Lululemon treated me to a belated birthday dinner at Varbar with fondue and champagne. The evening struck a chord between indulgence and charm, securing its place on my list of must-try spots in Calgary when you’re in the mood to celebrate. For this post, let’s listen to Mykonos by Fleet Foxes.
The restaurant is tiny, even smaller than Bar Gigi. Four tables for two, a bar with four stools, it feels like someone carved out an attic or closet and turned it into a tiny, sparkly playground for unapologetic lushes.
I have limited experience with champagne, mostly through Juice Imports tastings and time spent with good neighbours, Quebecoise, Sirski, and Kournikova. What I do know is this: I don’t care for the yeasty styles, which thankfully, weren’t on the menu at Varbar.
Lululemon ordered us a champagne flight ($45), fondue for two ($65), kimchi brussels sprouts ($7), and a glass of Pommery Brut Ŕose ($28). Our flight came first, and I followed her lead, tasting each glass and deciding which one we wanted to save for last.
The first one we tried, Bolinger Champagne Special Cuvee ($34 glass), reminded Lululemon of autumn and pear cider. I noticed the tang at the end and then no aftertaste. The bubbles were fine and gentle on the tongue.
The second champagne was Charles Mignon Réserve Rosé ($25 per glass). I enjoyed the clean, bright bubbles and the way they sparkled on the palate. Lululemon noted hints of rose and lychee. I thought it was absolutely delicious.
The Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve ($26 per glass) was equally impressive. Compared to the first two, it leaned softer and more toasty, with a gentle roundness that made it feel a little more unique.
Lululemon wanted us to try one more, so we landed on the Pommery Brut Rosé ($28). It ended up being her favourite, fresh, dry, with bright strawberry and raspberry notes, and the liveliest bubbles of the night.
Our fondue came with bread cubes, pickles, pickled white onions, baby potatoes, and green apples. Lululemon’s favourite were the in-house-made kimchi brussels sprouts, which were crunchy and tangy, and the apples.
I’ve had fondue three times before, once at a restaurant and twice at a friend’s house. Varbar’s gruyère and emmental fondue is the best I’ve had. The cheese itself was silky, nutty and savoury with a touch of sweetness.
I think one reason is that the cheese is served bubbling hot, which makes a big difference in its texture. It was stretchy and smooth, evenly coating each ingredient. I especially loved the acidity of the pickles cutting through the richness of the molten cheese, alongside the contrast between the cold, plain potatoes and the juicy green apples.
At the bottom of the pot, the cheese formed this golden, crispy crust that’s completely different from the silky fondue. It’s deeper, saltier, with a crunch that reminds me of the edges of a fancy grilled cheese sandwich.
Everything was so decadent, I wanted to weep with joy. Unfortunately, I was too dehydrated from treatment to shed a tear, so I did the only reasonable thing and kept eating.
Lululemon’s birthday is coming up, and I’ll need to come up with something spectacular. She’s a vegetarian, which makes this a tough act to follow. Best case, I take her back to VarBar and try to recreate the magic. Thank you, Lululemon, for such a thoughtful and memorable night.
Hitting the Sauce 