Letty Pizza

I met up with Lovegastrogirl at Letty Pizza, a new restaurant in the Beltline. After seeing all those blooming zucchini blossoms on Letty’s Instagram, I couldn’t resist the urge to squash my curiosity. Let’s listen to “Sugalumps” by the Flight of the Conchords.

If you come, I highly recommend sitting at the bar. There is ample space between each chair and enough space behind you to pull out your seat and cross your legs. The best part is watching the chefs in action and observing the attention to detail everyone puts into the final creation.

We started with an Espresso Martini ($14). My martini was on the sweet side. As we sipped, Lovegastrogirl noted the owner and chef, Daniel Ramon, was working. She mentioned Daniel came from Teatro, and he was the chef behind Clos de la Oyster Barre. I don’t keep up with who’s who in the culinary zoo, but I admired his teaminship. I saw Daniel check each station and help as needed, even picking up an empty box in the corner. He reminds me of a director I work with who’s always on the ground helping her team and simultaneously steering the operations.

Our first dish was the Salmon Crudo ($22). The salmon was cool in temperature and fatty in flavour. I liked the tart brightness of the passionfruit vinaigrette paired with the chilled slices of salmon. The taro root chip added a satisfying crunch, while the fresh basil leaf and basil oil added a subtle herbaceous notes.

Our second dish was the Grilled Cabbage ($17). Several restaurants in Calgary make killer cabbage dishes, such as Pigeonhole and Ten Foot Henry. I find Pigeonhole’s sauce overly decadent and Ten Foot Henry’s version of cabbage too chewy and thick. Letty’s was my Goldilocks moment—just right. I declare Letty the winner.

Each thin, crisp crunch was silky and crunchy, with a mouthwatering char. The hot honey vinaigrette gave it a spicy kick, while the pistachios added a crunchy and nutty texture. The Manchego cheese added an element of richness that went with the sweet, mellow cabbage slices. I would order this again.

Lovegastrogirl suggested the Japanese Curry Pizza ($28). I did not expect to love this pizza as much as I did. The pizza reminded me of eating naan and curry or a Japanese curry bun. The curry packed a punch, and combined with the soft, stretchy dough, it fired off on all cylinders. The richness of melt-in-your-mouth braised pork shoulder, the zing of the green onion and the crunch of panko breadcrumbs were fabulous. I would order this again.

Now, let’s talk about the dough. You cannot compare the pizza from Letty to Noble or Savino (not to be confused with Savona), my other favourite pizza places. Letty’s is in its category, just like Noble and Savino. Letty’s bread is soft and fluffy and, despite not being crispy, holds up very well to toppings, like the curry. The crust has a wholesome flavour that marries well into non-traditional ingredients in a way that more traditional doughs would not.

Our server suggested we try the 2022 Kerpen Riesling from Germany ($14) to complement the curry pizza. She was right, and I was pleasantly surprised by the pairing! The sweet wine was nicely chilled, had a heavy texture, and was refreshing.

For our second pizza, we tried the Margherita ($22). I remember the owner of Full Circle saying you can test the actual quality of a pizza by the margarita, as you can’t hide behind the ingredients. The crust was beautifully puffy, with nice air pockets around the crust. The tomato sauce’s flavour was vibrant and tangy. Unlike the basil in the crudo, the basil on the pizza had a more intense aroma.

The kitchen’s quality control is impressive. I noticed the pizza chef occasionally tossing pies into what I thought was a takeout container under the counter. Then I saw how he would frown and disdainfully throw those ones under the counter. I asked him why, and he said he was discarding pizzas because they were too small, had holes, or the crust didn’t bubble up. That’s impressive quality control.

Lovegastrogirl mentioned her favourite pizza spot is Posto, but now, she prefers Letty. She pointed out that she ate her crust tonight, which she never does at Posto. We had pizza left over, so we divided it up and took it home. Pomp, Lovegastrogirl’s husband, picked us up from the restaurant. She told Pomp she liked the crust at Letty’s more than Posto. He was pretty surprised, as it turns out it’s a big deal that Lovegastrogirl discovered something even better than Posto and actually ate her crust.

The next day, after Chew Steel reheated the pizzas in our air fryer, he commented the curry was nicely balanced, not overwhelmingly sweet or spicy. He noted the fior di latte in the margarita was noticeably good. As for the crust, he was a fan, which means we have to return to try other pizzas. Letty Pizza, I salute your unusual and remarkable pizza dough!