Erik, co-owner of Juice Imports, visited Calgary and hosted an all-red wine lineup event ($50) at Vine Arts on 17th Avenue SW. When Chew Steel (formerly known as L) and I arrived, we were handed a glass of Tomato Wheels Lambrusco. I see this sparkling red wine everywhere in Calgary, and I noticed it’s popular with sommeliers, as it is always highly recommended. As we were sipping this delightfully fizzy beverage, I bumped into Alia, a co-worker at my previous place of employment. For this post, let’s listen to some chill French cafe music.
Erik dreamed up this session because he said the phrase, “I only drink red,” is the most common comment he’s heard here in Alberta, partly due to the calibre of the province’s beef and long winters. He described the wines we were about to try as “nerdy” and fun.
The first tasting was Jochen Beurer Trollinger ($34.11), one of his favourites in his lineup, and a wine he helped make in 2020. Light and bright, our wine master commented this drank like a white wine. The grapes themselves are big and juicy, thin-skinned and ruby red.
The second wine was Pinard et Filles Vin de Jardin ($51.83, discount $46.65), one of the rarest in his wine portfolio. The winery exports only to Paris, New York, Ontario, and, due to Erik’s persistence, Alberta. The fragrance was fantastic, and I loved how different this wine was from anything I had tasted. I asked Erik why this wine tasted so unusual. He explained that the grapes are resilient and hearty, and the genetic profile of these hybrid grapes is unfamiliar to most wine drinkers. He tasted “roses, hippy, floral and something utterly haunting.” Erik recommended pairing this wine with something opposite of its flavour, such as meaty French dishes, beef, liver, steak, or blood sausage.
Erik mentioned he only had six remaining bottles of this garden wine and other limited quantities of the rest of the lineup. Alia said she would battle it out with me. She mentioned she was competitive, and I said I wasn’t, which is true because the word I would use to describe myself in these situations is ‘pour’severant. Whenever I enjoyed a wine, I trotted downstairs and asked an employee to tuck it away for me. I fancied this wine so much that I bought three bottles, two for me and one for my friend Lululemon.
The third wine was Craven Firs Syrah ($40.21). It smelled like a conventional red wine, but it tasted sweet and silky. Erik noted dark fruit, like figs or blueberry pie. He mentioned the wine maker’s philosophy revolves around texture and noted factors that affect the style and flavour of red wine, such as stems, maceration, and oak. Another interesting fact is Cabernet Sauvignon contains white juice.
I enjoyed the fourth wine, Pacina Rosso Toscana (2014, $46.98). Chew Steel took a shine to this red, which I found fresh, light and dry. The sips with sediment tasted better than the first sip without. Erik described the scent as roses in their riper stage, and another customer likened it to the smell of a leather jacket.
I asked Erik about wine markup at restaurants and what to expect for a wine I buy at a liquor store for around thirty bucks. A customer piped up and mentioned the Keg doesn’t markup any of their wines. I told Chew Steel that we have to start dining there again. I mentioned to the other guests that Class Clown sells the best priced wines in town, and you can get a good one for only $50.
The fifth wine was Domaine Breton Nuits d”Ivresses ($44.70), a dry wine that pleasantly puckered my mouth. Chew Steel enjoyed this wine. Erik communicated that the winemaker is a legend in France and told us this wine uses Cabernet Franc from 50-plus-year-old vines from several terroirs, grown in primarily clay and limestone.
The sixth wine was Domaine Richaud Terre De Gallets ($37.37, discount $33.63). Chew Steel and I agreed this was our second favourite wine. Erik mentioned that marketing dictates price; the more successful a winery is, the better price they can get. This winery is less marketed than its neighbours, reflected in its price to customers. I bought two bottles. Erik recommends pairing this wine with lamb and thinking of what grows well in the region’s landscape rolling hills, such as wild lavender, rosemary, oregano, and garlic.
Erik advised us that vintages can differ yearly due to countless factors and explained how some wineries can create the same flavour profile year after year. I quizzed him on his stance on consistency versus the style of dynamic wines he sells. For example, if I splurge on a bottle, I want to know what I’m getting, hence my fondness for his wine tastings. Torn, he expressed it comes down to two different experiences. He enjoys the emotional expression of his lineup and the fun that comes from tasting wildly different flavours and textures. He compared these wine styles to Marc Seguin’s work (i.e. dynamic) versus the familiarity you can get at IKEA (i.e. consistency). He said it was like comparing the familiarity and affordability of Campbell’s chicken soup and his love for his grandmother’s soup, which changes based on the ingredients in her kitchen.
The bonus tasting is from a place I’m familiar from past events, Laurent Cazottes. The farm produces incredible liqueurs from tomatoes, walnuts, pears, plums and grapes. 2015 Folle Noir (discount $34.51) is made with 50-plus-year-old grapes, its whole berries macerated in a distillate from Folle Noir from the previous vintage. I bought three bottles, some for gifts.
Thanks, Erik, for hosting an epic wine session. Your Calgary customers badly needed the ‘pour-fact’ guidance from their favourite wine expert, who always uncorks the secrets of superb wines.
Hitting the Sauce 