of wine, went over my head, which tells you something about how deep his knowledge runs. His vocabulary is just as impressive. I consider mine pretty good, and I still went home looking up words, like amorphous.
What a night! By the end, it felt like I was a character in Mr. Fezziwig’s merry party in A Christmas Carol, which is my all-time favourite book scene. It was a real treat to try so many new and wonderful wines. I’m going to drop off some macarons to thank Al, Sylvia and team for their hospitality. Thank you, and happy 30th, Metrovino!
Two series remain for Metrovino’s All-Star Series: Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.
