We took a day trip to Edinburgh from Newcastle. It’s a 1.5-hour train ride away, and staying in Newcastle meant we saved around $500 on our hotel room. For this post, let’s listen to the Arctic Monkeys, “Do I Wanna Know?”.

My brother, Narc, strongly recommended visiting Edinburgh Castle (£24), and his wife suggested the Palace of Holyroodhouse (£25). However, he texted me “Hollywood”, so the entire time we were in Edinburgh, I told locals who asked me where I was going next that I was heading to Hollywood Castle, instead of “Haw-Lee-rood” Palace.

We arrived at the train station and walked up the Royal Mile. Holy, I’ve never seen such an impressive mile in my life. We walked down cobble streets aligned with towering medieval and Renaissance buildings. The piercing sound of bagpipes, mournful yet inspiring, almost stopped us in our tracks. The sight of the buildings, churches, and ancient castles was even more stunning to me than my visits to Dubrovnik or Greece. Chew Steel asked me if my father had ever visited Scotland. No, I responded, he hasn’t, likely because Scotland doesn’t have enough composers to compel him to fly over.

In no time, we made it to Edinburgh Castle, just as the rain began to fall. Not the warm summer rain I’m used to in Calgary, but a sharp, bone-cold drizzle that chilled my bare legs and arms like a bottle of wine. I miscalculated the weather. In Liverpool and Newcastle, a heatwave occurred, and I incorrectly assumed the weather would be warmer.

No worries, I wrongly thought again, as I would be warm once inside the castle.  Edinburgh Castle is perched on a rock, and most of the tour is outside, exploring the main gate, the open plaza, the main courtyard, and the artillery areas. The warmest spot was the prison, which was cozy with its puppet light show and rows of hammocks and blankets. I was shivering so badly I wanted to crawl into one of the beds.

I also realized too late why my brother liked this castle so much. It was all military-related: the Mons Meg, a medieval cannon; the One O’Clock Gun; and a section dedicated to a vast array of medals, swords, and other symbols of military valour. The castle was originally a royal residence, but it later evolved into a military fortress. Edinburgh itself has a very long military history.

When we left, the sun came out again and dried my clothes. For lunch, we headed to Salt Horse, which is located in the centre of the city, a few blocks away from all the action. We sat down, a table away from an Asian female and her Caucasian partner. This detail will make sense in the following paragraphs.

The bartender knows his craft, not just about the history of the brewery or the style of beer making, but also about current anecdotes related to certain bottles. I told him about a delicious raspberry I tried at the Broad Chare. He recommended I try Timmermans Black Pepper Lambicus (£6.80), a bubbly Belgian beer. Chew Steel ordered Kriek Boon (£6).

What a lovely beverage! Thick and fragrant, the black cherries tasted and smelled a little like fresh pink roses. The black pepper was subtle and complemented the dark fruit. I’m a fan. Chew Steel enjoyed his beer was well.

As we sipped our beers, our bartender dropped off a plate of wings at our table. I told him we hadn’t ordered this, and he looked genuinely puzzled. The woman sitting next to us chimed in, “That was ours.” He laughed and said, “Oh well, you can see why I got confused about who ordered what. Right?” He gestured to us and then to them. One interracial couple exchanged a glance with another, and a silent moment of recognition passed between us. I joked to our doppelgangers, “We all look alike.” She laughed and offered to share the wings, which was very Asian of her. I declined, even though I really wanted one, and introduced myself, because we’re probably related, somehow.

Her name was Lisa; she was originally from San Francisco and now lived in Paris. She and her husband were heading to Montreal and Quebec City. I gave them some travel tips — where to go and, just as importantly, where not to go. Lisa wished us goodbye, and her husband disclosed Lisa was after some haggis, as she’s a devout foodie. For once in my life, I bit my tongue, but my eyes registered with Lisa’s husband, and I nodded in understanding.

For food, Chew Steel and I both ordered the Bowhouse (£15), which features dry-aged beef and bone marrow, accompanied by homemade, twice-cooked fries. This is a tasty burger! I could taste the bone marrow in the patty, which complemented the dryish texture well. I would come here again.

After our meal, we made it down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, which was much more hospitable. The palace was full of interesting twists and turns, like the royal portraits and Mary, Queen of Scots’ private chambers, where her secretary was murdered by her husband. We finished the tour with a walk through the royal gardens.  

We checked out some other areas, famous streets, and the most impressive statue honouring writer Sir Walter Scott, housed under a towering Gothic structure. Exhausted, we headed back to Newcastle for the night. One more day in London and we were back home! To be continued.