Restaurants

Pure Saigonese

Chew Steel and I decided to head out for dinner on Friday night. I’ve been dying to try Pure Saigonese, Lam Pham’s newest restaurant in Marda Loop. In the evenings, Pure Saigonese takes over Diner Deluxe. What a smart way to utilize a space, especially in these economic times. Let’s listen to “This Girl,” featuring Kylie Auldist.

I called to make a reservation, but the restaurant was fully booked. The hostess recommended I come over, and they would find us a seat shortly. When we arrived, we learned the estimated wait was 30 minutes. We decided to have a cocktail at Side Hustle, which is connected to Pure Saigonese.

Side Hustle has a calm, 70s cocktail vibe, with the music set at just the right volume. I’ve visited a few times, and I notice that the staff is welcoming and attentive no matter how busy it gets. We sipped on an old-fashioned cocktail that hit the spot and scored a wicked deal at just twelve bucks during happy hour.

The hostess from Pure walked over to collect us. I was impressed she came instead of just calling me. We were seated by the front entrance, facing the bar. Every time the door opened, a cold draft would hit me. Ah, the joy of Calgary in March, when snow dumps are both a surprise and somehow totally not.

For drinks, we ordered a pint of Asahi ($9, 16 oz). For food, we shared the Shrimp Tempura ($15), Papaya and Mango Salad with Shrimp ($12), and AA Tenderloin Pot of Pho ($32). Portion-wise, this was perfect for us, but if you have a larger appetite, I’d order four dishes per couple or more if you want leftovers.

The salad was absolutely on point. The char on the grilled shrimp reminded me of grilled shrimp tacos from Mexico. The dressing has that perfect balance of sweet, tart and spicy. The fresh basil paired with the crunchy papaya and mango strands made it so herby and fragrant. Chew Steel enjoyed the dry crunch from the shrimp chips. I would get this again.

Oh boy, the tempura shrimp had my inner fei po clapping in delight. The shrimp was giant and sweet with a crisp, delicate batter. The richness of the mayonnaise, combined with the pop of salty tobiko, took me back to Japan. I would easily enjoy the shrimp with a bowl of rice for a meal, like a tempura don.

The AA beef pho didn’t disappoint. Our bowl contained two large pieces of ruby red steak, meatballs, flank and beef ribs. While many restaurants in Calgary make great pho, what sets Pure apart is the quality and tenderness of the meat. The beef ribs are exceptionally soft and meaty. The noodles are smooth and bouncy. The dark broth tasted how it looked and smelled, intensely rich. Chew Steel noticed that even the hoisin sauce was different, almost like it had a hint of chilli oil.

Lam’s food reminds me of the original Anju. I’m already planning a dinner for my father when he comes to Calgary. It has a family-friendly vibe, and I can see my parents feeling comfortable here. Hitting the Sauce gives Pure Saigonese two phat thumbs up. 

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