I didn’t want a lobster roll from just anywhere, so I waited for the opportunity to go somewhere known specifically for their crustaceans. We packed our bags, and before leaving for the airport, we dropped by James Hook. For this post, let’s listen to “Should I Stay or Should I Go” by The Clash.
We arrived half an hour after James Hook opened, so it was still quiet. I told L to grab a table in the shade while I walked up to the food truck to order two large Lobster Rolls w/butter ($38.99), Sauvignon Blanc ($12) and a James Hook Summer Wheat Ale ($9).
I sipped on my wine and watched an older man sit quietly in the corner, carefully dissecting an entire lobster. His face was stern, and he never looked up, laser-focused on extracting all the meat from the shells. I saw an Asian dude around my age eating a small lobster roll and clam chowder. His back was turned to me so that I couldn’t read his expression. A couple of friends ordered several items and had to keep going to the food truck for napkins and hand sanitizer. After I was done spying and satisfied that we had hit the jackpot of tourist attractions, our food was ready.
Unlike all the other customers who had to wait at the truck, the employee brought out our food. I think this was because I tipped, and no one was waiting in line when our food was ready. I handed L his lobster roll and could tell it was heavier than mine. I complained bitterly, and without a moment’s hesitation, he switched our rolls. I felt myself swooning from his chivalry. We both took a second to admire our lobster rolls, piled so high that we had to cradle the toasted roll in the cardboard and foil when we ate. Otherwise, the meat would tumble off.
I couldn’t believe how much lobster tail and claws were in my sandwich. I poured the hot butter over the top of the bun, but there was so much that I ended up dipping the chunks of meat as the butter couldn’t make its way down to the bottom. The lobster was warm, light and clean. The red and white meat was succulent and tender, with a pleasant toothsome crunch to it. L and I have never eaten so much seafood in one sitting. I liked how all you could taste was the natural sweetness of the juicy lobster rather than seasoning or condiments.
The Canadian dollar is weak, so the two rolls and drinks cost me about $140 after the conversion. However, it was well worth it since we live in the prairies. It was an experience we couldn’t get elsewhere. Hitting the Sauce gives James Hook two phat claws up.
On our second last day, we checked out the Institute of Contemporary Art. L scoped out the area and suggested Row 34 for lunch. Before I left for this trip, my colleague Happy recommended Row 34, so I was up for it. I also knew there was a variety of craft beers for L to choose from.
The restaurant has high ceilings and a lofty warehouse vibe I noticed all the servers were on top of their game, professional and always posed to elevate customers’ experience. The weather on this particular day was awful, so we sat in a corner, watching the sheets of rain pour down through the window.
We weren’t too hungry and wanted something light to tie us over until dinner. I knew mussels weren’t in season, but I still ordered the Lager Steamed Mussels ($18). L wanted New England Clam Chowder ($13). Our server picked a crisp white wine (Domaine de la Ferrandière, $14) to go with my mussels, and L ordered Rally ($10), a session IPA.
My mussels were small and ordinary. The sourdough bread was too hard to eat, but I enjoyed L’s cornbread, which arrived in a big cast-iron pan. Oh boy, the bread was light and sweet, fluffy and soaked in sweet maple butter. The portion was so large that L could only eat half, so I gobbled up the remainder. L thought the clam chowder was even better than Bostonia Public House.
After the rain subsided, we walked to the Institute of Contemporary Art. When L got our tickets, the employee mentioned our admission was five dollars less because two exhibitions were closed. We took the elevator to the fourth floor and spent half an hour analyzing Simone Leigh’s sculptures. I was impressed with sheer enormity and the deep impression each piece imprinted on me. Once we were done, L said that was it and it was time to go. Unconvinced, I went back downstairs and double-checked it was just the Simone Leigh exhibition. The employee nodded and mentioned that’s why they gave us a discount, and typically, there is a watershed tour, but due to the rain, it was cancelled. The employee next to her snickered and looked delighted in my disappointment. L and I checked out some more museums and historical sites before our last dinner in Boston.
David, the friendly regular, recommended Oleana, as did my restaurant informer, Bottleneek. I couldn’t get reservations beforehand, so we went right when it opened and caught a table outside. Let’s listen to “Aman Avcı Vurma Beni” by Kemal Tanriverdi for this post.
We sat on the colourful outdoor patio amid leafy plants and a spouting water fountain. Two musicians played their instruments all evening, gently plucking away on their strings. Our young server provided us with an overview of the menu and, when asked, gave us his recommendations. I ordered a glass of white wine (Malagousia Blend, Theopetra Estate, Meteora, Thessaly, Greece, $17) while L selected a local beer (Lamplighter Brewing Co, Cambridge, MA, $14).
The Za’atar Bread ($11) was a ten out of ten. The bread is miraculous. Soft, light and spongy, the bread was salty from the Moroccan spices and walnut muhammara and fresh from the ribbons of cucumber and mint. I would get this again.
The Fatteh ($15) reminded me of a savoury dessert. I relished the fatty crunch of the pastry sheet and the soft curried cauliflower. The caramelized onions, pine nuts and yogurt made this dish just zing with intensity. The fatteh is another winner.
I read several reviews raving about the Spinach Falafel ($15), so I had to order it. We were instructed to roll each falafel with the flatbread and greens. I didn’t follow our server’s instructions, and instead, I broke apart the crunchy falafel into pieces, mixing the tahini, sour pickles, pine nuts and tzatziki. The spinach leaves were thick and wild looking.
Each dish came out leisurely, so we could take our time and savoured each dish. I ordered a non-alcoholic drink, the Rose Lemonade ($7), because the first glass of wine was enough for me in the heat. Our server noticed my lemonade was missing the rose petals, so he returned to the kitchen to remake another one. It’s this level of detail and attention from a server that elevates a great experience into a memorable one.
I was most curious about the Lamb & Eggplant Moussaka ($17). The lamb was rich and saucy, with a touch of sweetness. The mint and beet chips added a complimentary brightness to the mellow, soft flavours of the potato and eggplant. I would have preferred if the eggplant was not as chewy, but that’s my preference.
Our server highly recommended the Sultan’s Delight ($18), a dish he eats on every shift. I barely had to chew because the braised beef was so tender. I loved flaking the layers of beef off and swirling it in the puree. Eating the meat and eggplant puree in one bite was rich, sweet and smoky. The crowning glory was the single basil leaf that left an intense floral taste. We both agreed this was the winning dish of the night.
The chefs behind the food hit the nail with presentation and most importantly, the texture and flavour combinations. L noted all the ingredient went exceptionally well together. Paired with excellent service and serene back drop, this restaurant is a winner in my books. I can see why this restaurant is booked well in advance. L announced this was the best meal we had in Boston. Hitting the Sauce gives Oleana two fat thumbs up.
I booked our second tour, Freedom Trail: Small Group Tour of Revolutionary Boston. While I’m an avid reader, when exploring a new city, I prefer the experience of being guided to major historical points. It also helped that our guide, Drew just finished his degree from theBoston Fine Arts Theatre Arts. His flair for drama enriched the stories he recounted on our tour. For this post, let’s listen to “Freedom 90′” by George Michael.
The significant points of interest for me were the Old South Meeting House, where the famous Boston Tea Party began and the Old State House, where the speeches sparked the rebellious acts of defiance. Drew walked us over to Little Italy, where we passed Paul Revere House, the oldest building in Boston, and then concluded the tour with a patriotic speech overlooking Bunker Hill.
At around 1:00 p.m., I dragged my beloved to Neptune Oyster, but the line was so long that we wandered over to a pub for a beer and fries. By the time we returned, around 2:15 p.m., the line was shorter. We waited about 40 minutes, and in that time, I regaled the customers in front and behind me of the delicious gloriousness that awaited them at Neptune Oyster. I could tell that waiting in line exhausted L, as he was still tired from the day before, and my hyping up crowds under the scorching sun didn’t help.
When we received our drinks, there were some empty seats around us. The mood changes when it’s not jam-packed with customers. Employees clustered around regulars and chatted with them about their day. An employee slipped out of the kitchen and sat at the bar to enjoy a meal. There’s nothing more comforting in my eyes than an employee taking a moment to eat a meal at their workplace.
I tried L’s beer, which was the best pint on the trip. I enjoyed the tiny bubbles and clean flavour profile ($11). I tried the rose ($14) from the day before, as our server recognized me and remembered that “everyone was drinking that rose that day.”
I ordered four of the Cherrystone clams ($2.90) while encouraging L to try the oysters ($3-3.50). Ah, the clams were just as good as yesterday, salty, sweet and tasting of the ocean. The plump meat was cold with a satisfying chew to it. L noted Neptune’s oysters were far better than the Bostonia Public House.
Next, we supped on Bluefin Tuna ($21). The tuna was buttery and smooth, but it was the addition of the crunchy seeds and salt made the crudo pop. I liked the dollop of olive oil and nutty flavour from the sunflowers.
We ordered the Neptune Johnnycake ($19); I knew immediately he would like it. L has a sweet tooth, and nothing makes him happier than dessert. Holy smokes, this is a winning dish.
We sat silently, slowly picking away the cake, enjoying the sweet, savoury flavours. The contrast between the honey butter, creamy smoked fish puree and sturgeon caviar was unusual and delicious. L raved that this was the best dish he’s eaten on the trip. He loved the crispy texture and the unique flavour combination.
For dessert, I ordered Fried Clams ($28). I don’t think Neptune, the godly chef from the previous day, cooked this order of clams. It might have been his apprentice because while it was good, it wasn’t out of this world like it was when I first tried it. The difference was that the clams weren’t as fat, and the batter was crisper, so it didn’t crumble and melt in my mouth like the last time. The clam belly was firmer, more like a standard fried oyster than a jiggly gift from the sea.
As my new friends from the lineup left the restaurant, they came to thank me for my recommendations. Perhaps I missed my true calling as a hype person for rap music. L agreed with me that Neptune is worth the lengthy lineup. I tried to pay for the meal, but L swiped my hand away and told me to quit it. Thank you, L, for humouring me and taking me out one last time at Neptune Oyster. Hitting the Sauce gives Neptune Oyster two phat thumbs up.
I booked a Ghosts & Gravestones Trolley Tour when L returned to the hotel. I knew this would be a silly excursion, but I was curious about the small cemeteries scattered throughout the downtown core. For this post, let’s listen to “Smokin” by Boston.
The tour was corny, and the stories were grossly exaggerated (and historically inaccurate). Still, we had fun jumping on and off the bus and stopping by the Granary Burying Ground and King’s Chapel Burying Ground. Walking through the grounds, we learned a little about the American patriots who died in the battle of Bunker Hill. We stopped by the graves of Paul Revere, Samuel Adams, John Hancock, and Robert Treat Paine. The latter three were signers of the Declaration of Independence. The tour would have been more fun in October, with a cooler temperature and the smell of autumn in the air.
As it was late when we finished our tour, I suggested we try Peach Farm, located in Chinatown. All the employees were friendly, welcoming and attentive. We ordered Lobster with Green Scallion and Ginger ($60), Clams in Black Bean Sauce ($23), Shrimp Chowmein ($16), Steamed Rice ($2) and two beers ($12).
The clams arrived quickly. I liked eating the saucy clams with steamed rice, as the simplicity of hot white rice accents the meatiness of the clams and the saltiness of the black bean sauce. I enjoyed the clams but was annoyed to find a bit of sand in a couple, as the grating texture was off-putting.
The lobster was so hot the shells blistered my fingers. The meat popped out easily from its red claws. The lobster meat was fresh tasting, with a pleasing toothsome crunch. The ginger and scallion sauce was buttery, luscious, and so messy our server dropped off some extra napkins. I couldn’t help but think of my family when I ate my lobster, as my mom always ordered both king crab and lobster at our monthly dinners. Back then, the rationale for ordering such extravagant seafood dishes was simply because we were out. My mother, Boss Lady, has an extreme personality. For her, it’s go big or don’t go out at all.
I was content with supping on the clams and lobster with rice, but L was channeling Boss Lady and wanted another dish. I found the chow mein lacklustre. The shrimp was rubbery and tasteless. The sauce itself was void of seasoning or wok hey. This dish was crying out for some MSG! I felt like David, the friendly regular from Neptune Oyster, in that I wanted to tell L that I make a better chow mein at home.
Overall, I enjoyed my meal. Service was warm and sincere, which made up for the chow mein. Judging from the crowd, Peach Farm is a popular restaurant for everyone, from families, dates, regulars to tourists. I left stuffed and not crabby, as I was full of lobster.
On Sunday, L was gone for the entire day. I originally planned to visit Martha’s Vineyard but didn’t want to be stuck on a tour bus for hours, so instead, I opted to check out the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts. Before L left, he asked me to please be aware of my surroundings. I told him honestly that I couldn’t promise him that, but not to worry as I planned to Uber everywhere. Let’s listen to “West End Girls” by the Pet Shop Boys.
The Gardner Museum was something special. I walked through the entrance garden through rooms filled with international treasures. I didn’t feel like I was in a museum but a very wealthy woman’s house. I preferred how there were no descriptions in the Gardner Museum, as I realized reading takes away from the visual experience. I spent about two hours wandering through the halls and floors because every time there were loud children, I would run out to enjoy the serenity in the quieter rooms, then return when I was alone again.
At around 2:30 p.m., I decided to check out Neptune Oyster. The wait was only half an hour, as there’s a sweet spot after lunch and before dinner when it’s less busy. The hostess was welcoming and told me I was lucky to sit at the bar as a friendly regular, and two employees were seated to my left. To my right were two women who looked annoyed to be next to me, even though they wanted to sit at the bar.
I asked my server to recommend a white wine to pair with oysters, and she suggested the Muscat ($13). I ordered four medium-sized oysters, a Littleneck and a Cherrystone clam. I looked around to figure out what to order next, but I arrived at a lull and could only see plates of oysters and lobster rolls.
The friendly regular and the two employees were drinking glasses of rose. I could tell by watching them that the wine tasted better than mine. Their carefree smiles glowed as they gulped down the pink liquid. The server would continuously fill up their glasses from what appeared to be a bottomless bottle. For my next glass, I asked to drink what they were drinking, and it was a far superior wine ($14).
I asked the friendly regular next to me what he recommended. David paused dramatically and then went into a full-on gourmet speech, just like David Chang and Anthony Bourdain in the Netflix food documentaries. It may be an American thing, but they are much more passionate when speaking.
I asked David’s opinion on Neptune’s lobster rolls, and he said a lobster roll is a lobster roll; it’s simply lobster and bread. He and his son can make a fantastic one at home, so when he comes to Neptune’s, he’s looking for something different. I quizzed him about the fried clams, and he said the fried clams are great, but he can get excellent fried clams right in his neighbourhood. Exasperated, I explained that I was only around for a few days and couldn’t make lobster rolls at home, and there wasn’t a famous clam place where I lived. He pondered a little and offered me a sample of his soft-shell crab ($24), which I found delicate.
The oysters ($2.90-$3.50) were pristine and immaculately shucked. However, it was the clams that blew me away. The Littleneck was sweet and tender, while the Cherrystone was salty with a bouncy chew, with a texture between a squid and scallop.
I told David that the clams were far superior than I could get in Vancouver. He quoted Barack Obama’s speech on how Boston is one of America’s iconic and world’s finest cities. Americans are patriotic. I’ve never referenced our prime ministers except to mention Trudeau wears excellently tailored suits. Swoosh, swoosh, swoosh, that’s the sound his jacket and pants make as he walks by.
I showed David my list of to-go places, and he told me not to bother with Toro. He’s never heard of Yankee Lobster; James Hook is good, but again, not as good as he can make it (with browned butter), and Oleana in Cambridge is worth the trek. He recommended Peach Farm and has tried the king crab.
I chose the Fried Clams ($28), and oh my goodness, the chef must be the god of the sea, Neptune himself, because never have I ever eaten such perfectly cooked clams. The clams were giant, like a cluster of oysters stuck together like enoki tempura. Sublimely cooked, the center of the clam was still milky and eggy. The other parts of the clam were pleasantly chewy. The flavour of the meat was sweet and briny, with a crispy exterior protecting the fat, creamy belly meat. I would get this again.
I also tried a bite of David’s lobster burrata ($43). This dish reminded me of the creations I tried at Le Pappilion in Montreal. The herby fragrance from the basil popped against the subtle flavour of the burrata and sweet lobster meat. The portion was large enough for two. I would get this again as well.
When I told the two employees beside David I was returning the next day, they suggested the crudo and Johnny Cakes. I pondered out loud if I should return to Neptune for every meal in my remaining time. David shook his head and strongly recommended going to Oleana and sitting on the patio. It turns out he was right. What an introduction to the high quality shellfish in Boston. Unbelievable! And to be continued.
Hitting the Sauce 