Boston · Restaurants

Row 34 and Oleana

On our second last day, we checked out the Institute of Contemporary Art. L scoped out the area and suggested Row 34 for lunch. Before I left for this trip, my colleague Happy recommended Row 34, so I was up for it. I also knew there was a variety of craft beers for L to choose from.

The restaurant has high ceilings and a lofty warehouse vibe I noticed all the servers were on top of their game, professional and always posed to elevate customers’ experience. The weather on this particular day was awful, so we sat in a corner, watching the sheets of rain pour down through the window.

We weren’t too hungry and wanted something light to tie us over until dinner. I knew mussels weren’t in season, but I still ordered the Lager Steamed Mussels ($18). L wanted New England Clam Chowder ($13). Our server picked a crisp white wine (Domaine de la Ferrandière, $14) to go with my mussels, and L ordered Rally ($10), a session IPA.


My mussels were small and ordinary. The sourdough bread was too hard to eat, but I enjoyed L’s cornbread, which arrived in a big cast-iron pan. Oh boy, the bread was light and sweet, fluffy and soaked in sweet maple butter. The portion was so large that L could only eat half, so I gobbled up the remainder. L thought the clam chowder was even better than Bostonia Public House.


After the rain subsided, we walked to the Institute of Contemporary Art. When L got our tickets, the employee mentioned our admission was five dollars less because two exhibitions were closed. We took the elevator to the fourth floor and spent half an hour analyzing Simone Leigh’s sculptures. I was impressed with sheer enormity and the deep impression each piece imprinted on me. Once we were done, L said that was it and it was time to go. Unconvinced, I went back downstairs and double-checked it was just the Simone Leigh exhibition. The employee nodded and mentioned that’s why they gave us a discount, and typically, there is a watershed tour, but due to the rain, it was cancelled. The employee next to her snickered and looked delighted in my disappointment. L and I checked out some more museums and historical sites before our last dinner in Boston.

David, the friendly regular, recommended Oleana, as did my restaurant informer, Bottleneek. I couldn’t get reservations beforehand, so we went right when it opened and caught a table outside. Let’s listen to “Aman Avcı Vurma Beni” by Kemal Tanriverdi for this post.

We sat on the colourful outdoor patio amid leafy plants and a spouting water fountain. Two musicians played their instruments all evening, gently plucking away on their strings. Our young server provided us with an overview of the menu and, when asked, gave us his recommendations. I ordered a glass of white wine (Malagousia Blend, Theopetra Estate, Meteora, Thessaly, Greece, $17) while L selected a local beer (Lamplighter Brewing Co, Cambridge, MA, $14).

The Za’atar Bread ($11) was a ten out of ten. The bread is miraculous. Soft, light and spongy, the bread was salty from the Moroccan spices and walnut muhammara and fresh from the ribbons of cucumber and mint. I would get this again.

The Fatteh ($15) reminded me of a savoury dessert. I relished the fatty crunch of the pastry sheet and the soft curried cauliflower. The caramelized onions, pine nuts and yogurt made this dish just zing with intensity. The fatteh is another winner.

I read several reviews raving about the Spinach Falafel ($15), so I had to order it. We were instructed to roll each falafel with the flatbread and greens. I didn’t follow our server’s instructions, and instead, I broke apart the crunchy falafel into pieces, mixing the tahini, sour pickles, pine nuts and tzatziki. The spinach leaves were thick and wild looking.

Each dish came out leisurely, so we could take our time and savoured each dish. I ordered a non-alcoholic drink, the Rose Lemonade ($7), because the first glass of wine was enough for me in the heat. Our server noticed my lemonade was missing the rose petals, so he returned to the kitchen to remake another one. It’s this level of detail and attention from a server that elevates a great experience into a memorable one.

I was most curious about the Lamb & Eggplant Moussaka ($17). The lamb was rich and saucy, with a touch of sweetness. The mint and beet chips added a complimentary brightness to the mellow, soft flavours of the potato and eggplant. I would have preferred if the eggplant was not as chewy, but that’s my preference.

Our server highly recommended the Sultan’s Delight ($18), a dish he eats on every shift. I barely had to chew because the braised beef was so tender. I loved flaking the layers of beef off and swirling it in the puree. Eating the meat and eggplant puree in one bite was rich, sweet and smoky. The crowning glory was the single basil leaf that left an intense floral taste. We both agreed this was the winning dish of the night.

The chefs behind the food hit the nail with presentation and most importantly, the texture and flavour combinations. L noted all the ingredient went exceptionally well together. Paired with excellent service and serene back drop, this restaurant is a winner in my books. I can see why this restaurant is booked well in advance. L announced this was the best meal we had in Boston. Hitting the Sauce gives Oleana two fat thumbs up.

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