pop up – Hitting the Sauce

Town Hospitality organized an event. The lineup included Chef Garret Martin and Bar Manager Nate Wry of Francine’s, Sugar Water Events, and Kyo-Jean Chung from Crush Imports. Garret previously ran Major Tom and later, Francine’s, where I ate one of the best steaks in my life.

Set from 6:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. dinner included five courses paired with cocktails and wine ($243 per person). I asked Divine Offering if she was interested in attending with me. Lucky for me, she’s always up for fun! Let’s listen to “Sing, Sing, Sing” by Benny Goodman for this post.

The dinner was at The Garret Loft, above FinePrint on Stephen Avenue. We climbed the stairs and stepped into a long, lofty room. At one end, the kitchen welcomed us; at the other, a view of downtown’s ever-changing nature unfolded. A table stretched through most of the space, adorned with fresh blue delphinium flowers and burning candles.

This was my first time meeting Garret and Nate in person. I’ve only seen their photos in the Herald and was surprised by how fresh-faced they looked. With their resumes, I expected them to appear older, or at least more weathered.

The welcome drink was a French 75, created by Nate. The macadamia syrup added a nutty element, while the lemon provided an element of tartness. Delicious! We took our drinks, sat by a nook near the piano, and observed the scurry of activity before we sat for dinner.

We sat in the middle of the table, which roughly thirty other guests. The famous cheese monger, Isaac from Say Cheese Fromagerie, sat to my right with his posse. I’ve seen him on Instagram, usually chiseling into a massive wheel of cheese. To my left was a cluster of female friends, one donning a white hat. At the end of the table were couples. I sat across from one of Town Hospitality’s partners, Wyatt Norm.

The first dish was ham and chips with honey butter glaze, Bayonne ham, and aged comte cheese, paired with a glass of Montgermont Blanc De Blancs. Divine Offering took a bite and declared the honey butter glaze far better than the Korean snacks she’d bought. I picked up hints of thyme, while the chips tasted like cornflakes, topped with salty ham and cheese shavings.

The second dish was baby romaine salad with date vinaigrette, bacon, fried rosemary, and Roquefort blue. Paired with Maya Meaker Elgin Riesling, we learned the wine had a hint of residual sugar and high acidity, making it a perfect match for the sweet blue cheese from southern France. Divine Offering declared the cheese the star of the salad, smooth and creamy, without the usual sharpness of blue cheese. I loved how it melted in my mouth.

The salad was hearty yet light, sweet from the honey and salty from the bacon. I loved the combination of ingredients and textures, particularly the satisfying crunch when you cut into the “boat” of lettuce. I would order this again, and salads do not usually wow me.

Divine Offering eats slowly, while I’m usually quick. But I took my time for this meal as I didn’t want to stop tasting the flavours. One of my favourite of the night was the mussels, paired with a Pauet Macon-Villages Nos Cinq Terroirs, a smooth textured chardonnay.

The broth smelled fragrant and oceanic. The mussels were spectacular, plump, silky, and creamy, with a taste like fresh West Coast oysters. I loved how the delicate radish, apple, yuzu, and vanilla broth let the freshness of the mussels shine. She usually avoids shellfish, but these mussels were so soft and free of any fishy aftertaste that she ate every last one. I was disappointed she liked them so much, as I was hoping for her portion.

We were treated to extra cocktails throughout our meal, in addition to the welcome drink and five pairings. The Perfect Lady cocktail was simple and fun. I tasted peach with a hint of something tropical, like lychee. Divine Offering thought the Perfect Lady was a good break before the main course.

I thought nothing could outdo the mussels, but I had forgotten how well Garrett can cook a steak. The slow-roasted “delmonico” style steak was paired with a glass of contra soarda terra veneto rosso, a red wine from northern Italy. The peppercorn sauce was hot and full of flavor. The steak had a perfect chew, deep beefy richness, and a mouthwatering char. The whipped, buttery potatoes were smooth and creamy.

Divine Offering exclaimed the steak the best she’s ever had. We would both order this dish whenever it is on the menu at Francine’s. Garrett explained that all the food prepared was authentically French, buttery, rich, and salty.

Dessert was Divine Offering’s favourite course. The praline was creamy and not too sweet. I liked the salt and cheese, which countered the sweetness of the caramel. She quietly scraped the remaining butterscotch sauce off the plate to get every bit of sauce. She said if she were in the privacy of her own home, she would have licked the plate clean. I believe her. Her focus remained entirely on her dessert throughout the entire course. The wine was like a second dessert, sweet and complemented the parfait.

Divine Offering noted the cocktails made by Sugar Water Bar were expertly timed throughout dinner. The French 75 stimulated her appetite, while the ‘Ti Punch, her favourite cocktail tonight, ended the dinner perfectly. Nate noted that he prefers to use French spirits, such as French rum, and simple garnishes with the cocktails to focus on the taste. The last drink was funky and fun, fragrant and had a real “punch” to it.

The hospitality we received from everyone was an A+. Wyatt explained that these events give chefs a chance to create new dishes, as many grow tired of repeating the same hits night after night. Divine Offering thought the event was well-planned and definitely worth the money. The night was worth every nickel, with outstanding quality and drinks flowing all evening.

I plan to go again. I hear there will be a New Year’s Eve bash, though I might wait for the event following. I highly recommend Town Hospitality events and look forward to Garret and Nate’s upcoming restaurant, Francine’s. Hitting the Sauce gives the whole collaboration two phat thumbs up!

Kournikova, Lululemon, 47, and I met at Francine’s for a long-overdue dinner. Francine’s is a French pop-up bar housed in Meat & Bread. I’ve meant to check out this bar for ages, but circumstances prevented me until our girls’ night. Let’s listen to “Cherry Pie” by Sade for this post.

The bartender makes a mean cocktail! These weren’t the watered-down concoctions from a dive bar. I ordered a Francine’s 75 ($16), Lululemon picked the Bois Sacre Margarita ($17), and I forgot what Kournikova and 47 selected. Our drinks were excellent. The flavour in each drink was smooth and fruity, and it tasted like it was from fresh ingredients rather than concentrated juice. For example, I could taste the passionfruit in the margarita and the basil in my cocktail. The cocktails at Francine’s are on par with Klein/Harris and Paper Lantern.

Forty-seven wanted to try the cheese puffs ($4 each). The little puffs were so delicate that the warm, soft innards melted in my mouth. The butter, with the addition of honey, was surprisingly light and sweet.

The Smoked Sturgeon ($19) was a nice bite, a rich, mousse-like dip that was invigorating to the tongue. A fresh cucumber topping tied well with the sturgeon’s smokiness and the Ritz crackers’ sweetness.

Kournikova suggested we get a salad, and we landed on the Baby Romaine ($16) because the other option had bacon, which Lululemon doesn’t eat. I was shocked at how much I loved this dish. This isn’t your chain restaurant Caesar salad, but an impressive array of flavours. I enjoyed the ripeness of the olive and the addition of fennel, juicy orange slices and garlic crumbles. The layers of crunchy lettuce were cold and crunchy, gloriously refreshing. I would get the salad again.

The girls ordered a glass of prosecco, but I asked our server for a recommendation for a wine that would pair well with the steak. She suggested the Altugnanc Pinot Noir ($18) to complement the beef and gnocchi. Generally, I’m not too fond of pinot noir, but this wine was delicious. It was very grapey.

I didn’t want to eat the Parisienne Gnocchi ($32) because I wanted to leave it for the vegetarian and 47. However, both were light eaters and insisted I try some. The texture of the little nuggets was pillowy despite the seared edges. I liked the addition of slivered pea pods, as it brought out the buttery, herby sauce.

The Steak Au Poivre ($46) was so good that I wanted to bring my brother here to try it. Each piece of beef was tender and succulent. The meat was soft, and the flavour was intense, like rich caramelized fat. The pepper in it was phenomenal. In my minimal steak-eating experience, Francine makes the best steak in the city, beating Caesar’s Steakhouse and Hy’s and nudging past Cassis by millimetres.

Lululemon ordered French Toast ($17) and insisted everyone try a bite. She pressured Kournikova to try some, but Kournikova was firm. Both are persistent individuals, and Lululemon was motivated to share the deliciousness. However, I know Kournikova’s resolve is as firm as her posture, and I advised Lululemon that her attempts were fruitless.

Lululemon ate the first bite and sighed how the toast went well with the aged cream cheese and honey ice cream. I tried her dessert because my resolve dissolved when I heard Lululemon’s exclamations of delight. Yes, it is worth it, even if you are lactose intolerant.

We split the bill, and only after did I realize Lululemon overpaid, as she didn’t eat any of the steak and put the dessert on her tab. I’ll have to get her an extra delicious treat from my upcoming trip to compensate for the discrepancy. Hitting the Sauce gives Francine’s two phat thumbs up.

Tag: pop up

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