Boston · Seafood

Boston review: Neptune Oyster – Worth the wait

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I booked our second tour, Freedom Trail: Small Group Tour of Revolutionary Boston. While I’m an avid reader, when exploring a new city, I prefer the experience of being guided to major historical points. It also helped that our guide, Drew just finished his degree from the Boston Fine Arts Theatre Arts. His flair for drama enriched the stories he recounted on our tour. For this post, let’s listen to “Freedom 90′” by George Michael. 

The significant points of interest for me were the Old South Meeting House, where the famous Boston Tea Party began and the Old State House, where the speeches sparked the rebellious acts of defiance. Drew walked us over to Little Italy, where we passed Paul Revere House, the oldest building in Boston, and then concluded the tour with a patriotic speech overlooking Bunker Hill. 

At around 1:00 p.m., I dragged my beloved to Neptune Oyster, but the line was so long that we wandered over to a pub for a beer and fries. By the time we returned, around 2:15 p.m., the line was shorter. We waited about 40 minutes, and in that time, I regaled the customers in front and behind me of the delicious gloriousness that awaited them at Neptune Oyster. I could tell that waiting in line exhausted L, as he was still tired from the day before, and my hyping up crowds under the scorching sun didn’t help.

When we received our drinks, there were some empty seats around us. The mood changes when it’s not jam-packed with customers. Employees clustered around regulars and chatted with them about their day. An employee slipped out of the kitchen and sat at the bar to enjoy a meal. There’s nothing more comforting in my eyes than an employee taking a moment to eat a meal at their workplace. 

I tried L’s beer, which was the best pint on the trip. I enjoyed the tiny bubbles and clean flavour profile ($11). I tried the rose ($14) from the day before, as our server recognized me and remembered that “everyone was drinking that rose that day.”

I ordered four of the Cherrystone clams ($2.90) while encouraging L to try the oysters ($3-3.50). Ah, the clams were just as good as yesterday, salty, sweet and tasting of the ocean. The plump meat was cold with a satisfying chew to it. L noted Neptune’s oysters were far better than the Bostonia Public House. 

Next, we supped on Bluefin Tuna ($21). The tuna was buttery and smooth, but it was the addition of the crunchy seeds and salt made the crudo pop. I liked the dollop of olive oil and nutty flavour from the sunflowers. 

We ordered the Neptune Johnnycake ($19); I knew immediately he would like it. L has a sweet tooth, and nothing makes him happier than dessert. Holy smokes, this is a winning dish. 

We sat silently, slowly picking away the cake, enjoying the sweet, savoury flavours. The contrast between the honey butter, creamy smoked fish puree and sturgeon caviar was unusual and delicious. L raved that this was the best dish he’s eaten on the trip. He loved the crispy texture and the unique flavour combination. 

For dessert, I ordered Fried Clams ($28). I don’t think Neptune, the godly chef from the previous day, cooked this order of clams. It might have been his apprentice because while it was good, it wasn’t out of this world like it was when I first tried it. The difference was that the clams weren’t as fat, and the batter was crisper, so it didn’t crumble and melt in my mouth like the last time. The clam belly was firmer, more like a standard fried oyster than a jiggly gift from the sea.

As my new friends from the lineup left the restaurant, they came to thank me for my recommendations. Perhaps I missed my true calling as a hype person for rap music. L agreed with me that Neptune is worth the lengthy lineup. I tried to pay for the meal, but L swiped my hand away and told me to quit it. Thank you, L, for humouring me and taking me out one last time at Neptune Oyster. Hitting the Sauce gives Neptune Oyster two phat thumbs up. 

Boston · Chinatown · Chinese · Seafood

Boston review: Peach Farm

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I booked a Ghosts & Gravestones Trolley Tour when L returned to the hotel. I knew this would be a silly excursion, but I was curious about the small cemeteries scattered throughout the downtown core. For this post, let’s listen to “Smokin” by Boston.

The tour was corny, and the stories were grossly exaggerated (and historically inaccurate). Still, we had fun jumping on and off the bus and stopping by the Granary Burying Ground and King’s Chapel Burying Ground. Walking through the grounds, we learned a little about the American patriots who died in the battle of Bunker Hill. We stopped by the graves of Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and Robert Treat Paine. The latter three were signers of the Declaration of Independence. The tour would have been more fun in October, with a cooler temperature and the smell of autumn in the air. 

As it was late when we finished our tour, I suggested we try Peach Farm, located in Chinatown. All the employees were friendly, welcoming and attentive. We ordered Lobster with Green Scallion and Ginger ($60), Clams in Black Bean Sauce ($23), Shrimp Chowmein ($16), Steamed Rice ($2) and two beers ($12).

The clams arrived quickly. I liked eating the saucy clams with steamed rice, as the simplicity of hot white rice accents the meatiness of the clams and the saltiness of the black bean sauce. I enjoyed the clams but was annoyed to find a bit of sand in a couple, as the grating texture was off-putting. 

The lobster was so hot the shells blistered my fingers. The meat popped out easily from its red claws. The lobster meat was fresh tasting, with a pleasing toothsome crunch. The ginger and scallion sauce was buttery, luscious, and so messy our server dropped off some extra napkins. I couldn’t help but think of my family when I ate my lobster, as my mom always ordered both king crab and lobster at our monthly dinners. Back then, the rationale for ordering such extravagant seafood dishes was simply because we were out. My mother, Boss Lady, has an extreme personality. For her, it’s go big or don’t go out at all. 

I was content with supping on the clams and lobster with rice, but L was channeling Boss Lady and wanted another dish. I found the chow mein lacklustre. The shrimp was rubbery and tasteless. The sauce itself was void of seasoning or wok hey. This dish was crying out for some MSG! I felt like David, the friendly regular from Neptune Oyster, in that I wanted to tell L that I make a better chow mein at home. 

Overall, I enjoyed my meal. Service was warm and sincere, which made up for the chow mein. Judging from the crowd, Peach Farm is a popular restaurant for everyone, from families, dates, regulars to tourists. I left stuffed and not crabby, as I was full of lobster.

Boston · Restaurants · Seafood

Boston review: Raw oysters at Neptune Oyster

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On Sunday, L was gone for the entire day. I originally planned to visit Martha’s Vineyard but didn’t want to be stuck on a tour bus for hours, so instead, I opted to check out the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts. Before L left, he asked me to please be aware of my surroundings. I told him honestly that I couldn’t promise him that, but not to worry as I planned to Uber everywhere. Let’s listen to “West End Girls” by the Pet Shop Boys. 

The Gardner Museum was something special. I walked through the entrance garden through rooms filled with international treasures. I didn’t feel like I was in a museum but a very wealthy woman’s house. I preferred how there were no descriptions in the Gardner Museum, as I realized reading takes away from the visual experience. I spent about two hours wandering through the halls and floors because every time there were loud children, I would run out to enjoy the serenity in the quieter rooms, then return when I was alone again.

My next stop was the Museum of Fine Arts. I found this museum too large to absorb in one afternoon. The setup confused me as you would enter a hallway and go through a series of doors, then at the end, turn to the left or right to repeat the experience. I spent most of my time admiring the Art of Ancient Greece, Rome, the Byzantine Empire, Dutch and Flemish Art, and Masterpieces of Egyptian Sculpture from the Pyramid Age. 

At around 2:30 p.m., I decided to check out Neptune Oyster. The wait was only half an hour, as there’s a sweet spot after lunch and before dinner when it’s less busy. The hostess was welcoming and told me I was lucky to sit at the bar as a friendly regular, and two employees were seated to my left. To my right were two women who looked annoyed to be next to me, even though they wanted to sit at the bar. 

I asked my server to recommend a white wine to pair with oysters, and she suggested the Muscat ($13). I ordered four medium-sized oysters, a Littleneck and a Cherrystone clam. I looked around to figure out what to order next, but I arrived at a lull and could only see plates of oysters and lobster rolls. 

The friendly regular and the two employees were drinking glasses of rose. I could tell by watching them that the wine tasted better than mine. Their carefree smiles glowed as they gulped down the pink liquid. The server would continuously fill up their glasses from what appeared to be a bottomless bottle. For my next glass, I asked to drink what they were drinking, and it was a far superior wine ($14).

I asked the friendly regular next to me what he recommended. David paused dramatically and then went into a full-on gourmet speech, just like David Chang and Anthony Bourdain in the Netflix food documentaries. It may be an American thing, but they are much more passionate when speaking. 

 I asked David’s opinion on Neptune’s lobster rolls, and he said a lobster roll is a lobster roll; it’s simply lobster and bread. He and his son can make a fantastic one at home, so when he comes to Neptune’s, he’s looking for something different. I quizzed him about the fried clams, and he said the fried clams are great, but he can get excellent fried clams right in his neighbourhood. Exasperated, I explained that I was only around for a few days and couldn’t make lobster rolls at home, and there wasn’t a famous clam place where I lived. He pondered a little and offered me a sample of his soft-shell crab ($24), which I found delicate.

The oysters ($2.90-$3.50) were pristine and immaculately shucked. However, it was the clams that blew me away. The Littleneck was sweet and tender, while the Cherrystone was salty with a bouncy chew, with a texture between a squid and scallop. 

I told David that the clams were far superior than I could get in Vancouver. He quoted Barack Obama’s speech on how Boston is one of America’s iconic and world’s finest cities. Americans are patriotic. I’ve never referenced our prime ministers except to mention Trudeau wears excellently tailored suits. Swoosh, swoosh, swoosh, that’s the sound his jacket and pants make as he walks by. 

I showed David my list of to-go places, and he told me not to bother with Toro. He’s never heard of Yankee Lobster; James Hook is good, but again, not as good as he can make it (with browned butter), and Oleana in Cambridge is worth the trek. He recommended Peach Farm and has tried the king crab. 

I chose the Fried Clams ($28), and oh my goodness, the chef must be the god of the sea, Neptune himself, because never have I ever eaten such perfectly cooked clams. The clams were giant, like a cluster of oysters stuck together like enoki tempura. Sublimely cooked, the center of the clam was still milky and eggy. The other parts of the clam were pleasantly chewy. The flavour of the meat was sweet and briny, with a crispy exterior protecting the fat, creamy belly meat. I would get this again.

I also tried a bite of David’s lobster burrata ($43). This dish reminded me of the creations I tried at Le Pappilion in Montreal. The herby fragrance from the basil popped against the subtle flavour of the burrata and sweet lobster meat. The portion was large enough for two. I would get this again as well. 

When I told the two employees beside David I was returning the next day, they suggested the crudo and Johnny Cakes. I pondered out loud if I should return to Neptune for every meal in my remaining time. David shook his head and strongly recommended going to Oleana and sitting on the patio. It turns out he was right. What an introduction to the high quality shellfish in Boston. Unbelievable! And to be continued. 

Restaurants

Boston review: Bostonia Public House

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L had a conference in Boston last week. I came along as flights were cheap, and I’ve always wanted to check out the east coast. We landed late in the evening, dropped our luggage into our hotel, and Ubered out for a bite. The only place I could find a reservation was the Bostonia Public House. For this post, let’s listen to “More Than a Feeling” by Boston.

The pub is a popular spot with families. Even at 8:00 p.m., groups were waiting for a table. One baby was wailing across the room, but it didn’t bother us. The Bostonia Public House is not a place you come to for a hot date; you come here if you have kids but still want a tasty meal.

L ordered a beer, and I opted for a spicy Bloody Mary ($11), different from my beloved Canadian drink, the Caesar. The tomato mixture was slightly bitter and cloudy with what I assumed was pulp. 

We ordered a dozen of the Island Creek Oysters ($36). Our oysters came first, and I noticed each one was mangled. The oyster flesh was jagged and at room temperature. Our server came over just as I ate one and asked how the oysters tasted. I pulled out the oyster from my mouth because I felt something stringy, which turned out to be dark hair. I was shocked and disgusted, then realized it was possibly my hair, as I recognized a tint in the colour. I told our server not to worry and tossed the offensive item to the ground.

Before we left for Boston, everyone told us to try the clam chowder. The BPH Clam Chowder ($13.00) was worth every calorie. Each super thick spoonful contained chunks of meaty clams. We enjoyed the smoky, salty flavour from the bacon and creamy pieces of potatoes. L proclaimed this the best soup he’s ever eaten. I would order this again.

We shared the Lobster Mac & Cheese ($38.00), which was big enough for four people to share as a small side. The noodles were so hot that I burned the roof of my mouth. The tubes were soft and covered in a light cream sauce and thyme. The best part of the dish was the crunchy cheese top layer and the generous chunks of lobster meat. 

When our bill came, our server took our oysters off the bill. L said it was completely unnecessary, and I felt guilty because I still wasn’t sure if the hair was mine. However, the server said not to worry, so we added an extra tip to the gratuity. 

We ended the night walking around the harbour and downtown core. L had a big day on Sunday, so we wanted to take it easy and leave the shenanigans for later in the week. 

French · Montreal · Patio

Montreal review: Le Vin Papillon

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The best restaurant we visited in Montreal was Le Vin Papillon. The overall experience was so magical that I’ll book again the next time I’m in town. For this post, let’s listen to “Dream a Little Dream of Me” by Papas & Mamas.

Our server showed us three bottles of white wine. I wanted the second choice, a wine that paired best with the food. Envy and Emerald outvoted me, so we drank a Beaujolais Blanc ($90). The wine was lovely and a little buttery. We ordered less than the recommended number of dishes, six to seven for two people.

We picked our food based on the server’s recommendations, which included: Thon de La Gaspesie Tart ($25), Petoncle Cru ($48), Gnocchi Fritti Anguille ($16), Jambon e le Petite Bourg ($17), Mitake aux Champignons ($26), Belles Tomatoes ($15), Calamars, escarole, tomato ($19) and Tarte Clafoutis aux Ceris ($16).

The gnocchi fritti anguille was a knockout. Each square was black and blistered, puffed up like a pillow. The eel puree was unique. I could taste a hint of charcoal smoke, and the flavour reminded me of creamy smoked salmon. I would order this again.

The Jambon e le Petite Bourg ($17) was a plateful of thin slices of ham and shaved layers of smooth cheese. This dish was all about quality and simplicity.

I was in love with the big Boston scallops, Petoncle Cru. The texture was creamy and silky and popped from the fresh basil and fat salt flakes. What made this dish shine was the sweetness of the scallops and the sensation of the chilled shellfish sliding into my mouth. I liked how the basil flavour didn’t overpower the natural flavour of the scallops.

Emerald said bluefin tuna was a fun take on beef tartare, though I found the endive leaves overly bitter. I knew we shouldn’t have gotten this dish because our server looked disappointed in our choice when we ordered it. Don’t get me wrong, the tuna was great, it wasn’t a knockout like the other dishes.

The calamars arrived on a metal skewer, like a kebob. The squid was smooth and slippery, with a crunchy, el dente bite. The clean flavour from the green butter was phenomenal. The texture of the squid surpassed what I ate in Greece. I appreciated this dish because it’s so rare that I get to eat squid prepared so well.

Emerald, Envy and I were all over the mushrooms. Crunchy crevices, feathery light, each bite was a delight. Envy said everything was super simple but fantastic.

Envy mentioned the wine paired well with the tomatoes. Like our experience at Lapin, the tomato flavour was pronounced. I told my friends this must have come from the best tomatoes in the world. What a fantastic sauce. Emerald noted there was the right amount of seasoning in all the food. We would get the tomatoes again.

Envy ranked her top three dishes: tomatoes, scallop, gnocchi, and mushrooms. Emerald said the gnocchi was number one, then the tomatoes and mushrooms. I preferred the scallops, calamari, and then the tomatoes. This restaurant has it all – food prepared by culinary geniuses, servers who go above and beyond, and customers who know a great thing when they experience it. I left walking on moonbeams and not wanting the night to end.

Our meal cost was on par with Lapin, just over a hundred dollars a person. My only regret was not visiting Le Vin Papillon twice in a week, so I could try everything on the menu.

If you are looking for other restaurant recommendations, check out my Montreal picks.