Newcastle UK

Newcastle upon Tyne – Geordie Bangers, The Broad Chare (Bib Gourmand) and Hen & Hops

We took a train from Liverpool to Newcastle. After we dropped off our luggage at the hotel, we searched for Grainger Market because I had read great things about the sausage rolls at Geordie Banger, a third-generation butchery family. Let’s listen to “Blur” by Parklife for this post.

Judging from the menus in Liverpool and Edinburgh, I could see locals are fond of their sausages and meat pies. I was curious, as my only experience with sausage rolls comes from the frozen ones by Schneiders, where the puff pastry is dry and papery, wrapped around a spongy, unappetizing filling. Frozen meat pies from Safeway aren’t much better, the crust is either tough and dry or undercooked and soggy.

Whelp, we Canadians have been missing out! Take a gander at these gorgeous sausages! The crust-to-sausage ratio is insane. And the texture of the meat and pastry was off the hook. With each bite, my teeth would sink through the crisp casing, releasing a flood of hearty, juicy flavour.

The Cumberland sausage roll was our favourite. The herbs tasted familiar, and the pork had a natural sweetness. The crust is minimal, thin and crispy, with just enough sturdiness to support the fatty goodness.

Everything we tried was so steaming hot that we burned our mouths eating it. I couldn’t believe a portion this big was only £3. The black pudding sausage had a creaminess and flavour profile that reminded me of pâté. The jalapeño was mild, adding just enough of a kick to wake up the taste buds.

The owner chatted with us and told us to go to Broad Chare. I already had it on my list, as it was recommended in the Michelin guide. And when we came back before returning to London, he gave me some free sausage rolls to take on our train ride back. Two hours later, the sausages were still warm. While I was eating, I noticed another passenger casting a jealous glance at mine. That’s right, I thought with glee, I’ve got a big one!

We walked to the Biscuit Factory, an art gallery that sells commercial art, crafts, and other designs. Formerly a Victorian warehouse, it was filled with contemporary art at reasonable prices.

Afterwards, we walked to Seven Stories, a national centre for children’s books. We strolled through several floors dedicated to British children’s literature. It started to rain, so we ducked into a nearby pub to enjoy a drink while the weather cleared.

Eventually, we made our way over to the Broad Chare. The crowd didn’t feel as warm and welcoming as in Liverpool. I was surprised to catch some older women casting wary glances in my direction. The only time I’ve gotten looks like this was at Avitus in Marda Loop.

I read on Broad Chare’s website that they offer a house beer that pairs well with all the food, so when I went up to order a round, I mentioned that I had heard the pub has a beer that complements all the food. The bartender said flat out, “I have no idea what you are talking about”. I asked if there were any house taps, and he pointed to the Writer’s Block, which I recognized immediately and requested. When I sat down, I looked up the website and found the passage I was referring to.

L went up for the next round and ordered me a raspberry beer (£6.60), which tasted like a raspberry smoothie. We also shared the Monkfish Cheeks (£8) and Scotch Egg (£8).

The Scotch egg was fantastic! Crunchy shell, jammy yolk, it fired off on all cylinders. The Monkfish cheeks were full of umami, and the meat was dense and firm. The homemade tartar sauce was also lovely.

While my raspberry beer was stellar, and I loved the food, we decided to leave and walk around the neighbourhood. The architecture in the city centre is stunning, a fascinating hodgepodge of historic buildings, statues, and churches from different eras.

It was also a Saturday night, and in Newcastle, that meant the streets came alive. I’d never seen anything quite like it. Hordes of women, both young and old, flooded the sidewalks, strutting confidently in head-turning outfits. Every pub was jam-packed, the air hot and humid. The nightclubs drew a slightly different crowd. All around, there was a chorus of hoots, hollers, and shouted greetings flying between groups.

After all the chaos outside, we found a quiet reprieve at Hen & Hops, a cosy little chicken‑and‑beer spot right by our hotel. Tame‑looking diners filled the snug space, totally removed from the raucous nightlife scene. It felt calming and safe from any mayhem.

I wasn’t hungry, but Chew Steel ordered a Chicken Burger (£14.50). I took a bite and enjoyed the onion jam and plump fried chicken filet. Crisp romaine, a huge piece of chicken, there’s a lot to like about this burger. I would return.

Overall, we enjoyed our short visit to Newcastle. We went to bed to get ready for our day trip to Edinburgh. To be continued.

Bars/Lounges · Liverpool · Special Occasion

Liverpool – The Bridewell and Belzan (Bib Gourmand)

Chew Steel returned to our hotel room from his conference and saw me washed up and in bed, scrolling on my phone. He asked if I had eaten, and I said yes, I had gone to McDonald’s, but it was even worse than the one back home in Canada. He shook his head in disapproval and told me to get ready, as the night was still young. Let’s listen to “Hello, Goodbye” by the Beatles for this post.

Chew Steel took me to The Bridewell, a converted historic Victorian correctional facility now specializing in beer. I’m so glad I don’t live near this pub as it would be the death of me. The bones of Bridewell still reveal that it was once a police station, as the old cells with sliding doors are left intact to confine customers. I preferred sitting out in the main room, where I could see the bar and watch the crowd gather.

When Chew Steel bought me my first gin and soda (£5), I noticed several blueberries peeking out from the ice cubes. I used my compostable straw to poke out the berries, and later, when it disintegrated, I used my piano fingers to fish out the sugary balls of fruit. The fizz was clean and bubbly, while the gin was perfectly boozy and sweet from the blueberries.

I went up to get a second round, and I told our bartender how much I loved the garnish in my drink. He smiled and presented me with this masterpiece. Oh boy, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and orange slices! It was like a fruit salad topped with gin. I felt like I won the lottery. I leaned back and happily ate my fruit.

The next morning, I was on my own. I ventured over to Liverpool Cathedral, which is the largest cathedral in Britain and the fifth-largest in the world. Stepping into the cathedral was an experience. There was a heatwave, so the moment I entered, the cathedral’s cool hush was like a calming balm on my skin. It’s a vast sanctuary of towering columns and impossibly high ceilings, chapels and wooden carvings.

Multi-coloured stained glass windows bring your eyes up to the expansive stone and woodwork. I was surprised to learn that Liverpool Cathedral is relatively new because it looks so old. Construction began in 1904 and was completed in 1978.

Next, I walked over to another St. George’s Hall, but it was closed for a private function, and I didn’t want to buy tickets for a light show. I bought some biscuits from Marks & Spencer for my mom and dropped by the hotel to change. Chew Steel came back from his conference, and off we went to explore the streets before our dinner at Belzan, a Bib Gourmand restaurant in the suburbs.

Belzan is a must-visit spot. It’s a tiny restaurant, and from appearances, it seems to have been a café at one point. The modest room features a half-dozen small seats and a bar with a small countertop. The staff were exceptionally personable, recommending dishes and taking the time to describe the beer, wine and food in detail.

We both opted for the fixed-price menu (£40), which included a glass of wine, an appetizer, a main course, and a dessert. We added an extra course, the Guinness Rarebit Potato (£13). For our appetizers, we selected the Barbecued Courgette, Butterbean Hummus with Pine Nut Gremolata and Broad Beans with Goat Curds and Caramelized Honey.

A courgette is a type of summer squash, similar to zucchini, with a light, melon-like flavour. Initially, I thought this was an odd combination of ingredients, but the mint pesto and sweet raisins worked surprisingly well with the hummus, adding a pop of herby freshness and a touch of sweetness. I also liked the buttery taste of the roasted pine nuts.

The other appetizer was just as good. The broad beans were so sweet, perfectly blanched, so each bite was toothsome. I liked the stiffness of the creamy yogurt and the subtle sweetness of the honey. Simple and delicious.

The rarebit was interesting and our favourite appetizer. It tasted familiar yet surprisingly unique, similar to a delicate layered potato cake, but topped with a rich, heavy cheese sauce.

For our mains, we chose the Barbecued Pork Collar, served with Provençal Sauce and Paprika Aioli and the Steamed Sea Trout, with Vichyssoise, Watercress, and Mussels.

The steamed sea trout had a delicate freshness, tender and buttery, almost melting on the tongue. Its richness reminds me of salmon, flavourful and slightly fatty. I loved it. The mussels, on the other hand, were pickled, cold, and tart, which didn’t work for me personally.

The pork collar was really succulent, and I liked the smooth texture of the meat. The mustard added a gentle and clean flavour with no lingering aftertaste. I especially enjoyed the briny, salty bite from the olives and the tangy tomato sauce.

For dessert, we ordered English Strawberries, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream, Malt, and Chocolate Mousse with Hazelnuts and Rapeseed. The ice cream was light and icy, melting quickly on my tongue. The strawberries were stewed and juicy, topped with a buttery crumble. The combination reminded me of a McDonald’s strawberry sundae, but so much better.

Chew Steel took a bite of my ice cream and immediately got buyer’s remorse. I ended up switching desserts with him. While I love ice cream, nothing quite beats the silky richness of a good chocolate mousse. The whipped chocolate paired nicely with the crunchy hazelnuts. I looked up “rapeseed” as it sounded off-putting, and learned it comes from the Latin word rapum, meaning turnip, a distant relative in the plant family.

The meal at Belzan was one of the best we’ve had in a long time. Chew Steel wondered which restaurant in Calgary would be comparable. I heard Bar Gigi offers a similar vibe and style of food, though snagging a reservation there at a decent hour is nearly impossible. Either way, this experience has inspired me to visit Bar Gigi sometime soon. In any case, Hitting the Sauce gives Belzan two phat thumbs up.

Tokyo

Yakitori Sanki – Bib Gourmand

One of my best-ever dining experiences was at Yakitori Sanka in Tokyo. I found this tiny spot when looking through the Michelin guide. The owner uses specialty local chickens and dusts each piece with sun-dried salt from the eastern Kochi Prefecture over Tosa binchotan charcoal. Not only was this the best yakitori and sake I consumed, but the service from the entire staff was bar none. For this post, let’s listen to “That Certain Female”.

I booked online via Table Check as soon as reservations opened, a month before our visit. I pre-ordered the eight-course yakitori course (6270 ¥), which included four appetizers and several chicken and vegetable skewers. The cost of the food and wine was more than reasonable for the quality and deliciousness we experienced.

The restaurant is hidden upstairs on the second floor. The room is clean and modern, showcasing a large charcoal grill that smoked and flared throughout the night. All the seats surround the open kitchen so that everyone can view the action.

I started with a sparkling wine. I read the owner is a sommelier. We noticed the chef would try all the wines before they were served to guests to test their quality. The wine itself was nice and mellow, with fruit-forward notes. I knew right away I had to try some of the other wines and sake because I felt I would appreciate the line-up.

Our set of appetizers included the most delicious warm custard. The nugget of braised beef and tomatoes exploded with rich flavour on our tongue. Chew Steel noted the salt texture in our green salad and commented that everything was perfectly seasoned.

The first skewer was the chicken shoulder, speckled with wasabi. The meat was soft and plump, with a clean flavour. L and I tried a fruity sake, which smelled like melons and was so smooth that I couldn’t even taste the alcohol. What I loved about this sake was that it was easy to drink and went well with the food.

The next chicken skewer was magnificent. The skin was thick and crunchy, and the meat was salty and juicy. I chewed as slowly as possible to enjoy the flavour. I noticed the chef intently dusting each skewer with salt and watching the smoke from the charcoal. Once every while, he would poke or add more charcoal to the grill.

One of my favourite pieces was the chicken gizzard. I loved the crunch, as the interesting texture reminded me of a cross between celery and cabbage. Each bite filled your mouth with the most delicious charcoal fragrance.

One of Chew Steel’s favourite bites were the chicken and green onion and grilled cabbage, which we could watch cooking for a lengthy time on the grill, more than twice that of the chicken. The cabbage was crunchy, with an explosion of refreshing, onion-like bite.

We then supped on super hot fried tofu. The room holds about 14 seats, and by 7:00 p.m., each spot was filled. Though Yakitori Sanka is tourist-friendly, it was frequented by native-speaking Japanese customers on Saturday.

The mushroom was so delicious it tasted like beef but ever so tender. I could feel my eyes rolling into the back of my head as I sucked the juices from the morsel. Chew Steel said this place would ruin us because other yakitori places couldn’t compare with it. He’s correct.

For our second sake, I wanted to try the drier one. I appreciated how the staff communicated all the details of the food and sake, using adjectives to describe each item. They were attentive all evening and it was clear that wanted us to have a positive experience and not miss any particular detail.

The meatball was unique—clear white juices from chicken. There was something very Canadian about the simplicity of flavour. The chicken was fluffy and clean.

We were given a soul-satisfying chicken broth at the end of our courses. The soup was nourishing and comforted my stomach, a nice touch to end the night. After we finished our soup, we were handed a cup of tea to sip on.

Yakitori Sanki is a special spot we plan to revisit in Tokyo. You can tell by watching the owner cook and the professionalism of the staff that they exemplify excellence in both craft and service. This restaurant ranks as one of the best that I’ve ever experienced. Hitting the Sauce gives Yakitori Sanki two phat thumbs up!