Restaurants

Four Winds Brewing Co. Taproom Review: Tacos in Delta, B.C.

Chew Steel and I returned to B.C. to visit my family and stayed with my brother, Narc. Shortly after arriving, we took my nephew and niece, Roblox and Jellybean, to Four Winds Brewing Co. Taproom for tacos. Let’s listen to “Raining Tacos” for this post, a song Roblox likely knows all too well.

The taproom sits in a strip mall in an industrial area in Ladner. There isn’t much to look at outside, but inside, the room was busy with locals and people stopping in during their work breaks.

Chew Steel and I left the kids at the table while we went inside to order. Before leaving, I reminded them not to talk to strangers, then noticed the two men sitting at the next table. I hoped they didn’t take it personally. I just wanted to return both children safely to my brother.

We ordered at the counter, where the friendly staff told us they would bring everything to our table. We ordered lemonade ($3.95), an Original Saison ($7.50), salsa and chips ($10), five pork carnitas ($5.75), two Baja fish ($6.50) and four Bang Bang shrimp ($6.50) tacos.

The kids’ lemonade arrived in a modest pour, and both agreed it tasted a little like Gatorade. My saison was bubbly and fruity, with a crisp finish and enough depth to keep it interesting.

The salsa and chips were addictive. The thick-cut chips arrived warm and tasted homemade, while the salsa roja was thin and almost broth-like, with a gentle kick. Jellybean is sensitive to spice, so her tingling tongue confirmed that there was at least some heat.

The pork carnitas featured crispy roasted pork, charred pineapple salsa, radish, cilantro and cheese. The meat was juicy, with crisp, charred edges and a pleasantly salty flavour. A spoonful of leftover salsa added freshness and brought everything together. Roblox enjoyed this taco, although he thought the kitchen could have been more generous with the pork.

The Baja taco came with a large piece of line-caught ling cod, coleslaw, chipotle aioli, green cabbage, pico de gallo and cilantro. The fish was crunchy, although the thick batter was a little oily. The house-made tortilla was soft and tasted fresh. This was the heartiest of the three tacos and the one I would order again.

The Bang Bang shrimp was topped with spicy sauce, guacamole, shaved red onion and pico de gallo. The shrimp was large and crunchy, while the toppings added freshness to each bite. I particularly liked the chunks of avocado and the sauces. Despite its name, I didn’t find it especially spicy. Jellybean disagreed, but she enjoyed her tacos.

Three tacos were enough to fill me up, but heartier eaters may want to order more. Roblox had eaten a late breakfast and still wasn’t full after three pork carnitas. With an early dinner ahead of us, he decided not to order another.

Four Winds may not offer much of a view, but the tacos were very good, my saison hit the spot, and the staff were hospitable. Come to this location for the food, not the scenery. If you want both, Four Winds also has a beach house location in Tsawwassen.

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