On Friday night, the good neighbours reunited! Kournikova and Betty stopped by my place first, where we popped open a bottle of champagne Kournikova had brought along. With Québécoise absent due to prior plans, we toasted and indulged a little extra, with only three flutes filled. Let’s cue up The Fate of Ophelia for this post.
We picked True Wild Distillery for dinner. The white building seems somewhat out of place in the midst of an industrial area. When Chew Steel first brought me here for a surprise date, I joked that I hoped he wasn’t planning to murder me. Inside and out, it’s an impressive space, with high ceilings and a whimsical staircase spiralling upstairs. We were seated right next to the kitchen, arguably the best table in the house, with a sweeping view of the entire restaurant.
Betty ordered the Paper Lantern cocktail ($18), while I followed Kournikova’s lead with a dry, dirty gin martini, stirred. Its flavour was floral and perfectly balanced, and the single olive was so delicious that I found myself wishing I’d asked for more, but our server had a stern vibe, so I held back.
I’d been to True Wild before, so I recommended the beef tartare, fries, and any of the cocktails. We shared the Beef Tartare ($28), Fennel Salad ($24), Pickled Vegetables ($11), Roasted and Glazed Pork Belly ($48), and the Grilled Steelhead Trout ($46). When we asked our server if our order would be sufficient, she recommended another side, so we added the Kennebec Fries ($10). To complement the meal, we also ordered a bottle of Lionel Osmin & Cie Villa Plage Blanche ($70).
The beef tartare had changed since my last visit. Previously, it arrived beneath a nest of matchstick potatoes. This time it came with a potato chips. The meat itself was milder tasting than I remembered, served at a slightly warmer temperature with sweet and tart notes. We like to think of Betty as a bit of a beef tartare devotee, and her current favourite is at Pat and Betty’s, while Kournikova’s favourite spot is FinePrint.
The fennel salad was a standout. Crisp slices of fennel that tasted freshly picked and were dressed in a lovely walnut vinaigrette. It was so simple and refreshing. We would order the salad again.
The pickled vegetables were also a winner. Nice tang, crunch, and the vinegar balance was subtle and perfect. Kournikova pickles her own veggies, and even she agreed they were good. Betty noted the varied selection, cabbage, carrots, and beans, all served with an aioli.
The roasted and glazed pork belly was everyone’s favourite. Betty noted it was buttery with so much flavour, while Kournikova praised the crispy skin, noting that people often get it wrong. Here, the chefs had it perfectly rendered, fat and all. The sugar pumpkin was served roasted, dry and soft, which provided an appreciated contrast to the richness of the meats.
The grilled steelhead was also expertly cooked. The flesh was tender, rich, and soft. However, I was so full I couldn’t finish my portion, and it hurt my soul to leave food on my plate that tasted so good.
We munched away on the fries, which were just as good as last time. We definitely over-ordered. For three women, sharing two mains and a salad is more than enough, as the main courses are generously sized, particularly the pork dish.
I’m looking forward to our next dinner. Bar Gigi, Carino, or maybe The Exchange in Eau Claire. To be continued.
Hitting the Sauce 