Tokyo

Iroriya Higashiginzaten

I spent months looking for new places to eat in Tokyo, but my prerequisite was no lineups, eliminating many good restaurants. While waiting for great food can be worth it, I wanted to avoid all the super-hyped spots that TikTok made inaccessible. Tokyo is so busy and crowded that the last thing I wanted to do was stand outside a restaurant for hours. Let’s listen to “Who Hoo” for this post.

I picked Iroriya Higashiginzaten because I could make an online reservation. What appealed to me were the reviews about their famous ikura bowl. If you order it, the staff comes out with taiko drums and chant as they heap scoop after scoop of shiny roe until it overflows into your bowl. I also liked that the restaurant was located in central Tokyo. Many of the restaurants I wanted to try were out of the way, which meant Chew Steel would have to navigate through a couple of stations to get us there.

Iroriya is located in the basement, off the side streets of Ginza. I read that seafood is caught in the morning and brought in daily, and the vegetables are from a local farm. Their specialty dish, funajo meshi (salmon roe), comes from Hokkaido.

Iroriya charges a seating fee, which comes with the most delicious bowl of beef stew. The clear broth tasted like gravy, and the homey blend of tender beef and onions was so good that I wanted to order another bowl.

We ordered grilled shiitake mushrooms (280 ¥), salmon roe don (37000 ¥), chicken karrage (900 ¥) and seafood salad (900 ¥).

The shiitake was grilled and served with a soy sauce broth. Our server warned us not to eat the stem. Meaty and soft, the mushroom could have been cooked longer, as it wasn’t piping hot. After our server took away our dish and commented on the leftover broth, I realized we should drink the sauce.

The chicken karrage was super crunchy and juicy. The meat had some pull as I bit into the hot morsel. Chew Steel loved the karrage, and while I liked the crunchiness, I preferred Sukiyaki House’s more seasoned meat. However, I would order the chicken again. It was delicious, just less refined than Sukiyaki House’s version.

When our salmon roe came out of the kitchen, the staff turned up the music and dimmed the lights. Two staff came out, one pounding on his drum and the other shouting, “Yoisho! Yoisho! Yoisho!” The female tourist beside me said she wanted to order the salmon roe as well, but it would be too much to eat.

She’s right; the salmon, though so fresh and glistening like orange jewels, was rich and salty. Despite trying it in various ways, on its own, with broth, or mixed with rice, seaweed, wasabi and a dash of soy, we couldn’t finish our bowl. I’m glad we tried it, but if we come again, I will skip it unless I share it with a group.

The seafood salad was my favourite dish of the night. The dressing was tangy and peppery. There was a ton of assorted seafood, like salmon, tuna, and ebi, all tossed with buttery avocado pieces. The tomatoes, onions and lettuce were spanking fresh. I would order the salad again. Next time Chew Steel and I are in Tokyo, I’d return and try some of the fresh seafood.

My neighbour asked the head guy in the kitchen if he spoke English. I wasn’t paying attention to their banter until he bought out a round of beers. She had bought everyone working in the kitchen a drink and shouted that they were awesome. One thing I admire about Americans is they know how to party. Yoisho! Yoisho! Yoisho!

Tokyo

Yakitori Sanki – Bib Gourmand

One of my best-ever dining experiences was at Yakitori Sanka in Tokyo. I found this tiny spot when looking through the Michelin guide. The owner uses specialty local chickens and dusts each piece with sun-dried salt from the eastern Kochi Prefecture over Tosa binchotan charcoal. Not only was this the best yakitori and sake I consumed, but the service from the entire staff was bar none. For this post, let’s listen to “That Certain Female”.

I booked online via Table Check as soon as reservations opened, a month before our visit. I pre-ordered the eight-course yakitori course (6270 ¥), which included four appetizers and several chicken and vegetable skewers. The cost of the food and wine was more than reasonable for the quality and deliciousness we experienced.

The restaurant is hidden upstairs on the second floor. The room is clean and modern, showcasing a large charcoal grill that smoked and flared throughout the night. All the seats surround the open kitchen so that everyone can view the action.

I started with a sparkling wine. I read the owner is a sommelier. We noticed the chef would try all the wines before they were served to guests to test their quality. The wine itself was nice and mellow, with fruit-forward notes. I knew right away I had to try some of the other wines and sake because I felt I would appreciate the line-up.

Our set of appetizers included the most delicious warm custard. The nugget of braised beef and tomatoes exploded with rich flavour on our tongue. Chew Steel noted the salt texture in our green salad and commented that everything was perfectly seasoned.

The first skewer was the chicken shoulder, speckled with wasabi. The meat was soft and plump, with a clean flavour. L and I tried a fruity sake, which smelled like melons and was so smooth that I couldn’t even taste the alcohol. What I loved about this sake was that it was easy to drink and went well with the food.

The next chicken skewer was magnificent. The skin was thick and crunchy, and the meat was salty and juicy. I chewed as slowly as possible to enjoy the flavour. I noticed the chef intently dusting each skewer with salt and watching the smoke from the charcoal. Once every while, he would poke or add more charcoal to the grill.

One of my favourite pieces was the chicken gizzard. I loved the crunch, as the interesting texture reminded me of a cross between celery and cabbage. Each bite filled your mouth with the most delicious charcoal fragrance.

One of Chew Steel’s favourite bites were the chicken and green onion and grilled cabbage, which we could watch cooking for a lengthy time on the grill, more than twice that of the chicken. The cabbage was crunchy, with an explosion of refreshing, onion-like bite.

We then supped on super hot fried tofu. The room holds about 14 seats, and by 7:00 p.m., each spot was filled. Though Yakitori Sanka is tourist-friendly, it was frequented by native-speaking Japanese customers on Saturday.

The mushroom was so delicious it tasted like beef but ever so tender. I could feel my eyes rolling into the back of my head as I sucked the juices from the morsel. Chew Steel said this place would ruin us because other yakitori places couldn’t compare with it. He’s correct.

For our second sake, I wanted to try the drier one. I appreciated how the staff communicated all the details of the food and sake, using adjectives to describe each item. They were attentive all evening and it was clear that wanted us to have a positive experience and not miss any particular detail.

The meatball was unique—clear white juices from chicken. There was something very Canadian about the simplicity of flavour. The chicken was fluffy and clean.

We were given a soul-satisfying chicken broth at the end of our courses. The soup was nourishing and comforted my stomach, a nice touch to end the night. After we finished our soup, we were handed a cup of tea to sip on.

Yakitori Sanki is a special spot we plan to revisit in Tokyo. You can tell by watching the owner cook and the professionalism of the staff that they exemplify excellence in both craft and service. This restaurant ranks as one of the best that I’ve ever experienced. Hitting the Sauce gives Yakitori Sanki two phat thumbs up!