To celebrate its 30 years in business, Metrovino hosted an All-Stars series showcasing its longtime wine heroes. France ($78.75) kicked off the series. I went alone to this one, without my usual crew. For this post, let’s listen to Comfort Eagle.
Metrovino, I learned, used to be a warehouse and dates back to 1914. With exposed wood posts and beams from floor to ceiling, it’s the cozy spot for some wine education.
This evening showcased the stars and friends of Richard Harvey, Metrovino’s co-founder. Richard mentioned that, in many cases, his friends’ children have taken over the business, or are in the process of doing so. He told us the work isn’t cushy, and it’s far easier to go into the city and push paper for a living than to do the hard work of farming. That resonated with me, as I remember watching how hard my mother worked as a small business owner. It is certainly not for the faint of heart.
1. Terres Falmet
The first wine hero of the evening is Yves Falmet from Creissan, Languedoc, a hands-on producer. Richard noted that Terres doesn’t make many rosés, and this particular type is quite popular right now. I bought a bottle of 2025 Saint-Chinian Sibylline Rosé ($28, discounted 15% to $23.80) for my girlfriends, and they all enjoyed the crisp, clean flavour.
2. Domaine Vincent Carême
Vincent and Tania Carême are from Vernou-sur-Brenne in the Loire Valley. I enjoyed the 2023 Vouvray Le Peu Morier ($66, discounted 15% to $56.10), as I found it fresh and weighty. Vouvray is made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that’s sensitive to the growing season. One year the wine can be bone dry, and the next, sweet. Richard called 2023 a dry year for the Vouvray. I bought a bottle, and, as Richard suggested, I’ll pair it with poultry, mushrooms, salmon or white fish.
3. Château de Beauregard
I’m familiar with the Burrier family: Frederic, Sylvie, Julien, Baptiste, and Berenger, as Metrovino has hosted a tasting in their honour in the past summer. This wine is from the famous village of Fuissé, in Burgundy. Made from pure Chardonnay, the 2024 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru La Maréchaude ($81) was described by Richard as bright, energetic and peppery, and one worth aging. I found this wine unusual as I’ve never tasted anything like this before.
Around this time, Eva Hudson, a Metrovino partner, made us jambon-beurre, using baguettes from Mari Bakery and Terroir Artisan butter. What a scrumptious sandwich! Biting into the crusty bread, filled with cold, rich butter, and cool layers of finely sliced ham with the sharp, acidic bite from the cornichons had me salivating. Gluttonous and without shame, I took a second helping.
4. Château Thivin
Richard introduced us to the Geoffray family: Claude Vincent, Evelyne, Claude Edouard, and Sonja from Odenas, Beaujolais. Sara Boucher, partner at Metrovino, mentioned she found the 2023 Brouilly Reverdon ($43) perfect, not too thin or thick, and very fresh. Again, I found this wine interesting as I couldn’t describe it myself. I confirmed with Sara that I should serve wines cellar-cool: red at 16–18°C and whites at 14–16°C.
5. Famille Pierre Gaillard
The 2024 Saint-Joseph Syrah ($55) received the most vocal reaction from the crowd. I could hear oohs and aahs from what seemed like the regulars in the room. The family behind the wine includes Pierre, Pascale, Jeanne, Pierre-Antoine, and Elise, from Malleval, Rhône Valley. Richard also happily pointed out that the next generation in the Gaillard family is stepping in. I could taste spice in the wine, which was exciting, since detecting notes doesn’t come often to me. I was tempted to buy a bottle for my wine club, but I tend to pick wines that are easy to talk about, like the Vouvray. Richard described this wine as energetic, juicy and complex.
6. Clos du Gravillas
The 2023 Lo Vielh Carignan de 100 ans ($47) from Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, Languedoc, was truly gulpable. I found this wine silky and juicy. The Bojanowski family includes Nicole, John, and Sacha, with their son taking over the business. Richard adores this Carignan but says it has to be grown in the right place. These vines are over a century old, which is why this one really works. He likes this wine so much he bought a barrel, which holds 300 bottles.
I already bought tickets to Metrovino’s three remaining series: Germany, Spain and Italy. There are still a few spots, and I’d recommend going for the stories, wines and the food. For a regularly updated list of tastings and special events, visit my Calgary Wine Tastings & Events Guide.
Hitting the Sauce 