My friends Lululemon, Divine Offering, Kournikova, and 47 attended Juice Import’s special event with Franz Weninger, a winemaker from Austria and Hungary. We arrived at Vine Arts in Calgary’s Beltline District and were welcomed by Erik Mercier and Mark Couillard with a glass of Weinland White. Before I forget, let’s play a little music to go along with this post, Hospital by Sightlines.
We sat at the front of the tasting table closest to Franz. A semicircle of red wines, in varying red jewel hues, surrounded each of us. As we settled in, we nibbled on our cheese-and-meat platter from Peasant Cheese. Lululemon offered me her meat because she’s a vegetarian, and 47 later asked me if I wanted her tomato because she wryly noticed that I enjoyed mine a little too much. I was happy to be the recipient of their charity castoffs. I could taste the warmth of the sun in the sweet tomato. Peasant Cheese uses the best produce on its boards.
Franz wineries were built on his father’s organic farm by converting the estate to biodynamic farming, a practice that treats the farm as a self-sustaining ecosystem to enhance soil and plant well-being. I usually find wine knowledge dry, but he has a Harry Potter way of talking about biodynamics that, well, is lumos!
Right off the bat, he stated he doesn’t like being asked about his favourite wines or to describe a wine’s characteristics. He believes that, as everyone has different tastes, it should be they who describe their experiences, not him. Franz identifies first and foremost as a farmer. He’d rather focus on making good wine, and for him, that begins with the land and seeking balance.
The first wine we sampled was the Rosza Petsovits (Vine Arts discount: $31.48), a blend of Syrah, Blaufrankisch and Merlot. The vineyard was his grandmother’s. She was born in 1921, and he recalled she grew vegetables on the land. The plot was part of Hungary until it became Austria due to regional politics.
I felt energized after sipping this wine. There was a charge to it. I caught Kournikova and 47 looking at each other and nodding in approval. I made a mental note to snag a couple of bottles. I could see myself sipping on this on my patio in the summer.
The next wine, the Balf Kékfrankos (Vine Arts discount: $32.09), caught me off guard. One sip and it opened into something piney, almost forest-like. The Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir grapes are grown on limestone in Austria, and the Syrah is grown in Hungary. The grapes are grown at a lower altitude in warmer conditions than in the next wine, the Hochaker Blaufrankisch. I bought a bottle.
We compared the Balf to the Hochacker Blaufrankish, which is grown at a higher altitude with colder temperatures, producing a darker wine with more power. I found this wine acidic and thought it paired well with the hard cheese.
The Kirchholz Blaufrankisch (Vine Arts discount: $49.05) was so good, I had to buy a bottle. I found this wine super smooth. We learned it comes from a single vineyard from one of his most prized sites, land once owned by the Church. The 50- to 80-year-old vines grow on stony topsoil.
My favourite bottle was the Saybritz Blaufrankisch (Vine Arts discount: $67.04). I can’t describe the flavour, but I can feel the love in this wine. The land once belonged to Franz’s great-aunt in a northern part of Austria, who grew fruit and vegetables. The 55-year-old vines lie on blue-green slate, under a topsoil of calcareous clay. The plot is so tiny, no machine works the land, and it’s even too small for a horse. I bought a bottle for my friends and me to enjoy.
Next up was the Steiner Kékfrankos. This one felt different right away, impressive and silky. Franz talked about how to get the best from his land. Limestone, concrete, wood, they all play a big role, but he also questioned about balancing intervening and letting the land speak through the wine.
The last wine was the Kalkofen Blaufrankisch. This wine really woke up my taste buds. I found it heavy yet smooth. Kournikova said she could taste smokiness.
Erik peeked in as we were wrapping up. I asked if any of Franz’s wines were available, as I know they’re often sold out. He paused, then said there were only a few bottles of each, though we could order more through Vine Arts.
I immediately reached over and grabbed four from Franz’s tasting display. Someone in the back called out that his credit card was ready too, and it wasn’t fair that I took them all. I pointed him to the shop floor and said there were more there. I don’t go to Juice Imports tastings to make friends. I bring my own.
I was chatting with Jesse, one of the owners at Vine Arts, and asked if anything else was tucked away. He found one more Rosza Petsovits. Forty-seven clearly wanted it, and since I already had two, I passed it over. Lululemon commended my generosity. I agreed. My good deed for the day was accomplished.
This wine tasting was bittersweet because I had plans to visit Austria with Juice Imports in 2026 with Lululemon and Divine Offering. Unfortunately, our trip was cancelled due to unforeseen obstacles. Thank you, Franz and Juice Imports, for bringing that Austrian / Hungarian magic to Calgary! Hitting the Sauce gives Franz Weninger and his land two phat thumbs up.
Hitting the Sauce 